Autumn in the Villages of Italy

Day Three: October 24. Off to Murano with a tried-and-true RS-approved guide.

Another beautiful, sunny day in Venice:

On my first trip to Venice, my husband and I hired Igor to take us on an off-the-beaten-path tour of the city. So, I looked him up again and arranged for a trip to Murano, which we hadn't visited during our first time in Venice. He took me to a small artist studio where I made my own necklace, toured a glass-blowing factory, and watched the masters at work. We walked around Murano and just had a lovely morning. He picked me up outside my hotel by private boat and then took me back again to my hotel. The weather was fabulous, and spending time with Igor again was a wonderful way to see Murano.

After my morning adventure in Murano, I wandered over to the Cannaregio neighborhood and happened upon a small cafe' where I ordered an Aperol Spritz, lasagna bolognese, and a mixed salad. It was a quiet little area along a canal with the sights of everyday Venetian life on full display. I was one of a few tourists venturing around the area, and it was just the perfect setting for a lovely, delicious meal. The owner of the cafe' was a delightful man, and he made sure that I was enjoying my meal and invited me to come back again.

After lunch, I wandered over to Piazza San Marco and into Caffè Florian for a glass of sparkling rosé and a Tiramisu ice cream dessert. The music was playing outside, and as I watched from the window, I soaked up the ambiance and lingered over my tray of goodies. People came and went, Instagrammers posed at a table across from me, as the waiters dutifully made sure that everyone was happy and content.

I got a bit lost walking back to my hotel, but I knew if I walked toward the Grand Canal, I would eventually find my way. Of course, I found the Grand Canal, but in Venice style it was a dead-end. Luckily for me there was a Vaporetto stop, and lo and behold, it was the route back to the Train Station, and from there I knew how to walk to my hotel. It was a quick ride and being able to tap my credit card at the kiosk, made it very easy.

Back to my hotel and happy with my day well spent.

Stay tuned for more...I'll get back to my trip report later today...

Looking forward to more!

Day Four: October 25. Off to see some art and wander around Venice.

Another beautiful autumn day.

Today I walked to the Frari Church and Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Amazing artwork by Titian and Tintoretto. Well worth the visit if you find yourself in Venice.

I thought I should go to see the Libreria Acqua Alta just because, so I put the address in my GPS on my phone, and away I went. It's an interesting place, worth a visit just to see lots of fun books. It wasn't too busy, so it was a nice stop.

Then back to my hotel neighborhood for a late lunch and limoncello spritz. After I finished lunch, I wandered to the Ex Teatro Italia, a place I had on my list, and thought it would be a nice walk. It's an old theater and still has frescoes on the ceilings and walls. It's been turned into a grocery store, so I bought a dessert and some Aperol spritz to take back to the hotel.

Along the way, I did a little shopping and just felt very content with my 2nd visit to Venice. Dessert was eaten on the veranda at the hotel in front of the Grand Canal, just watching the boats, gondoliers, and people go by.

The sun set on another wonderful day in Venice, and it was time to pack to begin my next adventure in the morning.

Day Five: October 26. Off to Padua

Today just happened to be the day the clocks went back an hour in Italy, so lucky me got an extra hour of sleep and extra time to get packed and checked out of the hotel.

The St. Lucia train station was a short 5-minute walk from Hotel Principe in Venice. I purchased my ticket in the train station office using a kiosk; the cost was less than 5 euros and very easy to purchase using the ticket machine. I located my train platform on the reader board in the station, validated my ticket (very important to do this with a paper ticket), and boarded my train all within about a 20-minute window of arriving at the station. It was a short, scenic ride to Padua, and the train was not too crowded. I recommend this as a way to travel from Venice to Padua for anyone choosing to stay in Venice pre-tour.

I decided to stay one night pre-tour in Padua. I had contacted the hotel before leaving home to arrange a room one pre-night and to be sure I wouldn't need to change rooms for the following two-night tour stay. The hotel was very accommodating, and after the quick train ride from Venice to Padua I was able to check in early and begin my day exploring Padua. The taxi ride from the train station in Padua to the hotel was 13 euros, the tram wasn't running into the old town during my stay, so I opted to take a taxi.

Hotel Majestic Toscanelli was our first tour hotel and very lovely, my room was spacious with a comfy bed, it had a kettle, little fridge, and a nice bathroom with a tub. The hotel was located in the old town near the University and the main market square. I decided to walk around town after check-in, and I found a restaurant serving delicious food, cafeteria style and a good value. I think I was the only tourist in the restaurant. I didn't write the name of the restaurant down, but it was quite the experience. Once I got past the awkward feeling of dining alone, I got in line with the locals and followed their queue. I grabbed a tray, selected the food that looked good, moved along to the cash register, selected a "fine" mini bottle of white wine, paid for my food and followed the young man who whisked my tray of food off to a table in the heart of the cafe. It was fun watching the families on a Sunday afternoon, enjoying their meals and living life. The same server brought over an older Italian man to sit with me at the table, he spoke no English and me very little Italian, so we just dined in silence with a slight smile and knowing nod every now and then.

After lunch, I happened upon an art show that included numerous masterpieces, including five paintings by Pablo Picasso and six by Amedeo Modigliani at Palazzo Zabarella. It was a nice way to spend my pre-tour day.

Back to the hotel to get a good night's sleep and prepare to meet up with the group the next day at 5 p.m.

Day Six: October 27. First day of tour, meeting up at 5 p.m.

I had the whole day to explore and wander before meeting up with the group.

I opted to explore the Jewish quarter of town; the old town is where the hotel is located, so I was already in the heart of it. I found the synagogue and Jewish museum, but it wasn't yet opened, so I just wandered around town, into the market square and the courtyard of the University.

Since I was up early and found the laundro-mat located about a block behind the hotel, I decided it was a good time to wash my dirty laundry and have a fresh start. The cost of a wash load was 8 euros, and the dryer for 10 minutes was 3 euros, the machines only take cash, so if you decide to wash clothes, be sure to have exact change and some laundry soap on hand. I brought laundry soap sheets from home, and they proved to be a good thing to pack more than once.

After finishing up my chore of washing clothes, I set out to find a grocery store for some snacks and water. Brought my groceries back to the hotel and then set out for St. Anthony's Basilica, since it is not a stop on tour, I decided this was a good time to go. Wow, what a beautiful place, it always amazes me how these stunning buildings were erected over 800 years ago. It's worth a visit and it's a short walk from the hotel.

