Husband and I are traveling to Normandy in late July, and are seeking suggestions on how to split up our nights – we have 4 nights, up to 5 (if we cut from Amsterdam). This is our first stop, so will be dealing with jet lag the first day. Husband is a history teacher and WWII buff, so we want time to do a full-day tour and spend time on our own. We love small-town Europe but prefer to avoid the super-touristy places. We are thinking the first night in Honfleur and then the next 3 in Bayeux. Is 4 nights too much? We could cut back to 3. Does that split sound right? Or should we split 2 and 2? I hate "one night stands," but Honfleur sounds touristy, so thought maybe it was best to minimize our time there. Also, RS mentions staying in Arromanches – should we spend a night there, or is it easier to just base ourselves in Bayeux? Another option would be to spend a night at MSM – right now I'm thinking we will skip MSM entirely (due to the touristy factor) or, time permitting, just go one afternoon. Thanks for the help!
4 nights will probably be a lot more than you need for the beaches. Take one or two good tours. However I would be tempted to use the 4 nights to see more of the scenery (very nice farming and apple orchard country) for a relaxing time. I would definitely include MSM(half day) and also St Malo, if you want to add the scenic/country angle. Arromanches did not thrill me as a place to stay. Use Bayeaux as your 'beaches' home
Facts, opinions, and impressions based on a lot of time and may trips in the area - - do with them what you will: Honfleur can be touristy as heck, especially in the summer. It's still one of my favorite small towns in northern France, especially because of the old harbor. It also has really good grub. The trick is not to eat down around the port. Instead walk north/uphill to the square. The Corsaire, on the NE corner has a cold-water, non-fried seafood deal for two that you won't be able to finish, but it's expensive. Walk further northeast down the side street next to the Corsaire about a block until it dead-ends. Pick any of the places to eat, they're all good. Hofleuer is worth an afternoon and a night, no more. It's only a couple hours from CDG, so it makes an easy first day. If you have an early flight arrival, you've got time to stop in Rouen (Monet's cathedreal with Lionheart's heart inside, spot where Joan was burned just down the street) for a couple of hours on the way north - - it's well worth it and is only a quick jog off the freeway. For sleeping, my wife likes the Cheval Blanc right by the tidal gate to the port; my preference on guy trips is the cheapo ETAP about a ten-minute walk to the southeast. Three nights in Bayeux is plenty. Two might be enough. For some odd reason I know more about amphibious warfare than most people (and read history until my eyes fall out), but two solid days of poking around (or showing others around) there is about as much as I can take in one dose. I wouldn't even consider repositioning to Arromanches for the night. It's only fifteen minutes from Bayeux and Bayeux has a lot more to offer in the evening/after supper when you need to just wander around.
Good old Mont St Michel. With the exception of a couple places in China, I can't think of any place more crowded with gawking tourists. During the day you have to walk with your arms close to your sides it's so crowded. It's still worth a visit. What I do is take people there late in the afternoon when the buses have left. The prices will knock your socks off (eight bucks for a short beer that will cost two in any other small French town) and the food uniformly sucks at a correspondingly high price. To pay the going rate for a bed makes my stomach churn. What I try to hornswagle folks into doing is leave MSN at dark and let them look back at the lighted mont from the causeway for the classic view - - then press smartly a half hour further west to St Malo. It's the best example of a walled port in France, maybe in Europe and has a good chunk of WWII - associated history as well. It also has good food (especially mussels) at any of the string of places just inside the wall adjacent to the small recreational marina. There are a couple of pretty good, economical places to stay within a block or two of the restaurants. The Le Croiseur is our favorite. You'll need to walk a section of the walls at night if you have time, or at least do it in the morning before you leave. Saint Malo might not suit you, depending on where you're going next, since it puts you a bit further west. However, if you go there and then head back east, you should swing off the freeway and see the dol-de-bretagne (on the south side of the town with the same name) - - it's the tallest menhir I've ever come across and I search for the darn things. If you're heading back toward Paris, Fourgeres is worth a two-hour lunch stop. Falaise ain't - - 'William's Castle' isn't his - - and it's hokey.
