For those planning an Amalfi Coast getaway, I wanted to share a quick report of our recent family trip. Our favorite days were in Ravello and Capri, and while the views are as advertised, the logistics require some strategy.
The Quiet Charm of Ravello
After the frantic energy of Positano and Amalfi, Ravello felt like a different world. Perched high above the sea, it offers a much-needed breath of fresh air. The town is a picturesque maze of stone alleyways and vibrant flowers. We spent hours wandering the two main villas:
Villa Rufolo: Right off the main square, these gardens are famous for their Moorish architecture and the iconic view of the Annunziata church domes against the blue sea.
Villa Cimbrone: This requires a bit more of a walk through town, but the gardens are sprawling and lush. The "Infinity Terrace" at the end is a core memory—looking out over the Gulf of Salerno from that height is dizzying. We somehow got lucky and had the terrace to ourselves for about five minutes!
Logistics Tip: Don't rely on SITA buses if you can help it. The lines in Amalfi were insane, with people pushing and shoving just to get a spot. We tried to grab a taxi, but the driver quoted us €30 per person for a 15-minute ride, ignoring the official flat rate. We ended up sharing a van with other travelers. On the return, we found the Amico Shuttle for €15 (pre-bookable), which saved us the headache. I’ve also heard of people taking the downhill hike from Ravello to Atrani or Amalfi—it’s mostly stairs and takes about an hour, but it’s a great way to skip the bus drama if your knees are up for it.
Capri: Boats, Chairs, and Grottos
On Capri, we took a boat tour that intentionally skipped the Blue Grotto queue so we could spend more time swimming and seeing the Green Grotto and White Grotto. This was a smart move because it gave us about 5 hours on land to explore at our own pace.
Anacapri and Monte Solaro:
We headed straight to Anacapri for the Monte Solaro chairlift. It’s a single-seat lift that glides over gardens and vineyards for about 13 minutes. The 360-degree view from the summit is the best on the island—you can see all the way to the Faraglioni and the Bay of Naples. It felt much more relaxed than the crowded "Piazzetta" in Capri town.
The Blue Grotto by Land:
Since we had plenty of shore time, we took the bus from Anacapri down to the Blue Grotto entrance. By arriving by land, we only had two groups ahead of us and waited just 20 minutes. The water inside is an undeniable, glowing blue, and the rowboat operators singing in Italian added to the magic. However, the experience lasts maybe 3 minutes total. Be warned: our operator was quite aggressive about tipping, demanding €20 per person and getting rude when we didn't meet his expectations. It’s worth it for a short wait, but I wouldn't recommend it if you're facing the 2-hour lines common for those arriving by boat.
Planning Tools
Navigating the ferries and transfers can be a puzzle, but we managed by keeping our plans flexible. We booked our boat trip to Capri through Viator and used Waggl - Rome & Amalfi Coast for finding restaurants and coordinating our transfers, which kept everything organized in one place.
Summary:
Ravello: Visit both villas, but use the Amico Shuttle or consider the walk down.
Capri: Do the chairlift in Anacapri and visit the Blue Grotto via the land entrance to save time.
Transport: Ferries are your best friend; the buses are currently a battleground.
Has anyone else noticed the taxi drivers ignoring the fixed rates lately, or was that just our luck? Safe travels!