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Adriatic OAT tour in progress, late May

I’m on the OAT Adriatic tour; we settled into the first home base in Dubrovnik tonight. Thirteen of us including the trip leader.

Temperatures are 15+ degrees higher than average in these parts. We’ve been wheedled about conserving resources and using our own water bottle. I’m overreacting to recent threads here on the forum about fashion and appearance by not packing anything in the colour black, other than socks (to go with my sandals).

Our first big overview meeting is in seven hours, and I got two hours sleep at most on the flight over here, yet here I am pecking at my tablet instead of sleeping.

The passenger jetways in ZRH are all clear glass. Waiting to board while everyone stows their stuff and gets out of the aisle is a geneva convention violation, I’m certain. I dress business casual on transit days, and I had to ask a Croat basketball player to let me hide in her shadow from the magnified rays of sunshine saunafying the jetway.

Even after watching a few videos about the not-Schengen to Schengen connection procedure for ZRH it was still a stroke of luck that I made it to the gate in time. It was not clear what to do and how to do it based on the signage. Two other tour members on the same flight told me at dinner that they didn’t even try, just asked someone to show them what to do. Why did I not think of that?

The ride in from the airport is already quite scenic. Driver spoke no English or French but some German, so his advice about walkable dining recommendations was hard to understand. The tour leader will distribute transit and museum passes for us in the morning. The old city walls are on our own time, not part of the local guides walk. They’re prolly fed up with the crowds plus the heat. I’m thinking I’ll save it for sunset later in the week.

More action reporting to come.

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Buffet dinner was great; plenty of local specialties to sample including veal patties and very tender pork and a couple of different fish, plus a few standard items for the less adventurous. Dessert included Turkish style pudding. One alcoholic beverage included.

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Our first full day has been terrific.

The RS best of the Adriatic and the Intrepid Cro/Slo tours are also staying here so there are three itineraries posted in the lobby, and much comparing and contrasting at breakfast time.

Our local expert is also a Dubrovnik native so we got much more than a recitation at this morning’s walk through the old town. And her mom will be talking with us later this week about the family’s experiences during the war.

During free time I went to the Rectors museum and the cathedral and the old port and the postage stamp size synagogue (which is not worth your E10 ticket but the gift shop is worth a short visit.)

Most of us went on an extra afternoon getaway with the leader to the Red History Museum by way of a mini ferry water taxi ride from one of his friends. Great to discuss the Yugoslavia years with someone who was here.

After dinner I wandered around in the dark on the uneven staircases and made some new cat and dog friends. Found a scooter shop that has the bikes that I am interested in.

Early departure in the morning tomorrow to get through the new biometric border requirements for Montenegro on the way to a boat ride around Kotor.

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802 posts

I did that same tour a few years ago and really enjoyed it. Where are you staying? We were at the Hotel Kompas in Lapad. Our guide was named Sanya.

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Only one dessert today, gelato from the local expert’s recommendation of Peppino’s, which is tucked away in a corner of a corner beneath the Dominican monastery museum.

Mixed seasonal berries. Yummy.

Oh, some Swiss chocolate too, but that doesn’t count.

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5003 posts

We visited the Red History Museum and my husband recognized everything there. We even have items in his parents’ apartment we could donate. We found his mother’s little red book with a list of all her volunteer work helping to rebuild Yugoslavia after WWII.
Enjoy the rest of your trip and keep posting updates.

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3971 posts

Avi, so happy to read/hear that you are traveling! I will follow along! Enjoy your tour!

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2300 posts

I’ve taken a few OAT trips and enjoyed them. I will be on the Rick Steves Adriatic tour in October. I’ve been there before but only for a few days. I’m looking forward to your posts.

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6476 posts

"Great to discuss the Yugoslavia years with someone who was here."

I love it, this sounds so right up your alley!

Glad to hear that your tour is off to a great start! Looking forward to hearing more.

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581 posts

So fun to follow you along. This is a part of the world I really want to visit. And love that you are getting close up with locals that can share first hand experiences.

Our local expert is also a Dubrovnik native so we got much more than a recitation at this morning’s walk through the old town. And her mom will be talking with us later this week about the family’s experiences during the war.

Most of us went on an extra afternoon getaway with the leader to the Red History Museum by way of a mini ferry water taxi ride from one of his friends. Great to discuss the Yugoslavia years with someone who was here.

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3414 posts

Today’s desserts included coffee cake, nicely decorated soft ice cream, and the classic pastry of Montenegro called krempita (or close to it) which is their variation on a napoleon or millefouille.

