3 Weeks 4 Capitals - solo in Warsaw (and the Baltics)

Motel One in Warsaw

I like this chain from prior stays in Vienna, Prague, Dresden and Frankfurt. This has potential to be the most fun one yet in terms of its Chopin-themed design.

The lobby, which I'll see more of at breakfast in a couple of hours, has piano key couches and piano music coffee tables.

View of the Chopin Museum

At first, I disliked how far my room was from the elevator (I like to be a few doors down) until I looked out the window to find a splendid view of the architecture of the Chopin Museum directly across the street.

Realizing how close it really was, and knowing the museum is free on Wednesdays, I decided to pop over for a visit. A bit of history about the man and lots of opportunities to hear his music and watch it being played put me in a Chopin- bright mood for the evening.

Dinner on Nowy Swiat Street

After the Chopin Museum, I decided to wander out to find dinner. I had a few restaurants identified, but decided to forego Google Maps. I randomly picked a direction and found myself on Nowy Swiat (New World) street.

It was clear that finding dinner was going to be tough because the street is lined with restaurants with outdoor tables. Plenty of Polish, and about anything else you relish. How to choose?!?

I found a menu with Zurek soup to get my first taste, and it was as good as I remembered from Krakow and especially Wrocław. I'll still have to find a bowl to beat the version I had there!

Sweet Temptations in Search of an ATM

I had some leftover Zloty, but would need more soon. I was determined to find something other than a Euronet machine. And the only price to pay to find one was to stroll along Nowy Swiat.

Sounds delightful! But it was terribly tempting to stop along the way for Polish donuts, French pastries and A Blikle chocolate. I made it through the caloric gauntlet and found myself at "the roundabout" and found a bank ATM. With the usual intimidating messages about not choosing DCC, I found myself with two 100 Zloty notes. I know some sweet places where I can get change for those later today!

Got a Spot on the Eat Polska Food Tour

There's an advantage to being awake at 2am
I was finally able to book my spot on the Eat Polska Food Tour that you all (and Cameron Hewitt) have raved about!

https://blog.ricksteves.com/cameron/2018/02/food-tour-warsaw-history-cuisine/

They have a minimum of 2 participants and won't book a single as their first guest, so I had to keep checking my dates until someone else booked and I could join.

So that will be Friday.

https://eatpolska.com/foodtour/warsaw/

Historical City Tour

This morning, I'm booked on the Warsaw Historical Group Tour by bus, booked in GetYourGuide. I've done such tours in Prague and Budapest and find they help me to 1) get oriented to a big city and 2) visit a few places in a short amount of time with logistics handled and my feet saved.

But first, breakfast. It's been light here since about 430am, so I'm just waiting for the lounge to open for breakfast. Maybe I'll go down early to do a little Chopin decor sightseeing.

Thanks for sharing your first day in Warsaw, I am looking forward to following along. Your food your sounds wonderful! I see you mentioned visiting Wrocław on a previous trip. I will be visiting later this year so I will have to search around and see if you have a trip report for Wrocław.

Meg, I did write a trip report for Wrocław!

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-wroclaw-and-swidnica

I'll have to go back and see what I wrote!

This will be very enjoyable to follow.
Thanks in advance for the fun ride!

I’m enjoying hearing about your trip in progress. Thanks for posting as you travel.

After one evening in Warsaw, I'm wondering why everyone doesn't come here!

Warsaw's a fantastic city. I've visited three times and would happily return. I've had some people query why I visited so there's clearly some preconceived ideas about the city.

Historical City Tour part 2

This was a wonderful way to spend a morning. It's as if we were on a half-sized RS tour and met up with our Warsaw-born guide for the morning, to be driven around town in a minivan with stops for 45 minute guided walks in Łazienki Park and Old Town.

The park (a museum, as they refer to it) is stunning; a perfect break from the city. And the tour is a great option to see a lot during a short visit to Warsaw.

With more time, I'm looking forward to returning to the park on Sunday to wander on my own through its parks, ponds and palaces. It's gorgeous on a summer day and I can't imagine how beautiful it must be in the fall.

With our guide, we not only heard stories about the history of Warsaw, but also her personal history of losing one grandfather in the Warsaw Uprising and another at Dachau.

I opted out of the bus ride back to my hotel, in favor of lunch and a wander around Old Town and a plan to visit the Warsaw Museum.

The weather is a perfect 73 and sunny, so later I will stroll cross town back to my hotel.

We spent 4 nights in Warsaw at the end of our Poland trip and wished we had more. It’s a city that definitely reveals itself slowly.
We had a lovely meal at Cafe Zamet which is located at the castle. If I remember correctly, there is a side entrance. It is an outside cafe with lovely views. Oh how I wish we were there now, such an beautiful country.

Hooray, a live trip report! Glad you made it safely and that the weather turned out in your favor. Look forward to virtually following along.

Thanks for letting us follow along. We plan to go to Poland next year and I know I’ll struggle to decide how to divide up our time.

there's clearly some preconceived ideas about the city.

Agreed, JC. One that I've read is the idea of Warsaw as an urban Disneyland, a nostalgic recreation of the city before its WWII flattening.

Just having left the "Warsaw 1945-1949: Rising from Rubble" exhibit at the Museum of Warsaw, I've replaced that idea in my head with images of the Herculean effort of clearing the 22 million cubic meters of rubble of Warsaw - done by men, women and even teens, often in manual assembly (or rather disassembly) lines - to begin rebuilding their city.

https://muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/wystawa/warsaw-1945-1949-rising-from-rubble/

"The exhibition presents a unique character of the city being rebuilt thanks to a collective effort. It follows the process of transforming ruins into rubble, and rubble into building material from which the Varsovians constructed their own future and the future of their city."

The exhibit runs through Sept 3 and is free today and every Thursday, when the museum is open until 8pm.

At the very least, I think the film showing the labor of the citizens amidst the destruction should be a permanent exhibition.

Andrea, I had planned a trip to Poland in 2020, after prior visits to Krakow and Wroclaw. It seems now that I am destined to visit Poland one lovely city at a time. I hope Gdansk will be next as I couldn't make it work with the geography of this trip.

"Glad you made it safely and that the weather turned out in your favor."

CL, thanks! Fingers crossed that my arrival day was the only rainy one. I used that as an excuse to take an Uber to my hotel rather than the bus, which involved some walking.

Speaking of Uber from the Warsaw Airport

Uber at the Warsaw airport worked in an interesting way. You set up your ride in the app just like at home. But instead of being assigned a driver, you are assigned a code and join the queue. When you're first in line, you show your code to the next Uber to arrive. The driver types in your code to connect him to your ride request.

