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Paris at Christmas

We are stuck with cancelled tickets that are very complicated. My wife and child speak French and I would like to give my child the opportunity to practice. So, we were thinking of going to Paris over the Christmas break (12/22 - 12/31). I asked about this on the LP site and someone said it would be cold and wet with no sidewalk cafes. I understand that but was wondering what your oppinions might be about Paris during Christmas. I figure we could take a couple day trips. Please share your thoughts. Thinking too that Belgium might be nice, we haven't been there. Any ideas?
Thank you,

Posted by
8293 posts

Paris is a delight at Christmas. Your child and you, the parents, will enjoy the Christmas-themed windows of the "grands magasins", Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. Such fun to see all the grandparents with their small grandchildren laughing and pointing at everything going on in the windows. There is an ice rink in front of Hotel de Ville and even if you don't rent skates and do some rounds, it's pleasant to watch the others. The ferris wheel at Place de la Concorde is what we are definitely going to try on our visit this December. A canal boat trip which ends at the Science Park would intrigue your child, too. There is a Christmas market on the Grand Parvis at la Defense which we went to last year. It was huge with lots of great stuff to buy and food to enjoy. Also, on both sides of the Champs Elysees leading up to the rond-point, there is a Christmas market, with dozens and dozens of kiosques. You won't lack for things to do in Paris at Christmas.

Posted by
8729 posts

Agree with Norma, Paris is lovely at Christmas. The Tower Eiffel is open as is the nearby skating rink, lights are gorgeous along the Champs de Elysee, around the Place Vendome and on the Galleries Lafayette. The latter hosts lovely Christmas concerts and is home to a nicely decorated tree. Wonderful markets. I like the Christmas market under the Grand Arche, La Defense metro. Who knows what the weather will be like? If it's bad it's a perfect time for hot chocolate and la bouche de Noel. What's not to like? It's Paris!!!!

Posted by
227 posts

I concur with all the above posters. (Ralph: I think LP is Lonely Planet) My experience is that many of the sidewalk cafe's have heaters and clear(ish) plastic panels that lower if it starts raining. Go for it!

Posted by
10261 posts

I say go for it. The Christmas decorations in Paris are beautiful and the holiday is not overly commercialized like it is in the U.S. I don't know where you live to compare the weather, but dress appropriately and you should be fine. I recommend you get an apartment. You will have room to spread out and you will probably spend more time there than you would other times of the year. When we spent 10 nights in Paris over the New Years holiday a few years ago it didn't get light until 9:00 a.m. and it was dark around 4:30 p.m. Also, you would have a kitchen which could come in handy, especially over the holidays when it might be more of a challenge to find places to eat. Bruges is also very festive that time of year. You might want to check it out.

Posted by
12040 posts

Whoever wrote on Lonely Planet that sidewalk cafes are closed during the winter has obviously not traveled to Paris (or any other major European city) during that time. Two words- heat lamps!

Posted by
8293 posts

Tom is so right about heat lamps in the sidewalk cafes in Europe. In Stockholm one cafe even had expensive looking blankets folded over the back of each chair, which you could wrap around your legs to keep cosy.

Posted by
12040 posts

Oh yes, I forgot about the blankets as well. They aren't as universal as the heat lamps, but you see them often enough. Particularly at some of the outdoor bars in the Alps that cater to skiers. People in Europe will eat and drink outside in practically any weather condition except pouring rain. Even a heavy snow storm, as long as there's an umbrella.

Posted by
893 posts

There is actually talk of banning the environmentally-unfriendly heaters at sidewalk cafes. Perhaps that's why there was conflicting information given. As of now, the ban has not happened, and honestly, is unlikely to happen. Paris at Christmas is really nice IMO (albeit potentially cold and wet). Last year, the windows at Galleries Lafayette were pretty dreadful (it had a rock band theme and were more about fashion than Christmas), but there were a lot of decorated buildings and lights at night. The ice skating at the Mairie had long lines, but there weren't any at the ice skating at the Trocadero. (Loved skating with the Eiffel Tower in the background!) Don't know how old your child is, but the Mairie sponsored a free merry-go-round in each arrondissement the week before Christmas. My kids enjoyed every one we found. And the "Grand Roue" is a real treat, especially when you combine it with a walk along the Champs Christmas market. Plan day trips carefully. A lot of places shut down in the week between Christmas and New YEars. Major museums will be open, but minor, private ones, wineries, and other attractions may be closed or have very limited hours. Off the top of my head, I would recommend a trip to Vaux-le-Vicomte as the chateau is nicely decorated for Christmas and they give a small gift to each child that comes through. Your child can also rent a costume to wear as he/she tours. Also be aware of restaurant closings if you are at a hotel. You may find yourself with very limited options on Christmas Eve/Christmas morning.

Posted by
8293 posts

Oh, Dina, I so disagree about the Lafayette windows last year. We thought they were hilarious and the small ones with their noses pressed against the glass were obviously fascinated. All the rock star puppet figures were so cleverly done and so funny. Well, different strokes ....

Posted by
893 posts

Oh Norma, we're going to have to agree to disagree on this one. Last year's windows were such a disappointment compared to the past. There was actually debate outside the school on whether it was even worth it to venture into Paris for them last year. Word on the street had been they weren't any good. I accompanied a youth group (12-14yos) and they all preferred the around-the-world travel theme at Printemps this year. My own kids were amused a bit, but said they were not even close to as good as last year. Who knows what this year will bring.

Posted by
46 posts

Everyone has been very helpful. LP is Lonely Planet, thorn tree to be exact. My daughter will be 15, that might help with your suggestions. Your comments have encouraged me a lot. For day trips we thought about Versailles and Chartres. any other suggestions? Thank you.

Posted by
9423 posts

"For day trips we thought about Versailles and Chartres. any other suggestions? " As Dina said, Vaux-le-Vicomte would be well worth a day trip. You and your daughter might also like the Musee Nissim de Camondo next to Parc Monceau. It was once the home of a wealthy family and very enjoyable to tour. Also, even in winter, the Luxembourg Gardens are not to be missed.