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Paris...don't want to miss the magic

I have reserved a spot on a Rick Steves tour, "Paris and the South of France". I have been on two other RS tours, really like the small hotels, the mix of sightseeing and down time, and the way everything is organized so well.

My concern is that I don't want to "see all the sights and miss the magic". Which is what happened in Rome last year because it was so crowded. Like I want to spend some time just sitting in cafe's and feeling the atmosphere....

Posted by
4132 posts

This is really a matter of pacing--to allow time for serendipity--and planning, so that you can make good use of your time, turning on a dime in response to the unexpected setback.

Besides cafes, think of parks and walks as opportunities for magic and refreshment of wonder.

I think your posts shows good instincts, so don't worry too much!

Posted by
16287 posts

Grace, are you making a statement or asking a question? :)

There's no law that says you can't go over early. When you find out which hotel you'll be staying in with the tour, contact them to see if they will let you check in a few days early --at your expense--so you won't have to move hotels. They may even give you a great rate. If not, there are plenty of hotels in Paris.

You have Rick's France book. Go through the Paris section and mark off the things you want to do. And then leave yourself some time for cafe sitting and people watching.

Personally, one of my favorite things to do in Paris is pick an area and just wander. When you get tired, find a cafe, sit down, order a drink, and watch Paris go by.

Posted by
11507 posts

I disagree about going early,, I think you should go a day or two before tour( just to get adjusted from jet lag etc) but then STAY after tour. Then you will have gotten the lay of the land from the tour, you will have been taught how to use the metro, you will have seen a few sites you may want to return and see more of,, and the RS guides( as you know) are great at suggesting other sites to see on your free time. You will have time to do these things, plus sit around and enjoy a cafe or glass of wine at your leisure. Plus, if you have befriended anyone on the tour you can meet for a dinner or two, I found on the one RS tour I did that many people did stay on for a few extra days. I had changed hotels from the RS one( I wanted to spend my last 5 days in a different area, plus the RS was too expensive) after my tour ended,, and still was able to meet tour friends.

Posted by
11507 posts

Sorry,, didn't note that, but if you are flying back out of Paris it still stands. If not, ( flying open jaw into Paris and out of Nice) then everyones suggestion of arriving earlier stands as good advice. On the one and only RS tour I took( a 14 day Family tour with my 12 yr old) we flew into Paris, spent 7 days there, then picked up tour in Rome( flew to Rome one way on Vueling , 80 euros each) then when tour ended in Paris we stayed another 5 days in Paris and flew out of Paris. For us,, we just couldn't find an open jaw flight that wasn't very expensive so this worked. Hopefully you will be luckier that way.

Posted by
138 posts

I was delighted by the number of replies to my query! Merci merci merci!

Though I can't go even a day early (I work at a school which ends May 28, and if you get summers off they expect you not to travel during the rest of the year!) I will make sure to allow time for just watching the world go by, even if it means missing some of the sights.....I'm not young (61) but I'm a good walker....and I've been doing a set of French conversational CD lessons in my car....love trying to make those sounds!
Even from reading the other posts I think I'll avoid the Champs Elysees.....trendy shopping leaves me cold....definitely do want to see the paintings, I'm reading a book on the Impressionists "The Judgement of Paris" which is fascinating, and I love Monet..
I don't have my guidebook yet, but as soon as I get it I'll study the Paris section and then I'll probably have more queries....
By the way, the reason for this post was....that our jammed crowded last two days in Rome last year (Heart of Italy tour) left me disullusioned about finding magic in that great city.....even the Trevi fountain at night was wall to wall tourists....yes, it was July but that was the only Italy tour which did not interfere with my work schedule...
Thanks again everyone....

Posted by
2791 posts

Grace,

Having done both Paris and Rome.. IMHO it's easier to find the magic in Paris. I had the same type of experience in Rome you did (and it was early May!, but have always found Paris just a little less "chaotic" for some reason!

