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Trip Report - Sicily - late March 2025

I'm using the "old" RS evaluation format from years ago. I've been on an evaluation "strike" ever since RS changed formats as I find snippets of the new evaluations not very helpful and complete parts of the new evaluations only if I have something I really, really want to tell the company. --C of David and C.

1) most impt factors in choosing tour - We like RS b/c there's a lot of opportunity for interaction with locals, no pressure to buy extras, "buddies" are usually like-minded, responsible and considerate and guides and drivers are great.

2) favorite "wow" moment - Monreale, especially good with binoculars

3) hotels/meals/experiences - any especially good/bad

Hotels RS often picks hotels from which it’s easy to get to tour destinations by walking. This means they’re often older buildings close to the “old city.” We’re used to hauling luggage up and down stairs, small rooms and poor lighting on potentially slippery stairs, which are frankly dangerous. That said, I feel that RS really ought to use his leverage to “encourage” hotels he books to at least do something about the lighting on stairs. The edges of steps are often not visible and there are very simple things a hotel could do to make stairs less dangerous.

For this particular trip, many hotels did not provide kleenex (not unusual) or hot water pots (that is IMO, unusual for European hotels these days) - but I was prepared with an immersion heater.

My least favorite hotel was Ambasciatori in Palermo - there were many tripping hazards in (small step up to the bathroom) and out of the room (throw rugs! on hard floor hallways) and the stairs were so poorly lit I used a flashlight to navigate them. It also smelled musty. There was a razor-thin margin between a shower that was freezing and one that was scalding. Everything from closet rods to bathroom hooks was positioned for basketball players - way above my 5’4’’ reach.

My favorite hotel was La Gancia in Trapani - when our guide said it was a converted convent, I expected rooms the size of tiny cells, but the room was huge by European standards and even included a long desk away lit in such a way that I could work without disturbing my sleeping spouse.

Food on RS tours is often very dependent on the guide’s knowledge of local restaurants, e.g., how to use the allotted budget to deliver good restaurants’ specialties, and their interest in local cuisine. This was the first tour (out of ten RS tours) on which on-tour meals were better than off-tour meals. Our guide was from Sicily and believes that food is an important way to get to know a culture; he went out of his way to arrange delicious group meals that reflected the regional cuisine as he also plied us with local treats. Group lunches were especially fantastic. Incredibly, the best gelato we had in Sicily was at a bus rest stop. Our guide had the group practice Italian by ordering cups he used discretionary funds to pay for. We ourselves order lots of gelato when in Italy and know good stuff when we find it - we went back to order an extra cup on our own before our bus took off. Even if I wasn’t crazy about a particular dish or item, our guide was right in saying that you learn a lot by sampling what locals think is good.

We usually do very well finding good off-tour meals by checking Tripadvisor in the language of the country we’re in, but we batted only about 50% this time, probably b/c we kept trying Sicilian pizza, which turns out not to have been our thing. Pasta and stews, when we had them, were more to our liking. We had a fantastic meal at Macalle (has a Michelin recommendation) in Ortygia. The food was excellent and the owner a great showman. At the Palermo marketplace we tried stigghiola (grilled lamb intestines wrapped around green onions and garlic and spritzed with lemon), which was delicious and didn’t taste anything like tripe.

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Experiences In addition to the advertised group experiences (which were all very good - even for two travelers who’ve seen lots of churches and ruins on previous RS tours ), our guide arranged several optional extras - even more than usual for a RS tour. These turned out to be great fun and often involved more interactions with people (as opposed to interactions with architecture) - something we really appreciated.

In addition to Monreale, I especially liked (in no particular order)

  • Salt flats at Saline Culcasi- our guide made a special effort to make sure one of the owners (an engaging young man whose good looks were not missed by the women buddies) gave the tour
  • Villa Romana del Casale - if you have binoculars, it can take much more time to see the spectacular mosaics than the guidebook recommends, so don’t dawdle
  • Puppet show in Ortygia
  • Amphitheater in Taormina - it would have been just another Roman amphitheater, but the local guide provided a lot of interesting information about Roman amphitheaters that was new to me
  • Pasticceria Grammatico Maria lunch and pastry demo - Maria is a treasure!
  • Mt. Etna - loved the way the clouds climb up the mountain - it threatened to rain, but didn’t and the moody weather added to the experience
  • During the Trepani orientation walk our guide took us past the piazza in front of Chiesa del Purgatorio, notable for its Passion statues, where a large crowd was being entertained by a brass band prior to a pre-Easter service. After the orientation walk we went back, attended the prayer service and got an especially good look at the statues because the church was so well lit for the service.
  • (Many buddies really liked the WWII Museum in Catania and the bomb shelter in Ortygia, which was a “test” group experience).

