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A Brief Boo at Berlin

In September, I travelled solo to Berlin to attend workshops. Although I’d been to Munich and to Mainz, I had never been to Berlin, so I took advantage of the opportunity to spend a couple of extra days sightseeing.

I left Calgary on September 18, travelling first to Toronto, where I had a long layover. A friend picked me up at Pearson airport, and we went for lunch and a lovely visit, which passed the time nicely. I then boarded my Air Transat flight to Berlin. I travelled in Premium Economy, which allowed me to get some sleep, but because I was sitting by a (very nice) stranger, I didn’t sleep as well as I would have liked. I was tired when I landed in Berlin just before 11 am. I was glad I had booked a “Napcab” sleeping pod at Berlin airport, although I may have been able to check right into my apartment, had I asked the host. I fell asleep quickly and slept right until the alarm went off, a couple of hours later. I left the pod and set about finding the Deutsche Bahn train to Pankow Station, within a few blocks of my apartment rental. I had purchased a Deutschland Pass in advance and had it on my phone, so I didn’t have to think about getting tickets.

The train was jam-packed, so I had to stand for much of the 45 minute trip, but it was easy, otherwise. I used CityMapper to find my way to the apartment, stopping at a bakery to pick up some snacks on the way. I easily found the lockbox with the key, opened the building door, and hiked up the stairs to my 4th floor (5th floor in North America) home for the week. The climb wasn’t as bad as I’d feared, and the apartment was charming and homey. It had an entryway, bathroom with a tub/shower combo and a washer/dryer combo, a cute kitchen, a decent sized living room with a fun, hip decor, a huge bedroom, and a little balcony that overlooked the courtyard and could be accessed from both the living room and the bedroom. I loved this, especially as it was very, very hot my first few days in Berlin.

After I settled in and had a snack, I explored the neighbourhood a bit and bought some groceries. A little park down the street, outside an art school, had some folk art sculptures. At the end of the street, around the corner, was the Pankow Rathaus—a gorgeous brick structure. Across the street was a shopping mall where I found groceries and an ATM. (A tram stopped near here, and, if one happened to be coming when I walked to my workshops, I’d hop on it for a couple of stops.)

After a pasta dinner, I went to bed. The next day, I was meeting the two workshop instructors—one, the workshop host, a Berliner (although originally from Italy), and one an American, as well as the first instructor’s boyfriend, to tour some Berlin sights and go for a “typical” Berlin lunch. We met up at S+U Warschauer Straße and rode the train together to Alexanderplatz to see the world clock there, which was impressive and spacey-looking. A busker was playing “Bohemian Rhapsody” on a keyboard, and, as we do a group improvisational style of dance, and we all love that song, the two instructors and I danced together in Alexanderplatz. So fun!

We walked from there to the Oberbaum Bridge—a gorgeous, old brick structure with arches and turrets. Then we headed to the East Side Gallery: murals painted on the longest extant section of the Berlin Wall. Of course, we stopped for many, many photos along the way.

We crossed Museum Island, heading for lunch. We had a reservation at Treffpunkt. I ordered Berliner Bulette (meatball) mit Kartoffelsalat (potato salad) and was happy with my choice.

After lunch, we passed the Brandenburg Gate and the Berlin Rathaus, stopping to look at the Memorial to the Murdered Members of the Reichstag before heading to the nearest train station and parting ways for the evening.

Some roads were partially closed for a marathon, the day was hot and sunny, and there were many locals and tourists out and about enjoying the weather. It was a great introduction to Berlin.

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The next day, I was invited to visit the apartment where the workshop host and his boyfriend lived, to watch a movie and meet their two Norwegian Forest cats. Afterward, we all (minus the cats) headed to Jalla Jalla, a Middle Eastern Restaurant, where all the workshop participants were meeting for a welcome dinner. The food was great. I had Schisch Tawuk with tabbouleh, and it was delicious. The workshop participants included people from Poland, England, Hungary, Mexico, and Canada (me), as well as Germany.

My phone rang while I was eating dinner, and when I looked at the number, I saw that it was my dad and stepmom’s number. Because it was Sunday morning at home, and that’s when I usually talk to them (they live in a different city), I figured they had forgotten I was in Europe. After I left the restaurant, I listened to my voicemail and learned that my elderly dad had fallen and was in the hospital, unresponsive. Oh, no! I spoke to my stepmom but she didn’t know anything more at that point. I called my husband, and we discussed whether I should return. He was travelling to the city where my parents live in a couple of days for his aunt’s funeral, so he said he’d see my dad then and see what arrangements (e.g. for home care) might need to be made. I decided to stay for the time being, but be prepared to return, if need be.

The workshops were just past Pankow station, so I walked there the next morning. During the lunch break, I called home and learned that my dad was now responding. He had a concussion and some cracked ribs, but was otherwise okay. That eased my mind.

I attended workshops for four days, so I didn’t do any touring those days.

