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Scotland must sees?

I have a trip planned to Ireland 9/28-10/9 and want to travel over to Scotland. I'm intrigued by Iona and would like to venture there plus a few other highlights for this first trip to Scotland. Don't have 10 days and can't mesh with current RS tour (plus has a wait list) but am interested in those who may have traveled there before as to what are MUST sees.

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How many days would you have, and how would you be travelling to, and within Scotland?