Please sign in to post.

Heart of Ireland 8 Day Trip Report

April, 2018 - Husband (David) and I did two Rick Steves back to back Tours. Our first on was the Heart of Ireland 8 days then we hopped over to do the Best of Scotland 10 days. I have already done the Scotland report. Of the two tours, I preferred the Best of Scotland. You can read that later if you wish. Both of us are now retired since 2015 and he is now my travel partner now (my sister was before he retired). He had no time to go to Europe with me (his vacation consisted of playing golf). These tours were my 4th and 5th and his 3rd and 4th trip.
My first was 14 day Best of Ireland. I enjoyed that trip so much, I told him I wanted to go back to Ireland. Took the 8 day tour because it was easier on the budge combined with the Scotland tour. I enjoyed this tour, but if you have an interest in Ireland, the 14 day tour is better option, in my opinion.

Our guide was excellent and did a wonderful job with providing us the history of Ireland and relevant info. I was looking over my past tour brochures and I think this trip as been tweaked several times (maybe three?). This years changed. It includes 1 night stay in Ennis; 2 nights stay in Dingle, 1 night stay in Kilkenny, and 3 night stay in Dublin.

Group - 27 members. We had a several groups traveling together. Family of 4 adults, Family of 6 adults, 5 friends who travel together, two couples who were friends, 2 single ladies who traveled together (friends) , 3 separate couples (this included us) who were not traveling with anyone else. Lots were first time Rick Steves travelers. I had an awesome buddy (for our buddy check). Everyone seem cordial and I did not notice any grumpiness, but the group dynamics kept from having more socializing with all group members.

HOTELS: Ennis - Old Ground Hotel - This hotel and staff was wonderful. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here.

Dingle - Milltown House - We enjoyed this hotel also. Half of the group was split into two places.

Kilkenny - Kilford Arms Hotel - It was a good location, seems centrally located for all the local sites. Hotel was Ok but nothing special.

Dublin - Cassidy's hotel - I did not like this hotel. It was not centrally located with all our sites. Long way to walk to places we were going with the tour and on our own. Rooms were subpar compared to other hotels I have been on with RS tours.

FOOD: All our group dinners were excellent and lovely presentation.

We arrived one day prior to the start of our tour and stayed one extra day in Dublin.

Our first day on arrival, we just walked around to get our bearings in Ennis and grab lunch. It was an easy flight into Shannon and to catch the #51 bus to Ennis and short walk to the hotel. That evening we went to the Glor to hear El Divas. These are four London Trained friends in music/singing. Two of them are from Ennis. It was a packed crowd. We enjoyed this.

On the last day in Dublin, we went to Kilmainham Gaol, National Archaelogy and History museum and the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl.

I am going to post this now, then comment on the sites. I won't go into each days activities. I will just make comments of the sites that we saw.

Posted by
1019 posts

Local guides - were good and gave us lot of information about their city.

Ennis - we had our walking tour of Ennis, then on to the Ennis Friary, Our first group dinner at the Cloister. The owner Dermitt, first gave us whiskey tasting session before our dinner at his restaurant. Food was exceptional, probably my favorite. This location was new to me, so I enjoyed being here.

Cliffs of Moher - was here in 2014 on previous tour. We got here at opening time, so no crowds set in. It was extremely winding and cold, but still beautiful. We had about 1 1/2 hours here. Last time for me, it was rainy so the weather was a wee better this time.

Convenience stop at the village of Adare, here about 1 1/2 hour. Had lunch and David and I walked around, went to the Trinitarian Monastery next to the TI centre.

Stopped in Annascaul before arriving in Dingle. Stopped at the South Pole Inn. The current owner gave a short talk about Tom Crean, Antarctic Explorer. Some of us had a pint of beer.

Headed into Dingle. It was raining quite hard and windy and white caps coming in the Dingle bay. Glad they provided us a group dinner here tonight. We stayed rest of the day at Milltown House. Had drinks in his bar and then dinner. Dinner was awesome, buffet set up. That night we had two local musicians come and sing for us. Dingle is the place to be for best Irish music and crafts. We both loved the West coast area of Ireland.

Our next day - we visited a crystal cutting demo at Dingle Crystal with Sean Daly. Then we picked up on our bus Tim Collins (our local guide for the day). Drove along Sea Head drive. Just beautiful scenery. Best to sit on the left side of the bus!!
Arrived at the Great Blasket Centre. They show a film and has a great museum there
Also had lunch here.

Our last stop was the Gallarus Oratory. Stone building about 1300 years old. Amazing how it was built of dry rubble masonry

Headed back to Dingle. Weather had subsided enough to have our Dingle harbor cruise (if you wanted to go), if not you were free for a few hours till we met up again that evening. Fungi did come out to see us, but in the distance. Due to the choppy waters, we did not go out to far to try to reach Fungi.

