Please sign in to post.

5 (6) Days in Krakow

This was my 1st visit to Poland and I don't think it will be my last visit though as I really enjoyed my short time here. Quick flight on Lufthansa from Frankfurt, got me to Krakow at 10:30. Though am a dedicated train rider in Germany, I chose to take a taxi from the airport to my hotel, because it is easy. Cost was about 30€. She told me upfront what it would cost. Paid with my EC card, and experienced the choice between zloty and euro. Always pick zloty.

Stayed at Shalom Kazimierz, which I found on booking dot com and got 5 nights for 350€, which included breakfast. My room was huge and even had a balcony. Decor was beautiful and the breakfast buffet was delicious. Location was perfect, with trams only a 5 min. walk and the whole area is filled with cafes, restaurants, and quirky little boutiques. I would stay here again!

Went for a walk in the neighborhood and found the old Remuh synagogue with cemetery, cost was 4€. Well worth the cost. It was interesting to see the difference in the Jewish cemetery here compared to the old ones in Germany. Most of the gravestones had metal roofs/covers, something I had never seen before, but they seem to be there to protect the stones.
Time for lunch and found a lovely restaurant across from the Synagogue, called Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz. Lovely service, unique decor and delicious food. Had the Cholenta, which is a traditional Jewish bean stew. Walked to the Old town area next, popping into St. Mary and had a coffee and odd choc. chip cookie at a cafe. Then met up with Andrea (from this forum) and her husband as they arrived early evening from the airport. They had a nice apt. in the Kazimierz area too. Then we went to dinner at the cool looking place across the street from my hotel. Chose potato pancakes with goulasch and got a HUGE portion. Took some back to my room since there was a small fridge there.

Day 2 - Had a great breakfast and then met up with Andrea & Jim and we went exploring, joining a Free Tour of Krakow that went everywhere in the old town, including up to the Wawel castle. Had some lunch, then they went on a Jewish tour and I went and took a short nap. We met up later for dinner and met the rest of the group that had also traveled from Frankfurt to do some tours here and to visit Auschwitz. Dinner was in a traditional Polish restaurant. Though it was good, this was my least favorite meal here due to the brusque server. She seemed to have an odd attitude, but we all just laughed about her later.
Day 3 - Met up with the group for a tour of Jewish Krakow, but in German, that lasted almost all day. The Synagogues were closed for New Years, but we saw where they all were, went over to the former Ghetto and also saw Schindlers Factory. Though the plan had been for us to visit inside, we were all just tired and it had rained all day, so headed off to our hotels to rest for a while. Dinner was planned for us at the Klezmer House in the square of Kazimierz and included a concert. The food was delicious and the atmosphere was delightful. Highly recommend a stop here for dinner and concert of Klezmer music.
Day 4 - Woke to more rain but we had our visit to Auschwitz planned for today. My friend had rented 2 cars for the 13 of us and we drove to Auschwitz, which was about an hour away. Met up with our guide for a private tour. Well worth it as we skipped all of the lines and had a much smaller group. There seemed to be 1000s of people there on tours. You cannot just buy a ticket and wander around. There were many places on this tour that asked that no photos be taken, but people were doing it anyway. So many heartbreaking exhibits here. The kids clothing got to me the most, knowing they were likely made by hand, with lots of love. The exhibit with the prosthetics was shocking. So many veterans who had given their limbs to Germany and then killed.
Then we drove to Birkenau for the rest of the tour.
(to be continued)

Posted by
9219 posts

(continued)
I just stood there gazing at the row upon row of barracks, extending into the distance in all 4 directions, struggling to comprehend that they had all been filled with 1000s of human beings, that were then all murdered. We went into one of the wooden barracks and again, I cannot imagine being here, having to try and live under those horrible conditions, hungry, cold, full of lice, and then made to work all day.
We then drove back to the city and all went to their hotels. We had a light dinner at the place I had gone to my 1st day and again, it was delicious. This time, had turkey with a forest mushroom gravy and fried potatoes.
Day 5 - Met up with Andrea and Jim and we explored the city some more, including a visit to 2 of the Synagogues we couldn't visit before. Headed over to the former Ghetto area and visited the Pharmacy which is now a museum. The Pharmacist here was Polish and watched everything that happened here and helped many to escape death. The day before, we had found his book at a bookstore that is in an old Synagogue in Kazimierz - "The Krakow Ghetto Pharmacy". We then headed back to the old town, went into a couple of the churches and then visited the Krakow underground museum. This is an astounding, huge museum and very interactive if you have kids. Everything was in English. This would be a must if you visit here. Did a bit of shopping, found a lovely place for dinner, this time some kind of chicken on top of mashed potatoes, which I thought was divine. Took the tram back to Kazimierz and said our good byes.
Day 6 - Just a half day really as I flew home in the evening. Lazed around my room for a bit, finished packing and left my pack at the front desk. Took the tram to the Castle and visited the Cathedral. Cost was 23 zloty and no photos allowed in here until you get to the crypt. There is a bell tower to climb if you like, but I didn't. Climbing days are over for me. Wandered around the old town some more, found a Polish scarf to buy, had a delicious lunch at Pierwszy Stopien in Kazimierz. Picked my pack and took a taxi to to the airport. Cost was 40€ this time. Wifi was out at the airport, so ended up giving the driver 40€ cash as had no more zloty.

