We will be in Vienna soon and would like to enjoy dinner and wine at a Heurige. Does anyone have advice on which is the best choice? We are looking at going to Grinzing or Pfarrplatz. How far from Vienna are these places?
Posted by
Shoreline, WA
216 posts
Susan
Grinzing is the center of Heurigen culture in Vienna. It's located in the 'suburbs' just northeast of downtown, and it's surrounded by other former villages with a wine tradition (Heiligenstadt, Pötzleinsdorf, Hernals, etc.) You will have no trouble finding a nice Heurigen, if you pay attention to the daily 'Ausg'steckt' notice in the newspapers - not all Heurigen are open every day!
Highly recommended is the Weingut am Reisenberg near the Cobenzlgasse. Some other good restaurants are highlighted in the Vienna listings at tripadvisor.com
Posted by
OP
Atlanta, Ga, USA
2023 posts
Thank you for the advice. We will be in Vienna October 26-30. Maybe the tourist crowd will be smaller in numbers. We were there last year in November and it was great--few people at Schonbrunn Palace. And we will not have a car--public transportation for us and the tram service is very good.
Posted by
Vienna, Austria
517 posts
Well, the good news is: I don't think there is such a thing as a bad Heuriger. My family loves them and we spend far too much time at them. Anyway, I'll be a bit of a disenting voice here and say that we hardly ever go to Grinzing. If the Heuriger you are sitting in is going to be invaded by a tour bus crowd from Japan or Italy, it will most likely happen in Grinzing. (However, to answer your question: Grinzing is a straight shot on the 38 tram, takes about 30-40 minutes to get there.) For a couple of reasons we prefer the Heurigen in Neustift am Walde (35A bus from Spittelau U-bahn station, again takes about 40 minutes or taxi is 20 Euro or so from the ring.) The main street in Neustift am Walde has heurigen end-on-end and one is more charming than the next. You are less likely to run into mobs of tourists, though you may well meet some expats who live in Vienna. One reason I like Neustift is that, on the right hand side of the street, if you go out the back door of the heurigen (many of them, anyway)and through their shady patios, you can walk straight into the vineyards and you can see the Vienna woods at the top of the hill. Here is a link to one of the better known neustift heurigen that has such a "backdoor". It is gorgeous. (Although in winter it is not quite as fantastic as in the summer):
http://www.dasschreiberhaus.at/index.html
If you are really looking for a small, family run place with ONLY neighborhood locals... go to one of the heurigen in Sievering (15 minute walk from Neustift or 39A bus from Heiligenstadt U-station) Our favorite is: http://www.heuriger-koller.at/ Walk half a block from Koller and you are literally in the Vienna woods. Last week we saw them harvesting their grapes! But call or check their schedule: Koller is usually only open the first 2 weeks or so of every month. (Warning Sievering is sorta in the boonies. Very quiet.) Again Heurigen are best in summer when you can sit outside. Enjoy your trip and best of luck.