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Amsterdam in February trip report

I went to Amsterdam after 10 wonderful days in Paris. (I posted a separate trip report on that.) I bought a train ticket for this switch of locals back in November. I debated whether to taxi or metro to the train station from my hotel and decided to metro. My bag is about 18-19 lbs and I can handle going up stairs carrying it and I didn’t have to do that many stairs actually. The trip to the train station was easy. The train left from Gare du Nord at 10:48 AM and was a very pleasant ride, I was able to easily put my bag in the overhead rack where I was sitting.

The train came into Amsterdam’s central station about 2:20. Lots of trams right out front, I knew from Google Maps which tram to catch and it even gives you the platform # where it is, so finding the right place to get the tram you need is very doable. And, God bless them, all of Amsterdam bus and trams are tap on and off with your credit card. Very user friendly.

Hotel: I stayed at Hotel Aalders in Amsterdam, it’s right in the art museum quarter and near tram stops and it was a great location for me. It has very friendly staff, happy to give recommendations and answer any questions. And very bilingual. They upgraded my room from a single to a double. Sweet! The hotel in Paris was a little more upscale but this hotel was very comfortable, also 24/7 someone on the desk. I didn’t do breakfast at this hotel. One thing I love about solo non tour travel is a lazy start to the day with a breakfast sweet I bought the day before, and a cup or two of good tea I brought with me. BTW: My last night at the hotel they even left a thank you note with a champagne flute, baby bottle of prosecco with a chocolate on a tray. Aww….so nice.

These folks are so kind, I just received a lovely email thanking me for the very positive review I gave them on the standard survey they send after you leave! It wasn’t a form email either.

Phone: I used Consumer Cellular international service and it worked great. This is the 3rd or 4th time with them and I’ve been pleased every time. I’m extremely phone dependent for navigating and looking stuff up while I’m out and about. I used 8GB during my 22 days and it cost $26.

I was in Amsterdam from Feb 12-23. For quite a few years I’ve done tour and solo travel combined but I wanted to get back to a city intensive trip like I used to do years ago. I did wonder how it would seem to be on my own again for 3 full weeks. I’m pleased to find I slipped back into the solo experience just fine and enjoyed myself quite a bit.

Continued..

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I loved walking the city and didn’t have any issues with bicycles once I got the hang of the system. I was a little nervous about that after reading some peoples experiences but it was really ok. There definitely were fellow travelers wherever I walked but it was a very manageable level and all but the 2 big museums, Van Gogh and the Rijks, felt very open without many people at all. It was colder than my time in Paris, temps ranged from 30s to 50. Mostly cloudy, some rain but most of the time if it rained it was at night. The weather never slowed me down, I was always warm enough walking the cities I was visiting.

I haven’t been there since 2009 so a lot was different and a lot to see again. I bought a year pass for the Rijksmuseum, 60€, and a Museumkaart, 70 or 75€, I can’t remember which, that gives you entrance to 5 museums in their lineup. I bought it at the Rembrandt house and used it 3 times at the Van Gogh museum and once at, I think, the Frans Hals museum in Haarlem.

You have to make a timed reservation at the Van Gogh to get in but it’s very easy to do online and you just indicate you have the Museumkaart and you don’t pay anything. When you arrive you just get scanned in on the entry time email they sent and then they scan the Museumkaart.

Again because it was February I didn’t make any prior reservations until I got to the city and just figured how I wanted things to flow. I went to the Rijksmuseum 4 times, including a cool special exhibit I lucked into, the Van Gogh 3 times, also saw a special exhibit there. I went to Mauritius in The Hague, Grote Kerk in Haarlem, also a super special exhibition at the Frans Hals Museum. I saw the Stedelijk Museum, Lord in the Attic museum, and walked the so peaceful Begijnhof area.

I also went to the National Holocaust Museum and the Resistance Museum on the same day. It was a very thought provoking day but I definitely recommend both places. I also recommend doing the Holocaust museum first to contrast the differing perspectives about the end of the war before you go to the Resistance Museum and read about the same experience.

I went to Sunday Mass at a very cold church, Obrechtkerk, in the museum quarter. I almost never miss going to mass when I travel because it’s almost like a tourist event in itself and a needed reminder of the connection to the good part of common humanity that I need these days.

I had good meals at The Pantry, Stamppot, for traditional Dutch food. Also liked Blushing right near my hotel; I ate in museum cafes and snagged sandwiches and small cut up fruit and salad portions from the Albert Heijn grocery. I stopped by different bakeries for breakfast goodies too.

I want to add how friendly and relaxed I found being a tourist in Amsterdam. Besides the fact everyone speaks English, everyone was so nice and welcoming, quick to smile and add a personal comment. I was very, very impressed with the Dutch! I wonder, do they score high on the happiest people scale you read about sometimes? Or maybe it’s way too early for them to be sick of tourists in the year and they won’t be so happy in August?

