Trip Report: Perpignan, Tarragona, Barcelona, Mallorca

Sidetripped to Collioure for my 30th birthday, and could not have asked for a better treat. What a beautiful little town. Although there were lots of people visiting, it most definitely did not have that overrun feeling beach towns can get so easily. Lots of great opportunities for exploring (especially if you’re willing to brave some rocky ledges). Excellent food … I had one of the best salads of my life there, and reasonably priced, too. There’s so much unique shopping there, too. Good thing we only stopped for a day – I’m not normally big on shopping, but I could have gone wild. Watched some petanque on the way out; just a great day.
Headed to Tarragona, Spain after 3 nights in Perpignan. Tarragona is wonderful, particularly if you’re interested in Roman history, like we are. Happened to visit during Tarraco Viva, an annual Roman history festival, so admission to all the tourist sites was free! Unfortunately, their wonderful aqueduct was being renovated, but we still took the bus out to the country side to see it. Only half was covered – totally worth the trip. Also, we stayed at Hostal Noria – only 36 euro a night for a double room, and the proprietor set us up with a view of Place de la Font, the city’s most lively square. Try La Taverna’s patatas bravas …. 5 euro for a giant racione, and the best I’ve ever had. It was great … lots to see and do, plus a pretty nice strip of beach to enjoy when your feet get tired of walking. Spent three nights here – could have easily done a week and just enjoyed everything. Exceptionally friendly people there.

Finally, we were able to return to Barcelona – amazing feeling. We rented a small apartment overlooking Placa Real from Enjoy Barcelona and fell in love with it. Great for our purposes – lots of stairs, though, so folks with mobility problems might want to choose a different apartment. Grocery shopped and saved a ton of money. Really enjoyed touring Casa Mila and Parc Guell, which we missed the first time through. Honestly, though, I could spend my days wandering through the Barri Gotic and never get bored. Also, the Barri Gotic’s museum is not to be missed – I had no idea that it housed such an interesting view of ancient Barca. Cervaceria Canarias in Placa Real has nice tapas. I recommend their croquetas de pollo. Delish! Another tip: hit up La Boqueria and the grocery store along La Rambla (heading toward Placa Catalunya) to fill some of your tapas cravings. We got jamon iberico from the market for a fraction of the price you pay at a tapas bar, plus some great banderillas and tortilla espanya at the grocery store. Makes for a wonderful inexpensive – and decadent – lunch. Oh, and catch the Font Magica shows at least once. I thought it sounded cheesy, but it’s really quite an experience. We ended up going back twice and having after dinner drinks there.

After five magical nights and countless experiences, we flew (19 euro each!) on Vueling to Palma de Mallorca. What a beautiful city! It’s easy to get from the airport to the town center; just catch bus No. 1. I believe it’s 2 euro a piece. We stayed at Hostal Apuntadores -- perfect location, even better terrace that directly overlooks the cathedral (which is spectacular inside and out). Lots of wine and tapas up there (two grocery stores around the corner make it cheap and convenient). Ses Illetes has two great beaches only about 20 minutes away by bus No. 3 (last stop), 1.25 euro each way. Try Comtessa … it’s slightly more peaceful. In town, in Plaza Rei Joan Carles (right off of the beautiful Passeig des Born … great tree-lined mini-Ramblas) try both Bar Bosch and Café Bar Palma, the latter having the best bocadillo of tortilla espanya (con queso) that I’ve ever had … too good. Also, after you’ve had your ensaimada at Café Forn, keep going down the street (20 meters or so) around the left-bending turn, there’s an amazing gelateria. I had the freshest coconut there … too refreshing.
Anyway, we both agreed that it was our best trip ever. If you’re curious about anything, ask away! Thanks to all of you for the advice you’ve given me along the way!

Hi Ashley,

Thanks for posting the report, complete with all sorts of tips. Appreciate the time you took to write it out, it'll be helpful for next time I'm in the area!

wow, thanks! i'm going to barcelona for a week in august, and was planning on a day trip to tarragona--perhaps i'll make it an overnight, given your great reviews and the crazy-cheap lodging you cited (25E for a single room!) in your opinion, given a week, would you spend more than a day away from barcelona in tarragona?

Hmmm... that's a toughie. There's so much to do and see in Barcelona. If you're talking a full seven days, you could probably pull two nights out, but anything less and I'd say no.

Check out http://www.tarragonaturisme.cat/. You can e-mail Hostal Noria at [email protected] if you're interested. Most of the workers there don't speak much English, so be sure to phrase your e-mail in very simple terms.
It's not a fancy hotel at all; rooms are very plain, but with very large, almost American-sized bathrooms (almost unheard of, at least in budget hotels). I can't vouch for what the other rooms were like, but the one we had (overlooking the square) made the whole trip. It gets quite lively outside, but we weren't bothered by noise. Oh, and the ground level floor is a cafe of sorts (like a little snack bar).

Loved your report, Ashley! Thanks for posting.