I caught the 10 am train from Wien Meidling to Budapest, first time travelling between countries with luggage on a train and a little nervous about my ability to heave suitcase, carry-on tote and myself on-board, stow luggage and find a seat, but it all worked perfectly, even sat right across from the luggage area. Arrived at Keleti a bit before 1 pm and was immediately overwhelmed by a sense of being in a very foreign country, hadn't felt that way in Vienna. Not much English signage, lots of people gabbling away and frazzled about catching their trains. I shooed away guys offering taxi services and found the ATM, then called City Taxi and was picked up in less than 5 minutes. I stayed on So utca at the Boutique Hotel Zara, very clean and modern hotel, great staff but an extraordinarily small room; room for the bed (which was NOT comfy), nightstands and skinny desk, no chair to sit in. Bathroom small but ok--after my huge room in Vienna I was disappointed, but everything was clean and nice so figured I'd only be in there a few hours every evening and the location was excellent for the tram and metro, plus the free breakfast was very good. I headed right out to the Kalvin ter metro, bought a 3 day pass and visited the Applied Arts Museum--loved it, just the kinds of things I like to see.
I explored the area a bit and had dinner from a stand at the Great Market Hall, Bremi, I believe. Such a lovely building, such wonderful things to eat! Overwhelmed by the choices but went for a pork sausage and big butter beans in a red greasy (in a good way) kind of sauce that was excellent with a Dreher beer. I decided to turn in early so as to get a fresh perspective on Budapest the next day.
Thursday I had a 9:45 tour of Parliament, really loved the statues of all the different types of craftspeople in Hungary. Lots of armed guards. Across Kossuth Lajos ter was the Museum of Ethnography and it was fairly deserted, not sure why, but as someone with Hungarian ancestry I enjoyed every display, so many beautiful costumes, implements and explanations of daily life in Hungary. Headed up Falk Miksa for the antique shops--a bit fancier than the collectibles I favour from the mid-1900s but I like to see old stuff no matter what. Had lunch outdoors at Café Picard and continued on to the end of Falk Miksa before catching the metro to the Terror House on Andrassy. Incredibly powerful and compelling museum, very well-done and meticulously detailed accounting of life in Hungary during their two periods of occupation. Made it to the Opera in time for the 4 pm tour, then back to my neighbourhood where I poked around the Danube and a bit of Vaci utca.
Friday I took the metro to Batthyany and bought my tickets for the HEV train to Szentendre. Rickety old train but I liked seeing a bit of the area surrounding Budapest. Szentendre was absolutely gorgeous, charming little medieval cobble-stoned town along the Danube just full of good things. Lots of touristy shops, but also a craft fair in the middle of town, antique shops where I found the perfect souvenir, lots of hand-crafted items and art galleries. The Margit Kovacs museum was a delight, I highly recommend that, especially if you like sculpture and tile work. Had chicken paprikas at outdoor café on the square, attended by a darling yellow tabby cat who was all over the town, in shops and restaurants, visiting but not seeming to bother anyone. Couldn't figure out the return train time but magically arrived just in time to leave at about 5 pm.