13 day Turkey tour 4/27-5/9

She writes great trip reports. Will definately be reading your updated one when posted. Istanbul is on our radar for a future trip.

I third the CWSocial trip report recommendation! Definitely splurge on the balloon ride in Cappadocia, it was a bucket list item I didn't know I should have on my bucket list. Have a wonderful tour, it was one of my favorites.

I'm so happy to find this just in time to follow along. First, because it may explain why I felt compelled at 2am to check out recent Trip Reports...which I'm not in the habit of doing!

Second, because I'm headed back to Istanbul this summer (a wedding dictated the timing) and so I'll be very interested in hearing recent observations.

And finally because it will be fun to relive a great tour and hear a new perspective, and how things are the same or different.

Thank you (everyone) for the kind words about my trip reports and I'm so happy to get to follow along!

Added the links to my Turkey file. Come 2026 I will be spending a month in Istanbul, a week in Cappadocia, & a month in Antalya.

Arrival

So, CWSocial, your 2 AM urge to check out recent trip reports occurred just a few minutes before TK290 touched down at IST, parking in the absolutely furthest gate from Passport Control, while our baggage carousel turned out to be the second furthest from passport. Didn’t matter much since the luggage had just arrived when we did. The point of all this description is, IST airport is huge with a lot of ground to cover. I traveled over 14,000 steps today, which isn’t too bad considering almost half the day was spent sitting on a plane.

There are several ways to get into town from the airport. We narrowed it down to two: the newish Metro line that, with one train change (and some walking), takes you almost directly next to the hotel. Second was a paid in advance transport service, $40 for two. We opted for number two so a) we could see more of the city and its approach (which our driver’s “shortcuts” accommodated quite well, and b)who wants to navigate a new metro system on 30 minutes of sleep folded into jet lag. It was the right choice. We used Welcome Pickups. Efficient, straightforward, on time, no surprises….typical of those sorts of services. I wondered about how much to tip, finally settled on around 15% of the ride cost. So 200 T Lira. Driver seemed pleased, like it was about right.

For the metro route, How to get from Istanbul Airport to City Centre (2024) — Mog and Dog Travels has a superb guide, complete with photos. https://www.moganddogtravels.com/blogs/istanbul-airport-to-city-centre#:~:text=The%20M11%20line%20connects%20the,directly%20into%20the%20city%20centre.

Previous hotel for RS Best of Turkey has been Acra Hotel, conveniently located just SE of the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet). That was supposed to be ours too but in December we were notified the hotel was changed to Levni Hotel. Still can’t drink the water; they provide a 1.5 liter bottle every day. Almost as close to Ayasofia and Sultanahmet but a lot closer to Eminönü, Galata Bridge, Ferries, trams and metro stations, and the larger portion of the old section. Though relatively expensive we booked here for the three nights pre-tour (don’t have to pack up and move). It looks fairly recently remodeled, is stylish, breakfast of course, has a pool, spa and its own Hammam. There are two popular, local coffee houses just meters away. The fifth floor is not currently being used but guests can go up to enjoy the view. No balcony but our room looks onto the Bosphorus and both the European and Asian side of Istanbul. The room is well appointed, has a security safe, and a comfy bed. Speaking of which:

We hit the sidewalks in full stride when we arrived but the rest of today’s discoveries will have to wait until tomorrow…right now the 30 minutes of sleep in over 40 hours has caught up.

CL, we had first talked ourselves out of doing the balloon; it was mostly a matter of dollars and cents. Ultimately, fortunately, we decided to let go of the dollars and make sense, so now it’s definitely on the bucket list we didn’t know we had either. Too many glowing stories for us to pass up the opportunity. Thanks for confirming we’re on the right track.

First Day

Started the morning after saying hello to the cats (some of them) with walk to Tarihi Çemberlitaş Börekçisi to try a popular Turkish Böreki. A Su Böreği and a Peynir Adnan Böreği and two small çay was 300 Tl. Definitely better with a generous sprinkling of powdered sugar. Active place; In the half hour we were there, dozens of people popped in and out. Walking back the old city awakened with workers leaving the metro. We went by the Tomb of Mahmut II. Meandering through a city’s cemetery is always enlightening for us and, with several Ottoman Sultans entombed here, this should be a special experience. We’ll go back later. First though, böreği isn’t exactly diet food so it fits in with my accepted goal of walking 6-10 miles per day and gaining 5-7 pounds on this trip. But that formula only works if I also go to the gym every morning. So…..

Basilica Cistern

Yesterday discovery.

This isn’t on the RS tour. Really amazing (I’ll try to limit my usage of that word) Byzantine architecture and engineering. Public water systems interest me anyway and ancient solutions are especially fascinating.

30-45 minutes is long enough to appreciate the cavernous space, dodge several drips, and get some really unique photos. With some perspectives and timing the lights are too bright and wash out but in many the camera picks up enhanced greens and oranges on the columns. Selfies can be a little tricky for exposure when some of the lights are on, not to mention that even when the place is not busy there are still plenty of people to work around.

Glad you made it and easily got your airport transfer. I'm considering Welcome Pickups for my August visit, which I recall CL also used. I like that I can book it myself. And the price.

