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Paris HOF report

Part One
Day 0, Paris – Took a taxi (55 Euro) from CDG to Hotel Lenox Montparnasse. Too early to check in so we dropped our bags and walked to nearby Café Rotonde for breakfast and our first espresso. We went up Montparnasse Tower which had a wonderful view of the entire city. I wouldn’t do it again though. Parisians have named it the “Awful Tower” and it really is a bit of an eyesore. After that, we walked our feet off to the tune of 12,000 steps. My friends were interested in French cosmetics, so we walked to City Pharmacie which seems to be cosmetics central in Paris; it was an absolute mob scene but our friends got "great stuff at great prices". This walk took us past St. Sulpice and Luxembourg Garden and took the edge off our jet lag, which to be honest wasn’t bad at all…until we traveled home to the States, but I digress…

Day 1, Paris – Our hotel’s breakfast was quite good and we met a couple of other RS tour members who had arrived early. Then the 4 of us went to a tabac, bought a carnet of Metro tickets and went on a whirlwind tour. We went to Sacre Coeur, the Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel Tower, and just walked and walked. The Metro is surprisingly easy and Paris is also a very walkable city. At 5:00 we met our guide and other tour members at the hotel for an orientation. First impression was that our guide is super organized and has a terrific sense of humor which all of us seemed to appreciate. She passed out museum passes, Metro tickets, and her contact info and gave a general overview of how our days would be organized. Then we went to an absolutely lovely restaurant for what turned out to be a spectacular welcome dinner. Hit the pillow before 10PM and I promise you I had no problem falling asleep.

Day 2, Paris – We met our guide at 8:15 am for an overview of the Metro. We toured Ile de la Cite, Ile St. Louis, Sainte- Chapelle, the Latin quarter, Notre Dame (inside on our own; the line was long but moves quickly so don’t be deterred), took the RER to The Orsay. Wish we had more time, but we booked a boat tour on our own tonight (Canauxrama, we wanted to venture further afield), so we walked through the Tuileries Garden. By the time we made it back to our hotel, it was almost midnight, but seeing the Eiffel Tower sparkle on the hour from the water was worth it. Walked 4 miles today.

Day 3, Paris – Sunday today. We met a local guide for a stroll through Les Halles where our guides set up a cheese tasting. Also saw St. Eustache church. We said goodbye to our local guide after sharing macarons outside the Louvre (delicious!) The Louvre was crowded and we wished we had more time, but one could spend a week there and it wouldn’t be enough. So, after seeing the highlights (Mona Lisa, Wings of Victory, Venus de Milo) we had lunch at a café in the Tuileries before heading to L’Orangerie (where we had to “coat check” our backpacks). I was surprised at the number of paintings other than Monet’s water lilies. I really loved this museum! Renoir, Picasso, Matisse, Cezanne… amazing! We headed to Bon Marche looking for some warmer clothes because the weather had turned surprisingly cold, but forget it; this is a high end store. LOUVRE tip: don’t forget to look at the ceilings in each room!

Day 4, Guedelon and Bourges – Goodbye Paris, we met Rudi our bus driver and headed to Guedelon. I would have enjoyed Guedelon more, but I was unprepared for 40 degree weather and shivered through the tour and our group lunch. I was happy to get back on the bus and head to Bourges. We had a fantastic group dinner after a walk around this pretty little town, the highlight tonight being St. Etienne. The second highlight was knowing I was free until 10:30 the next morning so I could find that elusive sweater. Today we walked 3 ½ miles.

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Part 2
Day 5, The Loire and Chambord – Happy to say I found a lightweight puffer jacket that morning at a cute boutique Promod, so I was a happy camper as this was sure to make the weather warm up (it did warm up)! We went for a wine and cheese tasting and despite vowing to not buy wine on this trip, I did in fact buy 2 bottles. This was some darn good wine, and did he say 7 Euro? Yes, yes he did. Oh, I forgot to mention our lovely hotel in Bourges offers a laundry service. 15 Euro for all you can fit in a little laundry basket. I didn’t use the service because thus far our hotels have had a heated towel rack and I’ve done my own laundry. Some folks did have the laundry done…just don’t have them do anything that can’t be dried, there was talk of clothes shrinking! 2 1/2 miles today

