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A few lazy days in Spain

We (husband, son age 20, myself) took a quick 7-day trip to Spain last month, based mainly in Cadiz, with overnights in Cordoba and Madrid. We only had a week because of work commitments, and I had vowed that come hell or high water our next vacation would be a return to Spain (third time for husband and son, fifth time for me), so we decided a short trip was better than none (even though some might say Andalusia in summer is a sample of hell....).

We had spent a few days in Cadiz during our last Spain trip in January 2022, and loved the town; just the right size for us, not too crowded, friendly people, slow pace, fantastic food (especially the seafood!), great for walking/chilling. There aren’t many “sites,” but we were looking mostly for downtime this trip and Cadiz was perfect.

Itinerary:
Saturday 6/27 – fly Burlington, VT to JFK, overnight to Madrid
Sunday 6/28 – land in Madrid, taxi to Atocha, train to Cordoba, arrive 3:30-ish
Monday 6/29 – 1 p.m. train to Cadiz, arrive 4-ish
Tuesday 6/30 – Cadiz
Wednesday 7/1 – rent car, day trip to Gibraltar, sleep in Cadiz
Thursday 7/2 – Cadiz
Friday 7/3 – 1 p.m. train to Madrid, arrive 6-ish
Saturday 7/4 – fly Madrid to JFK to Burlington

Arrival
Our plane landed at 09:30 in Madrid and we were outside at the taxi line by 10:15. Note that my son is disabled and uses a special needs stroller, so we were taken through a priority line to get through immigration. Our passports were hand-processed and we did not use the EES kiosks. We were at Atocha by 10:45, with plenty of time to grab breakfast at a nearby restaurant and catch our 13:35 train to Cordoba. Because of our first class train tickets, we had access to the Sala lounge at Atocha for the hour prior to boarding; this was sooooo much nicer than the hot crush inside the station.

Trains
I purchased all train tickets on Renfe’s website. Per my usual experience with Renfe, my first couple of credit card transactions worked flawlessly and the next,,,, did not. No apparent reason, the card just wouldn’t go through. So I used PayPal instead, which (as always) worked. I just never seem to remember to start with PayPal in the first place.

I have learned that first class train seating is easier to navigate when we are traveling with a mobility-challenged person and wrangling a stroller plus luggage. There are fewer people, the aisles are wider, and it’s just easier to stow the stuff and get to the seat without a crush. In most places, including Spain, purchasing tickets well in advance makes first class reasonably priced, so this is how we roll when we travel by train.

For the first time in Spain, I requested boarding assistance from Renfe when I booked the train tickets. My son can walk, but is slow and uncoordinated. We’ve done a lot of train travel with him throughout Europe, and while we can get him on and off the train ourselves, it always feels like there’s a time pressure to get on and get him to a seat before the train starts moving. We traveled in England last year and tried using passenger assistance for the first time; we found it a great help to have train staff right there to ease the time crunch for boarding and disembarking.

Our Renfe passenger assistance experience was good and we found it helpful especially for boarding. For getting off the train, often a single staff person was responsible for helping multiple passengers, so rather than waiting for the staff person, we just helped my son off the train ourselves. But it was still nice to know that we had plenty of time to get him down.

Our actual travel experience on the trains was fine. It did seem like the trains were a bit shabbier than our last visit, and pretty much all trains were late on the days we traveled (not just our trains, but all the trains on the board). But we got where we needed and did not have any unpleasant experiences.

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CORDOBA

We stayed a night in Cordoba only because the train connections meant that, if we had tried to go all the way to Cadiz on our arrival day, we wouldn’t get there until after 8 pm, and I just couldn’t stomach that long of a day after the overnight flights.

We arrived in Cordoba around 15:30. We stepped out of the taxi in front of our aparthotel in the Jewish quarter, and oh boy, it was HOT. Like, burst into flames hot. We knew it would be, but the reality was a kicker. The heat just radiates off the buildings.

Lodging: The apartment was fine, although there was a lot of noise from other guests that carried into our room. We had a one bedroom with a sofa bed in the living room for my son. It was OK for the one night but would have felt very cramped for any longer than that. The front desk staff was very friendly and helpful.

https://www.micasadelaceite.com/ (also available on booking.com)

During our short time in Cordoba, which was a return trip for us, we just walked; through the Jewish quarter, across the Roman bridge, around the Plaza Tendillas and by the Roman temple to see if the cats would be out in the sizzling heat (they were).