Summation - Everyone spoke English immediately. I was pleasantly surprised and though embarresed that I hadn't learned a single word of Polish, it was so easy here. Kind service, yummy food at a decent price and beautiful old architecture. Most places took cards but there were a few that wanted cash. Trams were easy to use, and we normally got the discounted 20 min. ride for 2 zloty ( . 50€) What a bargain! Use google maps to find your tram and direction.
I would be happy to return again, maybe in the summer when it wasn't raining.

Posted by
4809 posts

Wonderful report! I also really like Krakow - I have been twice and would go back. I didn’t see the underground museum - so I guess not returning isn’t an option. Ha!

I told Andrea I stayed a week at Klezmer Hois a few years ago and while it is certainly not for everyone, it remains one of my favorite stays anywhere.

Thank you for the memories!

Posted by
4255 posts

Thanks for the trip report Ms. Jo. For us too it brings back lovely memories of Krakow. We would love to visit again and see all the smaller cities we missed on our first trip.

Posted by
4043 posts

Thanks, Ms Jo, for the trip report. I much enjoyed reading it. Auschwitz is tough. Krakow, though, is great. I much enjoyed my stay there a few years back.

Posted by
4100 posts

Thanks for the great trip report, Jo. It’s been a long time since we were there. I’d like to work it and several other places in Poland into a future trip. You’ve inspired me.

Posted by
634 posts

Thanks Ms. Jo. We also enjoyed Krakow very much and the people there were very friendly.

Posted by
33818 posts

Thanks Ms Jo

I found your report hard - very hard - to read. I think that you know that my cousin's wife's entire Hungarian branch of the family was murdered there. Dachau I can manage but I don't have family connections there. I don't know how I would hold myself together in Krakow.

So glad that you had good meetups, and the food sounds fab (except the group dinner).

I love Klezmer music.

Posted by
2766 posts

I'd like to hear more about the Polish scarf -- material? pattern? cost?

Was the signage in general in two languages or did you need to remember some odd characters?

Posted by
10597 posts

Thank you for the fantastic trip report. We thoroughly enjoyed Krakow and spending time with you. Thanks for hooking us up with the rest of the group. Everyone was so nice. Yes, Auschwitz was devastating. It is so hard to wrap one’s head around the pure evil that occurred there and in too many other places.

On a lighter note, where did you find the scarf? I’m still looking for one. We leave for Gdańsk this morning, so maybe there?

Posted by
2141 posts

I just got home from Krakow on 9/27. What a lovely city, and you walked in my footsteps.
We had great weather with the weather turning wet and cold just after we left.
The clothing of the children and photos of the children at Auschwitz did me in! I have no words for Birkenou. May the Nazis rot in hell!

Posted by
9219 posts

Avi - there are no special letters as they use the same alphabet.
Andrea - there was a store selling lots of scarves in one of the outside stands on the Market Hall. It is cashmere and cost 75zloty which is what they pretty much cost every place else.

Posted by
10597 posts

Ms. Jo, I’m sorry I missed that one because I saw zero scarves in Warsaw. We arrived in Gdańsk yesterday afternoon and walked around the old town. While I saw scarves they were the same as I could get at home, not quite what I wanted. That said, I may have to break down and buy a warmer scarf than the one I brought with me and a hat. It is quite cold and windy here. I wish I had bought some Polish pottery in Krakow as well. I only saw a little in Warsaw, always at souvenir shops that didn’t ship things for customers, and none at all so far in Gdańsk. A good lesson learned, when you see something you want just get it.

Posted by
9219 posts

Try visiting a dept. store if they have them in the downtown area. They may have a selection. Ask the front desk clerk in your hotel. They often know where to go.

Posted by
4100 posts

Andrea, you inspired me to walk back to a shop in Kinsale this morning and buy one piece of Polish pottery I saw yesterday. It’s a pattern I hadn’t seen before. They only had one and I’d prefer more but I wasn’t going to let it slip by. I did find a scarf this week but still no gloves that I like and can wear in California when we return.

Posted by
7976 posts

Ms. Jo, lovely trip report! Poland is high on my list (sigh) and one of these days I will get there. You make it sound so wonderful!

Posted by
10597 posts

Mona, if you’re still in Kinsale I highly recommend you guys eat at Fishy Fishy. It was delicious. I’m sad to say I have not bought a single piece of Polish Pottery. We went to a place today where I was tempted to buy some small plates, but when I heard how much it would cost to ship I decided I didn’t like them that much. :-/