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2 weeks in Victoria and Tasmania, Australia

I have just finished 2 weeks in the south part of Australia, Victoria and Tasmania, and it could easily have been double that time even without including other parts of Australia.

This is part of a much longer trip that began with 5 weeks in New Zealand. Outline:
Healesville: 2 nights
Warrnambool: 1 night
Apollo Bay 1 night
Melbourne: 3 nights
Hobart: 6 nights
Melbourne: 1 night

Day 1: I flew into Melbourne from Christchurch, NZ, and of course arrived with no jet lag. So I rented a car at the airport and headed straight for Healesville, about an hour’s drive. It was about dusk when I arrived, a little later than I usually like to drive; so I had to keep an eye out for wildlife on the road. I knew I was for sure in Australia when a kangaroo crossed the road in front of me in the distance!

Day 2: Healesville is a delightful little town and I could have stayed longer. But my main focus was Healesville Animal Sanctuary. So that is where I spent my one full day. I paid extra for a “koala experience” - which meant that I, along with 3 other people, had our own little keeper talk inside one of the koala enclosures. Plus the next door echidnas. No touching, but we were definitely up close and personal. I also attended talks on the platypus (they had two) and the Tasmanian Devil (they had 1 adult to see during the talk and 9 juveniles that I got to watch feeding, which doesn’t happen every day).

Note: I went to 4 animal sanctuaries (no zoos) and loved this emphasis on rescue of both wounded animals and orphaned animals, as well as ongoing research and breeding to preserve native endangered animals. One guide said it’s suggested that if you hit a kangaroo on the road to stop and call the helpline (if it’s still living), but also check the pouch for a surviving joey. And that moving roadkill off the road decreases the chance that scavengers (like Tasmanian Devils) will also be killed while feeding.

Day 3: Wanting to see some of the Great Ocean Road, I drove as far as Warrnambool via the inland road. My goal was to go through Tower Hill Reserve for the chance to spot koalas in the wild, which I certainly did. The location is small but very interesting - as you drive first up, then down into an old volcano. There’s a visitor’s center and nice bathrooms, what looked like good hiking - but most of all, lots of koalas sitting up in the trees! There were also a couple of emu wandering around.

I am a bad animal spotter, so my strategy (which I discovered at Yellowstone) is to look for a group of people gathered and go see what they are looking at. During my second koala sighting, I met a British couple (Isle of Wight) and they told me about a nearby sanctuary that someone else had told them about. Passed down wisdom that proved a highlight.

From Tower Hill, I drove in to town and checked in, had dinner on the Main Street, and went to bed. There is a really cool looking maritime village museum I had planned to visit, but was just tired. I might have gone the next day, but replaced it with my sanctuary tip!

Continued…..

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Day 4: A full day! I started with a stop at Logans Beach Whale Watching Platform, where there are often whales (in season, which it wasn’t for me). Beautiful beach!

Then it was off to Warrnambool Wildlife Encounters (reservations only): one of my favorite stops. This is a privately owned smaller place, rescues and orphans with a few animals that are bred and then exchanged with other sanctuaries. This was half wildlife talk and close encounter and half open feeding of kangaroos, wallabies, etc. We were introduced to and held a python, blue-tongued lizard, baby wallaby, baby wombat (they are hefty!), a very small tree squirrel looking animal that I don’t remember, and several cockatoos. Then we were all given feed and led out to the yard where there were kangaroos, wallabies (several kinds), pademelon, deer, geese.

Then I drove just a part of the Great Ocean Road, ending in Apollo Bay for the night. I made stops at Bay of Islands, Bay of Martyrs, The Grotto, The Razorback Lookout, and the Twelve Apostles (spoiler alert - there aren’t 12 anymore). And it’s hard to imagine a view more breathtaking than topping the hill and looking down at Apollo Bay.

Day 5: Day 4 was really really full. So while I had intended to drive more of the GOR, I was just plain tired. So I took Google’s advice on the shorter way back to the Melbourne airport to turn in the car (still a 3 hour drive). This route still took me through some really pretty forests - that required a lot of concentration. This might have been the hardest drive of my 7 weeks.

Day 6: A slow start, but I headed out for lunch at The Tea Rooms 1892, then went to the Immigration Museum which had a very interesting high-tech traveling exhibit showing the history of Notre Dame. I wished I had given myself more time for the main exhibits. Then I hopped a free tram to St. Paul’s Cathedral for evensong.

