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Another corner of the Alto-Adige; Merano

We just spent 3 nights in Merano after years of contemplating making a stop. We spend a lot of time up in the Val Gardena and Alpe di Siusi but never carved out time for Merano.

It is a delightful small city with a charming historical center and links to Austrian royalty. Most of the tourists here are German right now. One couple told us they come often as it is only 3 hours by car for room their home in Bavaria. And they are comfortable here because German is by far the preferred language of the locals. In fact, I feel odd speaking Italian and find responses from locals are often in German!

There is good walking here (The Tappeinerweg and the various waalwegs ) and a delightful garden at Trauttmansdorff Castle. We wiled away 3 hours there and could have stayed longer to do every path. Since Merano is on a train line, it is an easy stop only an hour from Bolzano. No cow-culture as it is not actually in the mountains, but it is in a high valley surrounded by peaks with vineyards and orchards galore.

Posted by
1461 posts

I’m so glad you enjoyed Merano - I did too! Did you see the humorous Adam and Eve sculpture in the Gardens?

Posted by
9777 posts

I did enjoy the sculpture! I also loved the emphasis on biodiversity and sustainable practices. Very educational.

Posted by
1424 posts

We have Italian friends who recommended Merano over Bolzano for August trip to Northern Italy. We were looking for mountain views accessible by train. As it turned out, we didn't make it to either one. But good to know for the future.

Posted by
2880 posts

Thanks for the encouraging trip report. We spent three days there too several years ago and really liked the hillside irrigation waalwegs for hiking. We thought it was the best of both worlds for delicious Italian and German cuisine. We happened to be there when pifferlingen mushrooms were in season and we had a local dish of them every evening, sometimes with pasta and sometimes with fried potatoes.

We thought it would be a great area to visit and hike in in the spring when all those apple trees were blooming.

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12205 posts

thank you for the report, Laurel. I am adding Merano and the Trauttmansdorff gardens to our list of things to see before we meet our hiking tour in Bressanone next September.

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9777 posts

Very convenient to Bressanone, Lola. Good for 3 nights, I’d say. I can recommend an apartment with a Nespresso. https://www.rennweg114.it/. Clean, compact, high design standards, quiet despite its location.

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12490 posts

Oooooh, Laurel! Had to run off and google up some pictures as this one was new to me. Oooooooooh!!!!!
And where are you now?

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9777 posts

Kathy,
Since I posted about Merano we went, on sudden impulse and change of itinerary, to Venice. Spent last night in Torino to break up the trip to Paris where we will arrive today.

Venice was peaceful Thurs and Fri with good weather and no cruise ships, mostly Italians as visitors, some young people doing architectural tours for Biennale. Still restaurants were busy and any place good required advance planning and a reservation. But Saturday was insanely crowded! Could not even get on a vaporetto to Murano without a 45 minute wait! Every Venetian seemed to be out and about and throngs of visitors and their dogs were roaming the calli and rive. Maintaining distance was a joke! We walked around in masks but young people crowded the bars, drinking in cafes outdoors but in close quarters.

We had an amazing dinner in Venice Saturday night and another in Torino last night. Gotta love Piemontese food and wine!

I have to add that coming to Italy after Switzerland has made everything seem inexpensive by comparison.

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12490 posts

There were a couple of trip reports over the summer that mentioned how very busy Venice was, especially the vaporetti. I'm concerned that Ravenna will become overrun too, now that a lot more of the cruise ships will be relocating to that one? It's on my itinerary list for next time, and I'd hoped to see it without being smushed.

Looking forward to a report from Paris!