The service I used (name unknown, booked by my hotel) has an advantage that they just check you in when you get there and assign you to the next car. If makes no difference if your plane is late.

Basilica Cistern is high on my list, as it wasn't open during my first visit. Thanks for your timing estimate.

Sounds like you're making great use of your pre tour days, Enjoy!

The Haircut

I heard Turkish haircuts are a thing to experience so before arriving in Istanbul I’d narrowed it down to a traditional men’s barber shop in Balat neighborhood or a salon in Sultanahmet near the Ayasofya. Opted for Salon Kadır and stopped to check how/when to make an appointment. Stepped right up (literally…there are steps everywhere here, so keep looking down) and walked right in. “Erol can do you right now”. Small shop whose vibe is hip and young (I’m neither). Showed him a photo of my last cut and said “Bu gibi, but you do what you want”. He went to work and Wow, what an experience. Perhaps not the best…Nah, it was definitely the best haircut I’ve ever had. He snipped and swooped like his hands were dancing, back and forth shaping with scissor and razor cut. Honestly it was like watching someone working on an ice sculpture. Towards the end he’d find just one or two strands of hair out of place and snip-snip. He finished off by buzzing my ear and nose hairs and scissor trimming my bushy eyebrows. I told him I might have to move to Istanbul just so he can cut my hair. He grinned and said, “yeah, Turkish barbers are best”.

Cost 600 Tl, about $18. There are shops around town with signs advertising men’s haircuts for 350 Tl but I doubt they’d be as thorough..

From pictures, their women’s cuts look really good too.

CWSocial, Welcome Pickups will wait for one hour after the scheduled pick-up time and they say they monitor your plane and will adjust. I did read one reviewer who claimed they didn’t, with the excuse they were too busy. I think that could happen. I suspect these are independent operators.

The Hammam

We did the full package Hammam tonight, which included sauna, Turkish bath, and massage. We are thoroughly scrubbed and exfoliated and as limp as over cooked linguine. If you’ve done the full package Turkish Bath experience you know what it’s all about. If you haven’t done it you should.

There are lots of venue choices with a wide range of prices. We went with one of the more reasonable places, mostly due to someone we met (more on that contact in a later post)

Süleymaniye Camii

Seeing The Tomb of Mahmut and surrounding cemetery was interesting but the tombs and cemeteries at Süleymaniye Mosque are a better experience of a Moslem cemetery, with more open space and artfully designed headstones. The mosque is an impressive example of Ottoman imperial architecture with a soothing visual rhythm in the domes’ interior (I’m pretty sure I jacked that description from Wikipedia or someone’s Google review but I can’t say it any better). The grounds are much less busy and frenetic than the area around Ayasofya and The Blue Mosque, offering unparalleled vistas of the Golden Horn and an opportunity for peaceful reflection and serenity.

It’s not on the RS tour so we were sure to make time.

There is no cost to enter the grounds or the visitor section of the mosque.

Up very early to hear the morning call to prayer. Right on time at 5:00 AM the first of many voices, with many pitches and timbres, echoing throughout the city, building to a crescendo and finally fading into silence as each mosque finished.

Inspiring.

Loving your trip report in progress! Glad you had a good experience with Welcome Pickups. They worked great for me too. I hope you love the balloon ride - I am significantly afraid of heights but was able to function pretty well regardless (don't look down!). Ordinarily I wouldn't fork over that kind of money for an experience, but for me it was worth every penny. The Basilica Cistern was closed on my visit but the Cistern of Theodosius was a fine visit as well. I did a hammam at the place CWSocial used (Hurrem Sultan Hammam) but also did one in Antalya with my group. Definitely do that second one too - they take you to a very local place and it is fun to compare to the Istanbul experience. You can do the boat ride and hammam in same day.

PS I would say approximately 1/3 of my photos from that tour are of cats! I met one at the whirling dervish performance in Pamukkale - he sat in my lap during the performance and then decided to join the dervishes for the last 5 minutes or so. Hilarious! And I decided to get two kitties when I came home - the cat distribution system is a worldwide thing.

"Up very early to hear the morning call to prayer.
Right on time at 5:00 AM
the first of many voices,
with many pitches and timbres,
echoing throughout the city,
building to a crescendo
and finally fading into silence
as each mosque finished."

Poetic. Love this!!

Thanks for the tip: we visited the Süleymaniye Mosque, but not the cemetery. I've added it to my own personal Old Town Walk that also includes places that were closed (Basilica Cistern) or under renovation (Blue Mosque) at the time of my 2022 visit.

amazing (I’ll try to limit my usage of that word)

You're on the RS Best of Turkey tour....you just go right ahead and keep on using it! Although you might need to find a word at a whole new level after you visit Ephesus!

Simit

Followed more excellent advice and grabbed a warm simit to munch on while we walked across the Galata Bridge to watch the sun get busy with the day as the moon went to bed behind a minaret.

The sun was taking its time this morning so we continued on to Galata Tower and said günaydın to the pigeons, who responded with a private concert (I think they were going to do the concert anyway). Loved the quiet neighborhood that will be anything but in a few hours.