It's actually quite sensible and avoids the mess I saw at the Lisbon airport with dozens of angry passengers waiting on cars that never seemed to arrive.

Love the up-to-the minute reporting. I’m looking through my Poland scrapbook and remembering our trip.
You definitely need to visit Gdańsk next time. It’s not a large city and we walked everywhere. They have quite a few interesting museums especially the Solidarity by the shipyards. We didn’t do any day trips because, like you, we immerse ourselves in a city.

Enjoy your time there CW, I will happily follow along.

Thanks so much for posting a live report! Fun to read with my morning coffee! The historical city tour with a local Warsaw-born guide sounds great!

Sounds like you're already having a great time! Will follow along for more of your report.

I'm slowly working my way back to my hotel, with a stop at E. Wedel for a very decadent bitter chocolate and raspberry concoction!

I'm trying to figure out whether to drink it or use a spoon, and making a chocolate mess with a bit of both.

I'm enjoying following along! Looking forward to more.

Thanks for bringing us along -- we can join in with the 'wow' moments!

Glad you're enjoying Warsaw! I'm currently in Krakow myself, it was really nice we had good weather finally here in Poland, been raining off and on for the past few days!

Well hello in Krakow, Carlos!

Tomorrow will be a lovely 74 and then a gradual warmup to 92 next week before it cools back down. I think I scored on the forecast, missing all but my first evening of light rain!

Sunday looks perfect for the Chopin concerts in the park. I think I'll try for both the noon and the 4pm ones.

Enjoy Krakow!

Thanks to everyone who is riding along!

There's no one here to pinch and say "we're finally here, isn't this fabulous!!!" Well, I could, but the stranger at the next table would think I was nuts 🤣

Thanks for this great mini report. It’s like we’re there. - almost. We loved Lazienki Park! Our Uber experience last year was very different from yours. Their already low fares were on sale. I think they were trying to get a larger part of the business and it seems that it worked.

We’re vicariously traveling with you. I hope you can keep us updated!

Just Pick The Table You Like Best

I have neighbors who are native Varsovians. When I saw them before I left, I asked if they had any restaurants to recommend. They kind of looked at me and smiled (poor girl, she has no idea) and said just pick one on Nowy Swiat, they're all good.

Well that's not the answer I was looking for.

But with a sample size of 3 eateries - one lunch, one dinner and one chocolate raspberry thing - and all in the tourist area, I know what they mean now...

There is an endless selection of restaurants on Nowy Swiat. All buzzing with energy. It doesn't take long before the menus all look the same.... you've got Zurek soup and mushroom soup, you've got some choices of pierogies, and a selection of house main dishes.

But what it really has come down to is.... where's my best view. Today's front row table at the chocolate place was pure European people watching at its best. I nursed that dessert for maybe an hour, with no pressure to give up my prime real estate.

If you don't like your table at this place, walk 10 steps to the next one!

Are the Smokers All in Sofia?

I have noticed that there haven't been a ton of smokers like there were in Sofia. Everyone. Smoked. There.

But here, there aren't so many. Maybe because I'm eating early? One guy was smoking today....a very loudmouthed, foul mouthed American.

I will continue to observe to see if this is a thing or just a few lucky non smoking meals.

Carol, that's interesting. No fare sale when I rode in. The opposite actually. The quoted fare was 60-ish PLN and the final bill was 80- something. It looked like a bunch of tacked on fees... airport fees (not Uber controlled) and a distance fee and some others. Unlike in Porto when I just declined the surprise amounts, there was no way to do that here.

The Uber line was about 10 groups of people, but with their system it was fast and organized.

I didn't realize that Bolt is based in Estonia, but I suspect Uber is trying to keep their market in Warsaw.

We ate at Podwale 25 Kompania Piwna a few times. It was recommended by our Uber driver and we enjoyed a few meals here. Zurek, potato pancake with goulash, pierogi, black sausage,and schnitzel were our favorites. Oh, I am missing Poland!!

I do love a live trip report!
I think it was you who did one from Turkey?
Looking forward to more…….

Pivot to POLIN

The new plan for today is the POLIN museum.

The 2 people who had signed up for the Eat Polska Food Tour today dropped out again. Maybe they didn't like it when I turned their tour into a threesome?

Saturday would have been a long day, with both the Jewish Walking Tour and POLIN. so this is better.

But oh, wouldn't I rather spend this gorgeous 73 degree day at Łazienki Park!!

I think it was you who did one from Turkey?

Yes, S J, that was me! I've tried it both ways now....a running report vs after. This is more fun by far!

Carol, thanks for the recommendation for Podwale 25 Kompania Piwna. I'll head there next time I'm in Old Town.

For today, I'll try the cafe at POLIN, which I think you also told me was nice. And convenient. I hope it's outside to take a break from POLIN.

This Thing Called An Exchange Rate

Last night I was booking my ticket for POLIN, which I did through GetYourGuide.

It's official, through the museum, but I had to confirm that because the price was so much less that it made me suspicious. 45 on the museum website and only $10 on GYG.

Wow, what a deal!! If it's real.

It wasn't until I'd convinced myself to book that I realized one was in PLN and the other in USD.

Good grief, can I still chalk that up to jet lag?

Alright, avirosemail, this "Wow" update is for you, our food lover.

The POLIN Museum Cafe is a delightful as I'd heard from the forum!

The layout is in the style of a traditional Polish milk bar, with food as stylish as the design of the space.

The Borscht is not the tasteless red broth that I'd feared, but jumbled with butterbeans and chunky beets, all nicely flavored with fresh herbs and spices.

The Roasted Eggplant is thinly sliced and cooked into a crepe that wraps around cheese and caramelized onions. I chose Moroccan rice and seasoned potatoes for my sides.

All served in assorted dishes inspired by traditional Polish crockery.

And finally fresh lemon and cucumber juice.

A phenomenal meal for 59 PLN, about $15.

I'll visit more of the museum and then come back for coffee and a mango dessert that's bound to be fresh.

I'm so glad I planned an entire day at the POLIN!!

The Roasted Eggplant is thinly sliced and cooked into a crepe that wraps around cheese and caramelized onions

oh will you please STOP!!!!! I'm trying to lose a few pounds and you aren't helping!!

Oh the whole thing sounds SO wonderful.

