We would like to stay in Paris, but outside the tourist center. We have been many times and want to look at the city differently, but with good Metro access to go to the center when we want. Anyone have a good experience in the outer areas of Paris? We will rent an apartment, so hotels are not an issue. Thanks
Although I've never spent the night in Neuilly-sur-Seine, I've been to that area numerous times and have met people who live there. This would be my recommendation. It's not far from Paris center by Metro (If you buy metro passes, make sure you get the right zones) has a lot of shops and restaurants, but is more residential/neighborhood feeling with more trees and just seems calmer to me.
We rented an apartment in the southern part of Montparnasse (14th arr., Pernety metro) a couple of years ago. Nice neighborhood, good metro connections to everywhere else, close to trains for Chartres and Versailles. We could walk, with some effort, to the Seine, but we usually rode. Lots of restaurants and food stores on rue Raymond Losserand and nearby, the rue Daguerre market wasn't far. The "LesCars" bus to and from CDG stops at gare Montparnasse (we regretted not using it). Less expensive than the 4th-5th-6th-7th where more RS travelers stay. Got the place through Homeaway.com but there are other good sites.
I've stayed in the 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th in apartments rented thru Vacation in Paris and enjoyed all these areas. The 10th, especially, was nontouristy, which I liked. All were within a 5-10 minute walk of at least one Metro/RER station. Am looking at an apartment in the 13th, near the Plc d'Italie for my next trip - like you, trying a new area.
I've not rented an apartment in the Saint Denis suburb but have stayed at an F1 Hotel there on four trips. The Metro station is in the middle of a shopping center complex about 600 meters from the F1. I gather the suburb has a reputation but have never felt in any danger while there. Most of the people there seem to be of North African and Muslim cultures. Friday morning is market day in the square and the halles is just wall to wall with foodstuffs. The basillica of Saint Denis is great for a short tour - it was the burial place of the royal families for centuries. The Metro ride into Paris from Saint Denis is on a standard ticket and takes about 25 minutes.
VacationsinParis.com has a wonderful apartment in the 20th, just across the street from Pere Lachaise Cemetary. It's a charming neighborhood called Belleville, that is truly local - I would often go days without seeing other tourists (outside of the cemetary). The apartment is only 1/2 a block from a good metro line, and it's about a 15 minute Metro ride to most of the main sights, 30 minutes all the way to the Eiffel Tower.