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I've just spent 3 lovely days in Arundel, as part of a longer visit to England. I'm writing about this segment separately, for anyone who's looking for an easy trip outside London.
Arundel appears to be a very kid friendly and dog friendly place, with "dogs welcome" signs in shops and eateries. And I saw plenty of families enjoying the attractions, including at the festival this weekend at the castle.
WHERE I STAYED
Swan Hotel, Arundel Town Centre
• It's a hotel and pub with an absolutely wonderful chef!
• I stayed in a Cozy Room, which didn't turn out to mean small.
• The amenities included bathrobes and slippers, coffee, tea and little chocolates.
• Breakfast includes a limited cold spread of cereals, croissants and juices, plus a cooked choice from the menu. I can recommend (after 3 samplings!) the smashed spicy Avocado on toast with poached eggs.
My room was waaaay at the end and very quiet, except when the door opposite opened or closed late at night, which wasn't often. Zero street noise even though it was a busy, sold out weekend.
The hotel is steps from shops, cafes, pubs and restaurants. It's just across the road from the river and a 2 minute walk from the castle entrance.
The staff are very attentive and look for ways to be helpful. A theme I discovered in Arundel.
One consideration: the hotel is staffed until 11 or 1130 each night. After that, the doors are locked and you had better have your clunky, old timey room and outside door keys with you or you'll be tossing stones at windows in the hopes of another guest waking to open a door for you!
WHAT I DID: Arundel Castle
I had visited Arundel Castle, once or twice, about 30 years ago when I was living in England. It was an easy 1 hour drive from home.
The only thing I clearly remembered was the library, so I decided to go back. And I am so glad I did. I had an entirely new appreciation for it. And it set me up to enjoy learning more about the castle at the Arundel Museum.
The library is very near the end of the visit, so I had a lot of anticipation: visiting the keep, the sitting rooms, the bedrooms. Oh, and the glorious dining room, which used to be the Chapel. They had to bump out the Chapel wall during renovations to make the dining room suitable for modern day entertainment by a Duke.
And the Canaletto room! With 3 of his paintings. I had no recollection.... probably didn't know who Canaletto was when I first visited. My mouth must have dropped open when I walked into their display room. I wonder if that will be the memory that sticks in my mind for the next 30 year visit!
Buying Your Ticket: we bought ours at the entrance gate. Those who had purchased online had their own queue, but there was no waiting at 10:30 when we arrived.
Visiting tips: the bedrooms are not always open to visitors, depending on other events and whether the family are using them for their visitors. Yes, the current Duke lives in a wing of the castle that is not open to the public. The Victoria Bedroom is currently closed for renovation.
The Gardens: ideally, go on a day when you can wander the gardens. They are stunning! The gardens and the keep open earlier than the interior of the castle, so you can see those first.
Interior Tour: you're free to wander at your own pace, following the path. In May on a Friday before a bank holiday and the castle festival, the castle was decidedly not crowded. No shuffling behind other visitors. No peering over shoulders. It was very relaxed.
The staff: the docents are deeply knowledgeable, surpassed only by their eagerness to share their knowledge. Sometimes you don't even know what to ask, but ask them any small question and they'll lead you into information that you didn't know you should ask about. They were fascinating and very generous with their knowledge. Clearly, someone has set a very high standard.
As a tiny example, as we were leaving, we asked one docent how to get to the public (Anglican) side of the Fitzalan Chapel. Rather than making us walk all the way around and uphill, he drove us in his golf cart.
As a bigger example, I asked a dumbfounded question about the Canaletto paintings, and the young guide just continued to tell me more and more while I smiled and urged him to continue!
They just try really hard to find ways to be helpful.
How much time to allow: a nice pub manager in Chichester told us she spent 3 hours at the castle. We spent about 6 including the gardens and both sides of the Chapel. I do tend to read the information signs. And we had a bite in the castle Cafe.
Closing thoughts: I'm so glad I went again to this magnificent castle. I learned so much and am very glad that we had the entire day for the visit.