CW I wish I were there with you. We just got back from Germany and on the Hook of Holland to Harwich, Essex ferry we shared the lift up to the room with a young family going up to their room... Going home to Edinburgh where they have lived for 16 years, after giving the 3 year old a summer holiday in their original home, Warsaw. They were so torn - loving their adopted city and really missing Warsaw. Really wanted the little lad to see his heritage. I questioned them because I had never heard a Scottish Brogue with a Polish accent!

CW, it all sounds so wonderful!!! Poland is near the top of my list but you may have just bumped it up to the top. And like Nigel, I am salivating after reading those food descriptions! Borscht is one of my favorite soups and that one sounds incredible. Looking forward to following along on your adventure!

Lest We Forget

The POLIN Museum is a 1000 year history of Polish Jews. (Anti-semitism did not begin in the 20th century!) So these last couple of hours (I've been here for 6) have been the difficult ones. The wars and the deportations. And exterminations. The criminals, yes. And also those who passively observed but did not act. Some through their own silence of fear.

Liberty is stolen slowly.

19th April 1943, the eve of Passover. The Germans chose this date to liquidate the Warsaw Jewish Ghetto.

These months in 2023 are the 80th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. The remaining inhabitants hid in bunkers, in fear that any noise might reveal them. A cough. Or the cry of a child. Stifled to save the others.

The Museum stands on the spot where survivors hid. A temporary exhibition compiled from a few fragments of diaries tell their stories. Their Final Survival stories.

Nigel, I won't be losing any weight in this city! My mango lassi dessert, topped with a sprinkle of pistachio, a few pomegranate seeds and a swirl of cream was as fresh as I'd hoped!

Wish you were here!!

Well, Mardee, I hope I haven't put you off visiting Warsaw with that sobering description of these last few hours at the POLIN Museum.

If you visit, allow a day, several hours at the very least. With lunch and now coffee and dessert, I've passed the 6 hour mark.

I'm glad this wasn't my first day in Warsaw. And I'm looking forward to my rescheduled food tour tomorrow!

Time for me to get outside and enjoy the fresh air of Friday evening in Warsaw!!

Bright Clean Buses

Taking the buses in Warsaw is cheap and easy. I already feel like a pro. The digital signs inside showing the Next Stop (in English and Polish) make it stress free.

From Motel One, there are several buses just up the road on Nowy Swiat that will drop you off in front of the POLIN building. And from across the street from the museum, 6 or 7 stops and they'll take you right back.

Tip #1: Bus Tickets

This website told me everything I needed to know about Warsaw transit.

https://www.wtp.waw.pl/en/public-transport-step-by-step/

I had planned to use the Jakdojade app to buy two 72 hour passes for 36 PLN each. Instead I bought a paper ticket at a machine. Why?

Because the app allows you to add funds from which you can purchase tickets. But not in multiples of 36 PLN. You can add 10, 25, 50 or 100. But then what happens to any balance when you leave? "Wasting" money irritates me so I decided not to find out.

Tip #2: If you see a machine, buy your ticket

The ticket machines aren't at every bus stop. There's a nearby metro stop where I bought my 72 hour paper ticket, which I then validated on my first boarding. I'll buy my 2nd pass when I see another machine so that I'll have it when this one expires. (I could have bought them both at the same time but I wanted to make sure I knew what I was doing.)

There may be a different app that allows you to buy your ticket for the exact amount rather than with a fund balance rounded for their profits.

ETA: the app is a good trip planner, but Google Maps has worked great, including following along the bus stops en route to my destinations.

Multimedia Fountain: Disney 100 Magic

It's 8:20pm and I've staked out a good viewing spot for the 9pm Multimedia Fountain display, which this year presents "the legendary Disney animations that have taken over the role of the legends of our times."

Friday and Saturday nights, May through August:
https://www.inyourpocket.com/warsaw/multimedia-fountain-park_77575v

Me and hundreds and hundreds (thousands?) of my best friends!

I'm so enjoying your travelogue. I thought Poland might be somewhere I'd need a guide, but Warsaw, at least, sounds very visitor-friendly.

The POLIN Museum is a 1000 year history of Polish Jews

I get it.

Even here in England.

If you have any extra time, I recommend this somewhat offbeat site: Warsaw University Library Rooftop Garden (https://www.inyourpocket.com/warsaw/warsaw-university-library-rooftop-gardens_72857v). It's just a nice place to chill and oversee the city, and I loved being there. I figure you'll hit all the important places outlined on the main tourist site (https://warsawtour.pl/en/brochures/), so I thought I would mention a smaller, but still very satisfying place to see.

I have fond memories of Lazienki Park as a child, especially the brown squirrels and the peacocks. The Fall and Spring are particularly wonderful. I hope you enjoy your trip to Warsaw!

Polish Passegiata

I can now say that I've heard the "best of" Disney, in Polish, with a sing along from hundreds of Polish school kids and their parents. Brilliant!!

The entire city of Warsaw seems to be out on this fine Friday night. Families from the fountain show, couples, friends and some fire wielding street performers to entertain them all. The show ended at 930 so everyone is just sitting down to their Friday dine out.

I've heard French and Italian, mostly Polish - probably other languages I don't recognize - and occasionally an American.

All relaxed and enjoying this fine evening!

A Late Night Polish Snack

It's 1030pm and I'm having a savory pierogi sampler - Ruskie style with potatoes and cheese, spinach and goat cheese, something with mushrooms, and 4 different sauces and toppings, along with a glass of chokeberry wine - while I watch the Polish version of the passegiata.

Make that 2 glasses!! 🍷🍷

Agnes, I love your city! Love. It. I am insanely glad that I have 8 nights here.

And I love visiting gardens on my trips, so thank you for that recommendation!! I will be visiting the University Library Rooftop Garden.

Car-Free Tonight

There are no cars tonight on Nowy Swiat. Just buses, taxis and bikes. It's marvelous!!

(Next Morning ETA): this is different than P. 172 of the Warsaw section of the RS guidebook which says that buses do not run on the Royal Way from May to mid October.

It's actually really nice that the buses are right there on the main route, any time your feet need a break or you just want to get to your destination quickly. And buses aren't stuck in car traffic. Bravo Warsaw!

Clean as ... Disney?

I was beginning to think there was no graffiti in Warsaw, but I did see some tonight. No dog messes and only tiny tidbits of trash.

I wasn't going to comment on this... until....I saw 2 city workers scrubbing away at a street sign to clean whatever off it.

Granted, I haven't been outside the tourist center but some cities can't even keep that core presentable for citizens and guests.

I'm impressed, Warsaw.

