7 (and a half) days solo in Valencia

Getting there: and How I Ended up with Seven (and a half) days of Sightseeing

I had booked a very nice flight on Sunday at 2pm to Valencia, including my favorite seats. I was lucky in dodging various Lufthansa strikes. Until I wasn't. The morning that I would have checked in to my flight, I saw Mark's notice on the forum of a new Lufthansa pilot strike, which fell on my travel dates. With Lufthansa strikes popping up everywhere, it was bound to happen.

Lufthansa wasn't much help - their website said they would send out emails on Sunday morning to affected customers. I needed to sort things out before then! United had waivers in place to change/cancel flights. Speaking to them, I decided my best option was a 7am flight through Brussels instead of Frankfurt. That's 7am tomorrow morning! The trains don't run early enough to get me to the airport for a 7am flight, so I dashed around to get myself ready, finish the last minute tasks and get myself to the airport in time to get through security so that I could spend the night near my gate.

The bad news is that I lost my Polaris upgrade (United has already refunded the cost.) The good news is that I arrived 5 hours early in Valencia. So instead of 7 days in Valencia, I had 7 and a half!

My Hotel: Petit Palace de la Reina

This could easily be a Rick Steves hotel: small, centrally located hotel with incredibly responsive staff. Restaurants were right out the door, the Cathedral a block away. They have typical European breakfast of breads, meats, cheeses, yogurt, cereals, machines for coffee/cappucino, etc. Great storage in the room. Individually controlled mini-splits for heat and A/C.

My room had a good sized balcony, which didn't have the greatest view (I had seen the photos, it wasn't a surprise) but it was nice to enjoy the fresh air at the beginning and end of my sightseeing days.

Valencia 7 Day Tourist Card

I "did the math" and bought the Valencia 7 Day Tourist card and saved about 4 euros: not a fortune, but it also saved having to pull out my credit card at some places. The Tourist Card does not save you from standing in lines, which were none or minimal in April. Except the Cathedral, where I waited to visit until I saw that there wasn't much of a line.

I bought my Tourist Card at the TI in the airport arrivals hall. You can also buy the card online, saving €1.5, and pick it up at the airport or have it delivered to your hotel.

https://www.visitvalencia.com/en/valencia-tourist-card

Valencia Transit Card

I walked most places, but with 3 planned uses of transit, the simplicity of the metro Valencia SUMA card was also a savings.

I took the metro to and from the airport (incredibly easy) so I chose the SUMA 10 AB+ card, which gives you 10 rides and includes the airport (+) zone. It also includes Manises and the beaches.

The 24/48/72 hour versions of the Valencia Tourist Card include unlimited transit (with the airport zone) so consider those for a shorter stay. This also allows you to skip the machines for the transit cards, which had very long lines when I arrived back at the airport.

Validation tip: it's obvious how to validate on the metro (at entry and exit fare gates) and on buses (at the machines on board.) For trams, you validate your ticket at little machines BEFORE you board the tram. There are no validation machines on the trams, as I learned!

Metro Valencia Transit website tip: I just remembered that I was never able to get to the Valencia transit website. I even tried setting my VPN to Spain. Eventually it worked, by setting my VPN to France! Go figure.

What I Did

My usual planning sources (namely Rick Steves guidebooks and a tourist website) weren't much help with Valencia. I almost gave up on the trip, until I asked AI to suggest a slow-paced 7 day itinerary. Then off I went!

Food Tour - I am particularly glad that I booked this food tour for my first day in Valencia as I had had a difficult time finding restaurants with things I could eat. The food tour gave me insights into places to eat, foods to try, and expectations for meal times. For example, if you go to a restaurant at (say) noon and ask if they are serving lunch, they may well say no, until 2 or 3 pm. But they still have tapas and small plates!

Valencia Cathedral - free with 7 day tourist card, including the audioguide, with helpful pointers for things I might have otherwise missed. There was often a line to enter, which the tourist card doesn't allow you to bypass. I checked occasionally and visited when the line was minimal. Those lines might be long in peak season.

You can sit in the chapel where the Holy Chalice is displayed and spend as much time as you want. In any other city, you might have to shuffle past to get your 20 second glimpse. In total, I was in the cathedral 2 hours, twice my usual. I did (quietly) WhatsApp my Mom so that she could see the chalice.

Museum of Ethnology (free) - there are 2 wings to this museum. As you enter, the "prehistoric" displays are on the right. The Ethnology Museum is on the left. That ethnology wing is my favorite ever of this genre! The displays are so thoughtfully curated.

