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Ambitious Train Journey

I have 27 days to plan in between stops in Dublin and Rome. The trip will take place in late October and early November.

My thoughts are to do most of the trip by train. I like flying and it is efficient but with so much time, I think a scenic train journey would be enjoyable.

I would start by either flying to Glasgow or taking the ferry to Holyhead. (Not sure how the seas will be in late October.)

I want to bypass Paris as I’ve been there numerous times. Stops must include Hamburg and Berlin. I do not want to sleep on any train preferring to stop at a hotel. I’d also prefer to limit train time to no more than six hours at a time or per day.

After Berlin, I can’t decide if I should head toward the Rhine Valley and Switzerland or Austria and the Brenner Pass.

Not worried about finding the cheapest tickets or whether a rail pass would be a good idea. I need to plan the journey first.

Any suggestions?

Posted by
16895 posts

Although you don't want to sleep on a train, you might consider sleeping on the overnight Stena Line ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland. I've slept well in ferry cabins and find sleeping to be the best position in case of rougher seas.

Posted by
8319 posts

Scenic train rides can sometimes be enjoyable--like the Norway in a Nutshell tour from Oslo to Bergen.
We took local trains in April from Budapest to Bratislava and from Vienna to Prague--3 1/2 hr. rides. We were uncomfortable from the temperatures and a soccer team that packed our coach.

I'm a fan of budget European airlines that can get me anywhere in Western Europe in 1/2 day for a low price. I now will stay in one region for a week--staying in the same accommodations at least 3-4 nights. And I prefer to see so much more by rental car before moving on to the next destination.
We just love to travel through the Austrian Alps--with Innsbruck in the center. It's easier to travel through and much cheaper than Switzerland--with the same mountains.

Posted by
4183 posts

So the day you leave Dublin is Day 1 of 27? And on Day 27 you leave Rome? That's almost 4 weeks.

I totally get the concept of a scenic rail journey where the going there is as important as being there. It's the rail version of a road trip. In today's rushed world, I suspect not many people do road trips anymore, thinking it's a waste of time. I usually plan rail journeys to see stuff along the way and not just to get from point A to point B. I think you'll have fun doing the planning.

As for your specific question, my suggestion is to do as much research as you can on average temperatures, rainfall, storminess and snow for Switzerland and Austria when you are likely to be there. Realizing that averages are only that, it doesn't hurt to be informed on weather that could affect your choices.

We were snowed in at the top of the Großglockner Hochalpenstraße in late June 2011. We certainly didn't expect that. We experienced very heavy and cold rain and hail in Fiumicino in early November 2014. We didn't expect that either.

Posted by
16278 posts

The ferry is a good idea. I hadn't thought of it. (I could also take a Ferry from Dublin to France and bypass the UK at that time since London is my stop after Rome and I could travel around then.)

I'm already familiar with weather info, sunrise/sunset, etc. Originally the plan was to spend about two weeks in Germany and Austria, leave Europe for two weeks, and then fly directly to Rome. But, I decided against the leaving part. Now, I'm going to take it slow. I have 27 days from leaving Dublin to arriving in Rome.

My biggest question is which route do you people feel is more scenic via train: Down through Austria and the Brenner Pass to Venice down to Rome or down the Rhine Valley, through Switzerland and Milan down to Rome? I driven much of the area in coaches but not by train.

Posted by
570 posts

A possible stop between Hamburg and Berlin would be Luebeck. Interesting city; I love the red brick Gothic architecture!

Posted by
437 posts

What a fun puzzle.

I would do Switzerland to Milan then Rome, only because that is the route we are considering for our next trip. Brenner Pass is lower, very scenic and we've done it twice - and if I went that way I'd have to spend at least 3 days in Venice. Next trip we want to ski Zermatt then head south via Brig to Italy - the road drops right into Lake Maggiore, but I'm not sure about the train.

The ferry to Hook looks fun and you could see a lot in the Netherlands before heading south.

Enjoy the planning and the trip!

Posted by
2574 posts

I think that you had better read this website on rail travel:> http://www.seat61.com

For air travel, you will usually who flies between different places by going to www.skyscanner.net
and click ‘monthly view’ - as some places only have flights on certain days and it will also show you the price variables - as well as which airline is involved. (Note that the cheap airlines usually charge extra for luggage to go in the hold. For baggage to go above your head in the cabin, max size is 55x40x20 centimeters for most of these cheap airlines with 10Kg max weight).

Posted by
3580 posts

Interesting challenge, Frank II. You will be getting into winter season in those more northern places. You could see the north then fly to Palermo and slowly make your way to Rome from there. Palermo to Rome by train would make a very long day (I took this trip 6 years ago) so you could break it up by stopping at the town on the east end of the Messina Straits. Explore southern Italy. Then proceed on to Naples and Rome. Going on the train by ferry is somewhat interesting if you haven't done it before. Getting the train onto the ferry takes time, maybe an hour. Then reversing that process at the other end takes a similar amount of time. During the water passage, passengers can go onto the ferry deck for the view! Sicily was not balmy in early November that year, but somewhat wet, cool, and drizzly. Not beach weather for most people but I did see a couple of surfers.

Posted by
16278 posts

Swan,thanks, Southern Italy is next Spring.

