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19 days in Madagascar

I am on my last full day in Madagascar, sitting at breakfast in my beachfront hotel in Morondava, on the west coast, facing the Mozambique Channel.

I won't write a full trip report, but if you would like details, please let me know. I blog about my travels and can share photos, but it's all still in progress, as this has been a very full itinerary, and there hasn't been a lot of time to write or organize the zillions of photos I've taken.

I did Madagascar: The Lost Continent, a 15-day tour with Explore! (https://www.explore.co.uk/holidays/madagascar-wildlife-tour). There were just three of us on the tour, all solo male travelers: another American and a Dane. About a month beforehand I got a call from Explore! to ask if I wanted to change to another date with more people, but they assured me it was a guaranteed departure, so I (and the other two gents) stuck with the date, and I'm glad I did. It was great to travel in such a small group. That tour started and ended in Antananarivo (colloquially referred to as "Tana"), the capital city.

At the end I did a private tour that I booked through TourHQ. (https://www.tourhq.com/tours/78332/4-day-tour-of-tsingy-and-baobab-avenue-from-morondava). I flew from Tana to Morondava, where my guide met me at the airport for the drive north to Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park, where I stayed 3 nights. That tour ended last night when they dropped me off at my hotel here. And I booked one final night here before I head home.

First off, a review of the two tours: Both were 5 stars out of 5. Awesome guides, awesome itineraries. Any negatives (and there were a few) were no fault of either tour operator. They handled everything brilliantly.

I'll get the negatives out of the way:

  • Infrastructure here is very poor. Road conditions are abysmal. Distances between locations were long, and made longer by the need to navigate massive potholes and interruptions in the asphalt. The drive from Morondava to Tsingy and back is not even on a road at all, but on a dirt track that is badly rutted. On some days we averaged under 20 mph, and when you're driving 160 miles, that's a long, jostling, grueling drive. Call it the Madagascar Massage. And there's just no way to avoid it if you come here, because there's no way to break up the trip into smaller segments.
  • I encountered poverty at levels beyond anything I've seen anywhere else. Madagascar is somewhere around the sixth poorest country in the world based on GDP per capita. I never became inured to it. Every time we stopped at a viewpoint or a rest stop, throngs of local residents, mostly children, came running to meet us, hoping for some sort of handout. At tourist sites, vendors selling souvenirs (some of which were very nice, handcrafted stuff) were relentlessly persistent.
  • Internet was very spotty on the road, and Wifi wasn't always good at hotels. Sometimes I had to go to the lobby or restaurant to connect.
  • Hotels ranged from super luxurious 5-star quality to... well let's just say lower. Most did not have nightly housekeeping, no shampoo, just a tiny bar of soap. Showers sometimes had minimal hot water. There was no heat, and winter nights in some areas were quite chilly. Bedsheets were not the softest. But rooms were clean and comfortable.

I'll continue with the positive in the first comment.

Posted by
2360 posts

The positives

  • This was the most extraordinary destination I've ever traveled to. And I've been to 75 countries. I'd consider this the trip of a lifetime. The things I saw (14 species of lemur, numerous birds, reptiles, and plants that exist only here) wowed me every single day. The baobabs! The sunsets! The baobabs with sunsets! Magnificent scenery, from rolling hills to craggy peaks to pastureland, rice paddies, and all sorts of farmland. And most of all, Tsingy. I've only been one other place in the world (Wadi Rum in Jordan) where I thought I was on a different planet. At one point I got emotional (verklempt). It was just beyond description.
  • Although some of the hotels fell short of western standards, the level of service never did. The staff were unanimously friendly, helpful, and professional. In a world where people have so little, it was impressive to see how expertly they interacted with tourists.
  • People, in spite of their poverty, were overwhelmingly friendly. As we drove past villages, people waved and smiled broadly. Shopkeepers were welcoming without being pushy. At one point, where we had to wait for a ferry to cross a river, a group of young men in their early 20s were waiting to chat with me and practice their English. They asked me about Mexican food, and I had to try to describe a taco to people who lived primarily on rice, corn, casava, and occasional beef from zebu (a type of cattle with a hump that every family owns at least two off to pull their carts).
  • Visiting a national park (there are 27 across the country, and I visited 5 or 6) requires a local guide. The tour leaders scheduled our guides in advance, and they were all outstanding. Best of all was my guide in Tsingy, where the hiking was quite technical. My guide helped me figure out where to place my feet going up and down, sometimes taking hold of my shoes and guiding me into a foothold, and grabbing my hand where balance was tricky and the risk of falling was high.

I know Madagascar is not at the top of the bucket list for most tourists who are interested in Europe. It's a different kind of travel for sure. But if you have an adventurous spirit and are willing to forego some creature comforts, I 100% recommend it. I'll never forget it!

Posted by
2360 posts

I don't recall any Italians. Russians, Japanese, Chinese, and several European countries, but not Italians that I remember. This is the end of low season, so there weren't a lot of tourists. In the hotel in Ifaty (on the southwestern coast), there was a group of Germans who left a day before we did, and then we were literally the only guests staying there.

High season starts mid-July; peak season is September/October, but by then it's already getting very hot. Rainy season is November to March or April, and much of the country is inaccessible due to flooding. Most of the parks, hotels, and restaurants that cater to tourists are closed six months of the year.

Though it is winter here in the southern hemisphere, and nights were very chilly in some locations (low 40s), it was very hot elsewhere during the daytime, with highs in the 90s.

Posted by
3560 posts

I very much doubt I will ever make it to Madagascar but I found your report very interesting just the same. Thanks for sharing.

Posted by
1760 posts

I’m looking forward to seeing your pictures when you clean them up. A good friend of mine will be in Madagascar the first half of August. I’m hoping to make it there next year or 2028 at the latest. I’m always interested in the wildlife and especially the birds.

Posted by
5030 posts

Wow Lane, what a trip. Not one I would make now at my age but I am happy to travel along with you. Hope you’ll let us know when your photos are ready.

Posted by
4184 posts

I enjoyed following your blog on your interesting journey. A friend worked for the US State Department and was stationed in Antananarivo. It was considered a hardship post for many of the reasons you cited (travel challenges, poverty, infrastructure). I regret not going to visit her though, it looks like a once in a lifetime sort of place.

Posted by
1553 posts

Madagascar is such a special place, and one of my favourite places I've ever visited. I loved it so much I got a Malagasy breed of dog! I've been three times but only for work so haven't gotten to see the major tourist sites. One of these days I hope to return for a proper visit. It really is like nowhere else in the world. If anyone is considering it even a little bit... you should definitely go.