On my way back to the hotel I wandered down Via Galileo Galilei and once back to the hotel I had a nice lunch in my room and a brief nap.

It's finally 5 p.m. and the first meeting of the tour group has arrived. We all met in the bar area of the hotel and got aquainted with our tour guide and each other, we selected our "buddies" and then set out for a walk around town, followed by a group dinner at Caffe V, delicious food, good wine, and lots of getting to know each other conversations. Our tour guide, Andrea Vincenti is a super down-to-earth guy and very easy-going. It's been good meeting everyone and finally getting the tour underway.

A quick walk back to the hotel, set my alarm for 6:15 am, and was excited about an 8:40 am start in the morning.

Day Seven: October 28. First full day on tour.

We walked to the Scrovegni Chapel, which was simply amazing. Giotto Frescoes, preserved in time, make the chapel a must-see in Padua; however, be sure to get your tickets in advance. Side note: Tickets were provided for us as part of the RS Tour, so no need to purchase them if you are going on this tour. Once you arrive at the chapel, a video is played to introduce you to the art you are about to see. Then, a door that protects the chapel from humidity opens, and the group is escorted into a holding room and it is sealed. Once inside, the doors to the chapel were opened, and we were allowed 15 minutes to view the magnificent works. Our local guide for the day took time to explain the sequence of work and point out a few interesting features.

Next, we walked to the University and were led into the great room, where Galileo, among others, taught students in the great hall. We were also allowed a visit into the Anatomy Theater room for a close-up view. These were both amazing stops on our walking tour of Padua.

After an afternoon spritz and snack with the group, we had free time and dinner on our own tonight. I walked to the botanical gardens with another tour member, then back to find a grocery store for a light meal to take back to the hotel.

Another wonderful day, full of sunshine and new experiences.

Thank you for this report - please continue to post! My husband and I did this tour in May/June and loved it. How fun to experience it again through someone else's eyes. We were blessed with perfect weather and super fun fellow travelers. Sounds like RS may have switched out the sketchy hotel we had in Padua. I know there were some complaints about it so hopefully that means RS takes comments and reviews seriously. Can't wait to keep reading!

Day Eight: October 29. Off to Ravenna and Montefalco

We had an early start to the day, after a wonderful breakfast at the hotel, we met up in the lobby at 8:15 am, suitcases in tow, and proceeded to walk to the bus. It was a short walk, but dragging your suitcases over cobblestones is real. We walked from the hotel, through the old town, to where the bus was parked in front of the Basilica of St. Anthony, about a 10-minute walk.

Stowed our luggage, boarded the bus, and off we went to our next destination of Ravenna.

We met our local tour guide in Ravenna, and she took us into the Galla Placidia mausoleum and Church of San Vitale to view the incredible mosaics. We each received a paper ticket and could use that to go into the other 8 UNESCO World Heritage sites, if we chose to during our free time. After our tour, the local guide walked us to the main square, Piazza del Popolo, and gave us a brief history of the area and some suggestions for places to eat or visit during our free time.

I opted to go into the local market, Mercato Coperto Ravenna, and ordered fresh Tagliatelle with meat sauce and a glass of red wine. I dined like a local, surrounded by the daily life passing before me.

After lunch, I wandered around the town until it was time to meet up for our journey to Montefalco. It was about a 3 1/2 hour bus ride, but the time passed quickly as our guide narrated Italian history and the beautiful countryside appeared before us.

Upon arrival in Montefalco, we unloaded and made our way up a short gravel path, luggage in tow, to our home for the next 2 nights. Villa Pambuffetti is a charming old villa and very comfortable. Inside, we were given our room keys, settled in briefly, and then were treated to a happy hour which included local prosecco and fresh olive oil bruschetta.

After happy hour, we made our way to the hilltown of Montefalco, just a very short walk from the entrance of the villa. Our guide, Andrea, gave us a brief history and walking tour of the town. It was very quiet, but most shops and restaurants were open. Once we arrived at the main square, we were free to have dinner on our own. This was a really fun night, since 13 of us followed our guide to the restaurant of his choice and he arranged for us to have a set menu dinner, made with in-season food and a wine pairing presented by a local sommelier. It was 60 euros each, but well worth the price. This was one of those unplanned, unexpected special moments that make a trip exceptional. We all then piled into the wine cave to view the selection of wines and olive oil, since it was olive oil season, so some tour members were able to purchase fresh olive oil and have it shipped home.

Once back to the villa, our host had made a fire in the living room area of the house, and several of us sat around and visited. I had a cup of chamomile tea to end my night, then off to bed.

Another day well spent, the weather is still amazing, a little chilly, but no rain.

I'll have more soon...the trip was 20 days long in total, so bear with me while I recount each day and post as I have time.

So glad you plan to continue--I'm enjoying this report very much!

Thanks so much for the details! We will be going on this trip in the spring. Do you know the name of the restaurant that your guide took you to in Montefalco?

Day Nine: October 30. Off to Assisi for a day trip and Truffle "Hunting" tonight.

After a hearty breakfast at the villa, I decided to go out for a little walk before we boarded the bus. I walked through the lovely park gardens of the villa to a side road that led me to a little country road where the Umbrian countryside appeared before me in all of it's early morning glory. The autumn colors, soft fog hanging in the valley, olive trees ripe for harvesting, and the promise of another beautiful morning lay before me. This is why I chose this trip, of all the tours I could have joined, this view alone and the feeling of living in a world that holds such beauty overwhelmed me for a moment; a tear rolled down my cheek as I breathed in the fresh air of the Umbrian morning with her full beauty on display.

At 9:30 am we all meet at the bus, ready for a day in Assisi. After a short walk uphill from where the bus parked, we met our guide in front of the Basilica of St. Francis. This is a very special place dedicated to St. Francis. We spent about an hour and a half touring the church, learning about more Giotto frescoes, walking down the stairs to view St. Francis' tomb, and upstairs to see the area where the Pope sits when he visits Assisi.

We had free time in Assisi after our tour, so I opted to get some lunch in a little restaurant I found while walking with another couple from the tour. It was a nice, relaxing way to spend time in Assisi, getting to know this couple and having a hearty meal of gnocchi and a mixed green salad, accompanied by a glass of delicious rosé wine.

After lunch, I didn't have much time to explore. My new friends set off for some shopping, and I wandered around a bit before heading down to the Church of Chiara, where we all met up to walk back to the bus. Assisi is a place that I would have enjoyed having more time to explore on my own, but the time came to head back for some downtime at the villa before tonight's events began.