Day 6, Chenonceau and Amboise – Today we toured Chenonceau, and that afternoon our guide organized a tour of Chateau du Clos Luce, the final home of Leonardo de Vinci. The guys in particular seemed to love this tour, but that’s not to say the women didn’t enjoy it because we did. We had lunch of quiche and hot chocolate on our own at Bigot and then bought some caramels next door…omg, if you like caramel this is the place for you! Dinner on our own and then we have to pack a day bag for Mt. St. Michel. 4 ½ miles today

Day 7, Brittany and Mont St. Michel – Wow, nothing prepares you for your first glimpse of Mt. St. Michel! It’s more crowded than I expected, but people were leaving as we headed in…gotta love RS planning. There is a lot of walking on an incline, and a lot of walking in general. The hotel rooms are in several different places. Mine happened to be at our first stop, on the 5th floor, and you get there by walking up a very narrow winding staircase. The view makes it worthwhile, it’s pretty awesome! My traveling companions were farther up the Mt and they had a completely different room and view, equally as awesome. Thank god we left our bigger bags on the bus. There is an early morning service which I didn’t go to but heard it was worth the climb. I was feeling the fatigue and didn’t want to make that walk twice. My biggest tip for Mt. St. Michel is don’t miss the small church of St. Peter near the cemetery, it’s really beautiful…especially the statute of Joan of Arc just outside the entrance and St Michael inside.

Day 8-9 – Bayeux tapestry and on to Arromanches. We were here 2 nights. This was my least favorite hotel room but most favorite hotel location…on a beach. I wish I could send a picture of the view from my room…WOW! I didn’t journal much here, the tour of DDay Beaches was somber and put me in a funky reflective mood. How is that we Americans know so little about this piece of history? I mean, I’m not uneducated, but I heard things from our guide that had me in a hurry to get home and learn all I can. I watched Saving Private Ryan on the flight home…seeing the scene in the cemetery that I’d just visited had me in tears again. Here’s a heartfelt thank you to any veterans reading this. I take for granted the sacrifices made and am ashamed by that. So, thank you a million times over. It was raining buckets and super windy during the tour and the rest of our time in Normandy which seemed fitting as that’s what our troops faced. Dinner in the hotel for everyone; no way could we venture out which was too bad because it was beautiful in Arromanches.

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The End
Day 10, Giverny and back to Paris – We strolled through Monet’s Garden as a light rain fell and I felt like Monet was probably gazing at us through his kitchen window. Everywhere you look is beautiful; colorful even in early October. I would love to go back when there are more flowers in bloom, it must be breathtaking. The number of paintings hanging in his home was a nice surprise. We had time for a leisurely lunch and then back to Paris where we checked in near the Sorbonne. Our farewell dinner at Bouillon Racine was delicious, and we were our typically loud and happy selves as we said our goodbyes. How are the French so quiet when there’s so much around you to discuss?? We were a loud group, but I make no apologies. We loved France. As our guide would say…Oh la la!!

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6291 posts

JKL, Thank you, thank you, thank you. I can't wait to do this tour next May.

Posted by
13934 posts

OH, what a terrific Trip Report! It sounds like you had a really fun time and walked your feet off. Now all winter (or I suppose transition seasons) when you bring out that new puffy jacket you'll remember where you bought it, how you were cold in Guedelon, what a good time you had. Totally worth it!

I love your recounting of everything you did! This was one of my favorite tours, I think because there is such a variety of sights. The visual you painted of Monsieur Monet looking out of his kitchen window is priceless.

I also love that you stayed in Arromanches. Wow, I would have loved that. We stayed in Bayeux but I went to Arromanches on a different tour and thought the Mulberry Harbor there was so very interesting.

Another movie to look for is The Longest Day - the old Black and White version with every major star of the era making at least a cameo appearance. My favorite scene is the German Major Pluskatt looking out the bunker (which was filmed right by Arromanches in Longues-sur-Mer) and seeing the entire Allied force coming at him. Supposedly Richard Burton and Roddy McDowell were in Rome doing Cleopatra and were bored because they weren't filming so begged for parts, flew themselves to France and worked for free for their day's filming.

Anyway.....thanks so much for taking the time to write this up and post. I know it will help others who are looking at this tour as well as being entertaining to the rest of us who have already taken it!

Is there anything you would have done differently? (besides packing some warmer clothes!)

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552 posts

Loved your trip report; thanks for sharing. For various reasons, I'm traveling vicariously these days.

