Marseille, France

Marseille is covered in Rick's Provence And The French Riviera book. If you're going to this area, get it - it has substantially more detail on the region than his general France book.

To get from Marseille to Nice, train is the way to go; it's about 3 hours with frequent service. There are discounts if you book in advance and can accept non-refundable, non-exchangeable tickets. While some can book on the official website of SNCF http://en.voyages-sncf.com/en/ (refuse to be re-directed to Rail Europe), many have problems, and do better with Capitain Train: https://www.captaintrain.com/

I enjoyed my visit there, but didn't find much English (my French got enormously better in my 2 days there). Others disagree on both counts - they find English speakers, but also find it gritty and unappealing. It's certainly not "groomed" for tourists.

Last November I visited Marseille for the second time. I thoroughly enjoyed both visits and found the city to be unique and underrated. Interesting museums, boat rides around Chateau D'if to the calanques, artisan neighborhoods, marvelous cathedral, great food. Don't forget to have bouillabaisse - expensive but it's part of the Marseille experience. Make sure you visit Vieux Porte to see the fish mongers in the morning. I did a blog on my trip last year. Here's an excerpt of my entries on the "second city."

Marseille - the Bronx of France
Having been raised in the Bronx, the only borough of NYC actually on the mainland of the U.S., I’m entitled to make this comparison. Manhattan is ultra-chic, Staten Island pastoral, Brooklyn, well it’s Brooklyn (not the same since the Dodgers left) and Queens is a cross between the three. The Bronx is a stepchild, joked about, vilified and ignored. The same holds true for Marseille. A port on the Mediterranean with a less than stellar reputation, it has attracted refugees, sailors, smugglers, thieves and illegals through its history. Émigrés from every country on the Mediterranean and crime families from Corsica. But that is what has made it the city that is Marseille. Unloved, under served, and thought of as less than second class by the rest of France. It is the Bronx of France.
Gritty, dirty and unkempt…but special and unique. A melting pot of nations that goes back centuries. A cultural hodgepodge that is intriguing. Just like any major city, it has its slums and uber rich. But they coexist remarkably well and tolerance of different beliefs is widespread. The city bustles with business during the day and teems with nightlife after work. The Marseillaise know how to enjoy life.

Just noticed that Anthony Bourdain's show on CNN this Sunday is from Marseille. Also rail connection from Marseille to Nice is quick and easy with conveniently located stations.