Some tour members opted to walk up to Montefalco to explore the town more, but I opted to just rest at the villa and recharge.

After a leisurely afternoon, it was time for a truffle hunting and group dinner experience. It had rained lightly in the afternoon, so in place of tromping around in the mud, we opted to watch a video in the farmhouse chapel, where we met the star truffle-hunting dogs and Bruno, their handler. It was an interesting introduction to the world of truffle hunting in Italy.

Off up a short walk to the farmhouse restaurant, Tenuta San Pietro, for a fabulous group dinner, starring what else but truffles! Another amazing meal, outstanding local wine, and good conversation. The restaurant had truffle goodies for sale, so I opted to purchase some truffle salt and a small jar of pickled truffles. Note to self for next trip: bring an extra duffel bag for all the goodies I purchased on this trip!

We returned to the villa at about 9 pm. We are off to our next destination in the morning...time to pack up and be ready to go by 8:30 am.

For those of you curious about the truffle-hunting and farm dinner experience, here is the address: Tenuta San Pietro a Pettine, LOC. SAN PIETRO A PETTINE, 06039 Trevi PG, Italy

Day Ten: October 31. Off to Orvieto, via Deruta and a special hill town visit arranged by our guide.

Up and on the bus at 8:30 am, our tour guide was great at keeping us on schedule.
It was a quick drive to Deruta, where we piled out of the bus and entered a world of pottery. Our first stop was at Gialletti Giulio Ceramic Factory.

We didn’t work with any actual clay, but we had a demonstration by one of the master potters and a walk through the factory where we saw ladies hand-painting tiles, plates, vases... We were able to browse the shop and purchase any items that caught our eye. I bought a little olive oil bottle and a wine bottle collar, both small items that I could stash into my growing bag of souvenirs I had been collecting since Venice.
We stayed in Deruta for about an hour and then proceeded to our next surprise destination, Civitella del Lago, a charming, preserved-in-time hill town across the valley from Orvieto. We were welcomed by two local residents, and an adorable puppy that waved hello, who walked us through the old Medieval castle and through the town. And then to an un’egg’spected museum; Ovo Pinto.
https://www.umbriatourism.it/en/-/museum-of-the-painted-egg-in-civitella-del-lago

After our museum tour, we walked back to the overlook and town center, where a lovely little restaurant prepared an apertivo and local wine tasting. This ended up being the theme for today: wine tasting and local bites.
As we viewed the incredible countryside, Orvieto shining on its rock in the distance, we enjoyed plentiful cups of wine and freshly prepared appetizers. The weather once again was spectacular, and I think if we had binoculars, we could have seen all the way to Rome. This was our guide's choice of hill towns to show us on tour, and it did not disappoint.
Back on the bus, we headed for our next wine tasting and food pairing at Tenuta Le Velette. Directly across the Umbrian vineyards from Orvieto we were treated to a tour of the Estrucan caves and beautiful villa that made up the grounds of this historical place.
We were treated to an array of food and of course, wine, my favorite being the onion flatbread and local cheeses, paired with a white wine; 2024 BERGANORIO. It’s rich mineral forward flavor appealed to my afternoon taste buds. We also tasted a 2024 Lunato Classico Superiore and a special 2018 Calanco Umbrian Tipica. All amazing wines, there may have been a dessert wine in there too, but by this time I was pretty well into my day drinking haze, and well, la dolce vita Italia!
We walked back through the gardens to the parked bus and, after a quick ‘buddy’ check, making sure we left no one in the wine caves, off we went to Orvieto.

Our next stop and home for 2 nights was the Grand Hotel Italia. It is in the center of the old town, great location, but a bit of a walk from where the bus let us out. Our guide had arranged for our larger bags to be portered to the hotel by van. So, carrying my bag of souvenirs and attaching my backpack securely on my shoulders, I proceeded up the escalators with several other adventurous tour members. The choice was an elevator or the escalators; our group pretty much split 50/50, and then we all met at the top. Our guide walked us through town giving a brief orientation of the layout of the town and then onto our hotel. After check in, we were treated to a concert by our guide Andrea, who plays guitar and is quite accomplished and his lovely friend Martina, with her angelic vocals and warm smile. This was our 3rd apertivo of the day, arranged in a meeting room off the lobby of the hotel, we were treated to another feast, including Aperol Spritz and more snacks.

Day Ten: October 31. Continued.

This day was full of ‘Treats’ and not ‘Tricks’...

It was still fairly early once the concert had concluded, so I set off to walk around town. Our guide had mentioned a ‘brew pub’ that had opened in Orvieto, so after stretching my legs, watching the young children of Orvieto walking door to door at the local shops, donned in Halloween costumes and looking for candy, and walking off some of the days indulgences, I wandered until I found the charming little restaurant and only brew pub in town. I was greeted by a table full of fellow tour mates and had a light meal, a local beer, and fun conversation. Before heading back to the hotel, we all walked together to a gelato shop and indulged our appetites even more. What a wonderful day of feasts and festivities.

This was a packed day, and it was great to finally return to the hotel to rest up for the next day’s agenda.

Susan, I did the first tour of the year in April and I bet you did the last tour of the year, right? I loved the tour, every bit of it. I’ve done 12 and this is one of my favorites. And I loved Orvieto! Thanks for sharing your experiences.

@Lyndash-I would love to hear about the other tours you have taken, please feel free to send me a private message. And yes, I was on the last Villages of Italy tour for 2025.

Day Eleven: November 1. All Saints’ Day and exploring Orvieto.

When we arrived in the Piazza del Duomo, there was a light fog hanging low in the sky, and the facade of the Duomo appeared to be shrouded in a light cloud, while the rising sun was breaking through the sky above. It was a surreal morning, a bit chilly, but with the promise of another sunny, crisp autumn day ahead.

There were special masses today in the Cathedral, so we had a short wait out front before entering the building. Andrea was our local guide for this morning, since he was born and raised in Orvieto. We spent some time outside talking about the incredible facade and stone walls. We were the first group to enter the building, and we had the vast church to ourselves for a few minutes.

We made our way over to the Chapel of San Brizio known for the series of frescoes depicting the Stories of the Last Days, which was started by Fra Angelico in 1447 and completed by Luca Signorelli in 1499-1504. These incredible frescoes are both beautiful and terrifying. After spending time in the chapel, it was time for the 2nd mass of the morning to begin, and the church was closed to tourists once again. I chose to stay for mass and took a seat in the nave with the local residents.