Pro tip: be sure to enter the Museum of Ethnology via the staircase off the main entrance, not the back way through the prehistoric section of the museum. Entering through the front, you can pick up the explanatory leaflet, which made a world of difference for me in understanding the exhibits.

San Nicolas Church - called the Sistine Chapel of Valencia, the (15-20 min, at the top of each hour) immersive light show highlights the features of the structure and decoration. If your timing allows, listen to the audio circuit first, which helped me understand the elements that the light show was highlighting. Or, as I did for fun, watch the light show twice, both before and after the audio guide.

City of Arts and Sciences / Museum of Science - The Museum of Science might be great with small children (lower floor) or teens (upper floor.) I usually like this sort of museum (I loved the technology museum in Milan.) This one didn't engage me. I did not book ahead, just walked in and bought my ticket at the kiosks, small discount with 7 day tourist card.

The best part of the visit to the City of Arts and Sciences was wandering around the complex, admiring the architecture. It's one thing to have seen it as my flight landed, and quite another to wander around it. The rooftop garden above the large parking structure is also interesting. I didn't go to the aquarium (Hemisferic) which I'm sure is fabulous!

Museo de Bellas Artes - free, a bit of a walk from Old Town. I like to find a new artist in each city's art museum. Whereas I found 3 at the art museum in Bucharest, and couldn't tear myself away, no such luck here. I do love how the 2nd floor of the museum allows you to overlook the enormous art in a gallery on the ground floor.

What I did (part 2): Smaller Museums that took 30-90 minutes each

Benlliure House Museum - my favorite of the small museums, it felt like I had the place to myself. Don't miss the Painter's Studio at the back of the garden, and the garden itself. I had it all to myself, sat on a bench to enjoy the quiet and pretended it was mine!

Silk Museum - a nice way to understand the importance of the silk trade in Valencia, which also puts the Lonja de Seda in context.

Tip: after the audioguide directs you downstairs and into the shop, don't miss the door into the room with the looms.

La Lonja de Seda - free on Sunday (except audioguide); the architecture is worth the visit.

Fallas Museum (Museo Fallero) - this entertained me more than I expected. It houses the best of the Fallas entries from each year of the festival. It was interesting to read the theme of each "winner" (by popular vote) in context of the city at that time.

Museo del Corpus (Casa de las Rocas) - free; I might have spent 30 minutes, in a quick wander through. For a Valencia cultural insight, I would choose the Fallas Museum over this one. If you're on your way to the Benlliure House Museum, you might as well pop in.

Audio Guide tip: the museum/church audio guides had plugs for headsets, but do not provide them. If you don't want to hold the audio device up to your ear for an hour, bring your own wired headset.

I didn't book anything ahead except my Flamenco evenings, one of which sold out.

• Not the Valencia Cathedral with its treasure of the Holy Chalice
• Not the Sistine Chapel of Valencia, with its hourly illumination show
• Not the Museum of Science, though booking the Hemisferic (acquarium) might be advisable.

Of course, this was In April.

A Day at the Beach

The beaches at the edge of Valencia are stunning! Wide stretches of soft sand. I dipped my toes in, so I can tell you the water is chilly. The beaches are free and open to the public, no chair or umbrella rentals that I could see. Beach walking vendors will sell you a beach blanket, cerveza, water or a kite. I went to Malvarossa Beach which has lots of nets set up for volleyball. I walked past those to find loads of open space.

Transit to the beach: there are a gazillion ways to get to the beaches and back, pick one that's easy from your hotel. Buses sit in traffic, metro and trams do not, Avoid buses in the center of town during busy traffic.

I had lunch and a light dinner at two beachside restaurants. Prices were surprisingly fair, about the same as in the city center.

I am not normally a beach person, but this was a relaxing day away from the city center!

Spanish, with an Italian Accent

In Mexico, our tour guide said that I speak Spanish with an Italian accent. I took that as a compliment - to my Italian, not my Spanish. This trip, the TSA type guy at Valencia airport was giving instructions and asked if I was Italian because he said I spoke Spanish with an Italian accent. Now that they've said it, I can hear it myself and it cracks me up - since I'm not a native Italian speaker!

In a restaurant in Manises, the server and the chef were placing bets on whether I was Italian or American. The server asked me to help them resolve their bet. I laughed and said they were both right, that I'm an American with Italian heritage who speaks Spanish with an Italian accent!