There was a lot I didn’t get to in Amsterdam but I came into this trip with thoughts of relaxing and enjoying and not try to fit one more thing into the day. I can always come back. Through the years I have figured out that 3 weeks is about my sweet spot, more than that I have found leads to sensory overload, I start really missing my husband and come home sort of frazzled. I can do it but I’ve finally figured out that for me, less is more, if you know what I mean.

The only hiccup in the trip was an issue with my departure. I was scheduled to leave on Feb 22 but the big snow dump in the northeast canceled my flight the night before. I had chosen a flight that went through Philadelphia. So 2 hours + of dealing with AA online got me out on the 23rd flying on British Airways.

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Continued….Luckily the hotel extended me an extra day and I didn’t even have to change rooms. And I was able to get the last aisle seat left on the flight from Heathrow to DFW! Whew.

If you are still here after this overlong info dump, please ask any questions you have…… Lynda

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What a nice trip! I will be in Amsterdam for the first time next month. For some reason it hasn’t been high on my list but maybe I will find I am also enchanted (and have to come back). And I am inching toward those longer stays in one place. (So far my average stay is 3-5 nights.)

Thanks for the info but also for sharing the vibe!

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735 posts

What an excellent trip report! I prefer solo travel as well and like to stay several nights in one city. I know what you mean about finding that sweet spot for the length of your travel. Mine is 12-14 days but I want to work up to 30 days at some point. Amsterdam is on my short list of next places to go so thanks for the good info.

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Lyndash, thanks for your Amsterdam report. It seems you caught a break with the weather--when I visited there in December 2024, it was in the 20s the entire time. I am not sure whether you had been to Amsterdam previously, but you did not mention the Anne Frank House. And I also enjoyed the Dutch Resistance Museum in the city.

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What a lovely pair of trip reports ... I remember you saying you wanted a tea towel from Haarlem as a souvenir for someone. Did you in fact find one in the end?

Lavandula

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Thank you for sharing! And thanks for the recommendations. I will try to make it to the Holocaust museum. We did visit the Holocaust memorial museum in DC last May. And now I'm questioning my decision to not buy a museum pass (and I've already purchased Van Gogh museum tickets). So glad you could do this and the off season weather didn't hamper your trip too much except at the end. I was thinking of everyone traveling when we had the big storms.

Do you have another adventure planned for later this year?

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Thanks so much for this TR as well! I love that you were going for a "relaxed" trip and managed to get to the Rijksmuseum 4 times, hahaha! I love their app, especially the feature that will show you how to get from where you are to a different gallery or painting! The Louvre definitely needs this!

Did you find the AH underneath the MuseumPlein? It's a pretty good one!

Thanks so much for spending the time to write up and post your Trip Reports! You had such a good time.

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1987 posts

Lyndash, thanks for sharing your trip report. I've been thinking of Amsterdam in the fall. Interesting to hear that the Museumkaart allowed multiple entries to the same location. It definitely sounds like a worthwhile pass. Your Paris and Amsterdam trips sound perfect!

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TexasTravelMom and anyone else who is debating about Amsterdam or the Netherlands I’d say: go! I thought several times it would be a great entry to European travel for newbies.

RJ, I’ve been to the Anne Frank house before and will go again next time. I went to a lot of repeat museums but only the Rembrandt house seemed very familiar. Most of them have been ‘upgraded’ or had additions.

lavandula, I did find the exact tea towel I saw in Haarlem! I had a last minute brainstorm and went to the Amsterdam Tulip Museum and they had it. I didn’t do the museum part but they had a great gift shop.

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pbscd, I do have more travel on the agenda. My husband, who has gone on 2 of my previous 12 RS tours, Greece and London, picked out the Best of Germany tour and we are going in October. I’m in the process of trying to pin him down as to what, if anything he wants to do before and after. Back in the 80s we were in Germany for 4 years when he was in the Air Force. We loved it.

Completely different travel, this summer we are driving up to Fairbanks AK from Arlington TX, pulling a travel trailer and bringing Bailey our Lab along. Daughter, son in law and 2 wonderful granddaughters live there. We’ve done the drive 3 times since 2013 last time in 2022. Many, many miles.

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Pam, you get me. 😉. If it’s an art museum, I’m in and I loved the Rijksmuseum. I covered all of it before I was finished and of course every time I went I would swing by the Vermeers again. I was able to see 5 Vermeers this trip since I visited the 2 in The Hague. And of course the Rembrandts. Sigh. And they also had a choice special exhibit, called Metamorphosis and Stephen Fry did the English commentary, very nice.

As much as I love the Louvre, the Rijks was soooo easy.

I did go to the AH right by the Stedelijk and Van Gogh. There was an escalator down to get in, I never thought about it being under the Museumplein but I guess you’re right, it was! The nice folks at the hotel gave me a map with that location and the good restaurants I went to.