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6 day stopover in Istanbul

My husband and I just returned from a 2 week trip to Vietnam that included a free stopover in Istanbul on the way back. We took Turkish Air to Vietnam and the airline offers free stopovers in Istanbul and I highly recommend taking advantage of this generous program. In fact, my 4 previous visits to Istanbul all occurred as stopovers on my way to or back from somewhere else. This was my husband's first time and he wanted to prolong the experience so we opted for a 6 day stopover. I detest connecting flights as they are too stressful for me. If the first flight gets delayed, you run the risk of missing your next flight whereas a long layover, especially if you're allowed to leave the airport, makes things much better for me so taking advantage is a no brainer.

Personally, I like the New Town part of Istanbul better as a base than the Old Town. Yes, the Old Town is for all the biggies like the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market, The Mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent, etc... However, because the Old Town has all the biggest tourist attractions, it also has the most tourists and those who prey on tourists. I find the prices of food and drink to be higher on this side and find shopping isn't as straightforward as in other parts of the city. Also, the Old Town will present to you many handsome Turkish men who will flatter you, ask where you're from, and invariably try to get you to buy a carpet, come into their store, restaurant, or any other such thing as to sell you something. This doesn't happen in the New Town.

We stayed in the New Town, very close to the Galata Tower. I like this area as it's very lively at night whereas the Old Town gets quiet after 6pm when the tourist attractions close down. In the New Town, you're likely to get few to no aggressive sales pitches and more transparency in pricing. It's just a different vibe.

Public Transit in Istanbul is among the best in the world. It's easy to use, is safe, fast, and clean and will take you wherever you want or need to go. With the Istanbul Kart, sold at yellow kiosks in or near all the public transit stations, instructions come in many languages, and it's easy to use and top off. For pennies a ride, you can get anywhere in the city.

My top tourist attraction in the city is the Mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent. It rivals the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia but is better because it gets far less tourists and the views of the city from the grounds are truly stunning. Of course, you must check out the Blue Mosque because it is incredible, but unfortunately, it's so overwhelmed by tourists, it'll be hard to take in the grandeur, but at least it's free so no risk of losing a large chunk of money to get in. Hagia Sofia is not worth the cost and time to get in. It used to be before it was turned back into a mosque from a museum. Back then, it was one of the most magnificent man made sites in the world and worthy of all the accolades heaped upon it. Now that it's a mosque again, visitor areas are sharply reduced which is strange as visitors are allowed in all the other mosques in the city as long as it's not during services, but for some reason, the first floor of Hagia Sofia is off limits to all non muslim visitors. Also, it's covered inside and out by scaffolding and because it's a mosque again, some of the Christian iconography is blocked. The worst part is the ticket sellers will induce you to buy the very expensive combo ticket that includes admittance to the museum for about $60 USD per person when all you need is the ticket to the actual Hagia Sofia. Still expensive and still disappointing compared to how it used to be, but at least you'll only be out $30 USD.

I could go on and on about my trip, but I see I'm getting close to my maximum length and will be cut off soon. If you go, and I hope you do, Rick's Istanbul book is a godsend and I promise will make your stay as good as it can get. Do all the walks.

Posted by
4558 posts

Thanks for sharing your experience. I too enjoy Istanbul, but I have been there only twice. The first time was in 2024. The Hagia Sophia was the highlight of that trip. We hired a guide for a couple of days in Istanbul, and we started the first day at the Hagia Sophia, jumping in the ticket queue about 30 minutes before opening time and entering as the first visitors of the day. It was pretty amazing to see it empty. As our time there progressed, the crowds started rolling in, but that first 15-30 minutes was a treasure of an experience. And the history that has happened there? Pretty amazing.

Posted by
2243 posts

We loved Kadikoy and if going again. We’d stay across the strait from the old city. And lokum or Turkish delight is addicting. We brought home boxes of the pistachio lokum. Sadly the ones in our local Turkish and Middle Eastern stores here as not as good.

I just read the US is ordering all diplomats out of Saudi Arabia due to the spread of the war. This isn’t a safe time to go to Egypt.

Posted by
5 posts

Thanks for sharing, Heather! Kadikoy was one of my favorite stops this trip. One day, I decided to do Rick's Asian side walk. I took the subway from Sishane, transferred to another line under the Bosphorus and arrived in Uskudar and started the walk. I had some delicious, hot out of the oven baked goods from a bakery in the market, got a Turkish shave, visited a mosque and then hopped on a mini bus over to Kadakoy and had the best time. I got lunch at HD Iskender where their specialty is the Iskender Kabob, consisting of fresh bread as the base, layered with kebab meat, covered in tomato sauce with a generous scoop of yogurt on the side. After delivering to your table, they come around with hot butter to pour over. Sublime. Afterwards, they offered a free cup of tea and I gladly accepted. From there, I got some more baked goods as I continued on Rick's walk. I guess I was in the mood for more sweets because later I stopped at a cafe for some hot Kunefe and a Turkish coffee. The best part was shopping at a local handicraft market where I picked up some gorgeous handmade bowls, nice soaps, and other trinkets for a fraction of the price of the shops on the European side. I had a true Rick Steves moment with my experience in the store. The shop owner indulged me as I tried to communicate in Turkish, but realized we'd get farther if we spoke English and we have a fantastic conversation about some real subjects. She asked where in the States I was from and when I told her, she asked me if I knew of a particular chef and I did! I let her know I went to one of the chef's restaurants for my anniversary dinner a few months ago and how I can walk to another of her restaurants. It was wild to make the connection as this chef spends a lot to time in Kadikoy. After perusing the markets some more, I stopped by the historic Aziziye Hamam for the full Turkish bath package of a scrub, foam, and massage, again, at a fraction of the European side prices. After a great day of exploring Asia, I hopped on a ferry over the Bosphorus to Kabatas, then jumped on the funicular to Taksim, transferred to the Metro and back to Sishane to meet up with my husband. What a great day! I traveled from Europe to Asia and back again and never left the city. Kadikoy and Uskudar show a side of regular workaday life in Istanbul. You won't see many tourists but you'll see real life and as is often the case, get treated to wonderful Turkish hospitality. All my transports were covered by my Istanbul Kart except for the minibus, but like Rick says, ask your fellow passengers for help and you'll be fine. As it was, the price was 50 TYL, about $1.15 USD to get from Uskudar to Kadakoy.

Posted by
5 posts

Hi Dave. I'm glad you had a great experience at Hagia Sofia! And I hope others can follow your lead. Had I not visited before the change from the museum back to the mosque, I probably wouldn't be as disappointed as I was. It was still incredible, especially with Rick's guide of the highlights and that helped us notice things we otherwise may not have.

Posted by
7911 posts

We did similar for the Hagia Sofia. We got to the entrance about a half hour before opening. We paid for the mosque only, not the virtual reality museum. When we entered, the place was empty. I recommend walking around what is essentially a balcony and take all your pictures. Then go back and listen to the audio which was pretty good. We did also like the Mosque of Suleyman and the other mosques we visited.

Posted by
4930 posts

We were in Istanbul this past October. We also don’t recommend the Hagia Sophia for the same reasons. We were very disappointed. The place we really enjoyed was the Topkapi Palace. You could easily spend the day there. So many different places to see within the palace and the grounds are beautiful.