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A Tuscan Joyride

Nine free nights in late April was enough to book a somewhat last minute trip to Italy with a favorite traveling companion, before the weather steamed up and the crowds descended. We’ve traveled to Italy together before, but she had never visited Tuscany, and I’ve been enough times to have no checklist of must-dos.

Flew direct on Delta from ATL to Rome, then jumped on a quick ITA flight to Firenze. Picked up our car arranged by my long-time go-to gemut.com and hit the road, destination Siena. I plugged an address into the Navi, and calendar-worthy scenery started rolling by almost as soon as we cleared the airport. It was a joyride under the Tuscan sun, even as I realized we must have circled and long passed Siena. We were booked at a B&B about 10 km outside Siena, and Navi continued feeding us directions, so we kept driving. (If we hadn’t been so mesmerized by the scenery, we probably would have realized we had long since overshot the 65 km from the airport to the B&B!)

Finally, the Navi drove us to a lovely country B&B, somewhere in Tuscany, just not in Siena and not ours! The very kind owner insisted on making us cappuccinos while we reconfigured the correct route to our B&B Palazzo Merse still an HOUR away! https://www.palazzomerse.it

Palazzo Merse, Sovicille

I’m writing this TR mainly as a shout-out to this amazing B&B, technically in the tiny hamlet of Sovicille. It was originally an 18th century building housing the mill workers. Today it houses two lovely sisters and their families, Nona (who cooks lunch every day for her entire family), and five pristine guest apartments. We had the spacious loft apartment, with a kitchen, a downstairs seating area with a contemporary gas fireplace, and French doors opening to the garden. The sofa is a sleeper, but they offered to put a comfortable single bed in the area behind the sofa to give us each our own sleeping space.

Breakfast was always wonderful: fresh bakery items, fruit and cheeses, perfect avocados, eggs cooked to order, and more. On a day the bakery was closed, Federica made us tiramisu, which we liked so much she made us the strawberry version the next morning. For dinner they sent us to delightful local restaurants in even tinier hamlets and to Hosteria il Carroccio in Siena for remarkable Bistecca alla Fiorentina. We requested a smallish one, approved the raw cut they brought out on a platter, then demolished the kilo+ of Chianina beef, grilled slightly past mooing - just as we like it!

Margherita our host was never farther than a quick WhatsApp call away when we were lost, needing a dinner reservation, or wanting reassurance that I really wasn’t invading the ZTL if I parked in Siena’s Il Campo lot! Having a friend/contact like this makes independent travel even easier. Our B&B was ideally situated for Tuscan road trips and we had six nights and six unhurried days to enjoy them. (You won't believe the low price for all this happiness!)

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Tuscan Highlights

Siena
On a spring week day, pleasantly uncrowded, with stress-free parking in a pay lot behind the soccer stadium near the Basilica Cateriniana. This Basilica, the Duomo, museums on the Campo, lots of walking, and a little high end ceramics and low end jewelry shopping made for a fun day. (We made a quick return stop on Saturday morning to pick up a piece of jewelry, and one of these trips was not like the other - shoulder to shoulder!)

La Foce Gardens
One of my favorite places, and very different in fall and spring. Purple wisteria and iris in full bloom now, and the distant fields of the estate are a patchwork of greens and yellow. Small group tours in English are offered several times a week.
https://www.lafoce.com/en/garden Make time to read Iris Origo’s war diary War in Val d’Orcia to see what one brave woman can accomplish.

Pienza
An easy uncrowded (weekday) stop on the way to the gardens, and the RS Tuscany guidebook maps out some best-of Tuscan drives of the area. (My brand new edition was painstakingly highlighted and annotated…and left in a seat pocket on Delta. Hoping somebody in gen pop who appreciated it found it.)