Day 7: This was a long day tour to Phillip Island. It started with a stop to see the beach and the Brighton Beach Boxes: brightly colored “boxes” originally for changing to bathing costumes, but now more for storing your beach stuff. A box could run you $250,000 if you can find one for sale. Then it was on to Moonlit Animal Sanctuary for more koalas, kangaroos, wallabies, birds, wombats, and my best views of dingos. From here we went on to Phillip Island, with fairly close daylight views of little blue penguins who had either stayed the day on land or arrived way early. We then went to the viewing platforms to watch them swim out of the water in groups just after dark. How can you not love penguins? Unless I was booked to stay overnight on or very near Phillip Island, the evening portion of the day is not a drive I would do on my own, though.

Day 8: Transition day: flight to Hobart, Tasmania.Free tram to the Southen Cross Bus Terminal, SkyBus to airport, flight, SkyBus to downtown Hobart.

Day 9: Full day tour that included: an hour’s Tall Trees walk in Mt. Field National Park down through rainforest vegetation (and tall trees) past a couple of waterfalls; a nicely timed visit to Bonorong Animal Sanctuary, where I saw more Tasmanian Devils, wombats, kangaroos and wallabies, Fred - a 114 year old cockatoo, and more native birds. Lunch was in Richmond, a lovely little colonial-looking town, and then it was a drive to the top of Mt. Wellington for views.

Continued….

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Day 10: Happened to be a Saturday, the day for the big Salamanca street market, with lots of food trucks, shop stalls, and various activity. On my Saturday, the Hobart Highland Pipe Band was performing in two park areas. I didn’t expect to walk through the park and hear bagpipes! I had to do some work online in the afternoon, so after a dinner of some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had (it ties with the ice cream I ate in Sigulda, Latvia) at Van Diemens Land Creamery, I took my first ever ghost tour of Hobart Convict Penitentiary. Got lots of history while doing some unusual things (like sitting in the solitary confinement cells in the dark just like some of the convicts would have done).

Day 11: Another slow start. Then Tassie Devil and grandson picked me up and showed me the Huon Valley (which I was not seeing on any tours), including 3 wineries. Two of these were very small places, where we talked to the really nice people who own the small vineyards and make the wine. Then we stopped by his house to meet the rest of the family (and the chickens). A really nice day!

Day 12: Another great full day tour, the two main activities being a pretty exciting 3 hour boat ride along the Tasman coast. On the way, we saw dolphins, albatross, and an unusual humpback whale. Plus baby seals! We saw quite a few adults elsewhere, but could get up fairly close to the nursery! The rock formations and the color of the sea is phenomenal. The tour continued to Port Arthur, which is an old prison now a museum. Lots of convicts were sent to Tasmania in the 1800’s - they built a lot of things you still see but prisons were needed to confine them. I will admit the history wasn’t of as much interest to me but it’s a beautiful site and well-explained.

Day 13: A lovely wine tour in the Coal River Valley and Derwent Valley.

Day 14: A return to Melbourne. For dinner I rode the tram to Queen Victoria Market, which is open late on Wednesdays in the summer. It’s mainly food, with a few stalls with things to sell, plus entertainment. It was fun but definitely a place where young people were thronging.

Day 15: Depart!

The Skybus: operates from both Melbourne and Hobart and was very easy to use to and from airports. I tried buying tickets online but couldn’t be done. However there are numerous, easy machines that are fast and simple.

Cash: I got none. There was a place at the Salamanca Market where they didn’t have ApplePay capacity, but could use my real card. Otherwise I never even had a need for cash. Apple Pay exclusively.

Cars: I drove for 4 of my 5 weeks in NZ, and opted for a car for 3 days on the Australian Mainland. After I figured out how much there was to see in Tasmania, and how I would be hurrying to drive there and try to get to parts other than Hobart, I decided to just not. So I have lots left to see. I did some comparison shopping for price and ended up booking with Alamo via carrentals.com. You probably don’t want to hear about how I discovered 3 days ahead of my flight that I had booked a car in Melbourne, Florida, instead of Melbourne, Australia. (Thank goodness for free cancellations.)

Day Tours: I did one from Melbourne and 3 from Hobart, booked through Viator (sorry but I get lots of airline points). All were great, well-organized, with good guides.

Just a little more…..

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Organization: At some point I wondered why on earth I had booked my Melbourne area stop first, necessitating a one night stop on my return, instead of flying straight on to Tasmania upon arrival in Melbourne and keeping all of Melbourne till the end. Then I remembered that I was constrained by flight times and my New Zealand outline.

People: I met SO many nice people. Couples who invited me to eat with them, then talk for hours; young people on tours who made sure I had someone to take pictures of me with animals; waitresses interested to stop and chat; eatsrootsandleaves checking in with me to be sure I didn’t need anything; ALL my bnb hosts who invited me to their activities or sat and chatted; and more.

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Thanks for a great report! Some would say a trip of a lifetime but then you would have more lives than a cat! :)