I left the church with a feeling of calm, walking out into the crisp, clear autumn day. I had no plans or agenda, and the rest of the day was free to explore. I found a quiet little cafe along the main street and ordered a pasta with cherry tomato sauce and a glass of local wine. After lunch, I continued down the way to the Giardini Comunali, which is near Piazza Cahen. I walked around the park, then continued along the path encircling the town. Orvieto is a lovely city for walking and enjoying nature. I ran into a couple of tour members during my walk and was invited to join them for dinner at 6:30.

I decided to walk back to the hotel and just relax for a while before dinner; my room had a balcony, so I made myself a cup of tea and soaked in the afternoon sun.

Meeting up with the group in the hotel lobby at 6:30, about a dozen of us set off for a restaurant that a couple of the ladies had scouted out earlier in the day. It was a fun place, off the beaten track with a large menu. This proved to be a test in communication and a “lost in translation” experience. The restaurant used a QR Code for its menu, which we thought we were using correctly, until the waitress appeared with not one, but four beers. Only one was ordered, so we were a little worried about what else was going to come out of the kitchen and bar. I successfully ordered my meal using the restaurant's device, since my phone wouldn’t connect to the app using the QR Code. Others used their own phones to order, switching the app to the English language version, which proved to be problematic when food started showing up that no one ordered. The hilarity ensued as the only person in our group who spoke enough Italian was able to communicate to the waiter what we had all ordered. There was an extra dish in the end and one or two dishes that came out a little later than everyone else's, but after a round of drinks, some beers, and a couple of bottles of wine, all was well, and we were all well fed. It was once again one of those group experiences that make a trip exceptional. The restaurant had an outdoor area with a foosball table, so after dinner, some of us ladies took the opportunity to play a couple of rounds. It was great fun and we all had a good laugh at the entire experience.

We ended the evening by seeking out another gelato shop, not as good as the one the night before, but still delicious.

Orvieto has been a wonderful stop, full of fun, sunshine, and amazing places.

Day Twelve: November 2. Week two begins: Estrucans, Argiturismo, and TUSCANY!

We started the day by meeting with our luggage in front of the hotel at 8:45 am. Our large bags were once again portered down from the rock of Orvieto by van to where the bus was parked. We made our way, me carrying my bag of souvenirs, which had become a love-hate relationship by this point, off to the awaiting elevators, down to the bus.

Our first destination for the day was Chianciano Terme for a tour of the Etruscan Museum. This was a special treat, since our local guide Roberto took us into the restoration workshop and we were able to see how the artifacts, which were all found within a 5 mile radius of the land where the museum is located, are cataloged and mended. This was a fascinating stop, and Roberto was a very entertaining guide. We spent about an hour touring the museum. I purchased a few things from the small gift shop, to add to my ever-growing collection of souvenirs, one being a children’s book on Etruscan life that I knew my 8-year-old granddaughter would love. This museum is a gem and has incredible artifacts. Our group had the place all to ourselves; a few other people came and went as we were there, but no crowds. If you are interested in Etruscan life and find yourself near this town, go see this museum; it’s worth the time.

Next stop for today was Argiturismo La Pietriccia for a group cooking class and lunch. We arrived at about noon, and I knew we had crossed into Tuscany, because the view from the bus driving in was Cortona, sitting high up on the hill within walking distance of the farmhouse. We were promptly met by a very jovial chef, Stefano, and his staff. The table was set, including a welcome plate of appetizers with a local wine pairing. We munched and drank while our chef explained the importance of organic food and small local agricultural growers in the region. Then came the time for our hands-on cooking class, and we were all given time to use the restroom and wash our hands. We were then donned with aprons and chef's hats and assigned an area to work. The day's menu included carrot pie, ricotta gnocchi, rocket pesto, potato and sage cannelloni au gratin with fresh tomato sauce, fresh-made sausages, gratin tomatoes, and a ricotta tart with lemon for dessert. Needless to say, we had a feast! There was fresh organic olive oil on the table, which was also for sale in the farmhouse's little store for anyone who wanted to take some home. This was a really fun experience, although a small part of me wanted to wander up the lane to Cortona; I was satisfied with the amazing food, good company, and view from the farmhouse dining room.

We started for our next destination at about 3:15 pm, satiated, happy, and sleepy. Our bus ride to our Tuscan hotel was enchanting; there really is nothing else in this world that compares to the elegance of the Tuscan countryside. The twisting, winding roads, the vineyards dressed in shades of autumn, the freshly harvested and pruned olive trees, ancient stone farmhouses with their cypress tree-lined drives, and the violet-hued backdrop that seems to appear as a painting in the distance, everywhere you gaze, this is what Tuscany is known for.

Day Twelve: November 2. Continued, we are in TUSCANY!

After about a 2-hour drive, we settled into our lovely converted farmhouse, Hotel Belvedere di San Leonino. As quickly as I could manage, I stashed my luggage in my room so I could get back outside to soak up the view and sweet aroma of our surroundings.

The grounds and atmosphere at the hotel are very soothing, with chaise lounge chairs placed along the garden wall, an undercover sitting area with comfortable outdoor furniture, and some picnic tables dotted about. It was warm and sunny enough to sit outside and relax before dinner. In the warmer months, a swimming pool and spa are available. It was a bit chilly this time of the year for outdoor swimming, but if you take this tour in the summer, be sure to bring along a swimsuit.

It clouded up a little bit this evening, and the temperatures were cooling off, but no rain.

At 7 p.m. we had a light dinner at the hotel restaurant, paired with their own wine, which was the perfect end to another great day.

Day Thirteen: November 3. Off to Siena, more wine, and Tuscan sunsets.

At 9 am this morning, we set off for the beautiful town of Siena. Upon arrival, we were introduced to our local guide for the day, Anna. She is a transplanted Sienese and an amazing guide to have when in Siena. Our first stop was in the San Domenico Church to see the relic of St. Catherine of Siena and briefly learn about the church’s history over the centuries.

Next, we walked through town, up and down some hilly cobblestone streets, into the Lupa (She-Wolf) Contrada. We were welcomed into the contrada church dedicated to San Rocco, decorated with 16th-century frescoes painted by Sienese artists, and contrada flags.

The church houses the Lupa Contrada museum featuring a ceremonial room, an archive and costume room. Down a set of marble stairs, we descended into the church crypt, where we entered the Hall of Victories. Anna’s commentary and experiences living in Siena brought the history of the Palio di Siena to life.

