10 days in Bavaria with Adele - Solo Trip

Day 2: Dachau

I started the day by catching the 8:30 am train from Munich's main station to Dachau. Upon arriving at the station, I easily followed the signs to the bus that takes visitors directly to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site. The site opens at 9 am, and I arrived shortly after it did. This timing was ideal—I had the place nearly to myself, which only deepened the somber atmosphere of the memorial.

Walking through Dachau, I was struck by the scale of the camp. Although what remains today is only a portion of the original site, the historical photos and maps displayed in the exhibits reveal just how massive the camp once was. The realization of this vastness added another layer of weight to the experience. I took my time exploring the entire site, visiting each religious memorial, pausing to say a prayer, and reflecting on the state of the world today. The camp remained quiet and relatively empty until about 10:30 am, when I noticed a line forming for information and audio guides. For anyone planning a visit, I highly recommend arriving as early as possible to fully absorb the gravity of the site in peace.

After leaving Dachau, I returned to Munich and made a stop at the Viktualienmarkt for a beer. The previous day's visit to the English Garden had been so enjoyable that I decided to return for another round. As I walked through the park, I found a shady spot by the river, surrounded by countless others who seemed to have the same idea. I took off my shoes, pulled out my copy of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, and settled into a leisurely rhythm of reading a page, then scanning the park to soak in the atmosphere. At one point, a friendly dog wandered over and decided to rest beside me. His owners, a laid-back couple about 15 feet away, didn't seem to mind his new resting spot.

After a while, I had soaked up enough sun and decided to head back to my hotel for a quick nap before dinner. That evening, I found a charming restaurant with a street-side patio and ordered a hearty meal of roasted pork with potato dumplings in beer gravy. The food was satisfying, and afterward, I took a leisurely stroll through the streets to walk off some of the calories.

As I wandered, I couldn’t help but compare Munich to my last destination, Madrid. Munich, and Germany in general, has a much earlier rhythm to its evenings. While Madrid’s nightlife is famously late, I found it striking how early the shops in Munich’s city center close—often around 8 pm. If you’re a night owl, you might need to adjust your expectations here.

Day 3: Adele’s Spectacular Show

After grabbing my morning cappuccino, I made my way to St. Peter’s Church and took on the challenge of climbing to the top. The stairs were anything but forgiving, and even early in the morning, I was sweating. I can’t imagine how grueling it must be during the heat of a mid-August afternoon. However, the bird’s-eye view of Munich was worth every step, offering a unique perspective that helped me get more familiar with the city’s layout.

Once back on the street, I treated myself to an iced coffee to cool off and spent some time watching the morning hustle—a blend of locals and tourists starting their day’s adventures. Unsure of my next move, I decided to head toward the Hofbräuhaus to see what all the hype was about. Arriving slightly before it opened, I took the opportunity to explore the surrounding streets. To my delight, I found this area to be a treasure trove for touristy souvenirs. Unlike the sparse offerings near Marienplatz, the streets around the Hofbräuhaus scratched my itch for magnets, knick-knacks, and postcards.

When the Hofbräuhaus finally opened its doors, I made my way to the outdoor courtyard and claimed a table. I spent a few leisurely hours updating my travel journal, sipping a beer, and soaking in the sun. Inside, I enjoyed the lively atmosphere of the oompah band and struck up a conversation with a Danish couple who were in town for the Adele concert. I mentioned that I was also attending that evening, and we exchanged stories, adding to my excitement for the night ahead.

After leaving the Hofbräuhaus, I wandered back toward my hotel, making a detour to explore some tattoo shops I’d been eyeing. My curiosity paid off when I found a welcoming shop, and after a brief chat with the team, I found myself reclining in a chair, getting a small but meaningful tattoo—a permanent reminder of my travels.

Adele

That evening, I headed to Adele’s sixth show in Munich, part of her ten-show residency. The journey to the Messestadt Ost station, 13 stops from the central station, was an adventure in itself. With 80,000 fans heading in the same direction, the train ride felt like being packed into a sardine can. I barely managed to board at the main station, and as we crammed in tighter at each stop, it became impossible for anyone new to get on for the last seven stops. It was a slightly uncomfortable half-hour, but the anticipation built with every passing minute.