Posted by
3226 posts

Loved your report! Thanks for sharing!
Oh maybe I missed this, but since you mentioned weather several times, when was this?

Posted by
6502 posts

I too enjoyed this. Have been to most of the places you describe, though some many years ago. We sort of discovered Bourges by accident as a convenient overnight on the way to the Dordogne. I really appreciated the cathedral and stained glass there.

You and fellow tourers sure have a lot of energy! Have a good rest, and try another!

Posted by
1019 posts

Just - thank you for the great trip report. I can’t wait til my trip. Sham on you. Lol! We are going in May with Jane and DH. Arriving three days before start of the tour. I have been to Paris twice but I did not get to see enough. So I have lots on my wish list. I have been to monets garden , it will be nice to see it again.

Yes Pam . We got the longest day movie a few months ago. Loved it!

Kim

Posted by
94 posts

Thanks for the lovely report. We did this tour 2 years ago, and it brought back many fond memories. That tour was our first trip to France and we loved it so much we did Eastern France this spring.

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108 posts

Thx for the kind feedback! What would I do differently? To be honest, not a great deal. As mentioned I’d skip Montparnasse tower. I wouldn’t have tried so hard to be a minimalist packer. I had room for a few additional clothes and less laundry would have been nice, but that’s minor. My biggest regret was not having the flexibility to stay a couple of additional days upon returning to Paris at the end of the tour. I’d have spent a little time just strolling through the beautiful gardens, revisited a museum or two, and nursed an espresso for hours just people watching. Late September /early October was fabulous despite the few unexpected cold days and a few shops in the villages that already closed for the season. Honestly, no regrets.
I’m curious to hear, how was the Eastern France tour?

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3245 posts

This is one of my favorite trip reports ever. I just can't see myself ever taking an escorted bus tour, but you make it sound mighty appealing!

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6291 posts

Trayla, a number of us said the same thing - for years. No bus tours, no need... Now we're hooked. We still love traveling on our own, but it's a treat to have someone else handle at least some of the details. And we're always amazed at how much we do and learn that we wouldn't have thought of on our own. A mix of guided tours and plenty of free time before and/or after the tours; that's been our strategy for the last 10 years.

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2 posts

My husband and I have been trying to decide which RS tour to take next year and it will be our first time to Europe.
I thank you for doing such a great job on your report. The tour has come to life for me through your experience.
My mind is made up this is the tour for us. Thank you again and it sounds like you had a wonderful time.

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94 posts

JKL, Your inquiry about the Eastern France tour… We enjoyed this tour as much as the HOF. We spent a few days in Paris before taking the train to Reims where the tour began. I thought this tour was more relaxed than the HOF, with less emphasis on the history and more on the culture, wine, champagne, mountains, country side, and markets. We especially loved Chamonix and Mont Blanc, Colmar, Annecy, and Vaison la Romaine. Several wine tastings and visits to vineyards, picnic at a chateau (wine and market goodies), champagne tour and tasting in Reims, boat ride in Annecy on the lake.

Just a lovely trip for us. When we ended the tour in Aix-en-Provence, we rented a car and spent 4 additional nights in Provence (just east of Avignon at a family run bed/breakfast/hotel). We explored Provence from there in all directions. I recommend a few extra days in the south of France if you can do it. There is a lot to see and do and it is easy driving with a GPS on your phone or in the car. We didn’t speed and had no problems with tickets or anything. We took the train from Avignon back to Paris CDG airport where we flew home.

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108 posts

Thank you Ellen! We are having a difficult time choosing our next tour, but who can complain about such a problem, right?
Cbabin, this was my first RS tour and I think it was a perfect combination of city and country. Maybe we were spoiled because our guide Rebecca was so wonderful, but I enjoyed every single day. Be prepared for being on the go and you I'm sure you will enjoy it as much as we did. Feel free to PM with any specific questions you might have, I know how many I had because it was our first tour.

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2 posts

Thank you , and as the time for our trip nears I am sure I will have questions for you.
I am already so excited and now I do not want to wait until Sept 2019 to go.....
We are in training for all the walking! LOL

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10221 posts

Thanks you so much for this trip report. It was fun seeing some of the places I've been through your eyes. As for Giverny in October, my first time was mid-October as well and I thought if it was that beautiful it must be spectacular in the spring or summer. I was in Paris for almost 2 weeks this June was one of my must see things was Giverny. The gardens were as lovely as I expected them to be. The problem, for me, was that it was so crowded. It was a wonderful day, but I think I preferred October.