Posted by
2001 posts

Grace, if you want to give Rome another try-go on one of the 7 Days in Rome tours during the winter. I did this last Xmas. Arrived on 24th and tour started on 25th. The weather wasn't bad-some rain and low 50's, but the crowds weren't bad either-a definite plus. I think the 'magic' of Rome and of Paris are both found in walking around by yourself or,if you are lucky with a special friend, & stopping to have a coffee or a sweet and watch the world go by.

Posted by
19 posts

Grace, If you love Monet, besides the Orsay, be sure to see the Orangerie Museum for his waterlilies. You might want to try for a day trip to his home in Giverney. Also the collection at the Marmottan in Paris has art owned by Monet - as well as some of his work. A bit of research will tell you what would be intersting and plausible for you.
The Orangerie and Giverney were "magical" to me.
Bon Voyage, Annie

Posted by
2030 posts

I've been to Paris 7 times and still long to spend more time sitting in cafes and feeling the atmosphere -- though I have done quite a bit of this. It's a magical experience -- but it requires a lot of extra time. If this is your first time in Paris, I would go with the tour itinerary and not worry about doing the cafe scene that much this time. There are many wonderful things to see and do in Paris -- the cafe scene being just one of them. I don't think you will miss it much during the 3 days you will be in Paris, as I'm sure the RS tour will be very well organized to maximize your time there. I'm sure you will want to return though, and hope you will -- you should have other opportunities to hang in the cafes, stroll the streets randomly and enjoy the scene.

Posted by
842 posts

Grace, when we were in Paris last spring we found the time for "just sitting" occured for us at night.

We would come back to our apt after dinner, rest a little, and then head back out ..for dessert.

That was our impetus to get back out after a day of hard touring. Sometimnes I found that taking a shower revitalized me, and we would head out.

One night, using dessert as our excuse to get out and moving, we wandered the park in front of the Eiffel Tower just before Midnight. It was magical. Teenagers and 20 somethings were out on blankets in small goups, listening to music, or just talking. We waited until the special twinkiling lights came on and just marveled at the view.

On other nites we would just find a cafe where there were a lot of people walking by, share a small dessert and drink, and watch the crowds.

Posted by
448 posts

What Steve said sounds good. This summer i had a friend staying in the Rue Cler area and every night she was out with a blanket and a picnic at a different spot on le Champs de Mars fascinated by the many languages heard and shared as everyone waited for the sparkling..Single woman, no problem and enjoyed the "magic"...She even took the "famous" 69 bus out to Pere LaChaise to see Sarah Bernhardt. Got lost going "home", but i guess that's part of the "magic"..and passengers eventually aimed her in the right direction

Posted by
138 posts

I was delighted with the replies and suggestions as to galleries to see Monet paintings, and descriptions of "magical moments" walking around in the evening. I have a place in my planner where I'm taking notes on what I have learned from these contributions. Merci bou coups (sp?) all!

Posted by
797 posts

I also suggest spending a few days in Paris before or after your tour. I just visited in October by myself and made a point to visit a number of Open Air food markets which is one of my favorite things to do to mingle with the real people. I did stay near rue Cler which I enjoy as I am in awe of the Eiffel Tower and enjoying seeing it in all lights and times of day. I can't get any of my favorite links open right now, but google Paris markets or food markets to find some close to you. I visited the Grenelle market and Saxe-Breteiul (? spell), Ledru-Rollin market and the Belleville market. Belleville was the most authentic, really crowded with a multicultural crowd. Grenelle I enjoyed the most as there was a good selection of scarves which is one of my shopping passions. GOod prices for the scarves there.

I did tons of walking. I really enjoyed the Marais district for shops where regular Parisians go, not just the rich ones. I looked up locations of English speaking bookstores before I left and visited two of them; it was nice to chat with a fellow Canadian and get some book recommendations. Sitting in cafe's was one of my favorite things also. I found a cafe near my hotel by a metro stop so it was a perfect place for people watching. I always sat outside and had either a coffee or a drink and sometimes a meal. I visited this cafe almost every day; Cafe Terrasse right by the Ecole Militaire metro stop.

I also had picnics in some parks for lunch, also a great people watching experience and really cuts down on costs too. Happy Travels, June