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CJW: On the trail of the Orient Experess

There is a gentleman who goes by CJW. CJW’s profession is with the US National Parks Service, and his hobby is travel; travel to Eastern Europe. I had lunch with him in Budapest one day several years ago and found him to be one of the least assuming individuals you could ever hope to meet. Kind, casual easy going but brilliant in his understanding of the world. The sort of gentleman you could talk to for hours, never feel as though you were being lectured to, but still walk away feeling like you had been in a university seminar.

He publishes his diary and in it you will find some of the most descriptive, thought provoking and revealing writing about travel since Patrick Leigh Fermor’s diaries of his trip from Holand to Constantinople. I rarely take a trip any place without first reading CJW’s take on it as there are few better lessons on the culture and history of destinations in Eastern Europe.

I bring this up now because CJW does much of his writing in a format of individual themed series that corresponds with the theme of one of his trips. The one that began about a week ago is “On the Trail of the Orient Express”. I have only begun to read it but it appears that it will begin in Sofia and work north and west. But first to get to Sofia he has to arrive in Frankfurt. No better description of dealing with the Frankfurt airport has ever been written. From there he is starting to digress on to the subject of German train stations and the failures of German and European rail systems. In other words, “Transportation” so I thought it a good fit for this for those that enjoy reading.

https://europebetweeneastandwest.wordpress.com/2026/04/27/yawning-spaces-transiting-through-frankfurt-airport-on-the-trail-of-the-orient-express-1/

Posted by
11441 posts

James, you had me hooked when you me tioned Patrick Leigh Fermor. Off to check ouy CJW's blog ! Thank you

Posted by
11791 posts

We often forget that the Orient Express was not just one service, but a whole suite of train services.

What is interesting (at least to me) is that he starts by saying that he is recreating the route of the Direct Orient Express (one of the services) but is actually travelling an amalgam of the various routes, and not ultimately reaching either Constantinople or Athens. Sadly there is no passenger route currently open to Athens, and the Sofia to Constantinople (Istanbul) route is also currently closed.

And both those closures are a story in themselves. So Constantinople can only currently be reached by the Bucharest route.

It is even more of a story that (as depicted in the movie) there was a connection across the Bosphorus with the Taurus Express which had several routes to Iraq, Syria, Palestine and Egypt. Even if there was peace in the region most of those routes barely if at all exist now.
From Syria the Taurus Express connected with the legendary Hejaz Railway as far as Saudi Arabia.

There is a whole series of really interesting potential travelogues in all of this.

Posted by
6137 posts

Reading his description of the train Bar to Belgrade through Yugoslavia, in another part of his blog, inspired me to do the route.