Bosphorus

The sky is finally clear enough of clouds and haze for the Bosphorus to shout with its famous cerulean blue water. Is it famous for that? I don’t know, but judging from the color today it should be.

Kadıköy

Not on the RS tour so hopped on the 9:00 ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy (25 Tl/person each way, about 75 cents) lunch and a too brief taste of the Asian side. Nearby the ferry pier in Kadıköy is a station for the B1 metro line (we could have traveled there that way; the station entrance is 20 meters away from the Levni Hotel). This is also a major bus hub so there is a lot of coming and going with commuters, shoppers, and tourists. By the way, this is also one of the few areas we found public toilets (WC). They cost 10 Tl so it’s good to carry some small bills.

To my untrained eye Sögütlu Çeşme Cd. seems to divide a more touristy section around the Kadıköy market area from a section with more local shopping, artsy and residential. We opted for the residential. The neighborhood we explored felt cosmopolitan. Sipped a chai at Robin’s Mug, across the street from a former church converted to a concert hall, and watched several people walking their leashed dogs, one of which was very well coiffed…looked like she/he had just come from the dog salon (so proud). Historical buildings nearby, appealing coffeehouses and boutiques.

Lunched at Balıkçı Lokantası, fish soup then a plate of sardine and one of sea bream, both filleted and both grilled. The sardines were large medallions. The taste, in a word…Fresh. I’m still trying to decide which one I liked better.

A brief 4 hours visit. We need more of Kadıköy. But today we needed a nap.

The feribot going at 9:00 AM was uncrowded, about ten people but the trip back was a bigger boat and way full. Almost had a party atmosphere, with lots of passenger enthusiasm, a guy walking around hawking Çay? Kahve? Suyu? I half closed my eyes and was instantly mesmerized by the calming bubbling brook of multiple languages (I think I counted five).

Levni

A few Levni Hotel observations. Not complaints, just things to know.

The shower tub is high, 20” from tub bottom to rim and 24” from floor to rim. With narrow doorway, glass wall supported on only two edges, and no safety bars…getting out with wet feet onto marble floor requires some agility, confidence, and commitment.

Hotel became progressively more booked each day (glad we came in early) and by Friday night WiFi speeds had noticeably diminished.

The lower level pool and workout room (minimal) doesn’t officially open until the spa does at 11:00 and before that ALL the lights are turned off. Elevator door opens to complete darkness so one of the desk people has to go down with you to turn on the lights.

Begin the Tour

Met guide Togay and the group of 26, including us, and did Grand Bazaar (briefly), Ayasofia, Blue Mosque, Hippodrome, and dinner. We ate in Sultanhamet at the restaurant Albura Kathısma, not at one of the very touristy places beneath Galata Bridge. The food and atmosphere was excellent.

Traveling through city streets with a group is a new thing for us. We tend to walk at a quick pace and often stopping for body checks, waiting to cross busy streets as a group, having to stay close together is not a natural walking rhythm. But we adjusted quickly, it is a lovely group and the shared experience far out weighs. Besides, it’s the only practical way….and thankfully Togay doesn’t use one of those flags to follow behind that a lot of the guides are using. The group dynamic is really positive and I see friendships forming.

Learned from Togay that the Instabulkart will get you into some of the public toilets, at least the one in Sultahnamet Meydanı. In fact it’s the only way for that one. I’ll be sure to have my card at all times.

It’s unusually cold with a chance of rain and today we’ll be on the Bosphorous cruise. Brrr.

That's a full day of Rick Steves 3 triangle attractions! I'm looking forward to the Blue Mosque, which we saw glimpses of through the renovation scaffolding. That alone may be worth my return.

Thanks for the restaurant tip, which I may use for lunch on the day I revisit Old Town.

What fun to follow along on your tour! That restaurant looks amazing, too bad I didn't know about it, I stayed just a couple blocks from there pre-tour. Next time!

CWSocial I went to Blue Mosque right after it reopened after the first morning prayer - hardly anyone there and the light was great. Might be too early for you but it was worth avoiding the lines/crowds. Another great place to see nice blue tile work is the Rustem Pasha Mosque kind of hidden behind the Spice Market. Hard to find the entrance but it's a lovely quiet spot and the tiles are spectacular.

Thanks for the Blue Mosque timing tip, CL! I'm staying on the other side of the Galata Bridge, so I may not pull off the 4:40am first morning prayer, but perhaps the second, which is at 6:15-ish in August.

If I were staying near the Acra, I could take an early morning walk over to the Blue Mosque and then go back to the room and catch a few more winks. A bonus for that location.

The Rustem Pasha Mosque and the Spice Market may be the perfect last stops on my departure day, when my flight out of Istanbul is after 8pm.

A Very Busy Day

Seeing Topkapi Palace was a Wow Day. Especially the Imperial Chamber, which only reopened fairly recently after significant restorations. Opulent, beautiful tile, gold leaf galore, ostentatiously exhibiting wealth and power. The Imperial Treasury is filled with valuable artifacts too numerous to describe, but including the Spoonmaker’s Diamond 86 karat and the fourth largest of its kind in the world. Guide Togay pointed out, if these were the things the Sultan left behind when the royal family left, just think of what he took with him.