There was also a Croatian grappa that starts luv and ends with an ac, and a homemade limoncello.

On the way to Perast and Kotor we passed oysters and mussels farming in the brackish bay so the idea was planted that came to fruition at dinner even though we aren’t in an R month. Generous bowls of small garlicky mussels. And a steak made with a sauce of figs and honey!

A woman in Kotor told me that they’re sister cities with Santa Barbara. Their saint of the dark rocks reminded me of the way St Barbara is portrayed. Interesting.

Speaking of saints, the reliquary treasury of St Tryphon in Kotor was mind blowing. Between it and the rectors museum in Dubrovnik old town, I could fill the week. I do wonder if the academic history of religions community knows what they have here.

If today’s mega cruise party circuit passes by places with so much historical significance, I am more inclined than ever to put Mallorca on my future tour plans.

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12430 posts

Avi, it sounds like a great trip. Your food description is making my mouth water! I'm hungry anyway, but that's just making it worse. Enjoy, and I look forward to hearing more!

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There are pluses and minuses to group travel with any tour company, of course, but as of this fifth night on the OAT Tour the pluses are far outweighing the minuses for me.

The pace is intentionally efficient but we don’t run from one thing to the next, and even with a lot of well travelled participants, many still need a little coaching and guidance on good travel habits and outlook. At breakfast this morning, I heard the joke that OAT stands for old American tourists.
I’ve had a few shake-my-head moments but compared to the noisy louts stomping around in search of GoT selfie spots our group is doing rather well.

I hope that my inquiries about interesting drinks will inspire the local communities to put more effort into expanding beyond herbal grappa, cherry liqueur, and so so wine varietals. Already I have found a praiseworthy Istrian amaro and made sure that the wine bar understands that they have a hit on their hands.

Update: sections of the new tollway between Hungary and the Adriatic are open around Sarajevo, saving time already for vehicles coming up from the coast.

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508 posts

Your trip sounds wonderful. Love that part of the world. Would you be kind enough to share the name of the Istrian amaro? I'll be there in October and would love to try it.

Thanks

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The drink is listed just as an amaro istriano and I didn’t retain the mesero’s description of the origin.

Sarajevo seems like my kinda town (except for the smoking, and the room could do with a bit of polish) I like the streetscape and the range of denizens, from bearded and veiled conservative couples to football hooligans and barely dressed duck lipped poseueses

My sympathies to the shop owners trying to be positive and make a living.

I realize that I need to keep the brakes engaged on shopping and also now realise that vowing to only splurge on things I can use up now means that instead of adding to the weight of my Weekender I am adding to my waist and cholesterol count. Oops

Khaymak is my favourite new food discovery so far.

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5003 posts

Krempita is also claimed in Croatia (kremšnita) and Serbia. It’s my husband’s favorite dessert. I prefer šampita if you can try that one too.
And yes, kajmak is special. Another food item that is not the same in the US as much as they try to convince us. It is popular in Croatia, Serbia (they make it the best) and Turkiye.

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I'd really like to try and make the two-ingredient farmer's cheese that we helped concoct at the OAT day-in-the-life part of the tour in Karanac, but I don't know how to get milk that hasn't seen anything besides the inside of a cow in the last few hours. It is magical that some milk and rennet and a little warmth and stirring and straining can produce such a tasty cheese overnight.

At the other end of the spectrum, the gourmet gelato chain in Ljubljana called Vigo has a seasonal special of white chocolate with lavender and blueberries, which they will add a net of chocolate sauce upon for no additional charge.

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1866 posts

Wow, what a fun in-progress trip report, thanks! There was so much here I wanted to mention, but seriously, seasonal white chocolate ice cream with lavender and
blueberries!! YUM!

You mentioned the driver into Dubrovnik spoke some German, has that been something you've noticed on your trip?

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Apricots in the morning market in Rijeka were little balls of sunshine, and at our overnight farm stay in Karanac there was a cherry tree right next to my cabin to snack on.

Homemade homeopathic blends of various kinds are along the roadways in stands that reminded me of New Jersey when I was a kid. Freshly picked vegetables. Honey, too.

Seda is Croatian word for zimmer. Cars from up north with Vienna license plates park in unpaved lots next to old riverside homes and spend a week fishing and making their own riparian entertainments.

Older gent on the tram in Sarajevo asked me “Deutsch?” And we tried our best to chat anyway.

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567 posts

So many fun desserts and fruits!

I love conversations with others even if neither of them are using our first language. Some of the most memorable parts of travel.