Seating Tip for the Multimedia Fountain Show

For those of you who might come to Warsaw.... here are my Seating Tips for the Multimedia Fountain show.

1. Get there early; 40 minutes early was sufficient for good seating. If you want great seating, go earlier than that.

2. Find the huge screen TV and make sure you can see it head on. There will be English subtitles for the commentary and video clips to enhance the show.

3. The wall that surrounds the Fountain will be front row viewing. If you choose the wooden bench seating at the edge of the sidewalk, you'll need to stand on the benches to see over the heads of everyone standing between the Fountain wall and the benches. I stood on the benches and had a perfect view. The grass on the hill would also be good.

4. Plan to walk back to your lodging, along with the rest of the city of Warsaw!

Sure, Put the Tip on the Credit Card

Working off a small sample here, but I've been able to add the tip to my restaurant bills, but not cafe bills.

And the waiters I've had have all been trying really hard!!

"Sure, we can change our pierogi sampler to vegetarian."
"No worries, the kitchen is closed but take your time."
"Are you doing OK, can I get you anything?"

Lots of smiles and genuine pleasantries.

kayla.p., if you're comfortable in big cities, you should easily become comfortable in Warsaw. Lots of straight lines, known brands (e.g., Uber) and tap to pay. It feels like they want tourists to be happy here.

There are always advantages to traveling in the summer, your fountain show being one of them. And you can never eat too many perogies while in Poland.

I'm also enjoying the parts with the late-night pierogi and the wandering around city spaces -- what are the standout beverages so far? I ask b/c cucumber and lemon doesn't grab me but the berry references sure do.

I also like hearing about the cars being kept on a tight leash - but what about the motorscooters?

Barbara, you're right about advantages to summer travel. Normally I'm in Europe in May/June or October. This was a big change, which I decided to risk because of my northern destinations.

Warsaw is lively but not bursting. The weather is pleasant, not scorching. I'll expect some showers in the Baltics.

And hours more sightseeing sunlight!

ETA: and my suitcase was ~3 lbs lighter, with no packable vest, no warmth layers, no gloves, etc. I did bring my raincoat.

avirosemail, I haven't seen (heard) any motorbikes, but quite a few rentable, electric foot scooters. Those were on the street last night, and I saw a lady renting one with her phone in front of my hotel. But they're quiet.

Polish Painting Pride

I'm in the National (Art) Museum for a couple of hours before my afternoon food tour. The RS guidebook tour through the works of the top Polish artists has been a great way to get the most from my first hour, with the next 90 minutes on my own.

I love the feeling of having an entire room of colorful masterpieces to myself.

The museum is a perfect partner with the food tour, which begins just 400m from here.

Don’t miss the Gallery of Polish Design. As well as lots of perogies, I hope you’re getting your fill of pączki!

I'm sure it's on your list, but don't miss the Warsaw Uprising Museum!!

10 Course Meal

The Eat Polska Food Tour is a food marathon. It's not a sampler tour. A shot of vodka gets you started with: 2 soups, pierogi, Polish street food, 2 FULL sized main courses and a decadent "dessert."

Yes, khrystia, we had rose petal filled pączki during the tour!

Every course comes with a story, either the city's or the guide's. And several held in special locations with stories of their own.

So. Much. Food. I had to go back to my hotel and sleep it off!

Don’t miss the Gallery of Polish Design

I would have liked 2 more hours in the National Gallery, but picked a few galleries to focus. And I did get a quick glance into the cool Gallery of Polish Design.

Carlos, the Warsaw Uprising Museum is my plan for Monday. I wouldn't miss that.

I may also try to fit in the Ethnographic Museum. I thought that one was open on August 15, a national holiday. But it's not.

There are plenty of things to take its place on Tuesday: churches, Saxon Gardens, the University Library Garden if that's open.

A Holiday Saturday Evening in Warsaw

After my food coma nap, I'm sitting on some steps near the castle, listening to a guitar player who has everyone singing along.

There are thousands of people out tonight, strolling the Royal Way. Tonight it is truly pedestrian only; the buses are diverted to the next block. It's a stunning evening to be out in Warsaw.

I've been following one of the RS walks, reading the notes by electric lamplight - a good use of non museum hours.

I've been stepping into hotels to admire fancy lobbies and bars; diverting to visit the Tomb of the Unknown Soldiers; and... my favorite... looking at the display cases with pre-war Canaletto paintings, positioned to show how each painting helped the people rebuild each block of this Royal Route.

Not mentioned so far:

Neon Museum
Life Under Communism Museum
Pawiak Prison Museum
Colonel Kuklinski Intelligence Museum (Cold War-era spy for the CIA)

I am so glad you are enjoying Warsaw so much. It's been far too long since I have been there, but it's such a special place.

Thank you for taking us along with you.

Close to Midnight

The bars and cafes are still open. Street performers are still working for some late coins. The police dotted around are idly watching the still thousands of people enjoying the evening. The crowds are tending to lively younger people.

McDonald's was a machine, cranking out orders placed from the electronic boards. My ticket didn't pop out, I had to go back for it to get my late night how-can-I-be-hungry snack, which felt more like a curiosity than a meal.

I've walked nearly 11 miles today, more than 23,000 steps.

Oh, acraven, I have those on my just in case list, from one of your earlier posts. Even 8 nights isn't enough. Unless I want to forego the Baltics (I don't) I will have to come back. I can see why you extended your stay in this gold mine of a city.

I will have to do what I'm booked to do in Budapest in October.. come back when I can see a ballet! My version of event travel.

it's such a special place

Kim, you are so right. Reluctantly, I'm heading back to my hotel. Chopin and a day in Lazienki Park is tomorrow!

acraven, I've just checked the website for the Pawiak Prison Museum and they specifically say they are open on August 15th. My Jewish Walking Tour (which I've rescheduled twice, now to the 15th) ends near POLIN and Pawiak is not far so it makes sense to go there.

So thanks for the reminder of another place to check for Tuesday!

CW--

I'm just seeing this thread now and have enjoyed reading through it. I'm glad you made it to Warsaw! If you want a GREAT night view, consider a stop at the cafe at the top of the Chopin Boutique B&B. It offers great views of the Warsaw skyline. Enter the B&B, take an immediate left upon entering, take the elevator to the top floor, walk up the flight of stairs to the cafe.

Glad you enjoyed the fountain show. I was a little disappointed it was a Disney show instead of the traditional Warsaw show. The young adult kept saying, "Dave, this is for kids! Dave, this is for kids! Dave, this is for kids!" I don't think he enjoyed it. I finally gave up and left 🙂.

