Staying in Paris: Marais vs. Luxembourg

I really like the Grande Hotel Jeanne d'Arc in the Marias. Probably a 17th C building on a very quiet side street right off major street with markets/shops/restaurants, fits your budget, found the people to be very helpful, about a block from the metro which was nice when weather got bad. Easy walk to Notre Dame and Louvre, although that doesn't sound like it's crucial to you. Very simple, but the room had a bathroom with shower and there was an elevator and breakfast room.

Fair points, Kent!

I guess by touristy, I mean that I'd rather not see a bunch of other Americans at the same hotel and in all the nearby restaurants. So yes, your point about the RS-toting guests at Jeanne d'Arc is valid.

By unpretentious restaurant, I mean something that is not overly stuffy / expensive. Basically, I'd like a neighborhood with a lot of casual but not fast-food options (like $25 per person for dinner). The more I think about it, this is kind of a stupid point to make since Paris is a huge city with tons of options.

Also, as for the rooms, I'd prefer something that feels European--not in terms of size, but decor, ambience and/or furnishings (for example, wood-beamed ceilings).

Restaurants: Yep, as you say, Paris has hundreds of eating options, including many in both districts you've mentioned--so that's not a useful criterion for choosing between Luxembourg versus Marais.

Re "I'd rather not see a bunch of Americans at the hotel"--well (sigh), we understand, you see enough of us here; is it okay if some here feel as you do and, for that reason, note the hotel you select and give it a wide berth?:-) Just kidding, it's been a slow Friday night here

But, seriously, you do realize (it's obvious, n'est-ce pas?) that this means you're going to want to avoid any hotel mentioned by Rick Steves in his books; and actually, that you'll want to disregard any suggestions made here by anyone other than our Canadian cousins (seeing Canadians would be okay, I take it?)

Okay, kidding aside:

To pick hotels and restaurants in Paris where you won't see a bunch of us--go to the link below, which is an authoritative source apparently not used by many on this forum (you see where I'm going with this suggestion), but is reportedly used by beaucoup de Europeans to pick hotels and restaurants

http://www.viamichelin.co.uk/viamichelin/gbr/tpl/hme/MaHomePage.htm

Tip on using the Viamichelin site: to search the Marais, include Paris 75003 in the town/city box (75003 is 3rd arr.); and to search Luxembourg, use 75006)

On the Viamichelin site you'll be able to check out lots of Paris hotels and keep your eyes peeled for wood-beamed ceilings (which may cost you more than your budget of €135/night, but who knows).

ok to me the marais wins hands down...

Hi Jake,

I'm not sure when you're going, but my husband and I will be going next week, and we'll be staying in the Marais's Hotel Beaubourg. If I get easy access to the internet while I'm there (for 6 nights), I'll let you know how it is...

As for restaurants, I've been on Chowhound.com's France board a lot lately, and there are HEAPS of recommendations there.

But to answer your question, I'd (obviously) stay in the Marais.

Cheers!

Thanks again, Kent. Very helpful! And perhaps I am being too harsh. I'm not trying to avoid my fellow Americans; I just want to stay in an area that sees plenty of tourists, but does not necessarily cater to them (like Midtown in NY does ... I'm thinking more Village). I'm more concerned about the restaurants/shops around the hotel than the hotel itself.

Anyone else (or Kent), I'm learning that the 3eme and 4eme in La Marais are fairly different. I get that nightlife and boutiques are big near the Bastille, with the mansions closer to Place des Vosges, but am having trouble getting a read on the Beaubourg side. Is it as quaint as the streets to its east, or more grand? I prefer quaint.

Hi Jake,

We've stayed at both the Grande Hotel Jean d'Arc and Hotel des Grandes Ecoles and both are good! I'd recommend Hotel des Grandes Ecoles as it's near Rue Moufftard (which has the nightlife you describe) and also is a nice walk to Notre Dame, Ile Saint Louis and beyond. The rooms in both hotels are small but that's typical for Paris.

Have a great time in Paris!

We have stayed at Hotel Grandes Ecoles several times and really like this hotel. The location is great--near Rue Mouffetard which is a cute market street--I prefer it over Rue Cler and there are many good restuarants in that area. The last time we stayed at HGE(5/08) our room rate was 128euros--room 134 which was not small, overlooked the terrace, and was beautifully decorated. This area is within walking distance to Notre Dame, St Germaine, etc. Metro is Cardinal Lemione if I remember correctly.

Jake: "I'm learning that the 3eme and 4eme in La Marais are fairly different."

It's tempting, but leads to inaccuracy, to start generalizing too much about the various arrondissements.

One of the main differences between the 3rd and 4th is that the 4th includes the river and the two islands, whereas the 3rd is north of the 4th, not on the river. This causes the two districts to be different from each other. But it's difficult to generalize.

As you seem to be figuring out on your own, the 4th does start to change character as you move to the northwest toward the Pompidou (called Beaubourg) in the northwest corner of the district.

we stayed at the AXIAL Beaubourg on our first trip in 2005 and really loved the hotel. Location is great adn the staff were wonderful. Rooms small but very nice.
Since then we rent apartments.

