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32 days in Italy: All's Well That Ends Well

My wife and I (ages 72 and 74) spent April in Italy. It was a wonderful trip (Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome and Sorrento), but it was marred by various scammers and neer-do-wells. We have visited 13 different European countries over the past decade and never experienced such interactions. In Milan, there were three separate attempts to pickpocket us in the metro. The one that did succeed was my fault when I was not paying attention and left my anti-theft button and zipper on my shirt pocket open. Don't know what I was thinking. After departing the car, I knew I had lost my wallet. My wife immediately got on the different organizations' apps and reported my two credit cards and bank debit card stolen and canceled them. Within 30 minutes, the notifications began. Several attempts totaling several thousand euros were made. None were successful, thanks to my wife's quick action and the different anti-fraud departments at the bank and credit card companies. We continued on our journey with me feeling a little more stupid that I did a few days earlier. My wife had a couple of credit cards and a bank card, all with different numbers so we did not have any issues moving forward. Until.... we arrived in Ercolano for a couple of nights. We needed a bit of cash. My wife, with a banking background, always uses bank ATMs when withdrawing cash. We use cash for small purchases and maybe a tip here and there. We located a bank near the Herculaneum ruins and withdrew some cash. Four days later, my wife received a call from the bank's anti-fraud department. About 15 transactions were made using the bank debit card number in Indonesia totaling about $600. Since my wife had only used the card twice previously and that was a couple weeks before, the anti-fraud department surmised a skimmer had been placed on the ATM in Ercolano. We filed a fraud report and canceled the card. We had never heard or read about skimmers on bank ATMs in Europe. That was a surprise to us.

When all was said and done, we were made whole by the bank and the two financial misadventures cost us nothing but the inconvenience of getting new cards and in my instance a new driver's license when we returned home, a bit wiser. Pickpockets seem to be everywhere in Europe. At check-in at our Rome hotel, the clerk warned us right away about the danger and said he was a victim just a few days earlier. He called them "magicians." They even post "watch out for pickpockets" signs on the trails in Iceland. (We stopped off there on our way home.)

Just one other note: In many countries we have been approached by people selling trinkets, etc. table to table at cafes etc., but Italy stood out because the sellers were more aggressive than others we have encountered in the past. Several times, my wife had to forcefully say "No" before they moved on. Wave of the hand or ignoring them didn't work.

Despite these issues, we loved Italy and we hope to return in the future. If we don't, we still will have lifetime memories of our April 2026 trip to one of the most enchanting countries on earth.

Posted by
21 posts

I’m sorry for your difficulties with scammers. But your tri does sound wonderful and I’m glad you had a good time.

Posted by
17250 posts

Gosh, I'm sorry you got picked but happy your wife had cards with her. You might consider adding cards to the Apple or google wallet as CC companies can update your new card immediately in your wallet and you can use it right away before you get the plastic replacement.

Interesting about the ATM skimmer in Ercolano as well.

Thanks for posting your experience.

Posted by
12398 posts

Oh, I'm so sorry that all that happened to you, but I appreciate you coming here to warn everyone. Sounds like you and your wife had things already planned, so that was great.

I agree with Pam in that you might want to consider putting your credit cards in Apple or Google Wallet. I thought I had lost several credit cards when I was in Budapest last year (it turns out I didn't), but in the meantime, I was able to go in right away and freeze my cards within seconds after figuring out it was missing.

Posted by
4717 posts

I'm very sorry about your troubles, but I am glad it didn't rob you of your joy from the trip, and I am glad you chose to share it with us as a reminder to be alert!

Posted by
3631 posts

I'm sorry you had problems with pickpockets and scammers. Your attitude about your trip is great, no "poor me." I appreciate you letting us know that theft is rampant. More than previous? A good reminder to be extra cautious, especially for those of us who travel solo.

Posted by
948 posts

I’m sorry to hear about the pickpocket and ATM problem. This can happen to anyone. Thank goodness your wife reacted so quickly!

What were the highlights of your trip?

Posted by
1749 posts

I had an aquaintance who lived in San Francisco who hides his cards etc. and when out and about has a pocket with what he can spare to a pick pocket or a handout. Never use your debit card at gas station; thought I had left it in the machine...it was the last place I used it when I checked it at the bank and decided to cancel it. Of course I found it in my coat pocket I had worn that day.

Posted by
555 posts

What a bummer about the incident. The second one I read today. But you both seemed to have the right attitude and it all ended well.
Would love to hear more about something positive that is memorable from this trip.

Posted by
1860 posts

Sorry that happened but it sounds like you had a good trip anyway! Did you spend the night in Herculano & if so did you enjoy the hotel?

Skimmer had been placed on the ATM in Ercolano.

Actually, I was alerted to this in the US by my techie savvy hubby, he always covers the key pad with his hand so any device cannot read the card. Of course, there are probably new devices that can still read the card, but this is what we do.....