With four courtyards and numerous buildings, the Palace really needs two visits to explore.

Traveling across to Beyoğlu took some doing today. The Tour of Türkiye bicycle race was happening so there were more people out than even normal for a Sunday, trams were not running, streets were crowded, and it rained almost all day (which didn’t keep people from being out and about). Walking on Istlikal was festive, with several seas of umbrellas. The fish restaurants on Flower Street were enjoyed by many, including us.

The day was long and strenuous, even though we walked less than the 9 miles a day we’ve averaged here, and after the Bosphorous boat tour, an early evening and a chance to warm up, rest up, and catch up on the trip journal seemed like a great idea.

Scam Alert

Don’t drink the water edition:

Togay told us not to buy bottled water from any of the street vendors that walk around selling them. They’ve figured out how to make the caps look sealed after filling used empties with tap water.

One thing that is simplifying my return to Istanbul is that I'll be staying in our Best of Istanbul tour hotel. I remember where the ATMs are. I remember how to get to the tram stop.

And, good reminder .... I remember where the little market is to buy truly sealed bottles of water for cheap!

ATM Fees

From pre-trip research I “learned” that Ziraat Bank and sometimes Halk Bank ATMs don’t charge fees for foreign card withdrawals. That turned out to be not true. Both of those charged me 8% and experimenting with several others they were mostly the same. Exceptions were 10% in the airport and 7% at a Türkiye İş Bankası, which lowered from 8% when I chose to have the transaction fee taken out in lira. None of the others offered that option.

Last day in Istanbul

Woke up to our last sabâ call to prayer, at least the broad, wavy multi-tonal sounds in this city.

We’ll be rushing out with an 8:30 departure from the hotel after loading our luggage into minivan to take to our bus. This area of Old Town won’t accommodate the bus. We’ll do Egyptian Spice Market and then head to Ankara on another cold and overcast morning.

Istanbul regrets, places we still want see:

Dolmabahçe Palace
Archeological Museum
Deeper exploration of Istliklal Cd and passageways. We only had a brief pass through.
Our Istanbul itinerary was changed every day to accommodate city goings on.
Not sure I understand all the logic.
Balat neighborhood
Kuzguncuk neighborhood
This is not a complete list….and I’d love to hear other’s recommendations.

Hotel Levni final thoughts

I’d stay again, probably, for staff and location. It is a bit pricey, though, so I’d explore options.
Beds are perfect for me, firm but not too.
We upgraded to a deluxe room, so got more space and maybe the view.
Breakfast was superb. Aren’t they usually?
Heating and cooling system is chancy. Some fellow travelers complained the room was too hot, others it became too cold. Our window kept popping open, no matter how much force was applied to the lever, which made the room cold. In-room thermostat does nothing, so staff has to change it centrally, which they did one night. Next night they said they couldn’t so gave us a portable heater. I think they just shut the whole system down because of guests complaining about too hot/too cold.
This is the first time RS Tours has used this hotel.
I finally figured out the elevator buttons require a thumb or finger pad, finger tips don’t work. Only took me until the last morning.

Great Simit place 100 m around the corner. First day the guy was kinda “meh, more tourists”. By today he was all smiles and friendly, even a bit chatty.

Re: itinerary changes to tour - my guide also flipped the order of things. For example, she knew when there were extra big crowds at the Topkapi palace so we went at a less crowded time (it was still crowded). There were multiple adjustments to the printed itinerary along the way, so don't be surprised. I asked the guide about it and she told me the printed itinerary is out of date for current practicalities - you will see what they promise but perhaps not in the same order. BTW on my tour eval I suggested they should update their itinerary to be more in line with what guides are doing.

As for your Istanbul regrets list, I wish I had seen most of the things you listed, though I'm not much of a shopper so Istiklal street was not a place I'd go back to. I also wanted to see the tile museum and the Chora Church but both were closed (and still are). I could easily go back and spend a week and not cover everything, and I covered a lot when I was there!

PS I tried making simit when I returned home. Utter failure! So eat as much as you can while you're there, it's hard to replicate.

You’re exactly right CL, we’ll see everything listed in the itinerary and any change to order is for practical reasons. After this morning’s early visit to the Spice Market, limited street space to board the bus, and departure from crowded Istanbul, yesterday’s changes are understandable.

I didn’t know about the tile museum but now that I do it made it to near the top of the list. Thanks.

I figured making the simit is difficult, though I’m still tempted to try…or rather Jamelie will be.

OCAK

I’d heard on very good authority that Ocak was not to be missed. We went twice, once to drink and the next night to eat. I’ll share my impressions of them separatey.

The Restaurant

Chef Omer owns and curates the menu for a Michelin rated restaurant. Constantly changing his creative approach, as of a few months ago he no longer offers an a la carte menu. Instead you can choose from five tasting menus: a three course for €70, five course for €80, and seven course for €110. All guests at the same table must choose the same menu. We went with the five course.

