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3 weeks in Italy by train

I've been encouraged to write this by a poster that I have had some private conversations with. It's not something I do regularly.

My wife and I like to get away from the UK in the dark wet months between January and March. We managed to have an opportunistic two weeks in the Galapagos in January - cheap Avios flights and piggybacking on our younger son's 3+ week trip to Ecuador.

For the next trip we already had a week's booking in a Marriott timeshare in Mallorca booked for the UK February half term school holiday, to share with our eldest son, wife and 3 year old granddaughter. We then decided to add something else on to that and we haven't been properly to Italy for a while, so we planned a 3 week add on.

I hatched a plan to fly to Italy from Mallorca and take a route south and then eventually back home to the UK. Whilst I could probably manage to book all this myself I was attracted to try the services of a relatively new UK agent specialising in no fly holidays. It was incredibly easy to get a plan from them in a day or two which we pretty much stuck with after a few tweaks. The simplest plan was for them to use a 7 days in a month Interrail* pass for us both and we were able to take advantage of their limited offer of free first class upgrades.

We flew from Palma to Bologna on 22/2 for the simple reason that that was the only direct flight from Palma to Italy on the day. But it's a great place to start as it's a big rail junction, we had never been and it was a perfect start for two nights.

We took a fast train from Bologna to Napoli for three nights in a city I have been around but never properly visited. We took a food tour on the first day and went to Pompei on the second to show my wife who had never been. I had first visited in Easter 1967 as a 14 year old schoolboy on a school trip, which had also been by train. Our next destination for two nights was Minori, on the Amalfi coast and where we had stayed 59 years ago. A simple train ride to Salerno followed by an hour long bus drive along the coast road. A ferry would be an alternative way to get there but not in late February to Minori - there were limited services to Maiori and Amalfi itself.

On the full day we had we walked the Sentiero del Limoni over the hill from Minori to Maiori. On the way down into Maiori my wife stumbled over a sole step and fell over. She bounced straight up and everything seemed to be fine - we carried on walking around Maiori and then took the bus and walked round Amalfi (far too busy to be enjoyable even on an afternoon in February). However when she woke up on the following morning she could hardly walk and her right knee had swollen up like a balloon. She is a retired doctor and has already had a couple of falls meaning she has a titanium nail in her lower right leg, so she was naturally concerned that she had broken something. So, instead of taking an early bus back to Salerno and a train to Palermo, we were in a taxi to the nearest hospital just outside Salerno. Thankfully x-rays showed that nothing was broken and we were able to get back on the rails, although we had missed our booked train. Given the flexibility of our passes it was very easy to re book seats on an afternoon train and we eventually arrived in Palermo at 23.15 rather than the 19.00 it should have been.

The following morning there was some improvement for Anne and after a visit to a pharmacy for a knee support the doctor in Salerno had recommended and some painkilling gel we took a HoHo bus tour of Palermo with an add on to Monreale. It helped to cut down on the walking and provided a very convenient if a bit more expensive way to get up to Monreale for the stunning cathedral.

The day after there was enough improvement for Anne to commit to a walking tour of the city and to do a tour of the Teatro Massimo.

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The following day we walked down to the harbour to collect a hire car from Sixt for 4 days. We wanted to get to some parts of Sicily difficult to access by train. We had first come to the island in January 1983 with a couple of friends. By the time we got there both of the women were in the early stages of pregnancy with our first children. We spent a week driving around the island, with me doing all the driving. So I knew what to expect in Sicily. Everyone knows that it's one of the most challenging places to drive and of course being from the UK I had the added challenge of being on the "wrong" side of the road as well. But everything was fine.

We first drove to Selinunte to see the collection of Greek temples by the sea on the southern coast before driving onto Agrigento for 3 nights. The first day was re-visiting the Valley of the Temples, so by then we had had a good dose of Greek architecture. The Temple of Concordia was fabulous but overall I think I preferred the site at Selinute - more atmospheric and part from the odd school group very quiet. A point to note - February and March are high season for Italian school groups, I presume to avoid scorching Summer temperatures and access cheaper accommodation. Everywhere we went there would be large groups of them, apart from at the weekends.

