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Two days for the Rhine... Koblenz?

My wife and I are going to Germany in July and have two days/two nights to spend in the Rhine region. There are two main things we want to do: cruise the Rhine (especially between Bacharach and St. Goar) and see Burg Eltz. We will be arriving in the region from Rothenberg in the morning of the first day and will not have a car. How should we go about this, and where should we stay?

My initial plan was to take the train from Rothenberg to Bacharach, spend a little bit of time in Bacharach (Rick mentions a good souvenir shop with a nice discount where I can mail everything home), then catch the last cruise at 15:30 to Koblenz. We'd stay in Koblenz both nights, daytripping to Burg Eltz on the second day.

My only concern is that Rick writes off Koblenz as "not a nice town", yet Bacharach looks awfully small (i.e., not much to do when we're not on the cruise or visiting Burg Eltz). We saw Koblenz on another travel show and it looks like a lovely place to stroll through, plus it appears to be very easy to get to Burg Eltz from there (and yes, we're prepared for the walk to the castle).

Any thoughts on Koblenz? Any reason not to stay there, or reasons to stay in Bacharach/St. Goar?

Posted by
19240 posts

A few years ago, I walked from Deutsches Eck through the old town back to the train station in Koblenz. It was a Sunday, about noon, and the locals were out sitting in the sun at curbside cafes. Although it lacks the touristy feel of Bacharach, I would not characterise it as "not nice", maybe just nothing special. If it is convenient to your travel, that is the important thing.

However, it is a fairly large city, so make sure you know how to get from the boat dock to your hotel and to the train station.

In Bacharach, the station is on the far end of town, away from the hotels. It is a small town, so it is not a bad walk, but a walk nevertheless.

In St. Goar, the hotels are just a few blocks down the hill from the station.

As for the Rhein cruise, I think by far the most interesting stretch is from Bacharach to St. Goar (Pfalzgrafenstein, Loreley). I would get off in St. Goar and take the train from there.

Posted by
12313 posts

I think Lee says it right. Koblenz is nothing special. I wouldn't waste limited travel time there.

The cruise from Bacharach to St. Goar (or opposite) covers what you really want to see. You can catch a train at either end.

Both St.Goar and Bacharach are small towns with little nightlife. They are worth spending some time at and have an assortment of Pensions, small hotels, and food options.

I've been there as a single and enjoyed walking the old walls, the ruined castle and church, the grape vines. As a family on a seperate trip, staying at Burg Stahlek (a castle turned into a hostel) and exploring Rheinfels ruins were highlights.

Posted by
47 posts

My only concern with staying in Bacharach was that there wouldn't be much to do and that it wouldn't take too long to explore the whole town. I suppose I could do with some time to relax and write if it comes to that.

Is it not worth taking the cruise beyond the Bacharach-St. Goar stretch if one has the time? I have enough time to cruise all the way to Koblenz and take a train back, should I stay in Bacharach.

Posted by
2 posts

My wife and I stayed in Bacharach for two nights. The walk through Bacharach in Rick's book was really nice (we met some goats). We visited St. Goar to see the castle ruins there (which was our favorite castle). The town did not seem to have the same unusual character that Bacharach has. We were a bit disappointed with the river cruises. We visited Burg Eltz on the way from Bacharach to Cochem. The hike to Burg Eltz was the best. If you have the time, you might consider visiting Cochem instead of spending the time to cruise the river. I don't have them sorted by town here, but several of these pics were taken in Bacharach, Cochem, and on the way to Burg Eltz.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/abigsliceofpie/sets/72157603901568239/

have fun!

Posted by
12313 posts

For the cruise, the stretch between St. Goar and Bacharach has concentrations of interesting castles, the Lorelei and vine covered hills on either side. If you go longer you don't really add anything. The ride gets less interesting as you head toward Koblenz. It's not horrible, it's just that your return for your time invested is greatly reduced.

Posted by
1526 posts

I had two military tours in Germany. By chance my first long weekend of each tour I spent a night in Koblenz. It is not tourist oriented but still a nice town.

It is good for me to spend some time in places that are not solely devoted to American tourism. My wife and I like window shopping, cafe hunting and department store browsing; so German cities appeal to us. We certainly like Rothenburg, Neuschwanstein, etc. We also like places that mix tourism with other facets of German life. If this appeals to you, you might still consider Koblenz.

Regards, Gary