When I visited Andalusia for the first time in 2016 with my youngest daughter, in addition to wonderful things to see, it just felt like the perfect place to relax. I knew the time would come for a return - and that time was this year as the last 2 weeks of a 5 week trip. So I arrived from Budapest with no jet lag, ready to enjoy, and my oldest daughter joined me for the Cordoba - Madrid portion.
Segovia, a new stop for me: 2 nights on my own.
I arrived at the Madrid airport Terminal 1 early afternoon and it would have been easy to take the bus to Terminal 4 and the train from Terminal 4 to Chamartín-Clara Camoamor, then catch my train to Segovia. But I splurged on a taxi (€30 flat fee) straight to the station from Terminal 1 and then took my train to Segovia Guiomar, which sits quite a ways out from the city. Bus 11 (€2 to the driver) meets the train and whisks you 3 stops to the old city - get off facing the aqueduct!
Highlights:
The aqueduct absolutely. To see this is why I came. It is a lovely city and I am happy I gave it 1 full day.
Also Saw: the Cathedral, views of the Alcazar, and wandered streets.
Stayed: Hotel Infanta Isabel right on Plaza Mayor.
Travel onward: Bus 11 to the station, train to Chamartin, then a Cercanius to Atocha, then my train to Toledo. It sounds complicated but was actually very simple.
Toledo a new stop for me: 2 nights on my own. Because of the distance and hills, I took a taxi from the train station to my hotel.
Highlights:
The streets. Uphill, downhill, narrow. On one particularly narrow street, I noticed a trough had been hollowed out of the stone building that allowed the right mirror of the taxi to just fit. I had a day and a half here and wouldn’t have minded more.
El Greco. When I was in about 5th or 6th grade, I read a biography of El Greco that somehow made him real for me in a way most painters aren’t. I was here for that.
Saw: Museo del Greco, Sinagoga del Tránsito (museum) - these two were free on Sunday - and Iglesia de Santo Tomé for “The Burial of the Count of Orgaz.
Also Iglesia de los Jesuitas, Ermita "Mezquita" del Cristo de la Luz. These were €4/each but you can buy a wristband for €12 that gives you entrance to these and several other places. And the Cathedral. Of course, I walked a lot more but this is what I fit into (almost) 1.5 days. And so much I missed.
Stayed: La Posada de Manolo, the cutest place!
Travel onward: taxi to the station and train to Madrid Atocha, where I met my daughter who flew in for the next 10 nights. We took an afternoon train on to Cordoba.
Cordoba: 1 night.
Highlights:
The Mezquita. This was my second visit and it’s just as impressive. Row after row of arches and the elaborate elements of the original mosque, then to suddenly find the cathedral in the center…. Of course, there is more here and we wandered some of it, but this remains the highlight for me.
Stayed: Hotel Eurostars Maimonides, right by the Mezquita.
Travel onward: Short train to Seville.
Seville: 4 nights.
Highlights:
the graciousness of the old city. It is a place to enjoy and relax. However, places I love are:
the Plaza de España, for its architecture, beauty, color, and vibe. Tiles, music, fountains, trees…. Simply gorgeous at sunset.
flamenco at La Carboneria - not a fancy show but 3 30-minute performances a night with guitarist, dancer, and singer in an intimate setting. Buy your inexpensive drinks and tapas and stay for one performance or all three. We stayed for two.
Cathedral - this was my first time to walk the 35 short ramps up for views of the city. Each cathedral I visited seemed to be trying to outdo the previous. :)
Of course, there is so more: the Alcazar, Triana, sitting by the river, museums, churches…..
Stayed: an apartment 2 blocks from the cathedral.
Cont.