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Trip report: 4 days in Copenhagen (Sep 2024)

Apologies for taking so long to post this report, especially since so many of you helped me plan my Scandinavian trip. This was a solo trip in September 2024 and I arrived in Copenhagen during their historical heatwave. I only had 4 days and I usually cram a lot of things during my trips since they are short. I move fast and walk a lot, but Copenhagen Discovery Card covered all my trains, metro and most museums/castles. I know it looks hectic but I have to say I didn't feel rushed in any way. I planned my day to make most sense by location/area of town, and even added a few unplanned stops. My hotel was really close to main train station so it was easy for me to go explore other towns and stop by hotel briefly in afternoon before heading out again. I'm in my late 40s and very active.

Day 1 - arrived in the morning. Took train from airport to Main Train Station (about 20 minutes). My hotel was really close to train station and Tivoli. I dropped bag and went out to explore and fight the jetlag. Walked all the way to Nyhavn grabbing a bite on the way. When I arrived near Christianborg Palace, there was an agglomeration of people and several army/military personnel. I went to check it out and found out it was Flag/Veteran's day. I even saw the King himself salute the troops! I then took one of the canal tours included in the Discover card. I had early dinner near Nyhavn, then took metro back to train station around 6:30pm. I stopped by Tivoli briefly and watched one of the outdoor live Theater shows.

Day 2 - Morning was a bike tour with Bike with Mike which I highly recommend. I really got a feel for the city and saw several other main sights/palaces (honestly, I could have skipped the mermaid). The tour stopped briefly at Broens Gadekøkken (street food market) and I got a quick snack. I saw several places during the bike tour I would have not on my own. After the tour, I had lunch (smørrebrød) at Det Lille Apotek which I had made a reservation. Interesting building, they call themselves the oldest restaurant in Denmark and it used to be a Pharmacy. After that, I visited Round Tower which is nearby. On way out, walked by the old Old Copenhagen University Library (this beautiful red brick building made me want to go inside, and so glad I did!). On way back to hotel, I stopped again at Tivoli for a quick stroll. It became my nightly routine since it was covered with Discovery card. Beautiful sunset so I went on Ferris wheel ride (used my credit card to tap and pay for a ride).

Day 3 - I had pre-booked a 9am slot to climb the Church of our Savior Spire. From there, I took metro and train to Hillerød to visit Frederiksborg Castle, and had lunch in the old town. Train back to Central Station in the afternoon, quick stop at the hotel to refresh myself, then I headed out to visit Frederik's Church (Marble Church - stunning!), then went to Kastellet before sunset hour. Enjoyed dinner by the water at the nearby Seaside Toldboden (fun food market place with affordable options). A bit of a walk from there to metro station and went back to hotel.

Day 4 - Took morning train to Helsingør and explored the old town and Kronborg. I was surprised how slow/quiet Old Town was. I forgot it was Sunday. I ended up spending more time at the castle than I thought I would! I had lunch in Old Town, walked back to station and took train back to Copenhagen. Arrived early-afternoon and went straight to Christianborg Palace tour. I wish I had timed it better as I lost my chance to see the stables/king’s horses which had closed before the ruins I was visiting. Christianborg was better than I expected. I had dinner at Maple Casual Dining which was wonderful (near main train station).

Day 5 - departed in the morning to Norway.

Posted by
4321 posts

Thanks for posting this. Perfect timing as I’m headed to Copenhagen next month for a solo trip.

I’m trying to figure out how to fit everything in. I like your idea of booking the early time slot to climb the church spire and then heading out for a day trip.

I’ll have to look into that bike tour.

Posted by
312 posts

Carrie - Copenhagen is very walkable and flat. Things were not as far and metro works great too.
I am glad I got first slot for the Church spire. The climbing is not as high but it is narrow. There was a young man ahead of me waiting for church to open so he went first, and a couple behind which were slower. On my way down, it was tricky to go past others climbing up. When you get to the tippy top, there is barely enough room for one person, no "landing" zone. The stairs get so narrow you can't go further.