Restaurants and Food

I had a hard time researching restaurants. I think that's because I didn't understand the dining culture in Valencia - similar to most of Spain, but I didn't really "get it." Our Food Tour guide explained it all and made it much easier for me to know what food to look for at what time of day.

I never really found a favorite restaurant, although there were a couple that I went back to a few times. My fallback restaurant was "Gran Mercat" (from our tour) where I could happily eat their grilled artichokes and choose from a few flavors of croquettes. The restaurant ES.paella (a chain, I believe) was very near my hotel and I could get the same things there. They also will serve paella for one, which isn't always the case. So I was able to try it, though I don't recommend that as the place to get a really good paella.

As much as I love visiting Spain, it's not the best country for me to eat. Greece and Bulgaria, with their salads and grilled meats are much better for my stupid dietary requirements. (Annoyed.)

Oh, ice cream! My favorite flavor is still avocado ice cream in Mexico. But the Luccianos Chocolate (with little chocolate crunchy bits) ice cream - at Luccianos on the Plaça de l'Ajuntament - is divine! So now that's my second favorite! And the shop is fun, especially for kids and kids at heart.

Day Trip to Manises (for Ceramics)

In Bucharest, we visited Horezu, a town known for family-run ceramic businesses. Each family runs the business out of their home, with a garage or workshop or kiosk where they sell their homemade goods.

Nothing like that in Manises. The town had several ceramic factories, which the Ceramics Museum tells the story of. Apart from that, the town is the museum. Wander around to see its "exhibits" - like the facade of the Tourist Information center (across from the train station) and the facade of the main market. On a main street through town, there are handpainted ceramic panels that tell the story of the history of ceramics in Manises. There is a Cultural Center that (if it's open) has a small selection of beautiful pieces. And one workshop has a store that sells a lot of handpainted panel scenes.

It's an easy 30 minute ride on the metro, nearly back to the airport. It makes for a nice break from the city center. As nearly as I could tell, I was the only tourist in town that day.

Placeholder Numero Uno - ok, I'm going to give you a break, nothing to read here! For the moment, anyway ;-)

No Mudéjar Architecture

I love the Mudéjar style, with its elements of arches, intricate brickwork patterns and decorative motifs. I didn't see that in Valencia.

Our food tour guide told us that Valencia wasn't interested in keeping those visual reminders, after the Reconquista. The audioguide tour of the Valencia Cathedral brings you through some of the archaeological foundations of Roman and Islam structures. But Valencia isn't the place to see the Mudéjar style, merging Islamic and Christian artistic and architectural traditions.

Fill in those placeholders -- enjoying your report!

When I visited (coinciding with Chani) the Chalice was in the Museo de Bellas Artes, not in the Cathedral. Hmmm... Makes me wonder what else gets shifted around.

I absolutely loved Valencia when I visited a couple of years ago. We were there in August and also don’t book anything ahead of time. It wasn’t necessary. The only busy place was the Aquarium, as you’d expect when children are on school holidays.

Me, me! I’m going! I only have 5 nights, though, so I will pick and choose from your sights. Thanks for all the practical details (as always)!

Thanks for the excellent trip report! Good for you for all that pre-packing work you must have done so you could get out the door & to the airport the same day. Did you actually snooze by the gate overnight?? I especially enjoyed hearing about Manises. I loved walking around Sevilla gazing in through elaborate gates at tiles on the walls....

In a restaurant in Manises, the server and the chef were placing bets on whether I was Italian or American. The server asked me to help them resolve their bet - That’s so funny, you got to make them both happy! This sounds like a great place to go for a week, most appreciated!

avirosemail, that's so interesting that the chalice used to be in the museum. The cathedral is more central and brings revenue, whereas the museum is free. I did like its setting in the altar of its display chapel. A disadvantage is that you can't see it very well, and not in detail, from the distance.

Thank you for your excellent trip report! Well done!

Happy travels!

Helen, glad to know of another traveler who loved Valencia!

Your comment about school children at the aquarium is interesting. I saw half a dozen big buses, two of which were loading up students leaving the area in the early afternoon, when I arrived. It's an interesting tip to consider going later, after those large groups may have left.

TexasTravelMom, happy to give you my best shot at a mini guidebook! I took a few notes for you while I was there.

Your five days will be plenty of time. I spent a lot of time walking, because I had the luxury of time. I walked to and from the City of Arts and Sciences to see more of the city of Valencia along the way. A bus would have done nicely to go there and back. I did take the bus+tram to the beaches, which are further.

