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Andalucia, Spain February, 2025

Pre-departure
The travelers; Married couple in late fifties, early sixties. Our first time in Spain! Initially I had planned 5 nights in Seville, but during my research I discovered this hike called the Caminito del Rey and immediately thought, I have to do it!

EditedA shout out to CWSocial on this forum, who had been to Andalucia in November and was very helpful in planning this trip.

Our itinerary;
Arrive Malaga
El Chorro (1 night)
Seville (4 nights)
Cordoba (3 nights)
Granada (4 nights)
Ronda (2 nights)
Malaga (1 night)
Depart Malaga
I will cover the following in this trip report; Cities & Sites, Food, Accommodations, Transportation, Final Thoughts

Cities & Sites
El Caminito del Rey-We left Malaga upon arrival at the airport via private transfer with Daytrip.com It was about an 1 hour drive to El Chorro where we spent the night at La Garganta hotel. The next morning we had purchased advance tickets to hike the Caminito del Rey, a cliff walk along a steep gorge. We had to take a shuttle bus from our hotel to get to the start of the hike. There are several ticket options, we chose the unguided ticket and were glad with this choice. I actually don’t like heights, but since there was a railing, I knew I would be fine and I was. This was just amazing! It was a highlight of our trip to Spain and not a hard hike. Easy! There were people in their 80’s doing it. It took us about two hours and after we were done, we ended up right at our hotel. Highly, highly recommend.

Seville-We stayed at Hotel Amadeus, which is just a few blocks from the Seville Cathedral. We started off by going to Las Setas or ‘the Mushroom” as it is affectionately called by the locals. Largest wooden structure in the world. We bought tickets to tour the top and enjoyed seeing it all lit up at night and after there was a 15 min movie on Seville that we enjoyed.

Seville Cathedral-We had advance tickets for the english tour of the Cathedral roof tops. We got to learn a lot about the building of this cathedral, the largest one in Spain and go where other tourists don’t get to go. Afterwards we were able to tour the rest of the cathedral at our leisure and see Christopher Columbus’s tomb. I definitely recommend doing this.

Royal Alcazar-We had purchased timed advance tickets for the royal apartments and enjoyed doing this tour. They have an English audio guide and a guard shows you the way around. You must put all your gear in a locker. We thought it was very good and recommend. Then we toured the gardens on our own and loved this. Peacocks flying around, tons of great bird sounds, we spent at least two hours here.
We also did the Rick Steves audio guided walk today. We love his audio guides and always do them if there is one in the city we are visiting.

Our last day in Seville we had no plans! There was a marathon going through the city, so we watched the runners for a while and then walked along the river and crossed the bridge to the Triana area where we wandered some more. We decided to do one of the river cruises, it’s one hour. It was fine, but not a must do. We had so enjoyed our river cruise on the Thames in London, but this is NOT that! Lol!
That evening, we had tickets at the Flamenco museum for their Flamenco show. The museum is ok, we were not too impressed, but the show, holy cow, fantastic! Highly recommend.

Cordoba-We arrived in Cordoba in the late afternoon and took the bus to our hotel Balcon de Cordoba. We had time to tour some of the patios for which the town is known for. We went into about 5 of them that were free, there were others, but you had to buy tickets and we decided not to. We wandered around, crossed the very cool bridge and went into the Museum of Andalucia, which is a small museum on, you guessed it, the history of Andalucia.

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Mezquita-We hired a private guide to tell us all about the Mezquita. His name was Angel and we got him out of the Rick Steves guidebook on Andalucia. What a fascinating place! A feast for the eyes. After, he showed us around more of Cordoba.

Jewish museum-We bought tickets for an english tour of this small, but powerful museum on the history of the Jews in Cordoba. Very enlightening and the guide was great. He even sang some songs in Hebrew for our very small group.

Palacio d’Viana-We went through here just to see some more beautiful patios.