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108 posts

cbabin, good plan to start a walking program! We did and was I ever glad. Be sure to include a lot of stair climbing as your tour date approaches.
I have been mulling over returning to Giverny at some future date, in the summer, but after envisioning that crowd of people I think maybe I’ll just hold onto the memory I have and move on...to where is the question!

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49 posts

Wonderful trip report. We did this tour 4 years ago and loved it. We went in mid September and had a cold spell so I bought gloves at a little boutique in Bourges. I think of France every time I wear them.

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232 posts

Is the tour of Louvre guided or are you on your own with the museum pass?

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108 posts

You are on your own at the Louvre and it’s really overwhelming. We knew in advance what we wanted to see, so we did that and then spent a couple of hours just seeing what we could. We loved it, the ceilings alone are worth the visit, but to be honest it wasn’t my favorite museum in Paris. I loved
L’Orangerie because it was much more intimate and had a wonderful collection of several impressionists, not just Monet.

Posted by
786 posts

Very nice report! Reading it, I wondered if Rebecca was your guide, which you confirmed in a later comment. We had her on our first RS tour, Best of Paris in 2015. We still talk about Rebecca and how she made this tour so wonderful for us. She's incredibly knowledgeable, organized, responsive and just plain fun. On our family room wall is an 8x10 of my wife, son and I with Rebecca on the streets of Paris, framed with our tour patch. I treasure the memories she helped us make..

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2252 posts

Excellent tour report, JKL and I am happy you enjoyed your tour so much. I have visited most of those places and personally loved Arromanches. We, too, had a wonderful view of the beach from our hotel (we stayed there 4 days) but that view came with all the history we had learned and experienced "in person" in Normandy and truthfully, it was a very moving experience just being there and looking out at that beautiful beach......and imagining...... I think I must get to Bourges! You have made it come alive! Whatever you choose next will be equally as awesome, I am sure as your enthusiasm for travel shines through your words! Thanks for posting.

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467 posts

Thanks for posting. I wish more folks would post TR after their tours. Your trip sounds lovely.

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6291 posts

stoutfella, almost all the RS guides are that good. We've taken 12 tours, with 10 different guides, and all but one or two were truly wonderful.

Posted by
21 posts

Very interesting and informative report! We just booked this tour for Sept 2019 and can’t wait. We, too, are from Illinois (western suburbs of Chicago). Is the tour really strict on bag size, or is it really up to each traveler how much they want to schlepp up difficult 5-story staircases? It sounds like there’s plenty of room for comfortable and not crowded seating on the bus — true? Is Versailles not on the tour? Did you go to Ste Mere Eglise? How early is reveille most mornings to gather to start the day’s touring? Any stop along the way at a winery? Thanks again for your wonderful report!!

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108 posts

Mike, I hope you love this tour as much as we did! I’ll do my best to answer your questions.
As far as bags are concerned, no one acts like the bag police, but from what I saw all but 2 of the 27 of us stuck to the bag policy. Bear in mind that there’s limited space for bags under the bus, and often you’re not dropped off right at the hotel so it’s more than negotiating stairs. I’d really suggest sticking with his bag policy.
As for the bus, there’s plenty of room and the seats are very comfy. Versailles is not on the tour, but if you have an extra day you can get there pretty easily on your own. Some of our fellow travelers did just that and had a great time but were pretty tired afterward. There is a stop at a winery/chateau and the wine was fantastic!
Our time in Normandy was one of the highlights for me, especially the American cemetery tour and Utah and Omaha beaches. We did not spend time specifically in St. Mere Eglise. As for mornings, breakfast typically was available at 7am and we headed to the bus around 8. There’s no fudging on the agreed upon times so make sure to be punctual!
If you have any other questions, feel free to send a PM! Have a wonderful time!

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8375 posts

Mike, I think whether you go to St. Mare Eglise may be a function of the the local guide. I know our Paris and Heart of France Tour certainly went there last June and was surprised to read the OP’s tour did not. There are also some slight differences in the tour depending which day of the week you start the tour. Some have the first hotel in Montmarte and some do not. One version of the tour hits more market days than the other, but these are small differences.