Food:
We had some good tapas and a glass of very good vermut at Taberna El Baron Rojo. My first time trying Mazamorra Cordobesa, a cold almond soup. Outstanding! Have since been making it at home, yum.

And a good, cheap breakfast at Café Viena.

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CADIZ

Last time we stayed in Cadiz, it was Christmas season and so much fun; parades, music, lights, decorations, nativities. We were curious if visiting in “normal” times would be as enjoyable.

It was!

This time it was summer, with its own pace and focus (beaches!). We were there during a heat wave, and daytime temps were in the low 90’s. The week before and the week after, temps were in the upper 70’s. But even during the heat wave, Cadiz was reasonably comfortable, with low humidity and a constant breeze.

We typically ventured out mid-morning for whatever we were going to do that day, then had a slow lunch outside somewhere around 1 or 2. After, we’d head back to the apartment to chill for a couple or three hours during the hottest part of the day while the town shut down for siesta (which is a very civilized way to handle the hot afternoons!). Most afternoons my son and I would head a few doors down from our apartment on Calle Ancha to the best gelato place ever, Pistacchio Verde (Persian gelato was on the menu a couple of days: ground pistachios, cardamom, SO GOOD). Then we would usually have a happy hour in our apartment with drinks and snacks, and then head out for an evening walk around 7.

El Paseo is alive and well in Cadiz. We loved our evening walks along Calle Ancha and the promenade, around Plaza Mina, the streets by the Central Market, a foot-dip in the ocean at La Caleta. People were out in droves; older couples arm-in-arm, younger families with kids in strollers, teens in small groups; everyone strolling, chatting, meeting friends, catching up. I just love this tradition.

Around 8:30 or 9:00, restaurants start opening up for dinner. Each night around 9 or 9:30 we’d wander in somewhere that looked good, have a leisurely dinner, then enjoy the walk back to the apartment, everyone still out and about, enjoying the evening. Most stores were open until 11 or midnight, and the gelato place closed at 2:00 a.m. At home, we are early birds. In Spain, we go with the flow and really enjoy the late evenings.

We didn’t do much “sightseeing” in Cadiz this trip. Many of the places/activities were repeats from our last visit, but still thoroughly enjoyable. Our wanderings included:

-- Touring the interior of the cathedral. It was interesting, though it doesn’t have the wow power of Toledo’s or Sevilla’s cathedrals, or the quiet beauty of Granada’s (which is my favorite). If you visit, be sure to go down into the crypt and view the exhibit about the shroud of Turin and the “mystery man,” which I thought was very interesting.
-- Walking the promenade and the Genovese gardens; so lovely. Played a lot of “find the parakeets” games, enjoyed watching the baby ducks in the pond.
-- Investigating the Central Market. Yum. Brought back lots of snacks to the apartment.
-- Riding the old-timey carousel in front of the cathedral. My son loved this!
-- Watching Spain defeat Austria in the World Cup, game start time 8pm. We went to a bar on Plaza Mina with an outside TV and chairs set up on the Plaza for viewing with drinks/food service. SO much fun! Tons of people out, kids running around everywhere, everyone cheering. Probably our favorite experience this trip.

Lodging: We returned to El Armador Casa Palacio on Calle Ancha. We love this place. We have stayed in the penthouse apartment both times, and it is lovely with its terrace and spacious two bedrooms, comfortable living space, and well-equipped kitchen (though we didn’t cook on this trip). There is also a very, very helpful front desk. https://elarmadorcasapalacio.com/ (also available on booking.com)

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CADIZ cont.

Food: We ate well in Cadiz. Aside from a very forgettable pizza experience outside the cathedral (we were starving), all of our meals were great to excellent. A few highlights:

Casa Lazo – just a very enjoyable dinner. The host and servers were all very nice, the menu is good, a very cozy atmosphere. I had one of the best grilled fish I’ve ever eaten, so simple with olive oil, salt, and pepper, perfectly cooked.

Hortensia – we ate tapas and they were outstanding. Octopus, tomato salad, croquetas. This is a really fun location in Cadiz with lots of restaurants lining the (shady) street and outside dining.

El Viajero del Merkao – just outside the Central Market. We came to grab some pre-dinner tapas and ate enough to fill us up. The seafood stew with garbanzo beans was great, as were the tiny fried prawns.