As should be expected, the portions are small. Good thing too because the food is rich, with each course a tapestry of flavors using spices and herbs in unique combinations. I found it best to eat in slow and small bites, savoring the changes in flavor and texture as I worked my way around the plate

The Bar

We went in the night before to have a drink and an appetizer. They don’t do bar food. Which didn’t stop us from having two of Misak’s signature cocktails, Prince of Persia for Jamelie and for me The Last Word, which is pretty much described as a rum and pineapple but is anything but. We chatted up Misak, talking spirits and cocktails. I enjoy creating new cocktails at my home bar or trying to duplicate a really good drink a professional mixologist has put together. Duplication would be impossible in this case. What an artist. I’ve never seen anyone go through so many steps or come up with so many complex flavors in one glass. I gave him the recipe for one of my favorites in the hopes he’ll try it and take it to new levels

We talked about Raki and Misak gave me a couple of tastes, my favorite being Efe 5…although Togay told me we’re gonna try Yeni Raki Gold when we go out drinking one night this week.

To have one of Misak’s signature drinks, he has to be there…because “they’re my signature drinks”. The other bartenders are limited to making the classic drinks.

OCAK…go for the drinks, stay for the food.

Thanks CWSocial

Spice Market

Misak from Ocak told me they buy all of their spices from Hayfene, stall number 51, so I was determined to do my shopping there. I figured we’d all go in, listen to the lesson and perhaps sales pitch from wherever Togay took us, and then I’d go find stall 51.

Well…the business Togay takes his groups to is Hayfene! Imagine that. When I mentioned the above to the manager and his employees and to Togay, one of the guys whipped out his phone and said “this Omer?” Yep. And Togay said, oh yeah, Omer and I were drinking whisky together last night…(thanks for inviting me).

Oh, and we did buy some spices…including Ufer Biber, which they don’t have out on display; I had to ask if they had it. I can buy good quality in San Francisco but this was far superior…fresher and noticeably hotter.

The folks at Hayfene are pros so even if not on a RS tour, this is the place to go in the Egyptian Spice Market.

Ankara

Ankara looks like kind of dull city, confirmed by Togay who was raised here. I’m sure there are some places of interest but we won’t be here long enough to find out. There is a very pleasant park near the hotel, The Ankara Occidental. This is a business hotel, but a nice one.

Several of us went to a pub to have a beer, where we met Togay’s mom, sister, and future brother-in-law.

A couple of brave souls ate Kokoreç, lamb intestines wrapped around spiced sweetbreads, then grilled and served as a sandwich. I skipped it, but only because I skipped dinner altogether.

Ankara ATM charged a 6% fee.

Thunderstorm, lightning close by, raining hard. May have to buy an umbrella tomorrow.

I am bubbling with happiness that you had 2 great experiences at OCAK!! I love that Jamelie had the Prince of Persia cocktail - oh that brings back terrific taste bud memories! That's very cool that you create cocktails in your home bar and had such a pleasant experience with Misak.

Interesting about the new array of tasting menus. My mouth is watering for all of it .... ok, I'm going to make a reservation at OCAK!

ETA: reservation made for OCAK!! I didn't even know it was a Michelin recommended restaurant, although I'm not surprised.

And yes to Hayfene! I still have my shopping bag from one of my visits. Last time, I bought teas and Turkish Delight in chocolate, pistachio and maybe rose, something red. This time, I'll have to pick up some actual spices.

*Istanbul regrets .... and I’d love to hear other’s recommendations."

I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who starts their list for "next visit" before finishing "this visit!* I was in Istanbul for the 7 day tour, plus the start of the Turkey tour, and I still have plenty on my list for my upcoming 7 days.

I haven't done any of the Rick Steves guided walks, so I am planning a few of those: City Walls Walk and the Asian Walks.
I hope to take a forum recommendation to visit the Çamlıca Mosque.

Also from forum recommendations, I'm hoping to visit the Cihangri district, or perhaps Ortakoy, or maybe go back to spend more time in Balat.

Yikes, I'm still going to need more time!

Ezan
Turkish for the first call, instead of the Arabic Adhān

Because Ankara is further East than Istanbul the first prayer today was at 4:07 am.

I was awake anyway.

Ankara day

We enjoyed Ankara more than we expected. Among the displays at The Anatolian Civilization Museum were artifacts I’ve never seen. A highlight was the exhibition of inscribed clay tablets, with text in the Assyrian dialect. Some were encased in a clay envelope…a few were broken…so it would be obvious if the communication had been tampered with. Tagoy explained and pointed out the transformation and evolution through time of Cybeles, from the mother of Gods to the Phrygians.

Ataturk is revered by most of the Turkish population and his mausoleum is testament to the high esteem he is held. It is a stunning and grand complex, fitting for a visionary man. There were several school ceremonies being held and the area was very crowded. Yet still, when the soldiers parades and minute of silence were held, about once per hour, everyone there was still, quiet, and respectful.

Mustafapaşa

We arrived during a tremendous downpour, dashing through the wet to our hotel. Power went off soon after but generators started up, with a little help from staff.

We’re staying at Cappadocia Estates Hotel, I believe an old mansion/estate recently converted and renovated.

