Please sign in to post.

Africa trip report

I just got back from four weeks in Africa, and I thought I'd share some highlights.

I went with an opposite-sex friend. We booked our safari with Wilderness. I can't even begin to rave adequately about them. The entire thing was a dream.

We flew Visa Aerobus from Guadalajara to Mexico City, and then Turkish Airlines to Istanbul and on to Cape Town. We booked four nights at the Dolphin Inn. Lovely place, great location. However, I thought I booked a room with two beds, and that's not what we got, so we ended up having to book a second room. They gave us one night free in the second room. I checked my booking confirmation email, and it didn't specify what room I'd booked, so I can't say for sure if the error was mine or theirs. So if you book there (and it's great, so you should), confirm with them which room you booked.

We did the Hop On Hop Off bus, which was really great. And we took a private tour to the Cape of Good Hope, which was also great. We did the free historical walking tour, which we enjoyed a lot. And we did a winery tour, which was enjoyable.

We booked our own flight to Maun, Botswana, and from there, everything was handled by Wilderness. We had three nights in each of three different camps. Two of the camps were upgrades we didn't have to pay for, because the original camps we booked at were undergoing maintenance. All three camps were fabulous; the staff, the food, the lodging, the facilities, and the wildlife excursions far exceeded my expectations. We stayed at Qorokwe first, then Pelo, and finally Duma Tau. We flew in small planes to airstrips near each camp.

After nine nights in Botswana, we flew to Kasane, where we were picked up and driven to the Zimbabwe border. Then we continued on to Victoria Falls. We spent two nights there at the Palm River Hotel. We had a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River the first evening, and a tour of the falls the next morning. After that we had plenty of free time to explore and go shopping in the town, and we got tickets that night to a show called Simunye, which was really good.

The next day we were driven across the border to Zambia and on to the airport in Livingstone. We flew to Lusaka (capital of Zambia), and Wilderness got us a day-use room at the Marriott Ciela Resort for our six-hour layover before heading on to Kigali, Rwanda. Unfortunately, our flight on RwandAir to Kigali was canceled, so we rushed back to the airport and were able to book a flight to Johannesburg and from there to Kigali, arriving at 7am the next morning instead of 9:30pm that night. Fortunately, that didn't mess up our plans, though we were operating on little sleep the next day.

Posted by
1924 posts

(continued)

That morning we visited the Genocide Memorial in Kigali. This was a powerful, deeply moving experience. You really come to understand what the 1994 Rwandan genocide was about from both historical overviews and personal stories. We only spend three nights in Rwanda, but this really illuminated the culture. Just 30 years later, so much has improved, and while there's still a long way to go, you really get a sense of how well the Rwandan people are moving forward. If you've been to Bosnia or know about what happened there, I recognized a lot of similarities.

From there our driver took us about 3 hour north to the town of Musanze. We stayed there three nights at The Bishop's House, an absolutely lovely property with a terrific staff and great food.

Our reason for going there was to do two treks in Volcanoes National Park. The first day we went to see the mountain gorillas. The second day we went to see the golden monkeys. All I can say is wow!

The next day our driver took us back to Kigali. We had time to stop at the Caplaki Craft Village before heading to the airport. Both here and even moreso in Victoria Falls, the vendors are quite aggressive, and you have to do a lot of bargaining. But they had a lot of nice local crafts (as well as some things made in China, no doubt).

We flew RwandAir to Nairobi. Our flight was delayed 3 hours. Between that and the earlier canceled flight, I don't recommend RwandAir!

That was the end of our Wilderness experience. We have friends (expats from the USA) who live in Nanyuki, Kenya, and they made all the arrangements for us for our time in Kenya. We spent the night at the Crowne Plaza at Nairobi Airport, and our friends arranged for a driver to pick us up the next morning and take us the 3 1/2 hours to Nanyuki, where we stayed with our friends.

The highlights of our time in Kenya were a visit to Ol Pejeta Conservancy and an overnight stay at the Elephant Bedroom Camp in Samburu National Reserve. You wouldn't think there'd still be new things to see after all the previous wildlife viewing we did, but it was awesome! Ol Pejeta is the home of the last two northern white rhinos in existence. They are both female, so the species is functionally extinct. Unfortunately, we didn't get to see them, but we did see some southern white rhinos and some black rhinos. And our guide told us that they saved some sperm from the last males of the species, and they are hoping to implant fertilized eggs into southern white rhinos and possibly save the species.

We flew home from Nairobi to Dubai to Houston on Emirates, and Houston to GDL on United.

Overall, this was an amazing trip. Certainly different from European travel!

I kept a journal which I'm transcribing into my blog, and I have a lot of photos online, but the rules of this forum don't allow me to include links. If you're resourceful, maybe you can find them. (Sorry webmaster, if this last bit is not allowed, feel free to remove it.)

Posted by
922 posts

Wow, Lane, that all sounds amazing! I found your blog. Love the pix of the lazy lion and the elephants, not to mention the penguins. I would love to see those in person! Great shot of the kingfisher too.

Posted by
4255 posts

Wow Lane is right, in fact double wow!!
When I read these trip reports and talk to friends who have taken safaris I get FOMO. You really make me want to go.
I’m going to go find your blog now and enjoy your writing and pictures.

Posted by
3560 posts

Lane, so glad you loved your trip, isn’t Africa fabulous? Now, like me, you will have to decide whether to go to Africa or Europe! I had heard that museum in Rwanda is very good, hope to get there someday!
Our mistake last time in 2022, was only going for 12 nights. Not nearly enough time!
I have a couple questions so will either PM you or ask on your blog.

Posted by
884 posts

Thanks for your report. I loved reading about your trip!

Posted by
5846 posts

Sounds like a fantastic trip!

When I went to Botswana (20 years ago), one of the three camps we were booked at was a Wilderness camp; it was definitely top notch!