WHAT I DID:
Arundel Wetlands Centre and Swanbourne Lake are near each other and an easy 10-15 minute walk from town along the Arun River. On a footpath until the last little bit. Well, and even then the map says there is a footpath, but it's just the markings along the side of the road.
Along the way are uphill views of the magnificent castle. And a Swan family of 7 seemed used to visitors, although mom and dad occasionally expressed their displeasure with overly intrusive cameras.
Arundel Wetlands Centre is a perfect way to spend a sunny afternoon. Another kid friendly option, this wildlife conservation centre has habitats for the resident pelicans, swans, ducks and geese, with constructs for specialized feeding, nesting and raising young. There are "blinds" where photographers and bird watchers can unobtrusively watch the wildlife.
Swanbourne Lake - as you return from the Arundel Wetlands, the lake is just at the bend of the road as it heads back towards Arundel. This is my imagination's perfect lake, with its mostly shaded path that I could easily walk with my dog. Every single sunny day.
There is a 1 mile path around the lake with gentle ups and downs, no hills. At the far end of the lake, steep and strenuous paths lead up to the castle and back across to the other end of town. You could get your exercise if you wanted. I took the easy route, along with prams and grannies with canes, for the lake views.
You can also rent a boat for a leisurely row.
I've been looking and looking for a town with a footpath along a river - like Boise has. And a lake with a footpath all around it, like Lake Bled, but much smaller.
Arundel has both!
WHAT I DID
Arundel Museum - presents the town history, from local pre historic finds, to Roman digs, to modern day. Much of the history is presented through the eras of the Dukes of Norfolk, especially those who invested time and funds in the many restorations and renovations of the castle. Located at the bottom of town, directly across from the castle entrance. I spent one hour, reading most of the signs, including the temporary exhibition about the restoration of the castle.
Arundel Cathedral - gorgeous, and new in the scheme of British history, dedicated in 1873. Outside of services, you could easily have the place to yourself. If you feel like making a donation, it's made easy with contactless stations. It's a hike, up to the top of town.
Amberley Museum
This is an open air Museum for industry and technologies. They've relocated buildings from the south of England that have to do with trades like broom making, iron works, and more modern industries like fire fighting, electricity and electrical appliances. Any time a historical industrial building is set to be demolished, they try to claim it.
One exhibit showed the evolution of the UK electrical adapter. I wish they'd have stopped the evolution at some of the earlier, smaller designs!
Kid Friendly - this would be a great day with kids, with lots of hands on, give it a try exhibits.
Getting there:
• This is a quick, 1 stop journey on the train from Arundel. The Museum entrance is directly across the road from the Amberley station and then a short walk to the visitor center. It's 2 for 1 if you arrive by train.
WHERE I ATE
The Edible Sandwich Co, with outdoor tables at the edge of the river, made delicious fresh sandwiches and other lunch only options. After eating there the first day, the setting made me want to eat there regularly - but I never got back.
The Swan Hotel's Sunday Roast was superb. For €33 I had a mushroom soup (fantastic) plus a full Sunday roast dinner and a non alcoholic drink, with 12% service added, but optional. I had a vegetarian nut roast earlier in Chichester and decided to try it again in Arundel. Fabulous both times! (I'm not vegetarian, it just sounded good.)
There were lots of pubs, each with its variations on classic pub dishes. Their menus have blended together in my mind.
When the Italian place was booked on Saturday night, we had dinner in the casual and reasonably priced Thai Time. My Drunken Noodles with Prawns were great, and spiced just as I requested.
There's a high end restaurant called The Parson's Table. I didn't even try to go there without a reservation on a bank holiday weekend.
GETTING THERE
By train: 46 minutes, no changes by train from Gatwick. 1hr 30-ish, no changes by train from Victoria Railway Station, London - if you choose the right departures.
We arrived by train from Chichester, which involved a simple change... get off the train, stay where you are, get on the next one to Arundel.
From Arundel back to London, there are a limited number of time specific, Advanced Saver fares for less than £10.