Firenze
Obviously too much to see in a day, but what a day it can be. There is now a parking lot with a tram into the city at Sandicci, on the south side of Florence, very easy coming from the A1 from Siena and nowhere near a ZTL. The tram ends at Santa Maria Novella train station, in the heart of Firenze. We had time for a leisurely visit to the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, just around the corner, before our timed-entry tickets to the Academia. Because this was last minute, I resorted to Viator to find tickets. Don’t be me; go to the official site and spend the money you save on gelato. https://www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.it/en/tickets

My favorite uncrowded museum is the Opera del Duomo Museum, with the Duomo’s treasures artfully displayed in its airy, contemporary space. You can buy tickets on the spot; everybody else must be at the Uffizi. We saw it all here before loosely following the RS city walking tour I downloaded to my phone. Gelato at Perchè No and perched on the banks of the Arno at sunset watching the rowers. Late afternoon Firenze is blissful.

We still had a drive home to Sovicille, and waiting til 8PM to start a wine-soaked dinner seemed not the best plan. It was getting dark by now, and we walked to nearby Mercato Centrale to see if there might be a quicker option in the upstairs food court. I didn’t have high expectations, but was pleasantly surprised to find it quite lively. The crowd skews young (but aren’t they all now!) Many appealing vendors. We passed the Bisteccas, pizzas, lampredotto, vegetarian, and plenty more before choosing mouth-watering porchetta sandwiches on crusty bread with spicy green sauce.

Easy walk back to train station to catch the T1 Leonardo tram line for the 23-minute ride back to the Villa Constansa parking lot in Sandicci. Filled with university-age students who get off at various stops…then all get off. As tram lights go out, driver says, as he leaves, what must be “Last stop. Get off.” So we do. Within minutes we are standing beneath the full moon on a totally deserted street where our car is obviously not. Best solution would be a taxi, but there are none of those either.

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It’s not a scary area - looks like a street of high-rise apartments - and we’re city girls (Atlanta, NYC, and several European addresses between us) but there is not a soul in sight. We can’t stand here all night, so we start walking… hopefully toward a busier street. Soon spot a young couple coming out of a building [hoping multi-lingual] and ask where we are. Of course he speaks English fluently! We are one stop short of the Villa Constansa lot, and the occasional tram does end here. The solution is to walk back to the tram stop and wait for a tram that is actually going to the end of the line where our car is!

This is REALLY an easy way to get into Firenze if you need to park a car! If I have unnerved you, please check out The Tuscan Mom website with explicit directions how to do it. https://thetuscanmom.com/how-to-park-outside-florence-and-take-the-tram-to-the-center

Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore (near Asciano)
This Benedictine Abbey and Monastery in the woods in the Crete Senese is a destination for slow travelers. First time here I arrived as the organ was playing the recessional and the gates were locking for the pausa. Next time I came for the mass sung in Gregorian chant but missed the artwork. Third time’s the charm! The fresco cycle by Luca Signorelli depicting St Benedict’s life covers all four walls of the portico - glorious and filled with double entendres by a painter who was beyond tired of working for a bossy abbot. Signorelli, the prankster, painted in harlots and a prominent horse’s rear, but you need some kind of guide to the artwork to figure it all out. Ours was too irreverent to be the official one; possibly it’s in the Tuscany book. It reads like something RS would write.

Pisa
My traveling buddy really wanted to see that tower, and I’m always up for revisiting the church in the Field of Miracles. Got the picture, and the bonus was watching a parade of magnificent horses, at least half Arabians. One rider had what looked like a wolf/dog quietly slung over the pommel of his saddle, something I never would have believed a horse would tolerate.

San Gimignano
A fine late afternoon stop on the way home from Pisa. Arrived for the very end of the gourmet food festival as the day crowds streamed out. Al fresco drinks on a piazza, so pleasant that we stayed on for dinner. Topped off with gelato from the famous spot.

Tuscan Joyrides
The best part that connected all the above dots were the drives though Tuscan countryside. We did a lot of that, backtracking some of our favorite stretches, with stops at road-side restaurants with busy parking lots and the occasional market, sharing longing looks at country properties for sale (most in semi-shambles but with great potential), and multiple stops for photo ops. Got some of our most expensive souvenirs there - three tickets so far from Buonconvento! May be more to come, but it was worth every mile!