4) pace? any way to make use of your time more efficient? As veterans of 9 previous tours we thought the start times were reasonable, but my trick for handling start times that seem early is to get up at least an hour before breakfast and take your coffee in the room as soon as you get up. Unfortunately this meant sacrificing better quality coffee at breakfast, but earlier coffee works better with bathroom breaks scheduled about two hours after departure (our guide was the first RS guide to specifically spell out the timing of bathroom breaks, but in retrospect, most if not all prior tour bathroom breaks have been timed this way). We were OK with the balance of group (including the optional activities) vs. free time.

Our guide had a pretty good tip for making sure you don’t miss meeting times - set an alarm on your phone for 15 min or so before the meeting time as soon as it’s announced.

Our guide was very good about outlining the day’s schedule the night before and the morning of. I realized on this tour that in general, I would like to know in advance if specific terrain (including lighting) is going to be unusually difficult.

5) could front ofc have done anything better? All good.

6) did our advertising mislead u in any way? All good.

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7-10) rate ur guide/local guide/driver (for guides: accessible, fair, engaged; clear orientation at ea stop; leadership; speaking and teaching; knowledge of history and art; grasp of contemporary issues)
We had an exceptional guide (and that’s saying a lot b/c all of our RS guides have been great) - organized, personable, great sense of humor, flexible, knowledgeable, passionate about teaching his native culture through different modalities (including great food choices and recommendations). A GI virus broke out among our group (something was going around one of the towns we visited) and our guide was able to assist affected buddies through the process of taking trains to the next hotels where they could rest before rejoining the tour.

I think most RS buddies underestimate what the drivers do for them. In addition to the obvious - getting us safely around difficult roads from one place to the next and helping with luggage - they make sure the buses are clean (inside and out - so you can take pictures from the windows) and warm when you board. Our driver lived near one of our stops and he went home overnight to harvest a box of fresh oranges from his tree for us.

Local guides were all very good to excellent. I especially appreciated the relatively relaxed pace in Ortygia and the extensive information provided in Taormina.

11) more comments? would u recommend tour to others? Absolutely recommend. Even though the advertising looks as if you’ll be taken on another “Italian” tour, Sicilian history and culture is different from that of mainland Italy in so many ways. The Sicilian guides would like to see a “RS Sicily part II” - and I would go if one were offered.

Read the RS guidebook chapter on Sicilian history before you go. D always reads extensively about places we’re going to before we go. I get by with bare-bones pre-tour research, but Sicilian history is complicated enough so that it really helps to have read that guidebook chapter - which you can easily do on the plane to Europe.

Health (from standpoint of two retired health care professionals (HCPs)), safety, weather
COVID and respiratory illnesses - almost no one in Europe wears masks. Like all other big tour companies, RS no longer requires COVID vaccines, which is obviously not in keeping with CDC recommendations, especially for older folks or those with risk factors. To best protect yourself, you should visit the CDC website to see what CDC currently considers “up to date” COVID vaccination status. Since COVID, we wear N95s at all times in closed spaces (that includes the bus and can include restaurants while waiting to be served). On eight RS tours prior to masking we came home with nasty colds we got on the bus - on the last two tours we didn’t catch any respiratory illness from the bus.

Use hand sanitizer liberally after touching hi-touch surfaces (that includes money, handrails, menus, public transit - including the bus). D was one of the buddies who got the GI virus; if I got it, I got at most a mild case - the main difference between the two of us was that he handled money more than I do.

Be sure you know how to get hold of your health-care delivery system at/on unusual hours/days and are packing enough medication to deal with medical conditions and common travel-related illnesses that could flare up, b/c foreign pharmacies and HCPs aren’t necessarily going to be easily available on tour.

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We were unusually unlucky with the weather on a couple of days - encountered a lot of rain walking to the bus with luggage as we left for Agrigento and a drenching hailstorm at the Valley of Temples (where there was no real shelter). Everyone was soaked and many buddies spent hours using hair dryers to dry wet clothing and possessions. Ignore what Rick says on TV about buying your umbrella and replacement dry footwear on tour (after hours in remote locations) and come prepared - that includes backups of mission-critical items.

I may be getting older - and we had already spent a fairly grueling week in Rome and Florence during which we did not pace ourselves properly - but this is the first tour described as “strenuous” that I thought really was strenuous at times. Somehow the flights of stairs (often tall, uneven with a downsloping pitch when going downhill) seemed more extensive than on past tours. Pounding uneven pavement for hours at a time is hard on the feet and ankles. It also rained - and in Sicily rain and scirocco winds, which carry fine sand in from Africa go together, which means that the uneven hilly pavement is slippery with dust and water. I was the only one using a walking stick, but I’d say a walking stick is mandatory for anyone with balance, orthopedic or vision issues.

Also mandatory if you have even modest vision issues (including difficulty perceiving contrast and depth or being slow to accommodate from light to dark - all common in older people) is a good small flashlight, because hotel and group activity stairs can be poorly lit.