Hamman Al Andalucia Spa-I went to this alone in the evening as my husband was not interested. It was interesting! The atmosphere is very cool, you feel like a real Roman at the baths. You do need a swimsuit for this. The body scrub and massage were good. I enjoyed this! Slept like a baby that night!
El Cardenal Flamenco-another Flamenco show. We enjoyed this one to. Not quite as polished as the one in Seville, but still very good and they give you a glass of wine to enjoy with the show.

Granada-We stayed at Hotel Anacapri near all the action.

Alhambra-we took the little red tourist bus up to the Alhambra for our advance purchase timed ticket to the Nasrid Palace. Yikes, this is a crowded, popular attraction. Eventually the crowds thinned out. Worth it to fight the tourist hordes though for this. What a masterpiece of Islamic architecture! We tried getting the QR code for the audio guide, but couldn’t get it to work. Others around us had success, so not sure what the problem was, but we had to tour it without any kind of a guide. We spent a little over two hours here and then walked back to town through a lovely green space.

Granada Cathedral-We also toured the Granada Cathedral, the columns are massive and the pipe organ is spectacular.
Church of San Juan Dios-Wow, wow! I do not understand why this is not in Rick’s book, but if you are in Granada, I definitely recommend this. Over the top. There is even a VFR headset that gives you a birds eye view of the church, but I wasn’t too impressed as the screen images were a bit blurred. The audio guide was very good.

Royal Chapel-Where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella have their tombs. We were glad we did this.
Albayzin and Sacromonte neighborhoods-Two of the oldest neighborhoods in Granada and a lovely place to just wander. Definitely got our steps in!

Filigrania-We had a one hour stop here on our way to Ronda. One of the white villages and very picturesque. Frigiliana was inhabited by the Moors both before and after the Reconquest, and its historic old quarter was built in their distinctive ‘Mudejar’ style. Lots of tourist busses apparently stop here.

Ronda-We stayed at Hotel Catalonia Ronda overlooking the bull ring.

Bull ring and museum-While we were not interested in attending a bull fight, we did want to learn more about this cultural activity. The audio guide is excellent and we enjoyed this very much. The museum is very well done.

Reservaturo- is a breeding farm of fighting bulls and pure Andalusian horses, located in a space which is declared biosphere’s reserve by UNESCO, on the Costa del Sol and just 5 km far from Ronda, created by the bullfighter Rafael Tejada. We had a private tour here and this was great! We learned about the raising of the bulls and the guide was awesome. Another highlight of our trip to Spain. Rick only gives it one pyramid, while I would give it two.

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Sentenil de las Bodegas-We had a one hour stop here on our way to Malaga. We had a hard time navigating our way around, but finally found one of the cool areas where the houses are built into the cliffs. As I sometimes find, pictures on the internet are cooler than real life, but it wasn’t a total waste of time. One of the houses was charging one euro to enter and I really needed a bathroom, so I paid it and the very nice gentleman let me use his banos. So since I was in, I had to wander through. It was tiny, but he had a full size stainless steel fridge!
Malaga-We got here in the evening and stayed near the airport since we had an early morning flight. We had plans to go out for a special celebration, but after hiking all over Sentenil, we were pooped and just ended up having dinner at the hotel.

Food
Food is important to us and I usually do some research on restaurants before the trip begins. Surprise! We never had a bad meal in Spain! And the wine, gosh, it made my heart happy to only pay 4 euros for a good glass of wine. I won’t list everywhere we ate, just a few that stand out. There is no way we could eat dinner at the time the Spanairds do, our travel style is to eat a big breakfast at the hotel and then eat between 2-3pm as our big meal. We typically don’t eat again after this, but sometimes would seek out something sweet like gelato or churros.

Seville-El Rinconcillo is the oldest bar in Seville. Eat the traditional way by standing at the table to eat your tapas. This was an experience. The place was hopping with locals and we were lucky to get a stand up table and had fun watching the waiters and locals. The tapas were excellent as well.

