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47 Day Italian Trip Part 2; on to Puglia and the Amalfi Coast

After traveling since April 1 on our own my friend and I joined the Rick Steves 17 day Best of Italy Tour on Sunday April 12. It ended on April 28.
It was my 4th RS tour and I loved it. I will probably do a separate post on the tour.

Rome; 4 nights (2 on our own after the tour). A highlight for me was seeing the amazing Pieta again after so many years and seeing Pope Leo on Wednesday when St Peters square was bursting with other folks that wanted to see him. It was a glorious weather day and because he is driven around in his "pope mobile" it was easy to see him. So many babies were passed to him for a blessing and that really tugged on my heart strings. I also loved seeing so many people gathered in one spot and I saw no ill behavior in the crowd, everyone seemed to be enjoying the occasion and were very respectful. It was a great experience.

Another friend flew into Rome and joined us for the last few weeks of the trip. We then headed to the Puglia region; this was new to all of us.
Polignano a Mare; three nights. Took Jeans advice and stayed at POSEA, Polignano Sea Suites. Probably lucked out with her favorite room, was up on the top floor with a separate very large rooftop terrace. Views were amazing. We were happy to spend three nights here. One day we took a short train to Monopoli and enjoyed exploring that town as well.
Alberobello; 2 nights. Loved wandering here. Loved where we stayed enjoying the truli experience.
Lecce; 2 nights. This was not easy to get to from Alberobello. Loved where we stayed and the ease of wandering, but was not enamored with the town as much as I thought I would be. But I'm glad we went. One night I went off by myself to attend a rosary in one of the churches and I got a better feel for the area.
Matera; 3 nights. This was an amazing place on so many levels. Starting with the place we stayed and the owner. Her and her family have lovingly restored 4 rooms in an old cave area. Called Torretta ai Sassi. The view was magical, at all times of the day and night. The history of this place is beyond amazing and well worth looking up.
Salerno; 5 nights. From here we were able to visit Pompeii one day, Pasteum another, a full day with a private driver all along the Amalfi coast, a bus ride I would not like to repeat and other explorations.
Naples; 2 nights. I enjoyed Naples way more than I thought I would. Gritty, noisy, chaotic, graffiti everywhere but somehow it works! The archeological museum is not to be missed and loved seeing so many artifacts from Pompeii.

So altogether it was a fabulous adventure. 20 different lodgings (including the ones on the tour), multiple trains (including one only 3 minutes long), toooooo many glorious churches to count, fabulous art, delicious food, a new appreciation for Italian espresso, more steps than I could ever imagine from metros with non working escalators to lodging without elevators, and everything in-between, lots of ancient ruins, really good weather, excellent traveling companions, new friends (from the tour), and so much more. Fantastico!

Traveling with three has some limitations. Not as easy to find lodging but we managed. None of us need fancy or high end, just clean and preferable the old part of towns/cities because that is where most of what we want to see and experience is located.

Thanks for listening! It helps to review and brings back great memories.

Posted by
9950 posts

Regina, I love reading your impressions of the cities you visited! I can picture being there again (was just there last month!) through your eyes & happy you liked the POSEA at Polignano a Mare.

I haven’t been to Naples, yet - some day. I liked the grittiness of Palermo combined with all of the gorgeous churches & mosaics, soI think you would like Palermo, too.

Posted by
151 posts

Regina,

How easy or difficult was it to go from town to town using trains or other public transportation?

Posted by
249 posts

Thanks so much for your trip report - Matera has been calling me for years and I've now bookmarked where you stayed as we love a terrace/view and where you stayed looks amazing!

Posted by
133 posts

Terri, I found traveling by train and bus fairly easy in Italy. Especially the North I would say. Milan to Verona was a straight shot. Verona to Ravenna we had to change once I think and the same for Ravenna to Padova. We booked all of that before we left. Regional trains you cannot reserve a seat, but the other trains you can. I cannot remember where we were but had one time that we had to stand for an entire hour. On a regional train. Could be worse; in 2024 we had to stand for 5 hours from Munich to Vienna. I kid you not, 5 hours on a very very crowded train. Almost did me in but here I am.....😜
Train travel was a bit more difficult south of Rome. Not insurmountable though. Some days we went by bus (Matera to Salerno was by bus). None of us spoke Italian and we had a few surprises. Like the bus from Matera to Salerno had a change that we were not aware of. Just suddenly pulled in to a small station and everyone was told to get off. We were not the only ones confused but we managed to figure it out.
Another time in Salerno we were trying to get a train to Pompeii I think when all of sudden it was switched to a bus. Tracks were being worked on I think.
I was impressed with the cleanliness of the trains in Italy. And generally they were timely.