For my last day in Berlin, I had a list of potential sights to see. I decided to head first to Checkpoint Charlie. There was a short line of people waiting to take photographs at the checkpoint, so I joined the line. I offered to take photos of the couple in front of me, and they kindly stayed after they were done to do the same for me. I bought a fragment of the Berlin Wall and a Berliner Bear for my Christmas tree at the souvenir shop, and then I started to make my way to Schloss Charlottenberg. On the way, I saw some street art I liked, so I hopped off the train for a closer look and photos, and then hopped back onto the next one—one advantage of travelling solo; I could make a split-second decision without needing to discuss it. I had to transfer to a bus, and I had a bit of trouble finding the bus stop. It turned out to be around a very, very large traffic circle.

The palace itself was lovely, as palaces are wont to be, and I enjoyed exploring the rooms, especially the beautiful Golden Gallery and the Oval Hall, with all its mirrors and windows, which I had all to myself. Once I’d done the circuit, I realized I’d missed the vault and porcelain rooms, so I went back to those. When I tried to take the shortest route out of the palace from there, a very stern and officious woman insisted that I had to go back around through the other rooms I’d already seen, even though there were very few visitors there that day, and it would have inconvenienced no one had I cut through the one room between me and the stairs to the exit. Sigh. Such is Germany.

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I was hungry by then, so I popped into a nearby coffee shop for a sandwich and a hot chocolate, and I found a bench in the palace grounds, overlooking the river, where I had a lovely rest and lunch. I then explored the grounds a bit, making friends with a swan and visiting the mausoleum before I heading back to road to catch a bus to the Haus Schwarzenberg Street Art Alley. This is an alley filled with murals and stickers. The art here is always changing, but two constants that are never touched are the mural of Anne Frank and the mural of Otto Weidt (who protected his workers—blind and/or deaf Jews—from the Nazis during the Holocaust). On the sidewalk nearby, I spotted several Stolpersteine (stumbling stones), small brass plaques that commemorate the spots where victims of the Nazis lived before they were taken or killed. I had seen some of these in Pankow, as well, but hadn’t realized what they were.

I walked from here to Museum Island for a closer look at some of the buildings there. I stumbled across a wedding celebration, where a group of Arabic celebrants were dancing in the street with the bride and groom. So fun!

My feet hurt and I was tired and hungry by then, so I took the streetcar back to my apartment, ate dinner, showered, and packed for my flight to Paris.

The next day, there was a problem with the computers at the airport, so it was busier than usual. I had a flight booked with Transavia, a discount airline. Based on my boarding pass and the information boards, I thought I had to drop my bag at the main terminal and that my flight would leave from there. I wandered around, trying to find the right bag drop, unsuccessfully. Finally, I realized that I had to go to a smaller terminal adjacent to the main one. When I got there, it was a mob scene. None of the boards or the signs had information about my flight or Transavia. There were bag drops for Ryan Air, but when I checked those, that was the only airline that showed up on the screens. There was a very, very long lineup waiting for the manned kiosks, but there wasn’t any staff at the kiosks, and the signs above them were blank. I finally decided that that had to be my lineup, so I stood there. Eventually, a man behind me had a telephone conversation that made me realize he was on the same flight as me, so when he finished his call, I asked him how he knew this was the right line. He was guessing, too! Anyway, after we’d waited a while, he said he thought my bag would be allowed on board, so I decided to chance it. I went through security, which was another mob scene, and then went to find my gate. My gate was downstairs, but none of the elevators were working, so I had to lug my stuff down the stairs. There was no staff there, so I went and sat in a chair by the windows. Nobody else was sitting there. Shortly afterward, this being Germany, a Transavia agent came along and gruffly ordered me to go stand in the more crowded area. A little while later, he set up a rope and started checking boarding passes. Anyway, once I finally boarded the plane, the flight was fine, and I was looking forward to seeing Paris again after more than 15 years.

Photos: https://www.amazon.ca/photos/share/3EVf4HCjVVJ4LCORumukVhATk1gOOLPjVgA9lk0YRWK

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BB, thanks for the great trip report! It sounds like you had a good experience in Berlin, although that was a shame what happened to your dad. I hope that he's doing okay now. That must have been scary.

And then to have to deal with the airport mess—yikes. I've had issues at the Berlin airport before, and it has been every bit as chaotic as you described. It's still not as bad as CDG, I don't think, but it could be close. 😂

I loved that you all danced to Bohemian Rhapsody! That's such a wonderful song.

ETA: I loved the photos too! Especially the Berlin street art.

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Mr É, the visit was brief. The trip report? Not so much. :D

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Thanks, Mardee. My dad is 91 1/2, and he's fallen twice since then, but he's very stubborn and refuses to go back to the hospital again or to use a cane. A week after my dad got out of the hospital last fall, my stepmom ended up in the hospital for 2 months with a collapsed lung from pneumonia. At their age, these kinds of things are going to happen more frequently, I fear, but they still want to live independently. Last weekend, my husband and I had new flooring put into their condo, as their very old carpet was stretched and wrinkled and was a trip hazard. We put on a toilet frame to make it easier to get on and off, and, previously, I had sent a bed rail to keep my stepmom from falling out and to help her get out of bed. (She has "foot drop" from hip surgery a decade ago, and can't walk---uses a walker or wheelchair.) But, for now, they are hanging in and doing better than they were a few months ago.

I forgot to say that the train was delayed going to the airport, and so it was very crowded and chaotic, as well. So, by the time I even reached the airport, I was already stressed about making my flight. (I found transportation in Berlin to be more challenging and less punctual than in many other European cities.)