Arriving at the venue, I was greeted by the spectacle of “Adele World,” an incredible fusion of carnival atmosphere, Oktoberfest cheer, and world-class concert experience all rolled into one. Adele’s performance in the expansive open-air arena was nothing short of spectacular. Singing along with 80,000 fellow fans made it feel like the whole world was united in that moment. I hadn’t planned my trip around seeing Adele, but when I discovered she’d be performing in Munich during my visit, I knew I had to get a ticket. The show was an unforgettable crescendo to my German adventure.

Day 4

I woke up to a rainy morning, with plans to hop on a train to Salzburg. However, after getting soaked and a bit turned around at the train station, I missed the first train. Sitting on the next one, I started contemplating the idea of a two-hour train ride in my already soaked clothes and the possibility of spending the day sightseeing in the rain. It didn’t take long for me to decide against it. I headed back to my hotel and crawled back into bed. Maybe it was a case of post-party depression after the amazing night with Adele, but the extra sleep was much needed. Austria will have to wait for another trip.

The unexpected free day in Munich gave me the chance to explore the Munich Residenz. This former royal palace was a fascinating site, and while I made my way through it in about an hour, it’s a place where you could easily spend half a day if you’re more deeply interested in history and architecture. Afterward, I found myself returning to the Hofbräuhaus for a repeat visit.

While walking around the Residenz, I noticed my knee making a cracking noise so loud I could hear it even with my headphones on. I don’t have any serious knee issues, but I decided to play it safe and find a knee brace. The closest promising option was a sporting goods store called Decathlon, located just a block from Munich’s central station. I’m mentioning this store because it was surprisingly well-priced and stocked with items that could be handy while traveling. I picked up a knee sleeve for €10, and they had everything from water bottles to shoes, backpacks, and even tents.

With my new knee brace on, I left the store and spotted a nearby park, the Alter Botanischer Garten (Old Botanical Garden). It’s a quiet little park with a beer garden just a few blocks from the train station. I grabbed a few beers, found a nice table, and spent some time journaling.

After a quick nap back at the hotel, I decided to hunt for some sushi for dinner. A quick Google search led me to a spot, but when I arrived, I found out it was vegan sushi—not quite what I was craving. I wandered around a bit more and eventually found a great little Korean Bibimbap place just outside the Marienplatz. I ate outside and enjoyed some people-watching. Being a Saturday, the city center was noticeably more crowded than on the previous days. As the sun set, casting a warm orange glow on the church rooftops, I took in the scene, savoring my last night in Munich. Tomorrow, I move on to the next chapter of my journey.

Day 5 - Fussen

I checked out of my hotel and hopped on the tram across town to pick up my rental car. After a bit of confusion over accidentally ordering an electric car, I finally got my ride and started driving toward Füssen. The rain was coming down hard by this point, making highway driving a bit intimidating, but after about an hour, I turned off onto the country roads lined with farms and forests. The scenery was a refreshing change, and I felt the excitement building as I followed the signs toward Füssen.

Upon arrival, I parked at P5 underground parking, which is €16 per day, but my hotel subsidized the cost, bringing it down to €11 per day. I decided to treat myself to a stay at Hotel Schlosskrone Füssen, a Rick Steves-recommended hotel. Unfortunately, check-in wasn’t until 4 pm, and it was only around 11 am, so I had some time to kill. I left my bags in the car and caught the next bus (Bus 73) up to Neuschwanstein. Thankfully, my D-ticket made hopping on the bus a breeze.

When I got off the bus at the base of the hill, the skies were once again threatening rain. Undeterred, I started the uphill walk without a clear idea of where I was going. My main goal wasn’t to see the inside of the castle but to get that iconic photo from Mary’s Bridge. A sign indicated that the bridge was a 40-minute walk away, which was a bit discouraging given the steep and wet conditions. However, being in decent shape and walking quickly, I made it to the bridge in just 17 minutes, right as the rain began to pour down.

The bridge was packed with tourists, all trying to capture the same view. I ran out to the middle, snapped a few quick photos, and then scrambled back to wait, hoping the rain would let up. After 20 minutes with no break in the weather, I decided to call it a day. I took the road back down in the pouring rain. Despite wearing a jacket, I had no umbrella, but I doubt it would have helped much anyway. By the time I reached the castle, I was soaked through. I kept walking, passing the castle and making my way back to the bus stop for a very soggy ride back into town.