James, thanks for the info. I've had email "chats" with the guy behind Seat 61 over the past few years. I prefer using Google Flights over Skyscanner. I've been traveling to Europe for over 25 years, now spend between 18 and 20 weeks a year there, and I'm looking for new ways to see things.

I've always felt the journey is just as important as the destination unless you are in a rush to get places. I'm no longer in a rush. I enjoy just sitting back and looking out the window of a train. That's why I thought a rail journey from North to South, with a few detours, would be interesting. (I appreciate the suggestion of ferries. They could be an interesting addition.)

I know the BBC did a series titled "Continental Railway Journeys" and I think I'm going to have to find those for ideas. I think they're on Youtube.

Posted by
21153 posts

I too will vote for going to Rome by way of Zurich. In November, the EC train to Milan will still be using the current looping train over the Gotthard Pass. When the December schedule goes into effect, they will start using the new Gotthard Base Tunnel. It will cut a whole lot of time off that train route, but not a lot of scenery inside a 57 km tunnel.

Posted by
3335 posts

Frank II, I can't give you any help other than to encourage this trip. I would love to do this type of trip, and, I am hopeful, some day I will! Love trains and how relaxing they are. With trains you can enjoy every minute of your trip. IMO, flying keeps interrupting one's vacation with tedium. LOL.

Posted by
48 posts

The series was "Great Continental Railway Journeys" with Michael Portillo. I've found a few on YouTube with a theatrical frame placed around the video itself to try to evade the copyright police. Legit DVDs are available though.

Portillo is a rather flamboyant character and the show is fun to watch. He tries to recreate the trips a Brit would have made using the 1913 version of Bradshaw's rail guide. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01rdqn7/episodes/guide

Posted by
2510 posts

Frank II,
I love the Michael Portillo "Continental Railways" journeys show on PBS. My local station just broadcast his trip to St. Petersburg, Russia and a separate show to Venice. He adds quite a bit of history along with the 1913 Bradshaw Railway Guide. Really fun to watch.

Your trip sounds intriguing, I hope you will post a trip report!

Judy B

Posted by
10199 posts

Count me as another one jealous of and fascinated by your trip. Do keep us posted!! (unfortunately I don't have any advice to offer)

But I do want to watch some Portillo episodes too, thanks to all who have brought up that series as well.

Posted by
16278 posts

Well, I guess I should give an update.

As are most of my trips, plans change continually. I leave in 5 weeks and the only thing I have definite are my flights over the pond and the first ten days.

Rome is now out and is postponed until next spring. I again planned to leave Europe for the Middle East for two weeks but postponed that as well. (Fall 2017).

So now I'm back trying to figure out what I'm going to do. No pressure since this trip is only for eight weeks.. And I have to keep the weather into account. I don't mind temperatures in the 40's but below that and I'm not going to be happy.

Posted by
9220 posts

All I can add to your list is that if you are coming anywhere near Frankfurt, you better give a holler' so we can meet for at least a coffee.

Posted by
2393 posts

As most of you know - I love trains! This is how we always travel - the journey is part of the destination! I would go the Rhine Valley - Switzerland route. We did this part way years ago and I would love to do it again.

So easy to keep train times under six hours - we try for under four - that way we can arrive in time for lunch and some afternoon exploring. If we are taking shorter train trips to break up travel between two major stops I like to pick very off the beaten path places to stop for a night. Google maps is a great way to pick a stopping point with a hotel near the train station.

Enjoy!

Posted by
14980 posts

If you're going to Lübeck, you need to go to Hamburg Hbf first if your train left from Berlin Hbf. Then you change for Lübeck. Going from Berlin to Düsseldorf am Rhein on the ICE will fit into the time limit of six hours direct. I did that last June of 2015.

Posted by
4103 posts

With your latest update what general area or city are you hoping to end? I'd like to mull your possible rail journey over but I am no longer clear about where you hope to end up at the end of your 27 days.

Posted by
16278 posts

Update time.....I still have no clue what I am going to do.

After Dublin, the only thing planned is a flight home from London about 7 weeks later. (I like to start and end my European trips in London. It's my favorite city in Europe.)

One possibility is taking the ferry from Dublin to Holyhead (not sure about the weather and seas in late October), train south and then either the Eurostar to Brussels or the ferry to somewhere in Holland. Make my way by train to Hamburg, Berlin, Cologne, Frankfurt, down the Rhine, across Switzerland (have to check on November schedules), and then up the eastern part of France back to London. Of course numerous stops in between.

I've decided to devote my Spring 2017 trip to Italy and Austria. My goal is either two or three 8-10 week international trips per year. (Not necessarily just Europe.) As long as my FF miles hold out.

I feel absolutely no pressure even though I leave in 5 1/2 weeks. :)

Posted by
4103 posts

I'll add another ferry possibility to your train journey. If you end up in France (circumventing Paris) and want to spend some time in a potentially warmer climate before you return to the UK in November, I would recommend some time in Spain and then the ferry from Bilbo to Southampton--if it is still running that late in the season. We once went in the opposite direction in October and it was an interesting 1 1/2 day crossing to cover a lot of distance, connecting two of our destinations, without having to fly.