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Restaurants in Provence

We will be traveling to Provence next Spring, visiting Arles, St Remy, Tarascon, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Carpentras and Chateaunuef du-Pap. We are looking for recommendations on "local" restaurants that have authentic Provencal cuisine, not the highly publicized Michelin type establishments.

Posted by
4132 posts

Jim, Michelin is actually a great source for this kind of information. The Red Guide includes budget & value picks as well as the snooty star establishments.

Posted by
4684 posts

If you can read basic French (or even not, if you're willing to pick addresses at random and take a bit of pot luck with cuisine) my absolute recommendation for finding authentic, good-value restaurants anywhere in France is to get to a bookshop as soon as you can once you arrive and buy a "Routard" guide for the area. These are French tourist guides aimed at backpackers and as a result they are very good for finding economical but good food. I've followed their recommendations many times in different French cities and towns and only once been slightly disappointed. Or look for places with "Routard" stickers on the door - the logo is a young guy with a globe strapped to his back instead of a rucksack.

Posted by
57 posts

Jim, We stayed in Arles last May, and of your six towns, we dined in two: Arles and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. The two places we ate dinner in Arles were authentic, local, and delicious: Le Cilantro and A Cote (next door to the expensive L'Atelier). In Isle-sur-la-Sorgue we enjoyed lunch of salad nicoise and fish skewers at a table canalside at Le Bellevue, a lovely setting. At all three places we had professional, polite service, you might even say friendly in the cool, French way that we've come to appreciate.

Posted by
3696 posts

Every restaurant I have eaten at in St. Remy was fantastic...have been there many times..a few favorites Le Lizard (casual & fun bar type atmosphere with an incredible hamburger!not sure how authentically Provencal it is, but the best burger my friends and I ever had) Also Cafe Marie is a favorite. Lunch from the market..just look for the locals!

Posted by
1022 posts

I think I know what you mean by "Michelin type establishments" but I wouldn't dismiss Michelin recommendations. Usually they are good, even excellent, though on rare occasions we've been unimpressed. A Michelin rec in Aigues-Mortes, which I highly recommend as a day trip from Arles if you have a car, is Le Cafe de Bouziques, a pleasant retreat from the tourist crowd with fine food and service. The Michelin Restaurant app on our iPhone gave us the name as we wandered the streets of the walled medieval city. Michelin Green Guide Provence is an excellent resource, too, for things to do and see as well as places to eat. Rick Steves' recs can be good finds. We had lunch at Le Grillon at the Roman Arena in Arles and enjoyed it. Le Bistro de Roussillon in Roussillon was so-so in our opinion. However, Hotel les Florets in Gigondas was outstanding for food, service and ambiance. Then there are the places one stumbles upon like Le Petit Cafe in the center of Oppede le Vieux and the restaurant at Auberge de Carcarille near Gordes. It's fun to take a risk and have it turn out well.

Posted by
10344 posts

Same as others have said about Michelin: it's a good source of recommendations. Michelin has been rating restaurants in France for a hundred years and are used by locals. Now available online.

Posted by
273 posts

In Arles you have to visit "L'Atieler" sp? de jean luc rabinel.