Cordoba-Bodegas Campos is recommended in the RS guidebook. This place is huge and we had fun exploring. The food was very good too.
Granada-Carmen de Aben Humeya has a beautiful terrace overlooking the Alhambra. Very good food too, although the service was not very attentive.
Ronda-Arrabal we had hoped to eat on the terrace, but there had been a heavy downpour and it was closed. Still we had a wonderful meal here and a fun waitress who spoke very good English.

Accommodations
El Chorro-La Garganta is the only hotel located right near the El Caminito del Rey. It’s very nice and overlooks some stunning scenery on its terrace.
Seville-Hotel Amadeus Fantastic location! Not only is the hotel done in musical decor, but it has a wonderful rooftop terrace with a hot tub (which we used) and a view of the Cathedral. Breakfast is good. Highly, highly recommend.
Cordoba-Hotel Balcon de Cordoba Another fantastic location. It has a beautiful courtyard and the rooftop terrace has you looking right at the Mezquita. We are suckers for a rooftop terrace with a view! Breakfast was good. Highly recommend.
Granada-Hotel Anacapri Ok, this is in the RS guidebook and it is a typical RS style hotel. However, it was a bit of a let down from our two previous hotels. It has a fantastic location, but the street does lack charm. Breakfast was our least favorite of all the hotels. Eggs could only be eaten one way. Boiled.
Ronda-Hotel Catalonia Ronda Another excellent location overlooking the oldest bullring in Spain. It has a rooftop bar and restaurant overlooking the bullring and we enjoyed having a glass of wine with snack here. The breakfast was the best of all our hotel stays. Tons of variety and an omelette cooking station. Highly recommend.
Malaga-Malaga Vibes An airport hotel that did have a restaurant and bar. Which was good because we were too tired this night to go out. They had a jar of candy in the lobby that you could help yourself too. So I did.

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Transportation
We love taking the trains in Europe, but sometimes the train websites or just figuring out the logistics is not so fun. We took the train between Seville to Cordoba and Cordoba to Granada. We could have used public transport from Granada to Ronda, but it would have taken a lot of time and with this being a shorter trip, we didn't want to use our valuable time for this. From El Chorro to Seville, we used the train. This was the only part before the trip that I had not pre-booked a train ticket. We took the train from El Chorro to Malaga and then had to buy a ticket to Seville. The whole process took 6 hours. Yheah, I almost wished we had done a private transfer for this too.
We have driven in Europe before, but this time hubby didn't want to rent a car, get an IDP, navigate, find parking, pay for parking etc. So we did three private transfers using Daytrip.com We had never used them before, but it worked out great. Picked us up right at our hotel (door to door is so nice) and were always on time, the drivers spoke some English and we were able to make a stop on the way to our destination. Once we had to change our pick up time, no problem. Highly recommend and we would not hesitate to use them again.

Final ThoughtsWe had a wonderful trip to Spain and would love to go back and see more. It was a major haul to get there and get home. I will not do that again for only a two week trip. From now on, at least a month or more. I wish I had brought my puffy vest as it was a bit colder in the mornings than I had anticipated. Thankfully, by putting on some layers, I was ok. We had some rain, but it did not impact our trip. I loved all the orange trees all over and can only imagine the heavenly smell this must give off at the right time of year.
I kept track of all our spending using the TravelSpend app. Although this trip was 5 days longer than the Rick Steves Andalucia tour it cost less by $666.00 and our hotels were an upgrade from what he uses for his tours. We had several private transfers and private guides.

I love to do photobooks of our travels, and I will add to this post when completed.

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I certainly enjoyed following your trip, Tammy, on Facebook with your photos. Not sure I could say you’re not afraid of open heights with all of your activities testing that out!

I anticipate that you will be back for more!

A comment about your expenses - when I’m traveling independently, I’m usually spending about half of what it would cost to do a RS tour. My 14-day trip to Spain in February averaged $223/day for everything except my flight - 100% of my meals, all activities (including two Hammam Bath, Kessa scrub & 30-minute massages), transportation and very nice hotels in fantastic locations with amazing breakfasts. Comparing that with the 10-day RS Andalucía tour (9 nights) and adding the single supplement, it would be $468/night if I did the tour. So, it’s coming out at a 50% savings this time, too.

