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April 2026 London and Isle of Wight Trip report

Following 12 nights in Belgium and the Netherlands, I spent 11 nights here:
7 nights London; 3 nights Isle of Wight; 1 night London.

I arrived at St. Pancras via Eurostar from Amsterdam. I was expecting an easier process leaving Amsterdam, but I stood in a long line in the waiting area, then a long line to exit the EU, then the same long line to enter the UK. Lots of standing, which for me is far worse than lots of walking. Toss up as to whether or not I would do this again over flying or not.

My first 3 nights were at the hub by Premiere Inn West Brompton. Although a bit further out, it was very conveniently close to the West Brompton tube stop, except for my final morning when the District Line was shut down. It was on a par with other hubs I have stayed in, plus being a little less expensive. No complaints.

Day 1 I took an East End food tour and my guide was Rick’s guide in London: Yesterday and Today show, appearing at @ 7:10. Lots of good food and interesting information on the transitions of the East End. In the evening I headed to Victoria Palace for Hamilton.

Day 2 was an excursion with Nigel and Mrs. Nigel to Hampton Court Palace for tulips and the rest of the gardens. A good visit, pretty flowers, and beautiful sunshine - couldn’t get better. They dropped me back at the hotel in time to rest and then head to the Aldwych Theater for Shadowlands, with Hugh Bonneville. Of the four shows I saw, this one topped the list. I was glad to have splurged for a ticket right at the front.

Day 3 was a change of location for the next 4 nights to a 2 bed, 2 bath apartment right at the Fountain Gate entrance to Hyde Park, because I had 2 friends joining me for the rest of my time in England. This was the day the District Line was closed (at least out my direction) and after two tries to re-route, I gave up and caught a cab. The apartment, with a 24 hr staffed front desk, had the potential to be great, but a few small inconveniences kept it at pretty good. We then went to afternoon tea at The Beaumont Mayfair (beautiful and delicious, but I would have been just as happy with something less expensive).

Day 4 We explored the Treasures Collection at the British Library, then wandered Borough Market - then I attended 3:00 evensong at Southwark Cathedral and they went to The Tower of London and Tower Bridge. We met up for dinner near The Globe, followed by a performance of The Tempest. I have seen the Tempest - but I have to say that if I hadn’t, I truly might have had no idea what was going on. Ha! Still, it was entertaining.

Day 5 was a mix. It was a first visit for them so I had already seen some things they wanted to see. We started at the British Museum. Then I dropped them off at Buckingham Palace for a tour and I walked on over to the Imperial War Museum. Afterwards, they went to Harrods and I went to Westminster Abbey for evening prayer (no evensong, unfortunately). We went straight from there to an unremarkable dinner before our tickets to Moulin Rouge. This show wins the prize for the most interesting set design I’ve seen, as well as great vocals all around.

Day 6 we split for different day trips. One friend wanted to cram her day full so opted for a tour of Stonehenge, the outside of Windsor Castle (but she covered a lot of ground in the area), Lacock, and Bath for the Roman Bath. My other friend and I did the touristy (and not cheap) Downton Abbey tour, with several stops in the Cotswolds, including Cogges Manor Farm and Bampton, before spending the afternoon at Highclere Castle. I had seen everything except the final movie and that was available on the plane on the way home, so watching and recognizing so many spots from the day trip was fun.

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Day 7 we packed up and headed to Waterloo Station to take the train to Portsmouth Harbour Station followed by the Fast cat to Ryde on the Isle of Wight. I spent a couple of nights in Portsmouth back in 2022 and seeing the boat right there so handy started the urge to visit. I thought about it in 2024 - and finally went this year!

We rented a little Air BnB 2 bedroom cottage in Ryde (up the hill about 15 min and 7 min going back down - ha!). I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to get back and forth from the boat. It really was perfect, but I think a second time I might rent in Shanklin or elsewhere knowing it’s not hard to get there, especially if you are using the train to & from the pier anyway. We went hard in London so this was our time to slow down and smell the roses (or the lilies in our garden). So every day was a slow morning.

Day 1 we caught the #4 bus, tapping on, to Osborne House where we spent all afternoon. The gardens were beautiful and we saw everything. There are free shuttles that take you to the private beach and to the Swiss Cottage that Albert had built for the children. The gift shop and the cafe are both nice.

On Day 2, we went out for breakfast (our only time to do so), wandered for a bit of shopping, then took the #3 bus to Shanklin to the Old Village. This is a small charming area, with old houses and thatched roofs - and the delightful Old Thatch Teashop, where of course, we had tea. As others have noted in other posts, there is much more we could have seen, just in Shanklin. It would have been wonderful to have a week and head out to a new stately house or scenic area each day. There is plenty to see and do! Busses were timely and frequent enough to easily manage getting around. (Summer may be different.)

