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Budapest - thermal baths

We've just returned from a multiple-city central/eastern European trip, and thoroughly enjoyed traveling to various sights relying on the excellent Rick Steves guidebooks for each city. One city was Budapest, and we thought a word of caution was warranted as to the city's famed thermal baths.

The baths are touted in the Budapest guidebook as "the city's top attraction" (Fifth Ed., at 85). Having partaken of the Szechenyi baths in the northeastern part of the city a couple of weeks ago, we thought we would add to the cautionary notes included in the Steeves book, which warns germophobes of the unusual, shared-experience feature of the baths. At Szechenyi, the baths consist of a series of interior pools, of varying temperatures and mineral content, and they emit a strong sulphur-like smell. The outdoor baths are three large swimming pools, also of varying temperature and mineral content. However, at the height of the travel season, such as during our visit in August 2017, the facilities are packed with bathers, both locals and tourists. They are noisy and crowded, like an over-attended suburban swimming pool or beach. The sheer number of people and the resulting cacophony made the visit anything but relaxing. So, you might think twice about going, at least to this particular thermal bath, during the touristy summer months.

Posted by
2141 posts

Thanks as I have been there but didn't go in. I am a germophobe. Having worked in communicable diseases, I know what one can get from all body's of water. I pass!

Posted by
894 posts

Upon our arrival in Budapest, our first priority after hotel check-in was to colonize the Szechenyi baths. Rick's emphatic endorsement was partially responsible, coupled with a desire to "soak with the locals".
However, we soon learned a different opinion from our new found Budapest friend at the airport baggage claim, sustained by the Pest side couple we encountered near Parliament and confirmed by our hotel's concierge......."Gellert is where you want to go".
Rick may be the modern patron saint of travel, but his likes and dislikes may not always line up with your views, and this topic may be among them. Having never "soaked with the locals" at Szechenyi, I cannot comment on the conditions, there....and Gellert is not exactly Club Med, either.....but we didn't feel slimy after Gellert.....in fact, we felt the burden of a day and a half jet lag from PDX peel away in 103 degree bliss.
There weren't many Hungarians, there, and I missed that. A counter argument to Gellert would begin with that reality....why go to a Hungarian bath without Hungarians?

James E. (the guru of Budapest) may be your resource on this one, and all things Budapest. If he doesn't reply to your post, shoot him a personal email. That guy is a guru, too.

Posted by
1878 posts

My wife and I visited the Gellert Baths twice, in 2011 and 2014. The first time was in the evening parts of it were pretty grungy, especially the locker room. In 2014 we went before noon on a weekday and it was much better--very nice in fact. Based upon my limited sample size, I think time of day matters a lot. It did not hurt that the second time, the outdoor pool was open, and it was really great. Both times were in May and we just got lucky the second time. The time who we thought about visiting Szenchyi, it was a holiday weekend and a total mob scene so we passed (this was on our 2011 trip). I did not feel like Gellert was populated only by foreign tourists felt like plenty of locals there to me.

Posted by
503 posts

I, along with several other tour members, visited the Szechenyi baths, both the indoor and outdoor pools, last September and we all found them delightful and a wonderful experience. I have my phobias about germs and public places, but honestly didn't even think of these things while at the baths. The changing rooms and shower rooms were not the most modern looking, but it's an old building and tries hard to keep up. There was not indication of buildings being unclean either. I hope you go and enjoy.

Posted by
61 posts

I went to the Szechenyi baths in October of 2015, just the large outside pool. The little cabin was fine. Although one of my tour members (a physician) had expressed concern regarding hygiene, I smelled what seemed like swimming pool chemicals. The water was jetted (and filtered?). The water was very clear and I had no issues with rashes. I can't attest to the indoor pools. I would go again in a heartbeat!

Posted by
2540 posts

With great anticipation, I visited the Széchenyi thermal bath. It was a bit underwhelming and the thought of a good scrubbing came to mind. Would I visit again when next in Budapest? Oh sure.