Ticket buying tip:
Southern Railway doesn't have an app for Android... they say they're working on it. But it's easy to buy the tickets on their website, open the email, and either print/download the tickets or use the two handy buttons to upload into Apple/Google Pay. Be sure to upload both your outbound and return, if applicable. Otherwise, the nice ticket checker will wait while you find your return ticket. Per my experience;-)
Arundel Train Station is a 15 minute walk from town, a bit bumpy with luggage and a couple of road crossings. But the view of Arundel Castle as I walked in towards town built my excitement.
Thanks to isn31c for helping me keep an eye on the possibilities for engineering works which, in the end, didn't affect my journey. So very kind!
PAYING FOR IT
The only thing I had need for cash was tips for hotel staff. In restaurants, I was able to add tips to my credit card payment, and assured that the staff would get it. The churches and cathedrals had contactless donation stations. Hotel bills, restaurant tabs and tips, food and drinks in pubs, museum entries, all contactless. I've not used my physical credit card once.
I was using my physical card on the tube in London, but that's not this trip report. And it's only because I didn't want to be banging my phone around at the tube entry and exit gates.
DID I FORGET ANYTHING?
Oh, how about...
A Couple of Cute Shops
Tea lovers will like the tiny Tea and Biscuit shop, with every imaginable flavor neatly displayed, from floor to ceiling, in little sample sized packets or large take home tins.
There's also a little Roly's Fudge Pantry where they make their own "crumbly" fudge. I didn't dare go in, but I could see the candy maker at work inside.
DID I FORGET ANYTHING? (cont)
PLACES FOR NEXT VISIT
Bignor Roman Villa was on my list for a little day trip from Arundel. But I had enough to keep me busy and had seen other (very interesting) Roman ruins (Fishbourne Palace being quite a good example) while in Chichester.
There are a lot of Roman ruins around here, and more being dug up every day it seems, including recent finds in Chichester.
Sounds great. Looking forward to the rest of your TR,
I MET A GUY...*
I met a couple at breakfast one morning who asked me where I was from after hearing my accent when I placed my breakfast order.
He said he can trace his ancestry back generations and generations to an early king! He's something like a 7th cousin to someone in the Royal family. I didn't fact check him! I feel like I'm doing well if I can trace my family back to their various immigrations!
They also impressed me because they, late 70s, were on a 100 mile walking trip around the south of England, with a mini bus that transfers their luggage. Bless them!!
CW, your headings are very entertaining! Can't wait to read the rest! :-)
CLOSING THOUGHTS
I chose Arundel because I vaguely remembered it from an earlier visit and wanted a very small town by a river that I could walk along. Arundel turned out to be perfect for my little vision! I walked the riverside path from town out towards Swanbourne Lake several times, enjoying the views from below of the castle and the views along the path of a family of swans.
A few times, I continued on to Swanbourne Lake and walked the path around it. I couldn't have been any happier, except perhaps to have my dog with me. As it was, I got to say hello to lots of dogs on the path.
I could see myself spending a month in Arundel, walking that footpath and the path around the lake every sunny day.
CWsocial, thank you for posting about Arundel. I’m eagerly waiting for the rest of your report.
For next June before my RS South England tour, I am thinking about a couple days in Arundel. Your report is a tremendous help.
I like your trip report format, laying out consecutive individual posts by topic to be able to post an uninterrupted trip report. Oops, a little premature. Should have said almost uninterrupted.
Oh, Mardee, please don't delete your post! That's half the fun of not posting it quite all in one go!
I'm back in London and headed out to explore my new neighborhood around Victoria Station.
I'll add more of my entries a bit later!
Oh, Horsewoofie, I won't be able to say enough good things about Arundel!!
Festival at Arundel Castle
The Duke of Norfolk keeps Arundel Castle very busy with events to draw visitors. You may wish to check "what's on" at the castle during your visit, especially to see if it will mean any interior closures:
https://www.arundelcastle.org/whats-on/
This bank holiday weekend was the Medieval Festival, with "two skirmishes each day, falconry demonstrations, medieval music performances, fire eating, and artillery demonstrations, there is plenty to transport them back to England's historical turmoil."
We chose to go the day before the festival, when the bedrooms were open to visitors. I could hear the festival canons from across town at the Wetlands Centre, where the inhabitants looked none too pleased!