Breathtaking is a word I generally reserve for natural wonders or monumental structures, but that was my reaction (I gulped) when we walked into our room. Now, before we left the US I had gone on the hotel’s web site and looked at photos of every room. We’re in the şırahane ((chapel) room and honestly the photos don’t do it justice. What an absolutely amazing place and I’m so looking forward to the next three nights.

Apparently all the RS Tours will be staying here so if you’re signed up for the 13 day Türkiye tour, know you will be chilling in style.

Group dinner at nearby The Old Greek House, another renovated building, with excellent food. The group conviviality has mushroomed, with animated and enthusiastic conversation bouncing around the tables.

Togay lives a short distance away and his wife joined us.

Tomorrow, weather permitting, we’ll be ballooning.

Packing

I’ve used small mesh bags for organizing small items for years. For this trip I also purchased packing cubes. They’re great. I love them. For a sloppy and disorganized person like me they are indispensable. A simple lift of a cube or two and everything is exposed, obvious, and easy to find.

Cappadocia Estates Hotel is associated with the family of some of the lead guides for Turkey tours. My tour stayed at Upper Greek House instead, but we had an excellent dinner at Cappadocia Estates. I also ate at Lower Greek House twice - their resident cat and dog keeping us company.

I hope your balloon ride goes without a hitch, you have two more mornings to go if weather doesn't cooperate :)

We enjoyed Ankara more than we expected.

No doubt due, at least in part, to a guide who gives it all meaning.

I love the respect shown at the Ataturk complex. Your room sounds positively divine!

I made my dinner reservation at OCAK. In the space for messages, I mentioned that I'd first been there with our tour guide, Mert. I got a pleasant note saying "welcome back" rather than just "welcome." Nice touch that they actually read the message.

I am so enjoying reading this trip report rontayca! Thanks to CWSocial for bringing it to my attention at our get together last week. The RS Turkey tour is a consideration this time next year so this is very informative and interesting. Although I wonder if the rain and cold is typical at this time or just bad luck with mother nature? It sounds like you are not letting it dampen your spirits though!!

I'm looking forward to the next installment

CL, you’re right. I asked around. Lale and her husband Tankut, owners of SRM Travel and authors of the RS Istanbul Guide Book manage the hotel and I believe she owns with her family.

CWSocial, yes the guide makes the difference and Togay is exceptional…18 years experience.

Glad to know you already have Ocak arranged. I’ll be waiting to hear your second impression. Say hello to Misak.

UP

Pre-dawn drive through the adjoining towns and villages, onto dirt roads that meandered around trees and passed by several clumps of large mounds that turned out to be partially inflated balloons still lying on their side. Finally we arrive at our balloon, flat and forlorn looking, which changes quickly as air from a fan inflates the balloon enough to raise it and right the carriage. Soon we’re aboard and after much frenzied activity we begin to lift.

Impressions, highlights, sensations.

Our pilot is entertaining and plays us a percussion rhythm by manipulating the burn sequence.

A wedding ceremony is taking place on the ground, bride and groom in a vintage pink Cadillac with doors ajar. Our pilot lowers to photo bomb, to the delight of the couple.

A vista of colored Easter eggs floating up and down across all horizons.

We graze a plot of apricot and olive trees. I guess the pilot knows what he’s doing. (Yep, he does)

Even with the chatter of happy passengers, pilot and co-pilot banter with the ground followers, and blasts from the burners…there are gaps of serene silence, the most profound quiet.

Was it worth the $315 each? You betcha!

DOWN

We didn’t have the kind of problem CWSocial described in her trip report but our pilot didn’t exactly stick the landing. We set on a slight incline in the middle of very tall and very wet grass. The ground crew came rushing at high speed to our rescue and began engaging the pilot in an animated, arm waving, finger pointing exchange which ended with us being lifted and pulled 50’ to a flatter and dryer spot.

Disembark, drink the celebratory (non-alcoholic) champagne, take the photo and we’re off, everyone all bubbly and sighing with content.

The Window

It was overcast when we left the hotel but on the drive over I told the van driver, “today looks good for ballooning”. He shrugged and said “inshallah” a response that can mean “we’ll see”, or sometimes “don’t absolutely count on it”.

Well…with area storms there was no ballooning the past three days; with forecasts there will be no ballooning the next three days. We snuck in.

Oh I'm glad to hear you snuck in between the weather. Thanks for the taking those of us at home Up and Down along with you through your memory-inflating descriptions!

The wedding photo balloon-bomb still has me chuckling!

Local Lunch

The tour includes lunch in a private home near Ortahisar Kalesi.

But first a word from our primary sponsor… Mother Nature.

Storm clouds were gathering when we deboarded the bus, so while over half the group used the public WC (the private home would not accommodate us) Togay led the rest to the home and by the time he returned 5 minutes later a lightning fueled monsoon hit. The rain became fierce, turned to hail, and continued that way for over twenty minutes. One third of our group was in a home with an 80+ year old woman who spoke no English, one third hunkered in the entry to the WC, one third across the street bunched up beneath a porch, and one very drenched guide. When the rain let up to be only a downpour we raced the 150 meters to the home, crossing the road twice over (through) a six feet wide and three inch deep river of water. This of course is the day I didn’t wear my waterproof shoes.