I was really hoping my room would be ready when I got back to Hotel Schlosskrone, but no such luck. Wet, cold, and stranded without a room, I found the nearest café, Bäckerei Brunners, and treated myself to a cappuccino and their apple strudel—definitely a five-star treat! Finally, around 3:30 pm, I was able to check in, change into dry clothes, and warm up. My room on the second floor was lovely, with a balcony offering a modest view of the mountains, slightly obscured by a tree in front of the hotel. The hotel itself is very nice, with amenities like a sauna, gym, restaurant, and pastry shop.

For dinner, I kept it simple and grabbed a quick, easy, and cheap kebab from Imbiss Saray, just around the corner from my hotel. After such a wet and tiring day, it was time for some much-needed sleep. Here’s hoping for better weather and clearer views of the castles tomorrow.

Day 6

My first full day in Füssen started with another overcast morning, though at least it wasn’t raining. After grabbing a coffee and a croissant, I caught the first bus of the day at 7:30 am from the main bus station up to the castles. Once again, I began the climb up to Mary’s Bridge, but this time the trail was eerily quiet—I was completely alone. When I reached the bridge, I found myself the only person there, allowing me to take all the photos and selfies I wanted without any interruptions.

After my photo session, I crossed the bridge and followed the trail that leads to an even higher vantage point. This elevated spot offered a breathtaking view of the castle and the valley below, and I was able to enjoy 20 uninterrupted minutes alone at this scenic vista. Toward the end, I noticed just one other couple down on the bridge. These are the moments I live for—waking up early to beat the crowds and savoring a serene and intimate experience. It’s absolutely worth it!

After descending the trail to the castle entrance and snapping a few more photos, I headed back toward the main village. I took a break to warm up with another coffee before purchasing a ticket for a tour of Hohenschwangau. The tour was fantastic, guided by someone who really brought the history to life, making it well worth the price of admission. While I didn’t tour the inside of Neuschwanstein, I’ve heard that Hohenschwangau is the better of the two. One of the highlights for me was the telescope in the window, pointed directly at Neuschwanstein. You can almost picture Mad King Ludwig standing there, watching the progress of his dream.

After the castle tours, I spent the rest of the day exploring Füssen. It’s a small town with few major attractions, but it’s charming and unique. I enjoyed a leisurely walk by the river and browsed through the little shops, eventually picking up a beautiful necklace for my girlfriend at Juwelier Gaby’s Schmuckinsel. The shop is located right on the main pedestrian street, and the staff were incredibly helpful and attentive.

As the day wound down, I headed back to my hotel for a good night’s sleep, ready to move on to Rothenburg in the morning.

Day 7 - Rothenburg

Driving in Germany has been a pleasure; everyone adheres to the rules of the road—slow traffic stays right, and passing happens on the left. Despite this, traffic and a few accidents turned my journey to Rothenburg into a roughly three-hour drive. Upon arrival, I parked in the P5 lot, used the kiosk to purchase a two-day pass, and placed the receipt on my dashboard.

Entering Rothenburg, I was immediately captivated by its medieval charm. The town was exactly as I had imagined, with no modern buildings in sight. After locating my hotel, I set out to explore. I wandered through the square and headed toward Plönlein to join the crowd photographing this iconic street. Further down, I discovered an entrance to the city wall and decided to hike a stretch to enjoy a view of the city from above. Being in Rothenburg felt deeply rewarding, as if I was connecting with a rich tapestry of human history.

Returning to the Klosterstüble Hotel, I checked in and found it to be my favorite hotel of the entire trip. Located just down the street from Käthe Wohlfahrt, it is nestled in a quiet part of town, even quieter for Rothenburg. My stay here was delightful, and I highly recommend it.

After a refreshing shower and some rest, I ventured outside the city walls to hike down into the valley to the Tauber River. My destination was Toppler Castle. The wooded trails and open fields provided a beautiful backdrop, with occasional glimpses of the city from a different perspective. At the Tauber, I noticed the river was teeming with life—fish floating motionless, waiting for an insect to land on the surface. As an angler, it was a welcome sight!

