My husband and I will be travelling to Scotland for 2 or 3 weeks sometime in Summer of 2008. We haven't decided exactly when to go, but will probably avoid festival time in August. I hope it won't be, but I fear that this will be my only chance to visit Scotland, so I pretty much want to see EVERY part of the country! I know this is not possible, so I would be so grateful for suggestions of must sees/itineraries. My tentative plan so far is to start in Edinburgh, move to Glasgow and then travel around the country along the western coast, travelling inland when there is someplace to stop. I definitely want to spend some time in Inverness and use it as a base for day trips. I would love to also see as many of the recommended islands as possible. Would love to do Orkney, but don't know how to work it all in. Then I guess we'd come back down the east coast and back into Edinburgh. My main question (although I am open to advise on any topic) is how to get around. I have heard that travelling long distances by car is slow and frsutrating. Is it possible to take trains from one major jumping off point to another and then rent cars in places where we will be for more than 1 night (Inverness, Skye)?
Gretchen -
There are several things to consider. 80% of the Scots live in either Glasgow or Edinburgh. Thus - public transport outside of the general region can be very minimal. For the western isles a car can be very helpful such as with the Isle of Skye - because you can get to far out places such as Egol - beautiful view. Also such as with the Isle of Harris and Lewis - you can reach them by ferry - then drive.
Fort William can be a good base - on the opposite end from Inverness. This is a great link to most of the western region including Oban - Mallaig - Portree - Glencoe etc.
I would suggest you look at the Scottish Tourism website - always helpful. Typically - I only stay in B&B other than my first night in and last night out. Car rental can be reasonable and offer the freedom you will possibly want to explore.
My husband and I have traveled in Scotland by rail and bus for many, many years-(40= trips). This summer we did more than 2 weeks. WE HAVE NEVER DRIVEN OR FELT THE NEED TO. Here's what I'd suggest: Edinburgh- 2 or 3 nights. Train to Aviemore- 2 or 3 nights- great micorbrewery to tour, and other trips- even some whiskey trips. Train to Inverness- 5-7 nights. You can do a day trip to Orkney from Inverness and one to Skye. Then do other day trips- Loch Ness, Culloden and Clava Carnes, and whiskey trips, etc. Glasgow, if you insist- 1 or 2 nights. Let me know if you want more details.
Greetings
There is plenty of public transport outside Edinburgh and Glasgow.The Highlands & Islands can be trickier to get about without a car - especially in the winter - but not impossible.
However, having a car allow you to explore all the various nooks and crannies in the Highlands and more flexibility on the islands.
I'd advise to spend 3-5 days in & around Edinburgh & Glasgow (easy commute by train). Then pick up a rental car at the Edinburgh airport (to avoid Edinburgh roads) to explore points farther north.
I think you need to pick one or two islands if you only have a couple of weeks. Orkney needs at least 5 days or so to be worth the long trip (drive/train, then ferry), and though distances aren't that far, getting to most of the islands is trek due to narrow, windy roads and ferries. If you try to do too much, you'll end up spending all your time travelling...
...
Mull is gorgeous, and 2-3 days will give you plenty of time to see the towns, sunbathe on the beaches, take a cruise to see whales & wildlife and go over to Iona.You could probably spend twice that on Skye and not see it all etc. So I'd look at a map, guide book and CalMac ferry schedule and see what is really possible. You are limited by where the ferries go and when they go. And what you want to spend - it can be expensive to take a car on a ferry.
You will probably need to plan out a general schedule well in advance because some ferry routes are busy, so you need to book ahead for a car space. Other ferries don't take reservations, so you show up and wait until there's space.
I'd recommend June or September - August is crazy with Festivals and July is very busy because that's the month when the kids have summer vacation. But June and September are often the best weather months and much less crowded with tourists.
Kate