Jean thanks for putting the link to my Part One. I'm not real savvy when it comes to maneuvering on this site.

Debbi I will try to send you a private message with some photos of the place we stayed in Matera. It was splendid. Our room was very small and there were three of us but it was meticulously maintained and every thing perfectly thought out.

Posted by
133 posts

Jean,
I was in Sicily in 1974!! My friends grandmother lived in Sicily and I met her there. I think I was there for about a week or so. Took the train from Florence to Messina if I remember correctly. She lived outside of that town. I have been thinking about the RS tour of Sicily, I hear its wonderful.

Posted by
151 posts

Thanks for the reply Regina. We've done trains in Italy before, but they have always among the larger cities. I'm more concerned about the southern regions. We would like to plan a trip to Puglia and the Basilicata region in the future,
and I'm a little anxious about navigating those trains. I'll have to reread a few of Jean's posts because I know she's an expert in navigating trains in that region!

Posted by
9950 posts

The trains are very easy getting to the Puglia region from Rome, over to Matera, and especially down the coastal towns of Puglia. For Alberobello you take a bus from Bari. The bus is part of the Trenitalia system, so the ticket is purchased through Trenitalia. The bus location is the most confusing part of travel in this region. And that applies if you’re taking a bus at Martina Franca, also. For the bus station in Bari, walk straight through the train station and out the back side to the street. Cross the street and look for a small sign. That’s the “bus station”. And have your ticket purchased on the app a day or two ahead, or you won’t get the bus time you want. Past Alberobello, you can take the train to reach Locorotondo & Martina Franca.

  1. Do not plan to travel by public transportation on a Sunday. I know this one from experience. ; )
  2. Download the Trenitalia app. It is extremely easy to use and you don’t need to stand in any lines for tickets or ticket machines. And no worries about validated tickets with the app.
  3. Don’t bother buying any Regionale tickets until the day you’re traveling. The price doesn’t go up, and there’s no seat assignments. But for the Frecciarossa from Rome to Bari ot Lecce, etc. buy it ahead to save money.
  4. The trains are mostly new & very nice. And surprisingly I have very rarely had a late train in the south.
  5. The train to Matera is run by a separate company. It’s location is adjacent to Bari Centrale, but it has a different line. This explanation got me there in good shape. https://happytowander.com/bari-to-matera-by-train/
  6. Traveling in this area by public transportation is a solid reason to pack as light as possible.
  7. Oh, one more important point. Don’t assume train stations with the city name are on the city’s edge. Some of them are on the level plain while the city is up a steep hill or a few miles away.

Hope that helps!

Posted by
79 posts

Jean - I will be visiting Italy in September (with 2 gals from your home state!) and we plan on traveling to Sorrento (Meta) after our 3 nights in Rome. Our travel day is Sunday, so I was a bit alarmed by your comment here 1) Do not plan to travel by public transportation on a Sunday. I know this one from experience. ; )
Why is this a problem and what do you recommend we do to mitigate?

Posted by
9950 posts

EmpreSki, you will be taking two fast trains - the Frecciarossa type from Rome to reach Sorrento. That’s the best situation. But other types of trains & buses can & have either been very late or a no-show on a few Sundays when I tried to go between cities. I personally make it a practice in any country now to not travel on Sundays - just to reduce the chance that I’m stuck, unless I’m taking a private shuttle.

The list of upcoming strikes is very helpful as you’re traveling:
https://scioperi.mit.gov.it/mit2/public/scioperi

Posted by
79 posts

Jean,
Thanks for that extra info and the link. I was meaning to locate the link when the dates got a little closer, as I have read about the strikes. Appreciate your insights!
Elsa