Toppler Castle was closed for tours when I arrived, but even so, the short walk from the city was worth it. I imagined peasants and farmers living outside the walls, looking up at this fortified town. The rest of the evening was spent people-watching, enjoying a few beers, and shopping for gifts. I also visited The Friese Shop, recommended by Rick Steves. Although the shop no longer sells cuckoo clocks and has an old-fashioned appearance, the owner, Bernie, was a delightful conversationalist. We chatted about life, travels, and our mutual interests. It was clear he enjoys meeting people who come through Rick’s guides. If you’re in town, stop by and say hello—it’s definitely worth it.

Day 8

I’m an early bird so at 6am I walked back to the town square and enjoyed the space by myself then down the road to Plönlein for some more unencumbered pictures of Plönlein. This was an awesome time to snap photos of one of the most photographed spots in Europe. As the light from the rising sun started to paint its colors on the streets, I was free to capture the moment free of other tourists. I popped in to what would be the main source of sustenance while in Rothenburg, Brot & Zeit. I would end up here for breakfast, lunch, and sometimes dinner. It is a great cheap option for all three if you don’t mind sandwiches instead of a sit down dinner. I climbed the stairs of the Town Hall Tower to take in the view, worth the €3 or €4. Once again I was the only one on top which is good because it is tight quarters up there! Later in the morning I went outside the walls again down to the river past St. Johannis church and on to Doppelbrücke (double bridge). I really love the feeling outside the walls, it has a quiet calm that speaks to your soul. Turning the corner, I found a steep trail that avoids going back to town on the road and once on top I explored the Spital Gate entrance.

After another one of my mid-day naps I spent the afternoon shopping for presents, picking up a few wooden smokers at Käthe Wohlfahrt and some other ornaments and trinkets at some of the many tourist shops. I did the tour of the Crime and Punishment museum, a fun stop but did not blow me away. For dinner I ordered the schnitzel at Restaurant Klosterstüble which is attached to my hotel then walked back to the square to await the Night Watchman. The tour was probably the best 9€ you can spend in Germany. It is fun, educational, and entertaining. More of a talk and less of a walk, you will learn a lot about the history of the town and hopefully enjoy a beautiful sunset on the red roofs of Rothenburg. Lovely day, time to rest and on to Bacharach tomorrow.

Day 9

I woke up to a chilly morning in Rothenburg and made my way to my breakfast spot for a much-needed caffeine boost. The early hours provided a unique and tranquil perspective of the town's sights and sounds. After saying goodbye, I hit the road for Bacharach. Traffic was heavy, and a few accidents on the highway extended the drive to nearly 4 hours.

Arriving in Bacharach, my first impression was, “Wow, this is small.” I parked my car on the street just outside the city along the main drag, where hourly parking machines are available. As I wandered through town, I found my hotel, but the reception was closed with a sign indicating they’d be back at 2:30 pm.

Undeterred, I explored the town, though I was surprised by how many shops and restaurants were closed. It’s unclear whether they were closed for the day, on vacation, or if I had arrived during off-hours. Adding to the challenge, there were no public bathrooms that I could find, which was a problem after a long drive. Eventually, I discovered a restaurant with a restroom and managed to use it discreetly.

For lunch, I ended up at Posthof Bacharach, the busiest place in town. I was seated with another solo traveler, a Japanese woman staying at the hostel in the castle. We exchanged pleasantries and wished each other safe travels. I ordered spaetzle and a beer, and we chatted briefly despite the language barrier.

After lunch, I hiked up the hill past Wernerkapelle and towards Hostel Burg Stahleck. This provided my first good view of the Rhine and Bacharach, and I was charmed by the vineyard-lined hills surrounding the city.

I checked into Bacharacher Hof, my hotel for the stay. Centrally located, the modest room was perfect for my solo adventure, though I didn’t get a chance to use the indoor pool and sauna. For dinner, I dined at Pippo Bistro, a simple Italian place. I enjoyed half of a pizza and saved the rest for lunch the next day.

Before calling it a night, I climbed the observation tower just up the hill from the bistro. The views from the top were a fitting end to the day.

Wow! I would love to see Adele in concert and being in Bavaria to see it would be awesome! We loved Rothenburg and also ventured outside the walls to see the Toppler house. So interesting!

DC_Dave, what a wonderful trip report! Love your engaging writing, and really enjoyed hearing about your travels! I will definitely keep this available for my next trip to Germany. It's been awhile since I've been to Bavaria.