Loving it!!
Gold star for paragraph titles.
DID I FORGET ANYTHING?
Yup... I mean, acres of white space LOL
Oh, lovely white space, eagerly waiting for Arundel superlatives such as friendly, helpful, welcoming, and even chatty!
Oh, Mardee, please don't delete your post! That's half the fun of not posting it quite all in one go!
Okay, I won’t! And I’m really really looking forward to the rest of it!
I love Arundel, the town and the castle. Was there recently. Looking forward to reading more C!
We were in Arundel two years ago just before the Queen died. Arundel is owned by the Duke of Norfolk who is the Earl Marshall for the crown. He is in charge of weddings, coronations, and funerals of the Royal Family. We went to see the castle and had a drink in the pub of the Swan Hotel. I am enjoying reading your trip reports and also Mardee's because we are planning a trip this September for several weeks.
CWsocial,
I have tried working Arundel into my itinerary a few times. Thanks for posting! Now I know it's worth it!
Just added the content for:
WHAT I DID: Arundel Castle
Thanks for this report. I am adding Arundel to my England bucket list.
jobeck52, you've reminded me that the castle has a small room of display cases highlighting the current Duke's role in the funeral of Queen Elizabeth II and the coronation of King Charles. Oh my, I know how much work it is just having my neighbors over!
ETA: by "small room" I mean by Arundel Castle standards. I think it's bigger than my largest bedroom.
Ok, a few more sections uploaded.
I'm so glad to see the interest in and enthusiasm for Arundel. It's a lovely town, where I heard very few American accents. And lots of real life happening.
At my hotel the first night, I was the only guest who wasn't part of a business group gathering. The next nights, the hotel and restaurant were booked by a wedding party.
So apparently, I book my hotel rooms further in advance than business meetings and even weddings!
Oh, I am dying to head to this wonderful town now! The castle sounds absolutely fascinating, and I really really want to stay in a "cozy room." I can't wait for more information. Type faster, CW!!!! (just kidding ... sort of). ;-)
@jobeck, where are you going to in England? I'm ready to go back!
Content uploaded for Arundel Wetlands Centre and Swanbourne Lake. And the lovely little path along the river.
all that lovely white real estate - acres and acres - all developed now bar a couple of small hillocks !!
good work CWsocial!
Thank you, Nigel. I've just added Where I Ate. I think that may be a wrap, with just one more little empty space in case I think of anything else.
Time to focus on my launch tomorrow back into London.
Hey there, brilliant TR & I like the idea of separating them into distinct destinations, easier to find later. Thanks very much, sounds like a lovely few days destination from Gatwick... hmmm where to fit this into our next trip?! Hey since there's no mention of the rain, must have had sunny skies?? Thanks again, really perfect.
Sunny skies each day! Some rain after midnight the last night. I cut my walk around the lake short the last morning when it was clear my tennis shoes were going to be muddy.
The walk to or from the Arundel Train Station would be less fun in the rain.
Quick English History Lesson
You've heard the British memory trick for the wives of Henry VIII?
Divorced, beheaded, died.
Divorced, beheaded, survived.
Well, the 3rd Duke of Norfolk (Thomas Howard) was responsible for those 2 beheaded ones. Yes, that guy! The current Duke seems much more clever than his distant, political scheming relative.
I love the sound of those shops, and the restaurants all sound amazing. I only had one Sunday roast when I was in England and I'm dying to get back and have another one!
I keep thinking about going to England and maybe spending 3-4 months there in one place. I have been sort of turning ideas over in my head about where I could stay, and Arundel just made it to the list. It sounds so likeable and interesting, and easy to get to!
Thanks so much for this, CW!!! I love your report!
Arundel is idyllic, for sure! And I could stay there a quick month. For a practical town for a longer visit, I might consider Chichester.
The Arundel Boots is teeny tiny, smaller than a walk in closet in some new houses.
There wasn't much of a grocery store in the Arundel town centre. Not even a small city one, such as in Chichester, with sandwiches and a couple of aisles of simple staples for an extended stay. Those places must exist for the residents, but maybe not right in the tourist zone? For 3 days, I didn't really look for them.