I just looked at time stamp on my photos. I have a 9:07am at the top of outside staircase. And another at 9:19am further down on the outside staircase (but still high) before I went inside to climb down, so I lingered there a bit taking it all in and enjoying the view. 10:38am I was in Hillerod old town. I had the metro and train all planned out (departure times, etc.). It was a beautiful (and hot!) day in early September.

Bike with Mike was recommended by someone on this forum, and I know a friend of a friend who did it as well. I went on the hello morning tour. It was pricey but I think worth it.
https://bikecopenhagenwithmike.dk/

Posted by
11398 posts

Joy, thanks for your excellent report.

Carrie, I also did the Bike with Mike tour and absolutely loved it. Another strong recommendation.

Posted by
12020 posts

Joy, thanks for the trip report. It brought back a lot of memories of Copenhagen. I was there in 2022 and really enjoyed it. It's such a wonderful city, and I loved Tivoli!

Carrie, that's fun that you'll be going to Copenhagen! I don't know how long you'll be there for, but I do recommend a trip to Roskilde Cathedral if you have the time. It's a beautiful place and it holds the tombs of many of Denmark's royalty. It really was an amazing and historic place. The town itself is very charming as well. The Viking museum is also in Roskilde, and that's worth a look as long as you're there, but I went to see the cathedral and I just loved it.

Of course, not everyone is as enamored of cathedrals as I am, but just thought I'd mention it. 😊

Posted by
2099 posts

Great report. I enjoyed revisiting Copenhagen through your eyes.

We, too, stayed very close to Tivoli, but we walked nearly everywhere. We thought it was a great location.

Posted by
4321 posts

Thanks, Kim! After looking at the bike tour times (10 am or 2 pm), I’m not sure I’ll be able to fit it in—I’d almost need a 6 am option so it doesn’t interfere with what I already have planned.

Thanks, Mardee! Roskilde is definitely on my must-see list—for both the cathedral and the Viking museum. I still haven’t tired of cathedrals. I’ll be in Copenhagen for four nights, Stockholm for five, then back to Copenhagen for another four. I’m planning to get the Discover Card for both Copenhagen stays, and will probably get the Go City Card for Stockholm too. I’m a sucker for convenience.

Posted by
2530 posts

Joy, years ago (pre 1990s) I was in Copenhagen with my Mom. We loved the mermaid and were disappointed in Tivoli Gardens. It's always interesting to get other folks perspective. I don't know what our problem was with Tivoli. Maybe we expected more beautiful gardens and less amusement rides/carnival atmosphere. Also, the mermaid was not crowded at all in those days which probably helped our enjoyment. I remember my Mom bought me a huge, beautifully illustrated book of Hans Christian Anderson tales. I still have it and cherish it.

Posted by
312 posts

Hi Laurie Beth - It is amazing how we are different on our travels and everyday life. The bike tour stopped for a bit by the mermaid so people could take photo. I don't know why that didn't interest me. I would have preferred to had lingered longer somewhere else, but I can say I saw it. I did take a photo from afar but didn't queue for a "selfie".

I loved Tivoli which surprised me! Twice I went early in the day. They had orchids decoration by the entrance. I just took a quick look and walked out. When I returned in the evening, a complete different atmosphere. I enjoyed strolling through the "older section" of the park and really enjoyed watching a ballet and a play sitting outside at the Pantomine Theater. I didn't stay for the rock concert they had one Saturday evening.

For those with Discovery Card, if you want to enter Tivoli twice on same day, they need to stamp your hand (someone suggested shoulder so it didn't wash off) so you can re-enter later. The QR code only let them scan once a day.

Posted by
2530 posts

Joy, my trip was before there was such a thing as a selfie OR a queue to take one. That may have increased our enjoyment. Also, Mom was an English teacher and we both loved the tales of Hans Christian Andersen which probably made the mermaid more meaningful for us. I promise if I get to Copenhagen again, I'll give Tivoli Gardens another try.