On the second day we took a day trip to the Villa Romana del Casale, another place we had been to in 1983. The mosaics were even more impressive than I remembered (maybe more restoration has happened?). It was probably the most impressive sight we saw all holiday.

Next day we drove to Catania to drop off the car. The aim had been to have a one way hire from Palermo to Siracusa but I couldn't find anyone who would do that so we end up dropping the car in Catania and taking the train south to Siracusa. Only when on the train did I realise that the train passes a station at Catania airport, which we could have used, which would probably have been easier than going into the city.

Two nights on Ortigya completed our Sicily trip. We were slowing down by this stage although we did make the effort to walk up to the Greek and Roman amphitheatres and to take a boat trip around Ortigya. We had no real high hopes for the latter but it was surprisingly interesting and quite bouncy heading into a healthy breeze to see the grottoes.

We then started our way home with a big journey - the sleeper train from Siracusa to Roma, followed by a fast train to Milano and a regions train to Lecco at the foot of Lake Como, 20 hours in all. No first class on the sleeper but our two berth cabin was perfectly comfortable. We had 3.5 hours scheduled to wait in Roma Termini for the connection to Milano, but for quite a while we looked to be about 4 hours late. But in the end the train caught some time up and we arrived with 20 to change trains. Actually it was probably preferable to spend the time on the train rather than at the station.

We had two nights scheduled in Lecco after the long night and day's travel and in preparation for another two. We used that day by taking the train up to Varenna, taking a walk along the lake shore and then taking a ferry to Bellagio. Both Varenna and Bellagio are lovely but again, even in early March, absolutely packed with tourists. we were going to reverse our journey to get back to our hotel, but then I wondered if we could get a bus straight back to Lecco. It looked from the map like the road was right along the lake shore.

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I found the bus, which was about every hour and took about 40 minutes. There was just the very Italian challenge of buying the tickets. We went to the tabacchi opposite the ferry landing in Bellagio, which seemed the obvious spot. The tabbachi did indeed sell bus tickets, but for some reason only to Como. He did tell us where to go for the Lecco bus tickets, which turned out to be a sandwich shop called Mr Panino round the corner. Why didn't I think of that?

The bus turned up bang on time at 16.01 and proceeded to deliver probably the most spectacular bus ride I have even taken (and I toured the whole of the US by Greyhound bus in 1973). The ride gives you an ending panorama of the villages on the eastern shore of the lake and at the time we were there, they were bathed in lovely warm light of the lowering sun. It was simple stunning. We shared it with I think 6 other people, 4 of them locals who obviously used it all the time. And on the other side of the lake the trains would have been full of other tourists who didn't know what they are missing. The train ride to Lecco is nice enough with some decent lake views but the views are often blocked by housing so not a patch on the bus ride on the other side.

The next day we took a trip no doubt familiar to many of you, using the route of the Bernina Express into Switzerland. We set out at 9.00 from Lecco but the train stopped about 20 minutes short of Tirano and we were asked to wait for the next train about 45 minutes later. That meant that we missed our connection in Tirano and instead took the 13.00 over the Bernina Pass. We were not on the Express tourist train but a regular service but on the same tracks of course. We were able to connect in Pontresina and then Samedan to get to Chur avoiding going into and out of St Moritz. Picking quick connections we ended up on a train to Zurich and then Basel an hour earlier than originally planned, despite the earlier delay. I don't think I need to describe the ride - it's well known and it's as good as everyone says. Lots of show of course at this time of year.

After an overnight in Basel we took the TGV Lyria and then the Eurostar back to London for a weekend with the family we had said goodbye to in Mallorca, before arriving home in Preston just after midnight on 15th March. Ironically 80 minutes late, but with the consolation of getting all our fare back as a result - it wasn't on the pass as we finished our 7 days in London.

We booked the AC Hotel in Bologna on Marriott points but all the other accommodation was booked by the agency as a package. All was perfectly fine hotels or B&Bs on a bed and breakfast basis. Some were larger hotels (Minori, Agrigento, Lecco and Basel) and the others much smaller and more characterful places. A special shout out to the lovely Soul Art Hotel in Napoli - it looks very unlikely from the outside as it's in a standard office block where it occupies the first floor but is dazzling white on the inside with lots of interesting art on display. And the B&B Sant Agostino in Palermo (shortly to upgrade itself to Palazzo Sant Agostino) was lovely too and well located.