Thank you, David!

Sandancisco, I did snooze at the gate a tiny bit. They were some soft seats elsewhere, but I didn't want to risk sleeping through my new departure!

You might love a stroll around Manises! Tiles are everywhere. After a while, I stopped taking pictures. They're in doorways, on shopfronts, here and there and really everywhere. The restaurant where I had lunch (Kayre Gastropub) had tiles on the lower walls like wainscotting. It's so everyday for them, the tables were just pushed up against them. The museum was interesting, but really the town is the showpiece for what they used to make in the factories.

Another fine trip report as usual and good resources for future travelers. Glad you had a good time!

You might love a stroll around Manises! Tiles are everywhere. After a while, I stopped taking pictures. They're in doorways, on shopfronts, here and there and really everywhere. OMG, that sounds like something I would love! And the less touristy atmosphere would also be very appealing.

Thank you, CWsocial, for the wonderful trip report! Lots of great details & so nice to read about a city off the main tourist routes.

I recognize Luccianos for gelato! It’s the place I go when I’m in Malaga. : )

I think I’ve mentioned to you that I’m not planning to go to southern Spain next February since I’ve been three years in a row. How would you compare Valencia with your time in Sevilla, Malaga, Cordoba, Cadiz?

Oh, one note - the Sistine Chapel of “Valencia”. It currently says “Venice” in your details. Wow, that does look amazing!

Sounds like you had a nice time! Thanks for sharing!

Catherine, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed Valencia! It truly is a beautiful city and quite different from other cities in Spain. Did you get a chance to try the Valencian horchata?

take a "day trip" to the nearby ceramic town of Manises

oh boy! Sounds like a hard day out for CWsocial.... oh yeah......

. somebody has to do it I guess

Thank you, CL and Tammy! Committing an entire trip to a city is risky. This one paid off!

Sounds like a hard day out for CWsocial.... oh yeah......

Nigel, you know me so well! I might have brought my collapsible backpack with me to Manises, where I bought a large plate that just fit. It looks lovely on display! And I might have picked up a few other things in Valencia!

It truly is a beautiful city and quite different from other cities in Spain.

It certainly is quite different from the cities in Spain that I have been to. They really seem to be trying hard to make it beautiful, and practical for residents. The architecture around the old town is stunning. I read that they've done a lot to plant trees to keep it cool in summer.

"Did you get a chance to try the Valencian horchata?"

I did try it, on our food tour. I only had it that one time, but loved it!! I tried it at Horchateria de Santa Catalina with our food tour. I would have gone there myself, otherwise, because you had suggested I stop by. I would drink Horchata and Sangria every day, if I could!

As you know, the Santa Cataline Horchateria is beautifully decorated with an elaborate ceramic facade, uniquely painted for the center of Valencia, depicting the two bell towers visible from its doorway. And the inside, wow! Looking at the photos on Google Maps, I should have gone back after our food tour for a better look.

Jean, judging from my flight, the tourists were from Europe. Definitely England. And I heard a lot of Italian! When I (regularly) slipped in to Italian, many of the shopkeepers, restaurant staff, and even the manager at the Flamenco show, conversed with me in it.

I recognize Luccianos for gelato! It’s the place I go when I’m in Malaga. : )
Oh, this is REALLY good to know. I'd like to get to Malaga and I will certainly have that Lucciano's chocolate ice cream again!

Oh, one note - the Sistine Chapel of “Valencia”. It currently says “Venice” in your details. Wow, that does look amazing!
Thank you, fixed. And Yes!

I think I’ve mentioned to you that I’m not planning to go to southern Spain next February since I’ve been three years in a row.
Yes, you have. Perhaps you consider Valencia sufficiently east to give it a try!

How would you compare Valencia with your time in Sevilla, Malaga, Cordoba, Cadiz?

I can't compare to Malage or Cadiz, which are both still on my list for Spain. While I was in Valencia, I was comparing it to Seville, which I also love. I was worried that Valencia wouldn't stack up. In Valencia, I missed the Moorish architectural influences of Sevilla, but I love the Gothic and Baroque influences of Valencia. Those felt like the Spanish architecture of the cities I visited earlier this year in Mexico. The intertwined Gothic and Baroque architecture and decorations in the Valencia Cathedral and the Church of San Nicolas are sublime!

I'd like to take an architecture tour in Valencia, to understand this better myself!