Posted by
2099 posts

I liked the mermaid. She is small and unprepossessing, but her setting, with the harbour in the background, is wonderful, and, of course, she is iconic.

But I loved Tivoli. I found it charming and fun. I heard somewhere that Walt Disney got the idea for Disneyland from Tivoli. I'm not sure if that's true.

Posted by
39 posts

@Joy Thank you ! I had asked you a question on another thread about the daily strolls thru Tivoli. While attractions only allow a one time visit, are you saying the discovery card allows multiple entries ? I will be purchasing a 5 day card (will be there for 8 days) . Also..would you have enjoyed the location near Tivloi & the train or near the Round Tower in Indre By better ? I can't decide between the unique 25Hours Indre By or Hotel Mayfair near Tivoli (and about 1500 usd less !!) Thank you !

Posted by
312 posts

@Lisa
Sorry if I didn’t see your other question. I only get notifications for replies to my original post. Feel free to PM me if you have other specific questions.

My only experience with multiple entries was at Tivoli. But I don’t think that is only for Discovery card. If you want to return on same day, they stamp your hand when you exit (just don’t forget to ask for it!). They can only scan the Discovery card once for entry each day, the same if you have a regular ticket I assume.

The first time I didn’t know about it and when they tried to scan my card at night, it said already used. I explained I thought I was allowed to return and guard said “with a stamp”. He let me in and I knew what to do next day - ask for the stamp when leaving if I stopped there in the morning. It was old school stamp on my hand/arm.

So yes. I went in the morning and again later in the day at Tivoli.

As for hotel, I think it depends on your plans and itinerary. I liked staying closer to train station so it was easy to get from and to airport, and I had 2 separate day trips. Tivoli wasn’t the driver for my decision but silver lining. I really enjoyed ending my sightseeing days with a stroll in the park.

Posted by
4321 posts

Lisa, the Discover card covers ONE visit per card, however, you can re-enter Tivoli on the same day if you get a re-entry stamp at the main entrance.

https://copenhagencard.com/attractions/751?srsltid=AfmBOoouUbucQJXQO1Brf0pJeuevan1EyUhV28RXx-bno8nHtCCGVb08

So, I you want to go multiple times, you’ll need to buy a ticket. Or, check out the price for getting multiple Discover card since you’ll be there for 8 days. That’s what I’m doing—I’ll be getting two 4-day cards. But, I’ll be in Stockholm in between.

Posted by
312 posts

@Carrie and @Lisa - Discovery Card allowed me one entry per day at Tivoli for each day the card was valid in September 2024.
I had a 4-day Discovery Card, and used it at Tivoli 3 days. I did not have a problem when they scanned my card each day. My only problem was scanning it twice on same day. I remember other attractions were one visit only.
I don't know if the rules have changed since then and I would suggest you reach out to Tivoli/Copenhagen Card directly to verify.

Posted by
39 posts

@joy @Carrie, i will check about those Tivoli entry rules, maybe it changed, maybe it was a special time. I only flagged it because it seems so great to be able to walk in so often, but with crowds and the music they host, I imagine your experience was not the norm or there would never be crowd control. Though I read one review of a hotel that provided access to Tivoli, so they must have an "arrangement" I am so stuck on deciding about a hotel. Love the looks of 25Hours Indre By, but it is unnecessarily costly as compare to Hotel Mayfair, our other choice.(3600 usd vs 1950 for 8 nights) We are never ever in the room or hotel other than to sleep. Esp in a city like CPH in the summer..so much to explore !

Posted by
4321 posts

Lisa, i'm staying at the copenhagen strand. i want to be right near the water so i step out of the hotel and get some hopefully great sunrise pictures.

Posted by
312 posts

@Lisa - Like you, I also use the hotel primarily to sleep. But one thing I would say make sure it has AC! I was there during unexpected heatwave in September and my hotel only had AC in one floor. They ended up upgrading my room to that floor with AC because the floor fan they provided in regular room did not do the trick for me.