Alps driving in December?

Would like to focus on small towns, kind of off the beaten track, If they don't function as a winter resort, many Alpine towns virtually shut down or the roads might not be plowed very promptly, if at all. Keep that in mind when venturing "off the beaten track".

Most of the roads in the Alpine regions run through valleys. As long as you're not driving during the actual snowstorms, road conditions are usually fine, particularly leading to and from the major resorts. Make sure you request snow chains from the rental agency, as these are sometimes required if conditions deteriorate.

There are some passes that close seasonally or during particularly heavy storms. For example, the Berner Oberland and the Rhône valley (of which provides access to Zermatt) are not directly accessible by car from the east in the winter. If you're coming from Bavaria or Austria, you would need to drive further to the west then circle back eastwards to reach them.

On an anecdotal level, because I'm a passionate skier, I made very frequent trips to the Alps in the winter during the years I lived in Germany. All of these trips were by car, and driving conditions only caused me major trouble once (and that was from doing something very stupid). As long as you stay on the main roads, concentrate on towns with winter sports infrastructure and keep your plans flexible so that you don't get stuck driving during a storm, you should be fine.

Most of the high elevation scenic passes are closed during winter (told in another way, they are mostly open from May to October). This may severely limit your choice of scenic drives. While major itineraries are routinely cleaned, you cannot bet that roads to isolated places will be kept clean. You may sometimes have to change plans as driving under storms may be difficult and dangerous; exact plans are better done day by day after consulting weather forecasts. Cars should have winter tires that allow you to drive safely in most conditions, but when chains are really necessary IMHO that is the moment to stop driving and consider alternatives. But, on the other side, December is still at the beginning of winter season so there is a chance not to meet too many weather problems.

My personal opinion is that mid-size cities are better for winter travel - temperatures will be near to freezing point and daylight time will be short, so walking in a city where you can always enter a shop, a bar, a church or a museum is better in winter than walking in a village where there are no places to take shelter ever for a few minutes. In the cold, scenic landscapes get boring quickly unless you are doing some sport, and locals stay in their homes like turtles in their shells. As a dweller of a Tyrolese village once told me, winter is boring there and never ending. I remember once leaving my car in the open during a winter night in his village. Weather was wonderful but freezing and when was time to leave in the morning, I found my car encrusted in ice. I began removing ice from the windshield, then I did all the glasses around. By the time I had cleaned all the glasses, the windshield was again iced.

As Tom notes, Germany, Austria and Switzerland requite that you carry tire chains during winter months in addition to having at least M+S rated tires. The presumption is that you would install the chains when conditions warrant. http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/overseas/snow-chains-winter-tyres.html

Snow chains must be fitted on at least two drive wheels. In any
country Snow chains may only be used where there's sufficient snow
covering to avoid any possibility of damage to the road surface. A
fine may be imposed if damage is caused.

In addition to tire chains, boot ice traction "chains" are a good idea in small towns. Small winter snow zone towns that I visited in Saxony, Italy and Austria do not seem to keep their pavements clear and de-iced. Yaktraxs were early on the winter scene with Yaktrax Walkers that featured wire wrapped elastic bands to provide extra traction in snow and ice [ https://www.yaktrax.com/images/products/walker-bottom-right-large.jpg ]. A number of boot winter traction devices have since come on the market with more aggressive spikes to engage ice.
http://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Sports-Outdoors-Ice-Snow-Traction-Cleats/zgbs/sporting-goods/5160160011

I use "ICETrekkers Diamond Grip Traction Cleats"
Rubber / Steel
Sling remains elastic even in subzero temperatures to keep grips secure
Shoe grips designed to provide aggressive traction in winter walking conditions
Made of case-hardened steel alloy and strung on steel aircraft cable
Riveted to tough rubber sling that fits tennis shoes, boots and dress shoes
Self-clearing design prevents snow and ice buildup
https://www.rei.com/media/4a0815aa-bb7a-432e-ae0f-bf99d0381d86

I should add that the less aggressive boot chains (e.g. Yaktrac Walkers) are equivalent to tire cable chains that work in snow but have less bite on ice. The boot chains with spikes(e.g. ICETrekkers) are more equivalent to the tire chains with grip bars welded to the chain cross-links. Just as tire chains damage roadways, boot chains with spikes will damage floors and are actually slippery on hard ceramic tile floors.

liz,

Your profile doesn't indicate where you're from, so my first question would be whether you're used to driving in winter conditions? While roads may be cleared on a regular basis, conditions can change.

Travel by well planned rail or bus trips will be a much easier and probably quicker solution, especially at that time of the year.