After our time spent in the contrada church, we proceeded to walk up through Piazza del Campo and up the main street, with Anna pointing out places to buy treasures or get a bite to eat, to the cathedral and main square, Piazza del Duomo. We had 2 ½ hours to explore on our own, and Andrea purchased us tickets, if we wanted them, for the cathedral and other museums surrounding the Piazza. I opted for the full ticket, which cost 15 euros.

I briefly took a walk through the spectacular cathedral, but since the sky was clear blue and the weather was warm, my main goal was to climb The Facciatone, a towering unfinished facade, to see the view from atop the wall. Since it was off-season, the line was not long, so I waited for my turn to climb the 505 steps to the top. Well worth the effort, especially on a clear, crisp autumn day.

After my adventurous climb and brief tour of the museum gallery, I ventured off to a little antique jewelry shop that Anna had pointed out while walking through the streets up to the cathedral. Inside, I was met by a sweet older Italian man, who spoke no English, but we managed to communicate using Google Translate, as I negotiated the purchase of a lovely pendant I saw in the window display. Yet another small souvenir to add to my bag of treasures.

As I made my way back down to Piazza del Campo, I spied a gelato shop, so that’s what I decided to have for lunch, I happily ate my lunch while sitting in the warm Tuscan sunshine, watching the tourists and vendors go about their day. There was one kiosk that had all of the Contrada’s logos displayed on scarves, so why not add to my memories by purchasing a “She Wolf” scarf, which I promptly tied around my shoulders and then found my way back to the group waiting by the starting point of San Domenico Church. I showed the group my “She Wolf” scarf which it turned out would later be a fun trick on another guide who lives in a competing contrada, Andrea asked me if I would wear the scarf the next day…

At 2:30 pm, we were off to the bus and headed back to the hotel for an afternoon of rest and an optional wine tasting at 4 p.m., arranged by Andrea. I opted for the wine tasting, as did most of the group, it was wine produced by the family that owns the hotel, and it was exceptional.

There was some time after wine tasting and before dinner when the Tuscan sky turned into an orange and violet display of pure beauty, the dark shadows of the surrounding trees and stone mansions became the backdrop of an amazing sunset over the vineyards and olive groves in the neighboring field across from the hotel. I walked across the road, into the field to take a few photographs and watch in awe as the sun set to end another heavenly day.

Dinner again tonight was served in the hotel restaurant, just for our group at 7 p.m.

Side note: There is no lack of delicious food and wine on this tour, so prepare your appetites and your waistbands accordingly.

Day Fourteen: November 4. A surprise ahead, olive oil farm lunch, San Gimignano, and Volterra!

The time had come for us to depart the lovely farmhouse in Tuscany, venturing with our bags across the road and piling into the bus at 9 am, we were told we had a surprise stop this morning. As we drove along the highway, it became clear where we were headed: The Florence American War Memorial. This was a really nice stop, and it was warming to see how incredibly well-maintained the grounds were kept, and also the care that the Italian people put into remembering and honoring our fallen men and women of World War II.

After some time spent touring the grounds, we headed for our next destination of the day; an olive oil farm, Madonna Bella. We arrived about noon and were once again greeted by Roberto, our tour guide from the Etruscan Museum and long-time friend of Rick Steves. This was my day to play a little joke, Andrea asked me if I would wear the “She Wolf” scarf and walk up to Roberto and say hello. We had learned from Anna in Siena that she and Roberto have quite the rivalry, with her being a “She Wolf” and he a “Porcupine”, arch rivals in the Palio di Siena. Roberto took it all in stride, with his great sense of humor, and we all had a good laugh. I was happy to be able to provide some entertainment for the group.

After our introduction, Roberto walked us around his beautiful property, explaining the olive oil process and showing us a short video. The surrounding area is picture perfect, and we sat outside under a marquee, a beautiful sunny autumn day beaming around us, and had a delicious lunch, with fresh olive oil, paired with the family wines.

We departed at about 3 p.m., and were on our way to San Gimignano. We arrived at about 4 p.m., and after a brief orientation of the town, we had some time to explore on our own. I walked about town, bought a few small gift items to take home, and then wandered up to a park where there was an outstanding view of the famous towers and countryside below. This is a nice stop and one of the most beautiful hill towns in Tuscany.

Onto Volterra for our next 2-night stay, usually this tour stays in Lucca, but due to a convention during October, we were switched to Volterra. I was happy to be staying in a town which I had not yet been to during my other travels in Italy. Volterra has a rich history, from the Etruscan, through to the Romans, and then into the Medici era. We arrived at about 6:15 p.m. and promptly unloaded, luggage in tow, and made our way down a cobblestone road to our hotel, Hotel La Locanda. We were welcomed by the staff with a glass of prosecco and some light snacks. This hotel had a laundry service, so I made sure to get a bag to the reception before turning in for the evening. It had been another very active day, and I was happy to just get a glass of wine and some food to my room and settle in for the night.

Susan, I’m really enjoying your trip report of the Villages of Italy. You have great illustrative descriptions of the countryside and sunsets in the Tuscan hills.

I also went to Tenuta Le Velette on my first RS tour (Best of Italy, 2006) and still dream about that wine pairing - the food, the wine, so delicious. I've had the Villages tour on my list but your descriptions are definitely making it move up the queue!

Enjoying your report, looking forward to the rest :)

Day Fifteen: November 5. Volterra, Etruscans, Romans, Alabaster Carving, and you guessed it, WINE TASTING!

We began the day by meeting our local tour guide, Annie, in front of the hotel at 9 a.m. She walked us up the main road in the quaint hill town to the Palazzo dei Priori, and after an introduction to the town, we had about a 45-minute break to get coffee, shop, or wander. We met back up in the Palazzo and then walked down to the Estrucan gate, Porta all’Arco, still standing after a scare during World War II. She narrated a local “hero” story about the townspeople who banded together to save the ancient gate. The weather again promised a clear, sunny day, as we viewed out over the walls of the city and to the mountains and sea beyond. We continued to walk back up into town to an overlook of the ancient acropolis ruins, the Roman baths, and theatre sat just below us on full display.

We walked back into the town as Annie pointed out a few places of interest; Opera House, Alabaster Workshop museum and art gallery, Pinacoteca e Museo Civico di Volterra. We made our way back to the Estrucan Museum and each received a ‘Museum Card’ that could be used to go into any of the sites we had seen. As a group, we toured the Etruscan museum as Annie told us about the ancient civilization and what is known of their way of life. We had time on our own to stay in the museum and tour the other 3 floors of artifacts.