I don't think there are many areas in Paris that qualify as "touristy" in the sense that they cater only to tourists. Maybe the area right around Sacre Couer; maybe right around the Louvre, maybe the Ile St Louis (though Parisians certainly live in these places, too, they just happen to have a very high concentration of visitors). There's really no Paris equivalent to Midtown. Paris is the most touristed city in the world, so you will see tourists everywhere that you probably want to go. If you're really determined to avoid tourists, you could rent an apartment (or find a hotel) in one of the outlying arrondissements (some of which are nice and some of which are not so nice). That would give you a more "Parisian" experience, though it might not be convenient to sights. Actually, renting an apartment, rather than staying in a hotel, in any neighborhood would be a more Parisian experience.

The Marais is certainly not undiscovered, not by a long shot. It's a very popular place to stay/visit. I've stayed there and I don't think the restaurant options are good (see in the Michelin guide how few listings this neighborhood has), though it does have quite a few casual, inexpensive places, so you may like it. It has the famous L'as du falafel.

Have you confirmed availability at the hotels you've narrowed it down to? No point in agonizing over whether or not to stay at Hotel des Grandes Ecoles (a VERY popular hotel) if they're booked!

I just noticed your wood beamed ceiling comment. Our room in the Hotel Beaubourg had them, and it's in the Marais. It was a very nice hotel but other than the ceilings, I don't know it was particularly "Parisian." Now, in my mind that's not a bad thing--I can't tell you how many French hotels I've stayed in that had bad flowery wallpaper (the rooms at the Grandes Ecoles are exactly what I mean) and generally frilly-ness. Not my style. And like I said I wasn't that interested in what the neighborhood had to offer, but I think others like it.

Oh, one more thing--the Logis du France is a great website for finding hotels, particularly good value, family owned small hotels and inns, and it's not used much by Americans.

Jake, think renting an apartment. We were in Paris last May and rented an apartment in the 7th A which was much less than surrounding hotels. We will be in Paris again in June for 6-8 days and again will rent an apartment, this time in the 5th or 6th A. Although we enjoy eating out, it is fun to shop at the local veggy, fruit, and meat shops for our foodstuffs. The apartments always have refrig space. Dorsey

Renting an apt is a good idea for your length of stay, and you will probably find something that meets all your needs.

The Hotel des Grandes Ecoles is very nice (no wooden beams -- a LOT of toile (ask your wife). However, one nice feature of their website is a way to check out other Paris hotels in the areas where you are interested. It's very user friendly.

Kent, Jake said they would be there for 6 days. I highly recommend an apartment. We have stayed in a hotel and we have stayed in apartment and the apartment was so much better. It felt very Parisian in decor and had a kitchen, washer & dryer, a lot more room than the hotel and was in a neighborhood not overloaded with tourists. Of course there will be tourists wherever you go. We paid $145 (yes, dollars) per night. We were in the Latin Quarter (5th), so not in the areas you are considering, but I just wanted to let you know that the kind of place you want is possible. An apartment will probably cost less than a hotel, believe it or not!

Thanks to everyone who has replied for their helpful advice! Unless I decide to rent an apartment, I think I'll try the Hotel Beaubourg. It seems to fit most of my criteria; though it's not in the heart of the Marais, it does seem close enough to get the flavor. I couldn't find another hotel with the same amenities/rooms at the same price point farther to the east (without going too far out of the way).

Thanks again!

Marcellina: Buy them in Paris.

Christy, while the western tip of Ile Saint Louis and 2-3 blocks down the main street through the island may be very touristy, the entire rest of Ile Saint Louis is not touristy. It's very much like a little French village. That's one of the reasons why we love staying there.

I loved the area near Luxembourg garden, I stayed there last december. In a small hotel right across the street from the gardens using the metro stop Vauvin. There were many great little places to eat, with wonderful people. Most of the times I was there I did not see any other americans or tourists, mostly locals. I've never stayed in the marais I can't compare unfortunately. Enjoy your trip where ever you stay!

Christy, Do you remember if the Hotel Beaubourg provides bathroom amenities, like shampoo and conditioner? I'm just wondering how much to bring with me... Thanks!

Marcellina, I can't remember since I bring my own. But it is a 3 star and had comforts like a minibar, so it might.
Yeah Susan I don't really think the island is "touristy" but if someone is really trying to get off the beaten path, they'd probably be put off by the swarms of tourists at the tip and on the main street.

Hello. My husband and I stayed in Paris in June. We stayed in the 6th Arron. Our hotel was called the "Le Littre". It was very nice and close to the subway. We are planning on going back there next year. I don't know what their rates will be, but we do recommend the hotel. If you go there though, skip the breakfast. It was expensive. We walked all over Paris and used their subway. The "Le Littre" was close to the subway. To get a real feel of Paris, we took some "Gray Line Bus Tours". They were great. Elaine