Has anyone been in Seville during their annual Spring Fair? My husband and I are considering going this year since we will be in Madrid during the dates it runs, but are curious about what it is like. Do the prices on everything go way up? Are you still able to experience Seville for what it is (it's charm, soul, ambience, etc)? Would you recommend going during the fair, or avoid it?
Thanks!
Jessica,
Unless you are a serious student of human behavior, skip it! The Feria de Abril is indeed a part of "Seville for what it is", but that is anything but charming, soulful, etc. First off, and just to disabuse your notion of Sevillian "openness", the Fair is for and about Sevillians. If you don't know locals enough for an invite, you won't be allowed access to the tents where the partying takes place. (There are a number of public tents, which are absolutely mobbed with "ambience".) This leaves you with the option of wandering the makeshift dirt streets between the tents, listening to the music, watching the Japanese tourists (who can't get into a private tent either) dance, avoiding puddles of urine and vomit, and hopefully not getting involved in a brawl between groups of drugged teenagers. This will be an experience, all right, at least until it starts raining. (Traditionally, Feria is the time for the annual Spring rains and a garbage collector's strike.) Feria is a shining example of Seville at its absolute worst. Even if the prices weren't abusive, you would do well to exclude it from your itinerary.
On the other hand, all towns have their own fairs. Just check the local paper or ask a couple of locals and they'll direct you to the nearest little town, where you'll get a perspective of Spanish generosity and festivity. The web www.fiestasdeandalucia.com/provincia.htm also has a partial list of fairs. (My personal recommendation would be Cordoba, at the beginning of May.)
Hi Jessica,
I lived in Seville for a year and visited the Feria. I'd second the observation that you have to know a Sevillano and get an invite to the private casetas. However, if you get an invite, take it! Feria is very much a microcosm of Seville and it's charm and traditions. Quite an amazing event. But it'd be a big waste to just show up without the "enchufe" or connection as we say here.
That said, the Feria is on the other side of the river near Triana, so there are still opportunities in the main part of town to explore traditional Seville. While there will be more tourists during this week, there are many streets to explore throughout the city that are not touristy.
I lived on Calle Duque Cornejo, near the church San Luis. It's one of the oldest neighborhoods in Seville and is located within the Macarena district which is about a 25 min. walk north of the main sites (Giralda, University, Alcazar). There are some really cute hotels, tapas bars, and cafes near there and you can easily get lost in the narrow cobble-stoned streets made for horse and carriage.
I'll be thinking about some other tips for you and try to post those a little later.