Once I finished touring the Etruscan museum, I set my sights on the Pinacoteca e Museo Civico di Volterra, since I was determined to find the painting by Rosso Fiorentino; Descent from the Cross. This painting has haunted me since I met my husband, for whatever reason, he has a framed poster of a section of this painting, which now hangs in our home. I only knew it was in Volterra, because the poster has a title printed at the bottom of the left corner, but the poster only shows the bottom left corner of the painting, where Mary Magdalene is grasping onto The Virgin Mary’s robe. This painting, as well as other masters, are on display in this unassuming little museum. I had the entire room to myself, where I sat on a bench directly facing this masterpiece and breathed in its beauty while discovering more about its history and recent restoration. I took time to walk through the museum, once I had finished soaking in the masterpiece I had come to find.

The alabaster museum is connected to the art gallery, so I wandered through the cloister over to the museum. Once again, I was the only person in the museum. It’s an interesting collection explaining the history of alabaster mining and carving, with many incredible works of art and artifacts on display. At this point, I was feeling a bit museum-fatigued, so I walked along the side alley up past the Opera House, which unfortunately was closed, and back to the main street. I found a little bar, where I sat down with locals for a light lunch and beer. After lunch, I window shopped my way back to the hotel. Took a couple of hours to recharge in my room, a short nap, and then back out at about 5 p.m. There was a small jewelry shop now open across from our hotel, so yes, I took the opportunity to go inside and purchase myself a one-of-a-kind, Etruscan-inspired necklace. Much like my experience in Siena, the well-dressed older gentleman in the store spoke no English, but we managed to communicate, and I now own a beautiful, one-of-a-kind piece of jewelry made by Volterran artists. I wore this necklace on most days during the rest of the trip, and it has become one of my favorite all-time keepsakes from my travels.

Day Fifteen: November 5. Volterra (continued)...

Our wine tasting was scheduled for 6 p.m., which gave me time to walk the “long” way to the location where we were meeting. I found a side alley that led me up along the walls of the Medici Fortress, which is now a State Prison and not accessible for touring. As I walked along the dimly lit ancient road, I spied the full moon off in the distance rising above the town. I walked a little past the entrance into town to a park and viewpoint before heading back to join the group in front of the unassuming wine “cave” ‘La Vena di Vino’ and our sommelier Francesco, who happened to be Annie’s husband.

Francesco spent about an hour with us, food pairing and wine tasting local wines. It was an experience in the art of sensory analysis. There may be ‘bad’ wine in Italy, but so far on this tour I haven’t tasted any…

Across the little alley from the wine cave was a local bar that distilled gin. So we all piled inside for a shot of gin and fun banter before heading off on our own to look for someplace to eat dinner. I ended up dining with 2 couples whom I hadn’t yet gotten to know very well, and they welcomed me to join them at a place they had found earlier in the day. I chose seafood and a glass of local white wine for my meal, and it did not disappoint; swordfish, grilled squid, and a giant prawn were placed before me, along with a mixed salad, because you know, a balanced diet…I devoured my meal and then waddled my way back to the hotel to end yet another perfect day.

Volterra: I just realized I left out the visit to the alabaster workshop, after the Etruscan Museum, we watched a master carver make a bowl and were able to purchase items from the workshop or their shop just up the alley. And yes, I bought two little kitty cats to take home to my newborn granddaughter and her mommy. It was a lovely stop in Volterra, a village with a huge amount of history and many activities to enjoy!

Day Sixteen: November 6. Carrara Marble, Cinque Terre, and a Ligurian Feast!

Today, we left the beautiful hill town of Volterra and traveled toward the coast. At 8:30 a.m., we all met up after breakfast in the hotel lobby, dragged our bags up the cobblestone street to our awaiting bus, and piled in for a 3-hour drive to our next destination. Everyone on this tour has been so prompt, which makes it a much more enjoyable experience. Andrea, our tour guide, has been great at keeping our schedule flowing and informing us of what is expected. He has also helped recommend restaurants and activities for our free time.

Today’s first stop was in Carrara, a marble mining town with a rich history. We traded buses in the parking area once we arrived in town; a smaller bus was needed for the drive up the twisting, curving roads to the Carrara Marble Museum. Along the way, our local guide for the day provided commentary on the surrounding area and its significance to the Romans and Renaissance artists, as well as modern-day mining operations.

Once we arrived at the top, we could see mining operations high above where the museum is located, and watch the dance of the trucks, which are required for removing the rubble and blocks of marble. The museum recounts the history of the area, from the days of the Romans to current-day operations. There is a working marble factory that can be viewed from the museum, and it was interesting to watch how they load and prepare the marble. It was another clear blue autumn day, quite warm today too, and we could see the entire town of Carrara outstretched to the sea.

After our museum visit, there was a small gift shop/marble artist shop where we could purchase souvenirs. Yes, I bought a lovely mortar and pestle set to take home for my kitchen and a couple of bracelets to take home to my daughters. The prices in the shop were very reasonable and there was a good collection of items.

After we loaded back into the bus, we drove down the hill to rejoin our driver and head to an “autogrill” along the highway for lunch. Lunch was on us today, and the autogrills have a large selection of food, snacks, and drinks. It was a quick stop, and after a satisfying lunch of the grilled meat special, I was excited to be on our way to Levanto, our last 2-night stay of the tour.

As we drove along the highway to Levanto, Andrea pointed out the town of Pisa in the distance, where we had a glimpse of the Leaning Tower. It was an easy drive to Levanto, with beautiful scenery along the way. The drive from Carrara, stopping for lunch and arriving in Levanto, took about 2 hours.

Once we arrived in Levanto, the bus parked in the train station lot, and we all piled out, loaded our luggage into a truck to be portered to our hotel, walked into the train station where Andrea gave us a “lesson” in taking the train to the towns of the Cinque Terre. Levanto is a quick 6-minute train ride to Monterosso. Andrea went into the train station's office and purchased the “Cinque Terre Card” for all of us for the next day's adventures. This card allowed us to take the train to all 5 towns, walk the paths, and return by train to Levanto.

If you go to this area on your own, this is a great ticket to have: https://www.cinqueterre.eu.com/en/cinque-terre-card

The other options were a hike from Levanto to Monterosso, which was a free path up over, along the coast, and down into Monterosso.