We made it to join the others, twenty-nine of us crowded into a 12 x 20 room, most of us on perimeter cushions, a few on stools in the center. Close quarters. Wet. Cold. It was wonderful!

A tasty lunch prepared by Fahriye in the summer room of a house built 200 years ago by one of her grandfathers (great-great, maybe add another great). Questions posed, answers given, obvious affection between Fahriye and Togay. An intimate and cozy setting that wouldn’t have been the same without the rain; instead we would have all sat outside, not seeing the open pole ceiling, the picture of her on the wall at 25 at a loom, the carpet she and her mother and her aunt wove over a three month period. We were all honored to share such a day with her.

Communication

For this trip I considered buying a local Türkiye mobile SIM card package. I did not partly because of reviews and cost but mostly because I wanted my phone to be active as soon as we landed without paying my carrier’s $10/day roaming charges. I settled on Airalo and I’m satisfied.

For $10 (after a $3 voucher discount) I purchased a 30 day 3 GB data-only eSIM, good for 39 countries (we’re going to Greece after the RS Tour). There are plenty of discussions about this on the Rick Steves Technical Tips forum.

I don’t need phone service so data only is fine. I can and have made WiFi calls through WhatsApp. It works perfectly for Google Maps, web, email, and iMessage. One full week into the trip I’ve used just under half of the 3GB, most of which was while in Istanbul for finding our way around. I can purchase additional GB if I do run out.

Turkcel in Istanbul was $30, though I think that was for unlimited data. It is, however, limited to Türkiye,

Airalo was the right choice for me.

So descriptive!
I feel like I am there too.
I don’t take organised tours, but I have been to Turkey three times and loved it.
We have friends who live in Bursa and are so welcoming.

The people make it special!

lynn3374, thanks for letting me know you’re enjoying the report. That warms me.

The rain, not the cold so much, is typical sort of for the season in Cappadocia. Tagoy said normally the region has 40 days of rain at this time (he didn’t specify when that starts), with sprinkles and light showers often in the afternoon. In the storm I described above in Local Lunch, he said we got all 40 days worth in about 30 minutes.

Jamelie and I find weather exciting so, no, it does not dampen our spirits nor anyone else’s in this tour group actually. On the contrary it enhances the trip, bringing the landscape into relief, freshening the streets. Maybe it’s Patagonia or REI that pointed out “there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad preparation”. Besides, we were born wet, everything after is an adjustment.

I look forward to reading your entries every morning as I sip the first cup of coffee. Yes we feel like we’re tagging along. Many thanks!

Hanemeli

I had chosen a few restaurants to visit on this trip and Hanemeli was highest on the list. I asked Togay if I was on the right track; he said definitely and made a reservation for us, along with two of our bestest newfound tour friends, T & J.

The restaurant is family owned, with two brothers running the dining room, mom in the kitchen down below, their young sons bringing the food up the stairs, and either wives or sisters managing the movement. Erhan and Serkan are friends of Togay for 14 years…of course. Togay knows everyone.

Their Anatolian food is fabulous. A few of the dishes we ordered are similar to either Lebanese recipes I was raised with or other Mediterranean cuisine we have adopted. I happily watched T. try one dish in particular that we frequently make at home, lentil köfte. It was like experiencing the magical flavor and texture for the first time again through the absolute joy on his face. A uniquely Cappadocian dessert was reduced grape syrup, butter, flour, and water. It has look and texture similar to Spanish membrillo, but is not as sweet.

We all ate more than we should and paid $18, including beer and wine.

I would recommend all my friends to eat Hanimaeli when in the area.

When we left we met a distinguished looking gentleman standing on the street near the doorway. He proudly told us his sons own the restaurant.

Rock In

We visited two of Cappadocia’s truly fascinating attractions today

The monasteries and churches chiseled into the rocks of Göreme Open-Air Museum fall into the just-when-you-think-you’ve-seen-everything category. The engineering required to excavate the space to reveal columns, domes, and arches within the rock is a wonder. The frescoes (they looked more like tempura to me), though deteriorated in many of the cave spaces, are well preserved in the Dark Church, with vibrant, colorful, and detailed depictions of the life of Christ.

We arrived early enough to avoid most of the crowds, which is a must. Yesterday’s rain was the gift that kept giving because it forced us to postpone our visit until this morning. The rooms are small and stairs and ramps can easily become clogged. There is a long and steep in places climb to get to the sites.

It’s easy to understand how Kaymaklı underground city would have protected its Hittite inhabitants whenever the need arose. The narrow passage ways, with their less than 5’ ceilings, made it easy to trap and attack invaders (random calf high holes through which to thrust spears). The passageways could be quickly sealed off by rolling a large rock disc weighing 5 metric tons into place. If not on a RS Tour I would hire a guide to explain the rooms and history.