GIBRALTAR

We rented a car for one of our days in Cadiz and drove to Gibraltar, about 90 minutes away and a very easy drive. We rented through Hertz at the train station in Cadiz; seamless rental with easy pickup and return.

We parked in La Linea de la Concepcion, on the Spanish side of the border, in the parking lot essentially adjacent to the border station. We arrived at 10:30 on a Wednesday morning and there was plenty of available parking. The border crossing was simple and quick, maybe 10 minutes to pass through.

The cable car is under construction this year, so our only way to access the top of the rock with my son was to do a taxi tour. The signup booth is located immediately after the immigration process, in the same building. Cost was about $60/person. The taxis are vans that seat 7 people, and the taxi drivers are all trained tour guides. The tour lasts about 2 hours.

We enjoyed our tour. The guide didn’t give out much of an overview; there was some historical info communicated, but not a great deal. He was, however, great at answering questions and also very good at accommodating for my son, which we really appreciated. The highlight of the visit for my son was of course the monkeys, which are iconic and ridiculously tame. One jumped into our taxi while we were waiting at a stopping point, no doubt looking for food. The highlight for me was experiencing the top of the rock up close and the views across to Morocco; I really got a feel for the strategic importance of controlling that narrow stretch of water.

After our taxi tour, we were dropped off on the main drag in town and grabbed lunch at a pub. Truly a “meh” dining experience and a stark contrast to all the great meals we’d been having in Spain. I suspect Gib is so tourist-oriented that good food might be hard to find.

After lunch, we slowly wandered our way up the main street and back up to the border crossing. On the way, we had the very cool experience of crossing the airport runway on foot after waiting a few minutes for two planes to land.

We had a quick border process to exit Gibraltar and then walked back to the parking lot. The card reader for the payment kiosk was down, so we had to use cash to pay the parking ticket (the only time we needed cash on the whole trip). We had an easy drive back and were in Cadiz by 6:00 p.m.

We liked our trip to Gibraltar and are glad we went. It’s a unique place and I think worth a visit, though it is very, very touristy. If our son had not been with us, I think my husband and I would have enjoyed hiking more of the park on foot, but this kind of exploring is definitely not possible for mobility-challenged folks.

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MADRID

We took the train back to Madrid on Friday so that we could overnight there before the flight home. We’ve been to Madrid a bunch of times, so we weren’t trying to squeeze in any sightseeing. We arrived at Atocha around 6 p.m. and taxied to the hotel, located near the Plaza Mayor.

After being in the ocean breezes and seaside culture of Cadiz for a few days, Madrid was a bit of hot, steamy, crowded, city overload. We ventured out for a tapas crawl around 8, heading to the area around Calle Barcelona as suggested by our hotel front desk person. This was a nice area for our purposes, with quite a few bars, lots of outside seating, and everyone out and socializing on a Friday evening. We wrapped up with some ice cream at Eccolo Gelato (very disappointing after a week of eating Pistacchio Verde in Cadiz!) and a stroll through Plaza de Santa Ana, which is one of my favorite places in Madrid in the evenings.

Lodging: I like staying in Catalonia hotels; they have triple rooms, so all three of us can share a room.
https://www.cataloniahotels.com/en/hotel/catalonia-plaza-mayor

In the morning, we took a taxi to the airport for our flight home. We were through security in just a few minutes and then took the long walk out to our gate. We always allow extra time when flying out of Barajas – the airport really sprawls and it takes a while to get to some of the far-flung areas.

Our flight home was seamless from MAD to JFK, but thunderstorms caused our flight to Burlington to be delayed, and delayed, and delayed, and then finally canceled. This being the 4th of July, it was a bummer that we couldn’t see any fireworks from the airport; it would have at least made the waiting around (8 hours, yikes) more interesting! The flight was canceled late in the evening and we made the decision to just cough up a crap ton of money for the airport hotel rather than shuttling to a cheaper place. I’d never stayed at the TWA Hotel before – very interesting architecture, but the room itself was rather unimpressive, with a very noisy air conditioning system. Ah well, it was convenient and got us a few hours’ sleep before heading home Sunday. In the end, a rather low-impact delay.

We are glad we jumped this chance for even a short trip to Cadiz, one of our favorite places. It’s a bit of a grind to get there and back, but it was so worth it, and we arrived home jet-lagged and happy that we went. So, for all those out there who think they don’t have enough time to enjoy a vacation in a far-flung place with just 7 days, I say, go for it!