There is also a pedestrian/bike path that takes you through old train tunnels north to the town of Bonassola: https://www.walkingeurope.info/walk-description-6099

One note: Since our tour date was in November, by the time we reached Levanto, the boats had stopped running for the season, so the boat ride listed on the tour itinerary was not a part of our tour. Even though I believe you could still find a ferry running, the Cinque Terre Card was a much better choice for spending time in this area.

Day Sixteen: November 6. Carrara Marble, Cinque Terre, and a Ligurian Feast! (Continued):

After our train lesson and receiving our tickets, we made our way to our hotel for the next 2 nights. We were able to leave anything we didn’t need in the bus cargo area, stashing my ever-growing bag of souvenirs, which made our walk into town effortless. I followed our guide and other tour members along the sidewalks and small streets for a quick walk to Hotel Albergo Primavera.

Once checked in, I walked down to the seafront promenade to watch the sunset and walk about town. I found a grocery store, stocked up on some water and juice for my room, then went back to the hotel for a little rest before dinner. It was another beautiful day, with a few clouds, but no rain upon arrival in Levanto. I got lucky again and had a balcony in my room, so I sat outside and soaked in the fresh sea air and relaxed

Dinner was served in the hotel dining area, we had been promised a Ligurian Feast and a Ligurian Feast we got! Upon arrival to the dining room, the tables were set, wine flowing and a full buffet was set in front of us. This meal was prepared by a local cook/chef who, along with several of the hotel staff, served us this incredible meal.

I can not list every item we had, but it began with a delicious fish stew, fresh pasta with pesto sauce, mushroom risotto, a huge bowl of fresh mussels, bread, roast beef, rabbit and a variety of vegetables, including a wonderful spiced broccoli. Dessert was served, and honestly, I can’t remember what it was, I kind of remember a lemon cheesecake(?), but I do remember the limoncello, served ice cold in a beautiful little stemmed glass!

I wanted to get an early start to the morning, so after a toast of limoncello, I said goodnight to my fellow tour mates and went off to bed to prepare for my next day’s adventure.

Day Seventeen: November 7. A day off from our vacation.

Today we had the luxury of doing nothing or everything. I opted for an in-between activity of hiking the path from Levanto to Monterosso. The couple I had lunch with in Assisi decided to join me, so after breakfast we set off for our adventure.

The weather was a bit foggy and crisp, but as the hike progressed up through the “backyards” of Italian-esque mansions lining the sea and farmhouses with terraced land, the sun broke and warmed us as we continued to climb. We navigated over some granite rocks, past one muddy area and then the trail flattened as we walked through a forest of olive and pine trees. The entire elevation gain, according to All Trails, is 1,253 ft and trail length of 4.8 miles. This trail is considered moderate, although if you are not comfortable with heights or have mobility or knee issues it’s not a good trail for you. I am an avid hiker and the couple that joined me were very fit and ready for adventure.

We took our time, meandering, snapping photographs and gingerly walking up the path. There were only a handful of other hikers on this trail, so it’s a nice peaceful trail to hike away from the crowds. We happened upon a little house that offered refreshments, Podere Lovara, but since we had gotten an early start, the house wasn’t yet open. We kept moving and finally after about 2 1/2 hours (+/-), stopped at the top of the hill which led down to the San Antonio al Mesco viewpoint. After a short break for a snack and some water, we decided to proceed down the rocky path and were rewarded with a view of the entire coastline and all 5 towns that make up the Cinque Terre. This view made the entire effort worthwhile, we had beautiful clear blue skies and warm sunshine. My travel partners and company for the hike told me it was the highlight of their trip. I love being in nature and outdoors and this was spectacular. After snapping more photographs and gazing out over the panoramic view, we continued down the trail to the steps which led into Monterosso. I didn’t count the steps leading down, but it was very steep, although well maintained, I was happy that we had begun our hike in Levanto and not the other way around. The hike took us 3 ½ hours to complete and we walked just over 5 miles total, by the time we reached the train station in Monterosso.

**Note: I would not attempt this hike in the hot summer temperatures or if it had recently rained. Get an early start, wear sturdy shoes, bring plenty of water and a good snack.

Entering Monterosso in the modern new town (Fegina), we continued out to the sea, past the train station, through a tunnel and into the old part of town. We settled on a little trattoria for lunch, had some pasta, a glass of wine, celebrated our great day of hiking and then parted ways. At this point I was ready to head back to the hotel, so I walked back to the train station and used my “Cinque Terre Card” to board the train back to Levanto.

My fellow tour mates opted to take the train to Vernazza to explore more of the CInque Terre, but since I had been here in 2018 with my husband and we explored all 5 towns and hiked other trails, I felt satisfied with the amazing hike we had just accomplished.

Upon arriving back at the hotel, I got a glass of red wine from the hotel bar, went up to my room, and sat out on the balcony gazing out toward the sea. I took a nice nap and woke up refreshed and ready to wander about Levanto.

Day Seventeen: November 7. A day off from our vacation (continued)...

It was dusk when I set out to see more of Levanto. I wandered to the Chiesa di Sant’Andrea, the last black-and-white striped church we would see on this tour. I went inside and sat down for a few minutes to soak in my surroundings. Proceeding up an ancient path, where I found a nice overlook and could see the bell tower behind the church, the town of Levanto, and neighboring towns all lit up as dusk turned to night. The path continued up to a medieval tower, Castello di Levanto, a 13th-century castle, which has a rich history, but is privately owned and not open to the public.

Just in front of the castle, I found a set of stairs that led back down to the seawall promenade and into town.

I was feeling hungry, but tired, so after walking back into town and over to the award-winning pizzeria, “La Picea”, which our guide highly recommended, and sadly finding it didn’t open until later, I walked to the nearby grocery store and bought a light dinner, a couple of beverages, and package of cookies to take back to my hotel room. Once again, dining on my hotel room balcony, gazing out into the beautiful little seaside town of Levanto, feeling completely satisfied and happy with another day well spent.

**Note: Several other tour group members went to the pizzeria for dinner and confirmed that it was delicious and worth the wait. So if you find yourself in Levanto, be sure to give them a try.

Day Eighteen: November 8. Last full day of the tour and on to our last destination, Lake Orta.

We met with our luggage in front of the hotel at 8:30 a.m., where a truck arrived to porter our large suitcases to the bus. We started off for the short walk to the train station parking lot, and even though it was not a long distance, it was nice to walk without dragging our bags up the slight hill and over the cobblestone streets.