Chichester has more of a real life town centre. With a population of about 33,000, it is roughly ten times the size of Arundel. Chichester does sit along a river, and I saw a bike path. But I was too busy sightseeing and visiting nearby towns to explore them. They might be nice, even if not so fairy tale as Arundel.
My fairy tale stay would still be in Arundel.
Hi CW! I enjoyed your report. Enjoy the rest of your trip.
Arundel is so cute! Here are some of my short thoughts.
Arundel Cathedral: only 150 years old but very medieval looking. I wandered in as the organist was rehearsing, so I had my own private organ concert for a few delightful moments,
St Nicholas Church: originally constructed in 1063 and rebuilt in 1380. Periodically they play vocal recordings of songs from the 500 year old Arundel Choir Book, one of only 3 Medieval English choir books to have survived to the present day. There is a reproduction on display but the original is the Lambeth Palace Library. This church is also joined by a transparent glass wall to the Catholic Fitzalan Chapel, which is only entered from the Castle grounds - you can only enter St. Nicholas from outside the palace grounds.
Arundel Castle: a fabulous castle! The castle keep is 1000 years old and the gardens are so beautiful.
Did I forget Anything? How about a little jazz concert in the Arundel Jailhouse - down in the arched stone ceiling-ed basement?
What a lovely report. The lack of a village store surprised me. One isn't even mentioned on the Visit Arundel website. Google maps eventually yields one- Hillside Stores- in the residential part of town kind of below the Hospital. And there is a Co-op the other side of the bridge from the Museum, on the back way to the railway station, and a Morrison's Daily, opposite The Swan Hotel (a tiny looking store).
But they aren't obvious.
The Co-op looks to be the best bet. It says it has a Bakery.
Thanks, TexasTravelMom, for those additions!
isn31c, I'd forgotten about the co-op, which did look more promising than the Morrison's Daily, which seemed sufficient to quiet a small child in need of a snack. In the same area, there was a very nice looking butcher shop and a grocery with cheeses, quiches and pasties in a case. I could have made a nice picnic lunch from there one day!
I saw the Gaskyns Coop on there, but there are quite a few grocery stores about 4 miles south of there in Wick and Rustington.
At any rate, it's on my list for a future trip. Thanks again, CW and TTM!
CW, I really enjoyed reading about your time in Arundel. Thank you for sharing this experience. I went to the castle way, way back in 1983. My husband was stationed in Germany and we took a long camping trip into England, wales, and Scotland. I definitely remember going to the castle and learning that the Duke of Norfolk stayed Catholic through the reformation which must have been quite a trick. I do think one of them lost their head during Elizabeth’s reign, however. The family is still Catholic evidently.
Thanks for a great report, CW! Sounds beautiful. Arundel and Chichester sound like places I need to visit. Thanks for adding places to my list ;)!
Lyndash, cool that you visited the castle. Good memory about the Dukes.
Mardee, and Carol, hah, always happy to help fellow travelers add to their lists for future trips!!
Mardee, I have really enjoyed your trip reports on England. We are going at the beginning of September and plan to spend a week in London. I have lived in London and as a college student traveled around Great Britain for 6 weeks. I want to go to Bath, Chester and York for sure. I would like to go to Cornwall. I haven't been to Wales yet and want to spend several days or maybe a week driving around. My great grandmother was from Wales. Then I want to spend some time in Scotland. Although I have been to Edinburgh and Inverness many years ago, I would like to go again. I want to go the Isle of Skye. Your trip report has given me some good information.
Super trip report!
Thanks for all the details and the transportation information!
Putting Arundel on one of my future itineraries for sure.
I am impressed by your energy level, CWsocial!
And by your trip planning.
Thanks for taking the time to write this great report.
I've enjoyed reading it.
HI Re Taxi Cabs
Thankyou for providing such detailed information. Exactly what I needed.
If it happens to be raining as we trundle our luggage from the station to the village are there any taxicabs around.
Thank you
Anne
I did see taxicabs at the station each time I came and went during the daytime. We also used Uber in the area.