Flying home from Venice because it’s easier than backtracking to Rome. Dropped rental car back at the Firenze airport and took the (SRO) T2 Vespucci tram to the train station to catch Italo train to Venice. Wedged in beside the ticket machine, I became the unofficial ticket validator for much of our tram car, using my one free hand that wasn’t hanging onto the overhead bar. Waiting for your train track to post at the last minute is always a little stressful, but once on board, Italo in Primo class is a pleasure and not much more expensive if booked enough ahead.

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Venice

Walking out the front steps of Venice’s Santa Lucia station directly on the Grand Canal always takes my breath away a little.This Sunday afternoon ending a holiday weekend, the crowds streaming back into the train station choked me a little too. We left peaceful Tuscany for this?? Down the front steps and turn left to the white ACTV building on the water to buy your multi-day vaporetto pass, faster than deciphering the ticket machine. Then turn right and walk along the water to the very last buildings to catch the Line 1 (many stops) or Line 2 (express) depending on where you’re going.

If I don’t need an apartment for a group, I stay at the Hotel Al Ponte Mocinego, a quick 50 meter walk from the San Stae vaporetto stop. Signs at the check-in desk indicated a RS tour group was also staying here. It may look a little out of the way on the map, but walking through the neighborhood to the Frari Church or San Toma piazza takes about 8 minutes. I like this hotel for their friendliness, the quiet neighborhood, the great breakfast, and the pristine spacious rooms. (They’ve been upgrading me on all my return visits.) www.alpontemocenigo.com

I was in Venice two months ago, and we were both here last spring, and with only two nights we had no hard plans at all. Our favorite chichetti stop Cantine del Vino Già Schiavi was closed on Sunday, but we found several more almost as good in the Dorsoduro before watching the sun go down over the wide Giudica Canal from the Zaterre promenade.

At one cichetti stop we talked with a weary American couple in a real predicament. Their apartment keys were in his other pants pocket locked in their VRBO apartment. Their rapidly dying phones had made contact with only bots, no humans, all afternoon. These were not green tourists, but seasoned travelers here for two weeks for their eighth Biennale, with the very bad luck to lose their keys on a Sunday! We suggested trying our hotel, which they found fully booked. Last time we saw them they were walking back through the Dorsoduro looking for a hotel nearer their rental. I would hope VRBO would do better than that!

Monday morning we woke to blue skies and NO crowds. No real plans, but a perfect start at the lovely green Campo San Giacomo minutes from our hotel, then to the Frari. Walked lots of peaceful back streets and the busy Ruga. Finally saw the contemporary art in the ancient custom house at Punta della Dogana. Breaking my heart a little that the Biennale is starting just as I’m leaving. A last dinner at an old favorite - Taverna San Trovaso. Closed down the dueling orchestras on St Mark’s before one last vaporetto ride home on the Grand Canal near midnight.

Tuesday morning, frantic start as we clearly under packed last night, and the scheduled water taxi who couldn’t reach the hotel water gate, is overbooked with Biennale arrivals and threatening to leave us if we don’t meet him at the San Stae dock RIGHT NOW. Equally frantic hoteliers trying to help us gather it all and run with our duffels down the street. Finally bouncing through the morning mist, watching La Serinessima fade into the distance, laughing hysterically as traveling buddy tries to get her bra on under her shirt. I have the BEST traveling friends, and another memorable trip is in the books! Ciao bella!

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I have so enjoyed reading about your joyful adventure. Thank you for sharing the feeling of your trip as well as the places and tips

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What a wonderful read! Thanks for posting about your adventures and for bringing such a great attitude when things did not go as planned! Your sprint to the water taxi brought up my worst nightmares of oversleeping before a flight!!! I would like to learn how to put a bra on, under my shirt, while running through the back streets of Venice. Clearly, this is a skill that might come in handy one day.........!!!!

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Sue, the bra incident was actually in the water taxi. He was hitting the waves so fast we were about to slide off the seats. If he had noticed what was happening in his boat he would probably have crashed into a pylon!

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Ha! It's very impressive regardless, whether running through the streets of Venice or while hitting the waves in a water taxi! With such skills, she most definitely sounds like an excellent and adaptable travelling companion!