Romantic Road

The point to "doing" the Romantic Road is not the drive. It is a narrow, winding 2 lane road choked with sightseers, trucks, buses, and farm equipment. The Romantic Road is the towns along the way. So, it's not the distance between two towns, it's what you can see and do in the towns. In 2007, I rolled into Nördlingen about dinner time. My hotel, Zum Engel, was a short walk from the train station and just outside one of the gates. I had dinner and strolled into town to orient myself. The next morning I explored the town in detail, walked the Wehrgang on part of the wall, climbed the church tower, then had lunch before taking the short bus ride to Dinkelsbühl. I really loved Nördlingen. I had planned to stay 4 hours in Dinkelsbühl, but after Nördlingen, I didn't find Dinkelsbühl that interesting and left after 3 hour. I spent the night in Feuchtwangen, a nice enough town, but not a must-see. The next morning, after an early morning stroll through Feuchtwangen, I took the bus to Rothenburg where I had lunch. So, if you are going to spend at least 24 hours (including overnight) in Rothenburg, spending the previous night in Nördlingen and seeing Nördlingen, Dinkelsbühl, and maybe Feuchtwangen on the way to Rothenburg and having some time to spend in Rothenburg when you get there is not a bad idea. BTW, I'd already been to Rothenburg twice, so I only had lunch there, the went on to Weikersheim, where I spent the night. Weikersheim, again, is interesting, but not, IMO, a must-see. From there I went to Bad Mergentheim, where I visited the Deutshesordnung Museum (museum of the Teutonic Knights), a must see IMO, before going on to Würzburg.

Even though they are only a short distance apart, both Dinkelsbuhl and Rothenburg are worth it. Dinkelsbuhl is a lot smaller but also is completely walled and there is also a remnant (at least) of their old moat with ducks. The short distance between the two would in effect give you more time in Rothenburg. We have visited Rothenburg for three days at a time more than once, enjoyed it, so much to see. We have also visited Dinkelsbuhl on the same trips, but only spent the day. Again enjoyed it.

A little more info on my Romantic Road plans: We start at Fussen after we see Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau Castles. Then we head north. One night somewhere along the way, then it seems like two nights in Rothenberg would be a good idea. We can see Heidelberg on our way to Frankfurt to catch our flight. We will probably have to skip Wurzburg. So, the 20,000 dollar question is, where should we stay the first night on the Romantic Road?

I guess it depends on whether you see Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau the day before starting north or you if you spend most of the first day seeing the castles before heading North. If you have enough time, I would go to Nördlingen, then spend the next day making you way via Nördlingen to Dinkelsbühl to Rothenburg. If you don't have enough time the first day, go for the night to Landsberg am Lech or Donauwörth. You are cheating yourself on time. In 2007, I spent 3 days (24 hr periods, noon to noon) just traveling between Wieskirche and Rothenburg. Like I said, it's not the travel, it's the places to stop on the way.

Lee is correct. The travel now along Romantic Road (and other areas) is mostly Autobahn or other express routes that skirt the villages. the fun of Romantic road, and other areas in germany, is the villages themselves. you could quite easily spend three or more days just poking along and strolling around any interesting village you see. When I first did Romantic Road, it was more through the villages and around the farms. There are brochures on the romantic Road that describe the main sights in the villages you pass

I like Heidelberg very much but it differs from Rothenburg in that it is more of a 'living' town. It has a university, a castle, all of the stores that you would expect to see and fast food outlets. It is beautiful in the main, but less picturesque and quaint in my mind. Rothenburg gives you more of a German flavour and my suggestion would be for 2 nights here rather than Heidelberg. It depends what you want from your visit.

"The travel now along Romantic Road (and other areas) is mostly Autobahn or other express routes that skirt the villages." I'm not sure I understand that statement. The official Romantic Road, as designated by signs along the way, is not "Autobahn and other express routes". It's a series of 2-lane country roads, 17 and 23 south of Augsburg and 25 from there to Rothenburg. I took the bus most of the way from Wieskirche to Bad Mergentheim (4+ days), traveling on those country roads. One day I took the train from Landsberg am Lech to Nördlingen, because it was there, went through the same towns, and was faster.

If you go to Rothenberg stay the night and take the night watchmans tour.It was one of our trip highlights.The guy is funny and informative.

@ Lee; thx; had forgotten the name of St Jakob's Church in Rothenburg. That carving was pretty fantastic; amazing to think that 1 person carved such a life-like recreation. Oh, and saw your earlier post re: "traveling 'down' the Rhine" forgot re: the direction!; just remember doing it and having a great day. All of those castles & towns along the way were beautiful. And agree w/ you re: Koblenz-nothing memorable about it at all (all I remember is that satue of Kaiser Wilhem); I was just there fora very short time to pick up the KD Line boat (had taken overnight train from Berlin, through Dusseldorf; had a great time on the train; was fun way to travel that night!). Thx for the correction- you clearly know your stuff. Always good to hear from a fellow, independent, Rick Steves traveler.

You should do at least a day in Wurzburg, you won't regret it.

Rothenburg is great and, while very busy and "touristy" during the day (due to ALL of the tour busses/day trips), it takes on an entirely different atmosphere at night. For the most part, it's you and the locals, so I was very glad that I spent the night there. A great hotel option is Gasthof Butz (http://www.kreiselmeier.de). It's right off the main square, has clean & very comfortable rooks (mine was large and had a private bathroom) and the breakfast each AM was great. There's a restaurant/pub on the main level, which I enjoyed at night. I arrived in the early AM (from Baden Baden), so dropped my bag off at Gasthof Butz, had all day to go around (the Imperial Museum, walk the wall, Kathy Wolfhart Xmas store--touristy as hell, but still fun,--the church w/ the amazing wood carving of The Last Supper--forget name off hand, walk through the gates, etc.), spent the night, then had the next AM to also sight see, and then got on the Romantic Road Bus in early afternoon. The bus stopped at Dinklesbuhl, so I got to see it that way, rather then spend the night. I agree w/ the post above re: not staying in both Rothenburg and Dinklesbuhl-- they're too close together. I'd pick Rothenburg, as I did, and stop in Diklesbuhl (very pretty) to enjoy it for a little while. The Romantic Road is great-- you're sure to enjoy. I hope this info helps-- respond here or shoot a message if you have specific questions.

The carved wooden alter in the back of St. Jakob's church in Rothenburg is by Tilman Riemenschneider.

We stayed in Rothenberg for 3-4 nights and we could have stayed longer. The town is so picturesque that it seems unreal, literally as if it is a movie set. Yet not fakey a la Disney. It's architecture is colorful and beautiful, and completely charming. As one person mentioned, do the Night Watchman's tour, you'll never forget it. Look on TripAdvisor for more info and for photos, and I'm sure you'll be convinced that Rothenberg is worth your time. It is unique.