Day 3 it was time to head back to London for a final night before we all flew out. A story about this, though. When I was purchasing our round trip tickets from South Western, I found the trains I wanted and hit buy. As soon as confirmation came up, I immediately saw they were for the wrong dates - each way a day prior to what I had entered. My first thought was the time difference messing with dates and immediately emailed customer service. While this wasn’t an easy fix, I probably received replies from 4 different people who were all so kind and helpful. My first reply told me they could refund my purchase if I sent them proof I had purchased new tickets. No problem. Except that every time I chose my date there, it changed the day - AND there were now no trains on my return date. I think the 4th person figured out that for some reason, there were no South Western trains until 8pm that evening, which wouldn’t work. However, he found me a route, slightly out of the way, from Portsmouth Harbour to Southampton and from there to London. And after purchasing and sending a copy of my tickets, I had a swift refund. I now think that because of no service on my return date, the app was reverting to both trips on the day before - and I just didn’t see that. At any rate, it was great service and had a happy ending.

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For our last night, I did something fairly impractical. I was so intrigued by the Limehouse Library Hotel that I booked our final night there (plus one of my friends adores libraries and bookstores). It wasn’t convenient for LHR for them or for Stansted or Gatwick for me, but we loved it. It is a former library now turned hotel and the decor in all the common spaces is just over the top interesting. The rooms are very comfy and not as over the top and each is themed by a writer. I had a single room around Cervantes and they had a twin room themed Che Guevara. The several common rooms (lounge, library, bar, restaurant, and breakfast room) were a brilliant display of color and objects. Price was very reasonable, WiFi good, and breakfast good - I would absolutely stay again. The bus was close and easy, tube wasn’t far but we didn’t use it because busses were easier with luggage.
Previous discussion: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/england/limehouse-library-hotel

After checking in, we walked to The Grapes for dinner - actually a stunning end to our trip. Not only is it old and atmospheric, owned by Sir Ian and associates, but the food was good. Plus the manager (she has worked there for 20 years) sat down with us and regaled us with stories for over half an hour. It’s small, order and pay at the bar, and tell them where you are sitting. After dinner, we walked to Canary Wharf Pier and took the Uber boat down the Thames, with our return as all the lights were coming on. I don’t know how the evening could have been better.

The following morning I made my friends take an Uber to LHR (ha!) and I slept in, then had the excellent breakfast. I had intended to go to St. Anne’s Limehouse Sunday morning, but I was beginning to not feel well and had a day of travel ahead. That will have to wait for a return. I had a simple bus and train connection to Stansted for a flight to Budapest for a few relaxing (not expensive) days, then a few days in Zurich with my daughter (expensive food, free lodging) before flying home.

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TTM, you have this incredible ability to make me want to immediately go every place you write about in your trip report. I always enjoy reading them, and you always have some new places in there that I've never heard of, and now I want to visit.

And I'm very intrigued by the Limehouse Library Hotel as that looks really cool. The Grapes look pretty interesting, too. I will check that out for my next trip. Sorry about your problems with the train, though. That's really bizarre, but I'm glad it all worked out in the end.

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This show wins the prize for the most interesting set design I’ve
seen,

Is probably the most entertained I've ever been before a show started. I'm glad we got there early.

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your day 2 on the Isle of Wight catches my attention, interesting properties are interesting!

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Sounds like a great middle portion of your trip! A couple things I noticed:

The Globe, followed by a performance of The Tempest. I have seen the Tempest - but I have to say that if I hadn’t, I truly might have had no idea what was going on. Ha! Still, it was entertaining.

We saw Antony and Cleopatra last spring at The Globe, and Midsummer Night’s Dream at the adjacent Wannamaker Playhouse in December. In each, the setting was spectacular; the performances were interesting, with some entertaining bits, but overall, less than completely satisfying. The authentically reconstructed (but somewhat smaller than the original) Globe is fascinating, and the inspired, accurate design of the intimate, candlelit, indoor Wannamaker is a magical space. It seems, though, that both now strive for “edgy” or “quirky,” perhaps cutting-edge productions, which strain following the storyline (iambic pentameter notwithstanding), and take away from the overall Shakespeare experience. Mess with a Classic and the results aren’t necessarily an improvement. To paraphrase The Bard, The Playhouse’s the Thing, so to speak, not The Play. Both performances were less than the venue, IMHO.

and

My other friend and I did the touristy (and not cheap) Downton Abbey tour

Gee, after seeing Hugh Bonneville up close a few nights earlier, it’s too bad that you couldn’t have arranged a personal tour from him … if he hadn’t been busy with Shadowlands! :-)

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…And you’ve “rented a cottage on the Isle of Wight! I hope it wasn’t too dear, and you didn’t have to scrimp and save!

I’ve not been there, but have always been a bit intrigued by Sir Paul’s song, written more than 64 years ago.