Posted by
39 posts

Since several of you asked questions, I'll try to answer them. The Google wallet suggestion is a good one. My wife has hers in it, I just never got around to it. Oh well. Now, the trip highlights:
MILAN
da Vinci's The Last Supper. Restricting attendance works well. It was magnificent.
Milan Duomo rooftop tour. Wow.
Navigli district (our hotel's location.) The canals, strolling at night, the restaurants. Yea.
VENICE
Cicchetti food tour. Met great people and journeyed to places and alleys we would never find on our own.
Exploring Cannaregio district (our hotel's location), where we sat in a campo (piazza) with no other tourists in sight watching boys kick around a soccer ball and oldsters doing the same thing we were doing. Even stumbled upon a youth soccer (sorry, football) match on a proper field and parents in the stands and a small city park with a family of what seemed like 30 people picnicking under the trees. By far, our favorite day in Venice.
Peggy Guggenheim Museum. If you like art museums, "modern" art and touring rich people's houses, this is a must. What a setting.
Vaporetto trips. Heading down the Grand Canal just for the heck of it. No particular destination in mind.
FLORENCE
Michelangelo's David at the Accademia. What can I say. Breath-taking.
Mercato Firenze. Great food, great atmosphere.
Botticelli's The Birth of Venus and Primivera and da Vinci's early works at the Uffizzi. I'm not a big fan of Renaissance paintings, but I do like Botticelli.
Medici Chapels. Way over the top and literally overwhelming. Astonishing what amount of money was spent here.
The Duomo. Didn't have to venture inside to appreciate the architectural genius of Brunelleschi.
SORRENTO
We spent four days here and had literally nothing on our agendas because we knew we would be a bit knackered.
Talking to the artisans in the back streets of Old Town. Resulted in earrings and woodworking stuff coming home with us.
Lounging outside the cafes enjoying the views, maybe a spritz (or two). Hugo for me, Select for my wife. Weather was perfect.
ROME
Testaccio food tour. Awesome. Went back several times to places we went to on the tour, including the Testaccio Market and a gelato place.
Hanging out in in Piazza Testaccio watching kids spraying water from the public fountain, kicking soccer balls (again), moms with baby carriages. If we return to Rome, we will stay in this neighborhood.
St. Peter's Cathedral. Had tickets for 8 a.m., showed up at 7:30 and walked right in. No line at all. The altar, the dome, the Pieta. All worth it, even if you have to stand in line.
Borghese Gallery and Park. The sculptures in the gallery were stunning and the park, both before and after the museum visit, is so worth just taking a breath in.
Palatine Hill and the Forum. Ancient history comes alive.
The Rose Garden. Peaceful and lovely. Never knew there were so many different roses.
THE DOWN
Only a couple, ignoring the pickpockets and skimmer.
The Vatican Museums. Way overcrowded, been to the Louvre several times and I thought that was crowded, but this takes the cake.
The Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Pompeii, Sorrento. A nightmare. Overcrowded, uncomfortable. Be prepared to stand. Can't fathom what it would be like in the summer with no a/c.
That's it.
We just fell in love with doing nothing but watch the world go by as we sat in the piazzas, campos, parks. etc. No museums, no churches, just normal everyday life. We love Italy.

Posted by
1860 posts

Thanks for the excellent notes - Navigli district (our hotel's location.) Would you mind sharing your hotel if you enjoyed it?

Glad you enjoyed the Testaccio food tour. It was a highlight of our last trip to Rome. Went back several times to places we went to on the tour, including the Testaccio Market and a gelato place. So did we, and just to stroll in this quiet corner of busy Rome.

We just fell in love with doing nothing but watch the world go by as
we sat in the piazzas, campos, parks. etc. No museums, no churches,
just normal everyday life.

THAT sounds wonderful! I always feel sad for tourists who jam in more monuments at the expense of sitting quietly in an out of the way cafe watching the world go by.... "Dolche far niente". (The beauty of doing nothing.)

Posted by
1058 posts

Thanks so much for taking the time to share the ups and the downs of your Italy experience. Obviously the amazing beauty of all you did showed through. You brought back great memories for me and makes me realize I have to go back to Italy one more time. You have a gift at communicating, be sure to share your next journey, too!

Posted by
12398 posts

Thanks for the wonderful descriptions of your trip! I haven't been to Italy in over 20 years, and I was just mentioning to someone the other day that I would love to get back. This made me want to go even more. It sounds like an absolutely wonderful trip overall, even with the slight hiccup!

Posted by
17250 posts

Oh gosh, thanks for expanding on your trip experiences! What a fabulous time! I'm not much for sculpture but the Borghese blew me away. Wow.

AND you had my favorite....Hugo spritz. Or in France, a Saint-Germain spritz. Someone posted a recipe recently if you are interested, hahahaha!

Now the lecture, lol: A few years ago one of the folks in my local RS meet up group literally nagged me into using Apple Wallet and ApplePay. I get down on my knees regularly to thank her for pushing me in to that. It makes life so much easier! DO add your CCs to Apple Wallet. DO use it at home before you travel so you are used to how it functions. I started using it at our small natural food store where all the cashiers are young as I figured they could help me if I got stuck. They were patient as I fumbled thru but now I could not live without it. I never take out my CCs or DC any more. I also had my AMEX card compromised here at home. Started getting notifications in the middle of the night for charges. When I called the next morning the AMEX person went thru the process, cancelled, reissued and said...I see you have this loaded in your Apple Wallet. I'll go ahead and update that information and you can use it immediately before you get your card. Sure enough, by the time I hung up and checked AppleWallet the new number was uploaded and I was good to go. VERY handy for travel! SO....upload at least one card when you get the reissue and start using it for your everyday purchases!