That Eat Polska food tour is great... but way too much food... especially when that second dinner plate gets dropped on the table!

Agnes--

Saw the Colonel Kuklinski museum from a distance as we were doing a short walking tour of the Old Town with a Tours by Locals guide. There was a picture of him on a banner outside. I said, "Ooh! That's Colonel Kuklinski." The guide said, "Since you know who he is, do you want to see his house?" He took us to see the house used as his home in the movie... I don't think it was his real home, too, but am unsure.

Dave, I'm glad to have made it! The planning was easy as I dusted off my itinerary from 2020, changed the dates and adjusted for the August 15 holiday.

I kept the 2020 notes for dinner at Folk Gospoda .... and might have gone there except that it has permanently closed.

Thanks for the tip about the view from the Chopin Boutique B&B. That was an easy location for the start of your food tour.

That second entree plate put me over the top. When she said there was still dessert, I never thought I'd manage, but (without spoiling the surprise) it was perfect!

I'll have to brush up on my Disney movies. Apart from The Jungle Book, some of the songs I can now say I've heard in Polish, but not English.

Tips: Chopin Concert at Lazienki Park

1. It took more than an hour by bus to get here
2. The buses were not running according to Google Maps routes or schedules (nor those of the Jakdojade app); maybe the holiday weekend? Still, with some trial and error at bus stops, I made it.
3. If you get off at the Lazienki Park bus stop, it's tempting to cross the street and enter the park, after which you'll walk down the hill and back up a steeper hill to arrive at the Chopin Monument where the concert is held. To avoid the unnecessary down/up, from the bus stop, cross the street and reverse back to the left to find an entrance on the right that brings you immediately into the location.
4. Arriving at 11am for the Noon concert, I snagged the last free seat on a park bench in the shade behind the Monument. By 1130, the shady grass was full with people on blankets. Latecomers, arriving 10-15 minutes before the concert, are sitting in the sun - still plenty of space - or standing clustered at the back.

I have always loved the precision of the Canaletto paintings, in my case Venice and London. I guess it makes sense that he painted elsewhere. So glad that his technique, so many years ago, could be used to rebuild a shattered city. wow.

It really is remarkable, Nigel. I wonder if the planned Museum of Polish History (in Lazienki Park) will document any of that. I didn't find an exhibit at the Museum of Warsaw.

Well, well Nigel...

Per this article:
https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2016/apr/22/story-cities-warsaw-rebuilt-18th-century-paintings

Canaletto "who was made court painter to the King of Poland in 1768, created beautiful and accurate paintings of Warsaw’s buildings and squares."

"When Warsaw was bombarded in September 1939, the Burlington Magazine for Connoisseurs wrote of its concern for the safety of" Canaletto’s "paintings – but in fact, all 22 street scenes survived the war. Since 1984 they have been exhibited in the Royal Castle’s Canaletto room."

I Found the Smokers 🤣

I stopped for lunch on my way to the Palace of Culture, heading towards its viewing platform.

The menu of Bliski Wschod, is "inspired by the cuisine of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt."

Everyone, except me, is smoking SHISHA. which I thought was Hooka, but "fruits such as pineapple and grapefruit are used instead of the bowl. This method prolongs smoking and allows you to feel the flavor better! And the shisha itself is filled to the brim with fruit."

All I can confirm is that they make a nice veg pad Thai 🤣

what a coincidence! Last night I had Pad Thai too! (non-veggie) at Wagamama to start the anniversary week celebrations - 44 years on Friday!

seeing those paintings alone would make the trip worthwhile

I’m enjoying your trip report! The food tour sounds wonderful, though quite filling. Thank you for sharing the link to your Wrocław trip report, I’ve been reading through it and making notes and saving places to my Google map.

13 Year Old Learned Piano on an App

I went to the Chopin Salon at the Chopin Boutique B&B where the RS tours stay. The concert was a lovely, intimate venue that could hold maybe 30 people.

You get a slice of cake and a glass of wine with your ticket. Except I didn't get mine. So I asked for it later and was sitting in their courtyard enjoying it, when I heard the piano again.

Hmmm, I'll go listen....

It's a 13 year old boy, playing. Marvelously. But, I thought, a bit mechanically. Curious. But hey, he's a kid.

When he finished, I asked how old he was. 13.
When did you start playing? Age 5.
Does your Dad play? No.
Does Mom play? She plays pop music. (Very seriously...) Not Chopin.

Who taught you? I taught myself.

Say what ???

You've never had lessons? No.

He learned by watching a sort of app on YouTube, much like old video games. While other kids learned to dance or play guitar, he learned to play Chopin. Memorizing pieces by playing them over and over again. Like a video game.

On Tuesday, he has a meeting at the university to see if he can get his first actual piano teacher.

Then his 20 something friend played a few pieces. (She's had real lessons.)

They take their Chopin seriously here.

Wow!

Ticket Tip: Warsaw Uprising Museum

If you are going to the Warsaw Uprising Museum on their free day (currently Monday) you can still "buy " it online, if you do so in advance.

On the day, this holiday at least, free tickets are not available online, though I can see them available for next week on the free day.

On arrival, there are two lines: tickets and entry.

If you need to get a ticket (free or paid) wait in line at the "Kasa" to collect/pay for it. They just hand you the free tickets. It's quick.

If you bought your ticket in advance (free or paid) you can go directly to the line for entry to the Museum.

The entry line is slow. If there are two of you needing tickets, one can wait in each line. Unless you're first or second in the entry line, you'll have your free ticket in plenty of time for entry.

Audio guides are available inside at the gift shop, which I assume is another line.

This holiday weekend free day is not an ideal time for this Museum, but here I am.

Don't Skip the Video

At the very end of the Warsaw Uprising Museum was one more line for the 3D City Ruins theater video.

It's one thing to read that the Nazis systematically destroyed Warsaw, block my block, calculating the charge required for each building corner. It's another to see it.

I find it impressive and hard to believe that much of it was rebuilt by 1956.

An Afternoon of Indulgences

From the Museum, with my new 72 hour transit pass in hand, I took bus 106 five stops to the corner of the leafy shade of Saxon Park, where I started with a gelato to fuel my wander.

I walked like I owned the place into the ballroom of one of the fancy hotels to the photo worthy ladies room.

And now I'm having my first ever Aperol Spritz (👍) and a sampler of fried pierogi (👍👍) at Zapicek.

Next I plan to admire the rebuilt Old Town, with a new level of respect for what that means.