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Jean, I did some more math and our trip was $245.00 a day per person. That includes our flights. I’m not dissing RS tours. They are a good value and we will most likely take another one at some point in the future. But right now, we prefer independent travel. For us, too many unknowns with tour members.

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”I’m not dissing RS tours…”. Absolutely! I continue to think they’re a great tour company and recommend them often to newer travelers, especially a great option to visit a new country!.

And yes, I do feel like I’ve spoiled myself now with the freedom of independent travel.

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Tammy, it sounds like it was an amazing trip. Spain is one of my favorite countries and I always enjoy reading trip reports featuring it. Thanks for posting.

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Tammy, thanks for the reminder that I am so ready to go back to Spain. The food, architecture, colors and character are a combination of some of my favorite aspects of travel. And it is such easy travel.

I love everywhere that I go, but Andalusia might just be a lasting favorite. I agree, I'd like to go in the spring to experience the smell of the orange blossoms.

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Great trip report and fun to stroll down memory lane of our 2018 Best of Spain tour. Thanks for posting this!

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CWSocial, thanks for all your help in planning this trip! I edited my original post, because I wanted to give you a shout out. I’m just going to stay in the same hotels as you from now on! Wink, wink

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Wonderful report, Tammy! I’m seriously considering a trip to Andalusia for 2026. I’m bookmarking your report, and will be sure to check in with you, CW, and Christine as I plan.

Thanks for providing your costs. I was interested to see that they were so reasonable, even with the use of some private transfers and nice hotels.

Glad you had such a good time.

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Tammy, my pleasure! And I was paying it forward from Christine and TexasTravelMom, who gave me great ideas and helped make my Andalusia trip fabulous.

With Jean's great photos and stories and Christine's second visit itinerary, I'm piecing together my next visit!

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Great to read about your time in all these places. I think your tour of Seville Cathedral sounds a lot better than the one I took.

I wish I'd known about El Caminito del Rey before I planned my trip.

Great to read about all the things you did in Granada. I'll be there at the tail end of my trip in May, so I will definitely make sure to reread this beforehand.

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@CWsocial & Tammy, I am probably heading back next February. Maybe a group of us should try for a meet up in one of the cities! Cordoba, Sevilla & Estepona are all on my next itinerary. Maybe loop up through Madrid because I love their art museums.

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Jean, I love that idea and you got me all excited! Until I remembered that I'll be in Mexico next February. Following in Tammy's footsteps, actually!

February sounds like a great time of year, but if you end up going a different month for whatever reason.... count me in! I had been thinking November of 2026, although April or early May are also appealing.

ETA: I'm also planning to go back through Madrid and visit more of its museums. And also to drop in on Segovia or Toledo, or both.

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Tammy, were you happy with how you divided your nights among the locations? If you had one more night, where would you add?

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Tammy, thanks for the great trip report! I had fun reading about some of my favorite places in the world, especially Granada. I totally agree with you on San Juan del Dios -- what a stunner!

It's a bummer that your audioguides didn't work at the Alhambra; the background information really brings the place to life (Although the architecture and setting alone are amazing. I've been four times now, and I'm still blown away every time I visit.).

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Nice TR, Tammy. Brought back a lot of memories. Glad you were able to see Basilica of San Juan de Dios. That place was unreal.

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Barbara-I was happy with the amount of time we had in each place. We had time to slow down a bit and wander. If we had one more night, I would add to Malaga, as I wanted to see the Picasso museum there, but alas, it will have to wait till next time. We would also like to spend time in Cadiz, also for our next visit me thinks.
DebVT-it was a bummer that we couldn’t get the QR code to work for the audioguide. We have certainly used QR codes for audioguides before and not had a problem. It would have definitely added to our time at the Alhambra if we could have gotten it to work. I even asked it there was another kind of audioguide, but no.

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Great report - and I’m jealous! Southern Spain is on my list - I’ve got a whole month mapped out for there;)