Afterwards, David and I walked around Dingle, then ate dinner with my buddy and her travel mate at Anchor Down. After dinner the group had reservations for a music session at the Dingle Music Shop. Our musicians were Donogin Hennessy and Seamus Begley.

Posted by
1019 posts

Headed off to Rock of Cashel - local tour with the OPW guide. Had lunch at Cashel. Weather was a wee windy and cold compared to my last visit in 2014. Here about 3 hours or so for both tour/lunch.
,
Arrive in Kilkenny, checked into hotel, then a walking tour of Kilkenny with local guide. She did not seem to be well-seasoned as other guides, but still informative. Had group dinner at Rive Gauche. Another good meal for me. Had Wild boar croquette.
Went to a pub with two other couples for pint of beer and listen to some music. Then back to hotel.

We will be off to Dublin tomorrow, but first stopping at Kilkenny Castle first.

Going to end for tonight. I will try to add more details tomorrow.

Posted by
2186 posts

Loving re-living our 8-day tour through your report. I am looking forward to reading the rest, but so far agree with everything you've said. If we had to do it again, we would have chosen the 14 day tour. And, we had several large family groups that really didn't mingle much, although our guide reminded them to several times. Our time in Dingle was really special, so I'm a bit sad to see that cut short. We got a great whiskey tasting as well as a concert at the little church in town. The Cassidy Hotel remains one of our least favorite - front desk staff was great, but that was it. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to do this.

Posted by
1019 posts

Morning tour of Kilkenny Castle. It was a great decent tour. They had local OPW guides in each room that gave informative info about that particular room we were in. Pretty good history. Our tour guide, Lynn, gave us a good tip to pick up a sack/picnic lunch for our next stop to save time.

There was a street market by the castle, so we picked up a delicious sandwich and split a brownie for our lunch at Glendalough.

Glendalough.... It was so beautiful here and paths to hike. It is an early medieval monastic settlement founded by St Kevin. Good informative film and museum. Our OPW guide was excellent. We found a shady spot and bought sodas for our little picnic. That was a good plan! Walked around and then went on our tour and had a little more time before we headed off.
This was an outstanding place!

Headed to Dublin next...checked into Cassidys hotel (subpar hotel, did not like it nor the location) Rooms seemed just too run down. We had a short walking tour with Lynn, pointing out things to do on our own and places to eat. Then she set us free.
We ate at a pub, bought chocolate for our kids, and found another pub and dropped in to hear some music. Got back to hotel and found tourmates at the bar and had a glass of wine and visited with them.

Next day was our walking tour in Dublin with Joe (he is from Dublin and does Ireland tours, but he was our local guide that morning.. Book of kells, around Dublin and ended at the castle. we were released by lunch time. David and I walked to EPIC, the Irish Emigration Museum. Had lunch there. You get a discount if you tell them you are with RIck Steves. We enjoyed this museum.
Walked by the Famine memorial on the river Liffey. Met up with other couples on the tour to eat dinner at the Rustic Stone

Our last day was a on the bus to Newgrange (Paschal our driver and another RS tour guide). Newgrange is a passage tomb, pretty interesting place and another awesome OWP guide. Had time for lunch here. Put our name in for the lottery to come back for the winter solstice.

our last stop is the Glasnevin cemetery. Few of the men buried here from the Irish Revolutionary.

Back to Dublin for our farewell dinner.

We stayed another day as listed above.

All in all, I liked the tour due to the food and great sites that we visited, half hotels were lower in standards. Weather was iffy at times. But it was not one of my favorites, I just can't pin point why tho. Maybe one thought, that the Scotland tour was just so over the top awesome. And comparing this one to that made it a little less enjoyable. Don't know. Our guide was excellent, I enjoyed Lynn and she was engaging, helpful and knowledgeable.

Still recommend the 14day tour over this one.

Posted by
2252 posts

Thanks for posting your report, Kim. Must display my ignorance here, though...what is an OPW guide?

Posted by
740 posts

OPW - Office of Public Works. (Had to google it)

Posted by
2252 posts

Thanks, Eric. Didn't think to do that but will in the future!

Posted by
6291 posts

Andi, you beat me to it. Thanks for the report, Kim.

Posted by
1 posts

Please add a list of the sites on the Dublin walking tour. We are trying to plan our afternoon activities, so would like to know the morning tour stops. Thanks.

Posted by
22 posts

Hello Kim

Thanks for this detailed review. We are on this tour in early October. I may have made a mistake by ordering theatre tickets at the Gate Theater for Hamlet with Ruth Negga. It is on the last full day of the tour, a 1:30 afternoon performance. I was assuming we would come back to Dublin after Glendalough and before the Glassvin cemetery stop so we'd just skip that activity. Is it correct that you didn't come back to Dublin and the hotel until after that? We want to go to Glendalough so I may have to let the tix go. It is the last day of this short run, part of the Dublin Theatre Festival.

Also, good to know about Cassidy's. We have reservations at the Brooks Hotel for our extended stay in Dublin and will probably move to that hotel for sure.

Susanne