I had to laugh about you cancelling the trip at the train station, but I don't blame you a bit! I did some about-faces a couple of times on my trip earlier this year, and never regretted it. Sometimes you just need a vacation from your vacation. :-) I loved hearing about the Adele concert, too—that must have been wonderful! Thanks for the report!

Day 10

Today is my birthday, I'm turning 41 today. I wake up early and climb the observation tower to watch the sun peak over the mountains and illuminate the Rhine and the city of Bacharach. These were great pictures and a perfect way to start my birthday. After breakfast I headed down to the river to purchase a ticket for a boat tour. I purchased the Bacharach to St.Goar section for about €22. While I waited for the 9am cruise I chatted with the kind lady who works the ticket booth. She was from Denmark or the Netherlands, I cannot remember but has lived in Germany for many years. I told her I was traveling alone because my girlfriend didn’t have enough time off work to come with me. She had a hard time understanding that we only get about 2 weeks off a year. She explained she works about 9 months and the rest is vacation time spread out throughout the year. This made me reflect on our culture in America and push for productivity. At 9am I hopped on the boat and enjoyed the short 1 hour cruise down the Rhine. The shore is lined with castles and interesting cities, my favorite being Pfalzgrafenstein Castle. As the boat approached the shore I prepared to hop off and I met a family from my home state. We chatted for a bit as we disembarked. Unfortunately, while I was busy talking I didn’t realize I was getting off at the wrong stop. I left the boat at Sankt Goarshausen which at first glance looks a lot like Sankt Goar which was the next stop. Staring at my google maps, trying to figure out how to make the train back to Bacharach, I can’t help but laugh at my misfortune. I wander around trying to figure things out when I see what looks like a ferry crossing. Fortunately for me my mistake wasn’t that costly. €3 got me across the river and to the correct city of St.Goar where I could hop on the train back to Bacharach. I had 40 minutes to kill before the train would arrive so I wandered through the small town finding my way to Montag Steins & Clocks which was the most tourist store I have found in the Rhine cities. It was a great shop with a nice selection of clocks and trinkets and of course a sign displaying their Rick Steve’s recommendation. I take the short 12 minute ride back to town for some rest, lunch, then new adventure.

After a quick lunch I hop in my car to take to the road to find Burg Eltz. This is a very beautiful drive that takes you across the Mosel. Besides the rolling hills, switchbacks, and sprawling farms, my favorite site on the drive was Thurant Castle. I would love to go back and try a tour but I was short on time and energy. I arrived at the parking lot for Eltz castle and after paying the €3.50 to park, I started hiking down the hill. I didn’t take the footpath, opting instead for the road which seemed like a more direct route and also what my google maps recommended. When you first see the castle it takes your breath away. Simply amazing to see the towering fortress rising out of the German forest untouched for 1,000 years. I paid my €14,00 entry and stood in a line for an English tour. The first line I was in was definitely not English but I found my way to the correct queue. Once inside I enjoyed the 45 minute tour and once again the guide was excellent. Tip your guides! After learning about the history of the castle and seeing the wonderful artifacts, I did a quick run through the treasury and the gift shop before heading back to my car. Turns out Steve is right, this is the best castle in Europe. I’m glad I made it today on my birthday. I enjoyed the ride back to Bacharach, taking in as much of the fresh German air as I could. Once back to homebase I decided to treat myself to a birthday dinner at Café Burg-Stahleck. After dinner I strolled down to the waterfront to find a fairly large wine festival happening. I’m not a big wine fan but I enjoyed watching the events and enjoying the evening light. It has been an amazing birthday and now it is time to go home.

Day 11

I woke up and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at my hotel. This was one of the nicest features of my stay at Bacharacher Hof. The owner prepared breakfast every morning that included more American staples of my diet like eggs and bacon! After breakfast I took the one hour drive to Frankfurt Airport and boarded the Boeing 777 on my way home. This has been an amazing trip and my first time traveling alone in Europe. Now I’m home dreaming of the next adventure.

Nice trip report! Germany is great. I much enjoy my visits there!

Thank you for your great trip report. Keep on travelling :o)

DC_Dave, thanks for sharing this great trip report. I enjoyed reading it with my morning coffee. You're a great writer.

Enjoyed the report. A380-800, my favorite aircraft to travel on.