I'm astonished at what Warsaw has accomplished in 80 years.

oh your life is so sad, CW, just a flapper that everybody bows to. Life is hard, eh?

If you like local shopping stalls and food halls, try "Hala Mirowska" which is not far from the Saxon Gardens ("hala" means hall in Polish, and there are several of them throughout Warsaw). Also the Norblin Factory: https://fabrykanorblina.pl/en/norblin-factory/

Nigel, I didn't see anyone bow, but I'm happy they didn't scowl or chase me out!

Agnes, I made my way tonight to the University rooftop garden. That was a perfect way to get off my feet and end my day!

I love my transit pass....3 stops on the bus and I'm back at the hotel.

Agnes, thank you, Hala Mirowska looks perfect for tomorrow. I had thought of going to Nocny Market today, but it says it didn't open until 5pm.

After a morning walking tour, my 2nd destination tomorrow is Pawiak Prison. Hala Mirowska, which looks to be open all day, is a straight tram ride away. And I've not taken a tram yet, only buses and the metro.

Another day in Warsaw coming together nicely with helpful steering from the forum!

Wonderful Gardens in Warsaw

It has been hard to choose which garden to visit in Warsaw. So far, I've visited 3 beautiful ones:

Lazienki Park - this nature "museum" (as they call it) feels like it's on the scale of Golden Gate Park or Central Park, with royal palaces - peacocks still wandering, but no royals - ponds and bridges and the Chopin Monument where they stage the free Sunday performances. It's amazing how the few thousands of Sunday concert goers can disperse into the enormous grounds and enjoy the walks and casual paths.

Tip - the group tour dropped us at one side of the park, walked us past the most beautiful areas and, after 45 minutes, picked us up on the other side. Or allow a long half day to do the same at your own pace with city buses. If I lived here, I would bring a picnic.

Saxon Park - just off the side of the Royal Way, this park is an easy anytime break from the busy city streets. It has wide, flat paths, fit for ladies in long gowns with parasols to stroll through the manicured gardens; and 21st century girls in more practical sundresses and tennis shoes.

University Library Garden and Rooftop Garden

Close enough to go for an hour, or stay to read a book or watch the sunset from the roof. Lots of students and non students relaxing in the grassy areas.

Tip to get to the roof: from any of the open street entrances, walk partway back into the park and look to the right to find the outdoor staircases that climb up to the small greenery covered dome and terraces. From the occasional seats, you can view the Palace of Culture on one side and the river on the other.

Summary
Saxon Park and the University Gardens are both great for an hour break from the city sights, or to take a break after a museum.

Lazienki Park requires its own plan, probably on Sunday with the free concert, in which case it's pretty much the entire day, allowing plenty of time for transit or a long walk.

Glad I Have 8 Nights in Warsaw

I'll have more to say on this!

Motel One Room Tip

I realized today that I paid for this "Room With a View" of the Chopin Museum and the park at the top of its elegant staircase - where all the brides and couples have been having their pictures taken.

3220 zł / $799 for 8 nights, booked back in January. Not bad for an elegant capital city!

How Much Cash?

I started with 90.65 zł / ~$23 from a prior trip and I've spent less than 30 zł cash in my first 5 days. Even the gelato cart in Saxon Park would have pleasantly taken my credit card. She actually seemed surprised when a tourist wanted to use cash.

Restaurant Tipping

I've asked a few restaurant staff whether they will get a tip If I put it on CC. The waitress at Zapicek yesterday made it clear that she would personally get it at the end of her shift.

She even helped by entering a suggested amount on the little machine - I took that as a token of efficiency, nothing more, as she very reasonably rounded up to the next even 10zł.

Cafes are different. I left coins.

I'll have to start using cash to give back the 200 zł I got at the ATM.

Hand/ Body Lotion

Agnes, where would I buy a good sized bottle of hand or body lotion? Would that be at an Apteka? Maybe at Hala Mirowska today?

ETA: Hala Mirowska, and most shops, are closed today. Many museums are open, as are restaurants.

People Smile Here

.... the security guard at Nożyk Synagogue, using a mirror on a stick to check the underside of parked cars. It opens at 10 (not 9) he told me with a warm smile.

August 15 Holiday in Warsaw

Leaving Pawiak Prison Museum today, I wondered where the fast paced stream of Polish people was headed.

A lady shared what she knew and so I followed along and was rewarded with the fly by of a serious show of NATO air power.

I'm often traveling during San Francisco's Fleet Week. And this wasn't quite the Blue Angels, but it was cool to see the jets and helicopters flying by Old Town, just past the castle and continuing beyond the National Stadium. One impressive formation was 2 jets flying off the wings of an airliner. I'm not sure if they were demonstrating protection for the airline or from it.

There was also a military parade, though I didn't make my way down to the Vistula River for that.

An interesting day to be in Warsaw!

Polish Armed Forces Day

https://polishatheart.com/why-is-15th-august-a-national-holiday

Just catching up! Sounds like the perfect trip so far - lots to see and lots of time to wander! It might have been me that told you about lunch at the Polin Museum. I loved both my food and my dishes. :)

Well, then thank you, Texas Travelmom. It was a very nice (and needed) break from the museum.

seeing those paintings alone would make the trip worthwhile

Then, Nigel, my work here is done! The Canaletto paintings are on display on the walls of an entire room in the castle. As they were apparently intended to be from the start.

yay.

Did the parades and flyover today remind you that you are in a country bordering Ukraine at all?

Congratulations on passing 100 posts...

Yes, Nigel, I was reminded that I am thankful to be in a NATO country bordering Ukraine.

Royal Castle Tip: the Art Display in the Basement of the Castle

I haven't been on a good castle tour in a while, so the Royal Castle was a welcome visit.

At the end of a long day that included a walking tour, a small museum and a long walk across town to watch the flyovers, I was reaching my limit.

But please do not skip the art installation in the basement - last room on the right, intentionally dark - where resides, in my opinion, their most astonishing work: Rembrandt's "The Girl in a Picture Frame."

Or, as the audio guide refers to her...
The Mona Lisa of Warsaw.

And, as with so many places in this part of Europe, I had her room to myself for viewing.

No long wait.
No queuing line.
No jostling for position.

This online version won't do her - and the light he painted her in - justice.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Girl_in_a_Picture_Frame

Wow. She is remarkable!!

ETA: apparently they think so too, she is on the reverse of my ticket stub.

Congratulations on passing 100 posts...

Hah! I guess I won't be including my next 3 stops in the Baltic Capitals in this thread after all!!