Once we arrived at the bus, we set off for our last stop on the tour, Lake Orta. Since I had not been to any of the lakes in Northern Italy on my previous trips, I was really looking forward to this stop. The drive was a bit long, but there are plenty of comfort stops along the way, usually at an “autogrill”, so snacks, coffee, and other beverages, as well as clean restrooms are available. The scenery out the windows of the bus was beautiful too, and at one point we could see a mountain peeking out in the distance. The weather was once again amazing, with clear blue skies and crisp autumn air.

At 12:30 p.m. we arrived at Hotel La Bussola, a lovely hotel with grand views of the small Island of St. Giulio. Orta San Giulio was bustling with local tourists and families out enjoying the autumn sunshine on a Saturday afternoon. It wasn’t overly crowded, which made it an even more enjoyable stop and place to end the tour.

After settling into our rooms, mine again with a balcony and view of the lake and island, we met in front of the hotel for an orientation walk of the small village of Orta. Walking along the sidewalk and down a set of stairs, we arrived in the old town. Upon arrival in the little town, Andrea pointed out a unique coffee shop, where the owner came out to greet our group and arranged for us to come back after our orientation walk for a treat. After a brief introduction to the town and its main points of interest, we then had time for some lunch or shopping before our scheduled time of 3 p.m. to meet at the boat dock, in front of Piazza Mario Motta, for a trip around the lake and over to the island. I did a little shopping and then met up with the group at the scheduled time for our boat ride around the lake and over to the island. The autumn colors, calm lake, and clear, crisp air made this a very enjoyable experience.

We toured the island, with Andrea as our guide, learning about the history of the Basilica di San Giulio, viewing the crypt of San Giulio, and walking along The Way of Silence outside the walls of Mater Ecclesiae Abbey, which sits above the privately owned homes on the island. It was a beautiful day and a nice way to spend a couple of hours.

Once we arrived back at the Piazza in the center of Orta, we had some time to wander or join Andrea and other tour members back at The Palace coffee shop for a unique coffee/hot chocolate experience. I had a delicious hot chocolate served with a couple of cookies and a shot of grappa. This was an entertaining unplanned stop, and one all tour members enjoyed.

There was about an hour before dinner, so I chose to walk back to the hotel to freshen up before our final group dinner.

Dinner was at Restaurante Venus, with a full view of the lake and an amazing menu. We had a fixed menu for this last group meal of Vitello tonnato with Monferrina sauce, Tagliolini pasta with white rabbit ragu, braised beef with mashed potatoes, and a pear and chocolate dessert, all paired with more delicious local wines. It was a really fun evening and a great way to end the tour.

After the short walk back to the hotel, I made myself a cup of tea, sat out on the balcony for a few minutes, and then fell into a deep food coma-induced sleep in my comfortable room with a view.

Great report! I've only had time to read about the first week--I'll come back to finish after Thanksgiving. I appreciate your detailed descriptions of how each day goes, including the tour activities and free time. This is extremely helpful for anyone considering the tour.

Day Nineteen: The last morning of the tour has arrived, and a late check-out in Lake Orta.

I had arranged for late check-out at the hotel, and they pleasantly obliged by allowing me to stay in my room until 5 p.m. for an extra 30 euros. I was happy to pay the small fee so that I could explore more of Lake Orta at my leisure today. I had a pre-arranged taxi coming to take me and 2 couples from the tour on our journey to the Milan airport (MXP) at 5:30 p.m. Andrea had done a great job arranging taxis by group and times to our next destinations; it was no small job to organize everyone. This may be one reason why the tour is ending in Modena next year, mainly for logistical purposes and the convenience of being near a train station.

I slept until 8 a.m., with no rush or agenda today, I slowly got ready for the day and joined the remaining tour members and our guide for breakfast in the hotel lobby. It was bittersweet saying my farewells to everyone and Andrea our guide, I was happy that we had such a great tour and a part of me was ready to be going home to my husband and grand children, knowing the holidays were coming up, but the wanderlust in me wanted to continue on and to some of the places others were heading; Lake Como, Bologna, Norway, Sicily…

After our farewells and breakfast, I decided to walk up to the Sacro Monte di Orta, a beautiful spot at the top of the hill in Orta, with an outstanding view of the lake and surrounding countryside. The grounds' landscape features a church and 20 chapels, all dedicated to the life of St. Francis. It has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is worth a visit. The walk up was a bit steep, but it was another clear blue day, and the trees were lit up in their autumn colors, with leaves gently falling onto the old stone road leading up the path to the gates of the sacred grounds, which gave me a peaceful, fulfilled feeling as I made my way up.

I spent a couple of hours walking about the grounds, viewing each of the chapels, and listening to the church bells ring. There is a restaurant on the grounds, but I wasn’t hungry enough yet to stop for lunch.

I walked down the same path I had walked up and back to the little town of Orta. I found a couple of shops open, did a little shopping, and then found a small cafe’ off the main street. It was a delicious meal of pumpkin risotto, a plate of grilled potatoes and artichokes, and a glass of local rosé wine. It was the perfect meal to fuel me for exploring more of the town.

I checked the small tourist map that Andrea had given us upon arrival at the hotel and saw that there was a path that wound around a portion of the lake and back up to the hotel. This turned out to be a lovely way to spend a couple more hours, walking along a stone path, with lake homes and mansions lining the way. People out kayaking on the smooth, clear water. Ducks swimming along gracefully, making their V-shaped trail behind them, and the autumn trees displaying their vibrant colors, with the clear blue sky in the background. I was walking in shirt sleeves, and although it was a little chilly, the freshness of the air was comforting.

I arrived back at the hotel and went up to my room to enjoy the view from my balcony, make a cup of tea, and finish the cookies I had been packing with me since Levanto.

The time had come to pack up and join my other tour mates for our hour-long taxi ride to the Milan Airport. My flight was the next day, so I stayed one night at the airport for an easy morning check-in.

A fond farewell to another amazing trip and my first Rick Steves tour, arriverderci Italy!

@Barbara N - I'm happy to hear that this report has been helpful. The itinerary next year will end in Modena, but I think that is a good choice. Lake Orta is beautiful, though, and with the weather as amazing as it was, I loved being able to get out and walk around on the last day before leaving for home. We also stayed in Volterra instead of Lucca, due to a convention during the month of October in Lucca. I loved it in Volterra, and since my husband and I had spent a week in Lucca on a previous trip, I was happy to be going to a town that was new for me. Enjoy and Happy Thanksgiving to you!