Several of our group had trouble in this confined space, bordering on panic attack. You have to stoop and duck walk for several to as much as 25 meters at a time to pass through, in single file...no room to turn around. With crowds ahead and pressing from behind, it’s easy to feel like you’re trapped and can’t move. If you are claustrophobic or unable to walk bent over downhill you might consider skipping this, though that would be unfortunate. You will most likely bump your head at least once.

bummed I missed out eating at that restaurant! Though I am pretty sure some of our tour members ate there. We too had a rain deluge (in September) and for our safety and preservation of dry clothing ended up at Old Greek House instead (delicious too).

I laughed out loud at this description of the underground city:

If you are claustrophobic or unable to walk bent over downhill you
might consider skipping this, though that would be unfortunate.

I am both of those things but I did it anyway, just muttered "just keep moving" over and over as we moved through the scarier parts. One of our tour members got us all laughing when she asked that no one pass gas. A once in lifetime experience for sure.

A very nice day (çok güzel bir gün)

Our last afternoon in Mustafapaşa we took a short walk into the village to buy postcards and granddaughter trinkets. Mr Çebeli invited us into his shop (of course).

For the past 8 months I’ve diligently spent 1-2 hours a day learning Turkish. My vocabulary is pretty broad, accent not too awful, and I have a sound understanding of the rules of grammar (it’s in my brain here somewhere). Turkish verb conjugation and suffixes are tricky and by no means do I really speak it but can usually (sometimes?) get my point across. Listening and easily understanding spoken Turkish ? Fuhgetaboutit.

But Bay Çelebi just loved that I was trying and after several back and forth exchanges he said, “I want you to come into my house, sit for 5 minutes”. He led us through the warren of rooms in his building (he owns), upstairs to “the winter room”, where he made us tea. We climbed another flight of stairs to the veranda overlooking the street, sat, watched the people below, and chatted for 30 minutes. He spoke mostly in limited accented English, slowly when in Turkish, and corrected my errors as we talked about our lives, families, Mustafapaşa, Türkiye, people. He served in the Turkish army as a non-commissioned officer and, when he retired in 1984, returned to the village where he was born, purchased the building we were in, started a fabric business, and employed several families in what was then a very economically depressed village.

Any time I managed to put together a complete sentence he beamed.

When it was time to leave he told us, “anytime you are visiting Mustafapaşa, you come, sit here, have tea, enjoy”

Back on the street I said, “görüşürüz benim arkadaşım” (see you later my friend). Bay Çelebi grabbed my hand, crinkled his eyes into a smile, chuckled, nodded, and said, “benim arkadaşım”.

Çok güzel bir gün!

Uh-Oh

Less than halfway through this trip and my belt is telling me I may have already met my accepted goal of gaining 5-7 pounds, emphasis on the 7.

Travel just doesn't get any better than your encounter with your new friend, Mr Çebeli.

Congrats to you on making it possible with your language study. I couldn't even get the hang of thank you.

Teşekkürler, for sharing your story!

I previously read CW’s trip report on Turkey and loved it. Now I’m loving yours. We have booked our Greece tour for next spring ( booked after a medical event made us cancel this spring) and now I may need to rearrange it to add on Turkey.
Keep the reports coming as I’m enjoying it thoroughly.

On the Road Again

Mosque visit

An opportunity to speak with the Imam, questions about Islam asked and answered. The mosque was peaceful, the Imam gracious.

Sultanhanı Karavanseraı

In the town of Istikamet are the ruins of a main stop over for caravans traveling the silk route. It’s been partially restored in the last three years, with most of the facade looking like it once did, the courtyard and dormitories accessible and the stables open. In the stables is an exhibition of vintage carpets which, though temporary, has been in place since before last fall. They didn’t show us anything like these when we visited the carpet cooperative in Cappadocia!

Konya

A conservative (no alcohol served or sold anywhere) but modern city with a vibrant downtown. Friday night crowded, more than normal because the Turkish Air Force version of our Blue Angels was performing. Big noise overhead, from where we happened to be only saw one plane, but he did a spectacular and precise double roll.

Walked through the Women’s Market, so-called because it used to consist of only women who sold from their gardens. Today it’s an open market with mounds of succulent fresh fruits and vegetables, exciting the olfactory as well as the visual. Stalls selling cheese, grains, huge tubs of tomato or pepper paste, fresh meats from all domestic animals (including all body parts…I’ll skip the goat heads and pig brains). One butcher showcased the largest and finest oxtails I’ve ever seen. Those I would cook. Everything needed to prepare the perfect meal was available. We munched our way through with a purchase of dried garbanzos, 25 Tl for 3 grams, a double handful.

The Mevlanı Museum and Mausoleum, bedsides being a beautiful building, holds many books of Rumi’s poetry as well as the Quran. They are written in the most delicate calligraphy and adorned with complex geometric or floral drawings. (That description doesn’t begin to do them justice). The displays of tools and accoutrement of the Sufi was illuminating. It’s been a while since I‘ve read anything by the Mevlani but it may be time to do so again.

Everything about yesterday has gone with yesterday. Today, it is needed to say new things - Rumi

True that CWSocial. Language, even a little, opens many doors. Language is born of culture; exposure to the former is one key to the latter.