We always bring binoculars that also do close focus on RS tours - good for seeing details of cathedral windows and mosaics but also for seeing fine details of small pieces in museums

We did laundry our first night in Ortygia at American LaundryXpress, which was a 24/6 or 7 place a few minutes walk from our hotel. The good news is that it was clean, all the machines worked, we didn’t have to wait as long for laundry as did our buddies who had the hotel do theirs, and it was next door to a terrific restaurant (Macalle, see above). The bad news was that the “change” machine did not provide change, but tokens that were good only in the laundromat (and we didn’t realize this until after we’d given up our real euros) - definitely get change before going there.

Three navigating tips

  • Save the location of your hotel on Google Maps (and the hard copy of your hotel list in case you need to ask for directions)
  • Google Maps is great at helping get around on public transportation, but it estimates pedestrian walking time as if you're walking on flat ground
  • Learn how to ask "where are we/where is --- on this map" (ask your guide) - after "where's the restroom," that's possibly the most trip-saving question to know ;)

Communicating
If you know the polite phrases (hello, goodbye, thank you, excuse me), the words for “how much,” “what is this,” “where is,” “I’m looking for,” and numbers from one to 100, you can do an amazing amount of communication in foreign countries. In places like Sicily, where people are very friendly, they seem to appreciate your trying. And of course nowadays there’s Google Lens and Google Translate (download relevant languages for offline use). In Palermo we ditched looking at more historic buildings in favor of going to hardware and plumbing stores looking for a replacement part for an Italian-made item I needed at home. We didn’t find the part but it was fascinating going into parts of Palermo not meant for tourists and I did OK with a couple words of tourist Italian and Google Translate.

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I too loved the Sicily tour and the excellent sights and experiences planned. Thanks for reminding me what a great tour this was and we didn’t even have your wonderful tour guide but did have the fabulous Nina Bernardo.

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Thank you so much, David & C, for posting your trip report of the Sicily tour! You’ve shared a lot of helpful information!

Sad to see your Palermo hotel wasn’t good. The only part of Sicily I have seen so far was five wonderful days in Palermo (& day trip to Cefalu) last year. I stayed at the Delle Vittorie Luxury Rooms & Suites - sounds stuffy (LOL) but it’s just a nice, clean hotel in a fantastic location with a decent price & excellent breakfast. Too bad you weren’t staying there. I met some people at breakfast who were joining the RS Sicily tour that evening.

I laughed at your gelato comment! I love excellent gelato and just never found one in Palermo that looked right. I had to switch over to fresh cannoli, instead! What a sacrifice! ; )

A hint: download a credit card on ApplePay, and you won’t need to handle currency as much.

Your advice about an umbrella is appreciated. I pack very light, weighing everything on a kitchen scale, so I wouldn’t have packed one. It’s helpful to know the availability of items during a tour I am considering - thanks!

I agree about the use of the local language. I had studied Italian an hour a day for a year to prepare to travel independently in the Puglia region & Palermo. It’s very kind to use as much Italian as possible. I stopped into a tiny shop in Palermo to buy a small homemade ceramic dish and some hand-printed tea towels. When I asked the owner a question in Italian, she seemed surprised & pleased.

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Thank you so much for your detailed and candid trip report. You have inspired me to visit Sicily!

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@Jean - LOL, prior to our previous tour of Italy (RS Village Italy) years ago, I had studied enough Italian to have a short conversation with a taxi driver, but life happens and I didn't have time to review before this trip. This time when I was able to put together a coherent question in Italian, I often got a rapid-fire Italian answer and the bemused questionee would have to repeat the answer in (very good) English. (One of the local guides mentioned that this would happen.) Our tour guide said that the friendly Sicilian people would appreciate any effort to communicate with them with a few Italian words. And if you really want to win over Sicilians, try a few pleasantries in Sicilian.

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I enjoyed this very much even though I didn't take the Sicily tour but rather visited on my own. I was struck by how much more efficient a tour is than independent travel. We didn't see as much as you even with a longer visit.

We also hit scirocco storms and we were there in May. We had rain coats but no umbrellas but I think the wind would have been too much any way. We all had brought hiking shoes and found them good for uneven wet pavement as well as actual hiking.

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David & C, your comment about locals replying in Italian at a rapid rate brought back a funny memory I had forgotten. On that trip last year, I routed through Rome after the Puglia region & Palermo stays, so I was feeling pretty comfortable with the very basics. I checked into the Rome hotel, and she asked how many nights, and I responded in Italian. She said, “Oh!” and proceeded to give me a lot of instructions in very fast Italian without pausing! In my mind, I laughed to myself and thought, “Here’s my final exam. How am I doing?” LOL! I was catching words here & there, hoping I didn’t miss anything vital. I did check that they didn’t lock their heavy door, so I could get back inside after a late dinner.

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Thank you for this excellent trip report, and very timely as we embark on our RS Tour of Sicily in 4 1/2 weeks! I wonder, since you speak so highly of your RS Guide and mention that he is from Sicily, if it might be Alfio? He was our guide in 2023 for Heart of Italy and was an absolute gem. And never missed an opportunity, when describing anything as being very good, or "the best" to always add "except for Sicily. In Sicily, it is even better."