Nope - those need their own thread! It will make information easier to find.

I may not even have anything to say about the Baltics. I may have just been inspired by Warsaw!

Jewish Warsaw Walking Tour

If you're interested in seeing Jewish Warsaw, beyond the museums, you need to look beyond the Rick Steves book.

I am so very glad I took the Free (tip based) Walkative Jewish Warsaw walking tour.

Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable. But more importantly, the tour is well designed. It will take you to the few remnants scattered across the former Ghetto.

Two examples: a stretch of the Ghetto wall and an art installation that evokes the former bridge that directed the crossings from the Small Ghetto to the Large Ghetto, in the place of the original.

I could have stood in front of both and not known that either was even there. The guide had historical pictures of each place.

The tour ends at POLIN, so it could be a great opportunity to visit, if it's open that day. I had already been, so I walked to nearby Pawiak Prison instead.

Agnes, where would I buy a good sized bottle of hand or body lotion?
Would that be at an Apteka? Maybe at Hala Mirowska today?

For sure, any apteka, such as this one in the Zlote Tarasy mall: https://zlotetarasy.pl/en/shop/super-pharm
Maybe you'll even try a Polish brand? Or German? Or the one I love, Nivea (all the European versions seem better than there one here for some reason). It's fun to look at different products you don't find at home (of course, there are global brands too like L'Occitane). One of my favorite ones at home is an olive oil body lotion from Turkey...I love it!!!

What day are you on now, and how many do you have left? I was going to suggest the Cepelia store (Polish folk art that was both super popular and instantly recognized) but sadly I just learned that covid put the final nail in the coffin in the Warsaw pavillion store (https://www.inyourpocket.com/warsaw/cepelia-when-the-rooster-came-knockin_78308f). There is a store in Łódź, allegedly. Łódź is just a train ride away and also worth visiting if you run out of things to do in Warsaw. It used to be a major textile manufacturing center; it has some great buildings and a nice pedestrian street with lots of street art along the walls. (https://www.inyourpocket.com/lodz/cepelia_90545v)

What day are you on now, and how many do you have left?
Today was day 6. Tomorrow is my last full day before my flight to Vilnius on Thursday.

if you run out of things to do in Warsaw

Nah, that's not going to be a problem! At all.

I had Łódź and Plock on a last of day trips, if I needed them. I am keeping a list of things to do for my return visit, some year during ballet season.

Yes, I'd like to try a Polish brand of lotion, which makes an interesting souvenir. Thanks for the guidance for tomorrow, when everything should be open again.

I just returned from a trip and am feverishly catching up on your report. After visiting Krakow several years ago, we promised ourselves we would return to see more of Poland. I am taking copious notes from your report, especially on the museums, Jewish history sites and of course the food and restaurants you are describing!! Oh, and those parks . . . Ok, on everything.

If you make it to Zlote Tarasy, stop by Grycan (https://zlotetarasy.pl/en/shop/grycan) - delicious ice cream and "rurki" (simple, but oh-so-good pastry tubes filled with whipped cream - https://grycan.pl/en/oferta/ice-cream-parlours/tubes-with-whipped-cream/

There is a Polish chain called “Stara Mydlarnia” - something like the Body Shop - there a quite a few in Warsaw, so you should be able to find one close by. At least 8 different kinds of hand cream, and much more. You probably won’t come out empty handed.

Agnes - Cepelia was a such a nice store, I was so sad when I heard they closed. I love storks, and bought a wooden one in one of the Warsaw Cepelia stores.

Try Rossmann, it's a German beauty and cosmetics store, they have locations literally all over Poland.

Was it Tom Jefferson or Sam Goldwyn who said "The harder I work, the luckier I get"?

Whomever, your report reminds me of it because clearly the prep you did is positioning you to take advantage of what there is on offer and what comes along unexpectedly too.

This gives me a fun little treasure hunt today;

khrystia, there is a Stara Mydlarnia not that far from my hotel, so it will be a nice morning walk.

Agnes, I'm hoping that with the holiday over, the city might be less crowded this afternoon. I'll make my 3rd attempt for the views from the 30th floor of the Palace of Culture. And have a look around Zlote Tarasy.

Carlos, I've passed by Rossman's several times. I'll just have to find where that was on the map!

The harder I work, the luckier I get

I love this saying, avirosemail!

I've been very glad to have lots of options to swap in and out around this August 15 holiday. Most of the museums have free days, some of which I swapped into and others which I missed when an opportunity presented itself.

I've also been really happy with using OneNote on this trip, even more so than usual. The app makes it easy to move something from one day's schedule to another and easily see how my itinerary fits back together.

It's definitely been a week for flexibility!

we promised ourselves we would return to see more of Poland

bcerulo, I hope you enjoyed your own trip and I understand exactly! After the very pleasant surprise of my visit to Krakow in 2018 (my first venture beyond Western Europe), I worked Wrocław into a 2019 trip. And I had planned an all Poland visit in 2020.

This way has been different and fun, getting regular tastes of Poland, one city at a time!

Treasure Hunt for Hand Lotion

It's been fun visiting "regular stores" in search of my luxury item that I like to buy in country.

My visit to Stara Mydlarnia was delightful. The tiniest boutique with testers for every scent. And the most patient young clerk.

I saw a select few Stara Mydlarnia products at a Rossman's, where they were cheaper than the boutique store, but with far less selection.

(I'll go to Zlote Tarasy this afternoon.)

2 Story Exhibit of Colorful National Costumes

It was worth it for me to go to the National Ethnographic Museum just to see the costumes. Wow!

There are costumes from various regions in Poland and from the countries of Albania, Czech Republic, N Macedonia, Hungary, Latvia and more.

I spent most of my 90 minute visit in that display area.

Lunch at Hotel Gromada Centrum

I had admired the colorful wooden doors to this place on my way to the Museum. On the way back, they were open and I was drawn in to the restaurant in the basement of the Gromada Hotel.

It's colorful with bright Polish country motifs, has free wifi and great air conditioning and is a quiet escape from the city streets. And I have it all to myself for lunch.

I'm glad I ordered only Zurek soup because it was an enormous bowl!

And it's 100m from E Wedel, where I'm headed next for chocolate. Because one cup of their real-chocolate hot chocolate during our food tour was not enough!!

Thanks for this awesome trip report on Warsaw. I'll be there Sept 1 for a few nights before the RS Poland tour starts in Gdansk. I was looking at that same food tour and sorting through which Museums will fit in. POLIN is included in the tour and I've been thinking National Museum as the next highest priority. You've given me great info on Uber and using the local buses. I've moved Laz park higher up my priority list after reading. So many great ideas in this thread. Keep enjoying yourself!!