Overall it has been a great trip and it was a joy to get away from airports and enjoy the culture, the food and the people of Italy. Trains are just a great way to travel.

  • Sorry I should have put this up earlier. Interrail is the European version of what those outside Europe will know as Eurail. It's two different branding but is essentially the same thing - you use the same app for example.
Posted by
9471 posts

Thank you so much, John, for sharing your adventures with us! And I am glad that your wife didn’t break any bones while you had so much more of your trip left.

I’ve only been to Palermo in Sicily, and your descriptions are making me think about more of it now. Wow, surprised that some of the tourist hot spots (Lake Como) are so busy even this time of year! I am seeing more tourists in the most popular places in Spain, too.

Had to laugh at your Italian bus ticket purchase story! ; )

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6911 posts

Thanks for this great report, John. We've wondered about doing this kind of trip, and it's good to know, it can be done!

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5402 posts

John,

I always enjoy reading trip reports, thank you for taking the time and effort to write it and for sharing it with us!
So sorry to hear about your wife’s accident.
Sounds like she made a quick recovery and was able to enjoy the rest of the trip.

I’m curious, did you bring a picnic on the long train journey from Siracusa to Rome/Milan?

What was the weather like during your trip?

Please share the names of your accommodations in Ortigia, Agrigento, and Lecco. Which was your favorite hotel or B&B?

I’m also surprised to hear about the crowds in the AC, and Lake Como. I always presumed that the crowds were non existent during the “off season”

When my mom and I visited Lake Como (Varenna) we enjoyed our day trip to Como via bus.
The bus rides along the mountain and the views of the lake down below are indeed spectacular.

Funny, we had to buy our bus tickets in the café near the ferry dock in Bellagio.

Thanks again for sharing your adventures with us!

Posted by
20 posts

Thank you for this informative and entertaining trip report. Most importantly, I’m happy to hear your wife recovered quickly from her fall. My husband and I are planning our first trip to Italy and your report has given me more areas to research.
Your post also made me reconsider one of my long-held thoughts. As a 14-year-old schoolboy you took a train to visit Pompei. For the last 50 years, I’ve thought I was lucky that as a 15-year-old schoolgirl I was able to take a school trip on a big yellow bus to Disneyland. Goodness, can’t imagine! I am so grateful I will make it there soon, though.

Posted by
3447 posts

This was quite an adventure! I am very glad your wife was ok. I thought for a moment that you were going to describe your encounters with the Italian medical system. Glad you did not have to.

For others-we were able to rent a car from Siracusa to Palermo airport through AutoEurope. The company was Avis I think and there were minimal drop off charges.

Posted by
941 posts

I really enjoyed your report. Sounds like a wonderful trip!

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1832 posts

On accommodation we stayed at the Hotel Posta on Ortigya. It's right next to Mussolini's grand Post Office, now a high-end Marriott Autograph hotel. Perfectly OK but nothing exceptional.

In Agrigento we stayed at the Colleverde Park Hotel. It's a largish hotel that deals with tour groups - there were two there for a night whilst we were there even in March. It's fine but again not exceptional, but what it does have is a great location on the slope overlooking the Valley of the Temples with a very large shaded garden altho will be excellent in warmer weather.

In Lecco we were at the NH Pontevecchio, unsurprisingly right by the old bridge. Again a largish place and a chain hotel. There seemed to be mostly business people staying when we were there but I would have thought it probably attracts tour groups in the season given its location.

I can't comment too much on the Italian health system as Anne was whisked away and I spent the time in Reception waiting and making travel plans. But I understand that she had quite an entertaining time with one of the doctors who kept asking her whether she was related to Lewis Hamilton as Hamilton is her middle name (she isn't). And it didn't cost us anything.

Given I think I've spoken about all our hotels now I think I should also give a mention to the agency that arranged everything for us. It was Byway, who you will see Mark Smith, the Man in Seat 61, recommends. They were extremely efficient in putting together the plan based on a conversation I had with them and they have a very responsive What's App group you get invited to, who will help sort out any issues whilst you're away. They are based in the UK but primarily everything can be done online or by email so I don't see why anyone based in North America could not use them.