Travel in Morocco

Here's part of your answers:

I've entered Morocco a bunch of times, never with evidence of a means of egress. Nobody's ever said squat.

Regarding dividing time between Fez and Marrakech; I wouldn't divide it, I'd spend all my time in Fez.

Use directferries.co.uk to figure out your ferry business, it's easy to use.

Oncf is the rail site. I just look at it again and it seemed to work okay to build a dummy trip from Marrakech to Tanger.

Agree with most of what Ed said - didn't need to show a return ticket though that dosen't mean the regulation is not on the books.

Agree, that Fez is worth visiting though I also like Marrakesh. Fez seems more authentic (old medina) while Marrakesh is more touristy and easier to navigate/get around.

Katie,

Here is what I can say:

1) I am also considering spending a day in Fes. It is a 7-8 hour train ride from Marrakech to Fes and a 5 hour train ride from Fes to Tangier. The train from Marrakech to Tangier is also 7-8 hours. Has anyone been to Fes? Is it worth a whole day of my trip wasted on train travel? Or should I just enjoy Marrakech and then take the train to my ferry?

I would not try to do Fes in one day. It is a large city and confusing to an outsider. It is, as others have said very intriguing and a great place to visit. However, personally, I enjoyed Marrakech more. I thought it a bit more exotic, more beautiful, and much easier to navigate. Plus, there are some great day trips if you want. Your guidebook can help you with those.

2) What is the website for the Moroccan rail system? Can I look at prices and make reservations there? A google search turned up something called Oncf, but I don't see the option to make a reservation. Are reservations necessary?

ONCF is the national rail carrier. It is not necessary to book ahead, but if you are worried, just book when you arrive in Marrakech for your train out. There is a 9PM train that leaves Marrakech and arrives in Tanger at 7:45 in the morning.

Regarding a return ticket, I did not have anybody ask to see anything, ever. However, if your guide book says so, then I suppose it is possible. Honestly, I think that if they see you are an American, you are not looking to stay long term. I think that law is probably for the many asylum seekers they get from sub-saharan Africa.

Here is a sample itinerary, if you like:

Day 1- Arrive Marrakech

Day 2- Marrakech

Day 3- Marrakech

Day 4- Day trip

Day 5- Morning train to Rabat, spend night in Rabat

Day 6- Morning train to Tanger

Rabat is a beautiful city, and worth your time. However, if you want, just spend another day in Marrakech, there is plenty to do. Then use the night train to get to Tanger.

I'm confused about the day trip that Mike mentions - is this to Fez or somewhere else. Fez requires more than just a couple of hours. I would suggest at least 2 days/1 night in Fez and reduce the time in Marrakesh.

No, you are right, Fez is not what I am suggesting as a day trip. What i mean is that there are plenty of places near Marrakech that would be great day trips, such as the Ourika valley, Amizmiz, and the Setti Fatma. Fes is way too far to do as a day trip.

Don't get me wrong, Fes is great, but I personally enjoyed Marrakech more. The Medina and souks were much more accessible to a foreigner, frankly because they get more tourists. However, quiet spots where no Westerners go are easy to find in the city. Plus, the gardens and palaces are lots of fun. Additionally, it had much more of an African feel, probably because it was not founded by Arabs, like Fes.

If I had to pick one city to return to in Morocco, it would be Marrakech.

Been to both a couple times.

I think both Marrakesh and Fes are worth visiting, even if you only have a day or two there (mind you, that's at least a full day there, not a day trip). Agree that Marrakesh is somewhat more "accessible" for westerners (easier, less challenging) but nobody should be scared off by Fes - it's probably the best-preserved medieval city in the world.

I wouldn't worry much about showing an onward ticket upon arrival. You're a western tourist, they know you have money and you're not coming there to work illegally.

No need to book train tickets far in advance. Just book when you arrive, you'll be fine. The train system is quite good (legacy of the French).

I'm going to make a (perhaps radical) suggestion about your itinerary: don't bother with Tangier or any of the ferry-linked cities on the north coast: they are largely tourist traps designed to snag day-trippers from Europe. They are "border towns" - the north African equivalent of Tijuana. If all you can manage is a few hours via ferry from Algeciras then I can see the appeal. But you are going to Marrakesh (and maybe Fes) - the real Morocco. No need to waste your time fending off the carpet salesmen and hucksters working the day trippers. I would suggest instead you use those extra couple days to see more of the real country (Fes, maybe short trips from Marrakesh - I recommend Ait Benhaddou, across the High Atlas Mountains). Don't waste time & money getting to the ferry and then ferrying across. Fly. It's cheaper. There are low fare airlines that fly from Marrakesh or Fes to a dozen cities on the continent (dirt cheap).

Have fun.