Oh my, I’m so enjoying your trip report. Fantastic. But, really I thank you for letting me discover that amazing Rembrandt. Wow, what a painting. Krakow is on my bucket list for the ‘Lady with an Ermine’ but now I see Warsaw must be visited as well. Spending hours in art museums is my happy place. Thanks so much for sharing.

MattAtlanta, I'm glad you're finding helpful information for your pre-tour days. You can see the National Gallery from the start point of the food tour.

The RS Poland tour looks so tempting. And it's coming right up, enjoy!!

Lyndash, I honestly couldn't tear myself away from her. And I couldn't believe how few people gave her more than a glance. If they relocated her to the Louvre and formed a queuing line, she'd give that other gal a run for her money. Instead, with most visitors there to see "castle stuff," she may be all yours to admire at your leisure.

A View From The Top And From The Trams

I've been revisiting the sights of my week. I rode around on a few trams to see them at street level, then was successful (3rd try) in riding to the viewing platform on the 30th floor of the Palace of Culture.

I was able to pick out the National Stadium and some churches and buildings along the Royal Way. Maybe it was better than if I'd been able to go earlier.

Dinner Splurge: Kamanda Lwowska

This RS recommended restaurant - which he calls the "best spot in central Warsaw for traditional Polish cooking" - is 5 minutes from my Motel One and 3 minutes from the tour's Chopin Boutique. The building is elegant with colorful flowers decorating the exterior. I ate on a garden patio with 5 or 6 tables.

My meal came to 116 zł (a bit less than $30) plus tip (first restaurant where I couldn't put the tip on the credit card) and included:

• Aperol Spritz, water
• fresh bread, spread and pickle
• huge portion of potato pancakes
• The Rick recommended, enormous pork rib roasted in honey
• side of gnocchi

Really, not that much of a splurge - I've spent more than that on pizza at home!

And the staff couldn't have been more friendly.

ETA: I just realized this was one of the stops on the food tour. We entered from the other side of the building, so I didn't even recognize it.

Like everyone else I am enjoying your trip along with you. We spent 3 weeks in Poland in 2018 and I can’t wait to go back. We were only in Warsaw for 5 nights and quickly realized it wasn’t enough. Not on many People’s radar. When we first told people we were visiting Poland they asked if we were Polish. When we answered, no, they then asked, why are you going there then.
Can’t wait to read more installments..

Thanks, Barbara! I've maintained an energetic pace to see what I wanted - while still allowing lots of time for gardens and some less directed tram excursions.

The Jewish Walk the other day had 3 guides - for a German group, a Spanish group and our English group, which was by far the smallest. And few of those were native English speakers.

Interestingly, one bright young tour member was American. She just graduated from the same top tier University that my nephew did. (Small world.) Her friends were wondering why she was going to Warsaw - she told me she loves history and architecture.

She said she was trying to travel slower than her friends. Some of them were going to Amsterdam for 1 day, while she was spending 2 whole days in who-goes-there Warsaw!!

I told her I was in Warsaw for 8 nights. She hoped she could travel like that some day. I assured her she was on track for it.

It was fun to meet an energetic young person so enthusiastic about travel. And so excited about Warsaw for all the same reasons I was.

Bus 175 to Warsaw Chopin Airport

Bus 175 leaves every 10 minutes from Nowy Swiat with 20 stops and about 35 minutes to Warsaw Chopin Airport.

My 2nd 72 hour transit pass has enough time left to get me there, still within its Zone 1 Central Warsaw validity.

ETA: there aren't luggage racks on the bus, but each seat has enough leg room to squeeze in your small roller. The bus drops you right at the terminal.

It's a smallish airport - think Oakland, not San Francisco. Free Wifi.

There's a milk bar type place at the airport: Bijanka. Good food, but airport prices. And a Burger King.

good luck with the next leg of your adventure!

Thank you, Nigel!!

Thanks to all for letting me rave about this lovely week in Warsaw. Thanks to the experts for your ideas and suggestions. You've helped make this an exceptional visit!

I'm loaded with Made in Poland hand lotion for the rest of my trip and for small gifts back home.

For those visiting Warsaw, soon or someday, I'm happy to answer questions here or in messages.

On to Vilnius!!

My strongest memory of Warsaw airport:

A 40ish-year-old guy was dragging his roller board behind him, vomiting a clear fluid every 5 seconds as he walked. He didn't break his stride -- he vomited; it hit the ground; he continued walking like vomiting was a normal part of that activity. The vomit was watery. Once he passed, other passengers rolled their bags through his vomit, thinking it was just water.

Couldn't hold his drink, literally!

Dave, that image is NOT how I needed to start my morning…. 🤣🤣🤣 Some things you just can’t unread. Lol!

CW, I am glad it was a wonderful week! Upward and onward!

CW, the Vilnius Airport is an example of Classical Soviet architecture. When leaving, turn around and look at the terminal, you will see all of the Soviet statues on the facade. Another example of Classical Soviet architecture is the Sports Palace.

Enjoy Vilnius, I was there for a week in 2019 and took a walking tour on Soviet Architecture.

I am a history/WW2 buff, as a result, visited Ponary. I had researched it before visiting and was the only person there. When I inquired about going at the TI, they were surprised I wanted to go there. I took an Uber to get there, but could not get one back, so walked to the near by train station to return.

Oh Dave, I'm so glad I read this after I landed in Vilnius, and not while I was having lunch there. I'm very glad you have better memories of your visit!!

Traveler99, I did get a good look at (and photo of) the Vilnius Airport from the Bolt ride stand.

Symmetry: A+
Creativity: D-
- at least the center arches above the entrance have some visual interest

I'll keep my eyes open for their Sports Palace. I probably could have followed the French (football?) team off my flight to find it.

Thanks, Texas Travelmom! Looking good in Vilnius so far. Off to see it!

Thanks for this great report! I enjoyed reading about the places we didn’t get to. Looking forward to reports on your next stops!

Thanks, Carol! I've started a separate report for the 3 Baltic Capitals:

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/3-weeks-4-capitals-solo-after-warsaw-in-3-baltic-capitals

Nigel, I hope you have had a pleasant anniversary weekend. Congratulations on 44 years!!

thanks CW

It was special and we were made a fuss of. A completely successful weekend. Great time at National Trust Ham House and Gardens too.

Looking forward to the new trip report

(I just added some links to various museums and restaurants.)