We went through the same issues on our trip to Normandy in 2009, however what we did is use the RS book and Chambres dhotesfrance.com. You click on the area of France labled "chambre, and the prices and locations pop up. We used Google street view(no GPS then for us) to find the Chambres. Trying to get into an RS recommended b&b for July at this late date will probably be pretty tough which is why we used the other site. We stayed about an hour from MSM and visited late afternoon when the place was literally empty. Stayed on the coast somewhat midway between Honfleur and the beaches and spent a day touring the landing sites and American cemetery(awesome) We did part of a day in Bayeux on our drive from the MSM area and onto the coast. We drove from Honfleur to Rouen, and stayed south of Rouen at a Chambre right on the Seine, stopped at Giverny the next day, and dropped the car at CDG and caught the train to Brussels. Sadly, we didn't know about this site at the time, and where we stayed has been lost or forgotten. One trick we did learn from our UK friends is if you can read French, use the French and not the English one-the prices are lower!
Bon Chance!
What I forgot for the history guy is Chateau Gaillard up on the hill just south of Les Andelys (ten minutes off the freeway twenty miles south of Rouen). It's pretty much in ruins, but remarkable because it's the only one built in France by Richard I. Worth a stop, total time off the freeway would be less than an hour.
I would stay one night in Honfleur and three nights in Bayeux. Honfleur is beautiful (harbor/buildings) plus (if you're into art), they have a really good art museum. Bayeux is a wonderful town. There's much to see there, plus it's an easy drive to Arramanche. Also, from there you can do a beach tour one day. When we left Bayeux, we drove to MSM and actually spent a night there, but wouldn't have needed to. It's definitely worth seeing especially when the crowds of tourists are not there.
We've been to Honfleur and didn't care for it. Been to Normandy, staying in Bayeux, at least 5 times because we love it so much. I'd stay the whole time in Bayeux, but that's just me. We really like the town and all there is to see there. We even enjoyed a long walk through the residential area (one of my favorite things to do in towns). We love going to the many WWII sites - my Dad landed at Omaha. We've done it on our own many times, but last time we took a one day tour and learned even more. The next day, we went back to places we didn't have enough time in on the tour and saw them again. There is so much to see. The WWII museum in Bayeux is the best one, imo. And the one that's now at the American cemetery is very good. We really like staying at Hotel D'Argouges in Bayeux. It's a wonderful hotel with a great owner and staff. It's like a manor house with a beautiful garden.
Of this entire area we liked Honfleur the very least. Do visit the WWII sites. Most people feel a tour is a good idea. Be at the American Cemetery at sunset when they lower the flag - you'll never forget it. MSM should be included but late in the day is best. We were staying about three miles away and one evening we returned after dinner to see the lights from the causeway. That was the best part, plus it was free and without the crowds.
Wanted to add that there is more to staying in Normandy, and Bayeux specifically, than seeing all there is in town and the WWII sites. We spent a day just driving around on the 2 lane roads (which I love) and finding lots to see and do. We drove through small, charming towns, stopping at a very old church with a small cemetery - fascinating to read dates & info on the headstones, stopped for countless photo ops, happened onto a several hundred yrs old farm that was no longer a working farm which people could tour - it was fascinating, like a French version of All Creatures Great and Small. We also went to a chateau late at night which had 1600's costumed dancers in the courtyard for an hour - then, a candlelit tour of the interior of the chateau, it was very memorable. And another day, we went to Chateau de Balleroy which was a lovely small chateau - bought by Malcolm Forbes where he and Elizabeth Taylor lived for a time. So, there is lots to see and do in the area if you have the time.
We were in Normandy a year and a half ago and did just what you are proposing. We spent three nights in Bayeux and one in Honfleur. It was definitely not too much. In fact, I would have liked another night in Bayeux. We arrived in Bayeux after staying in Dinan two nights. (Loved Dinan.) We stopped in Mont St. Michel on the way. We got there early enough to avoid most, but not all of the crowds. I liked it, but was a bit disappointed in it. We visited the Bayeux Tapestry that same day -- don't miss it. The next two days we did tours of the battlefields (Band of Brothers and American Highlights.) They were fantastic. Then we had one day to tour on our own and hit the sights we missed on the tours. Bayeux is a very convenient base for the WWII sites. We arrived in Honfleur in the early evening of day four and really only had time to walk around the harbour, have dinner and then walk around at night. We also took a walk in the morning. It is a magical place. There are so many WWII sights, you can easily fill three or four days. Even without WWII history, I would enjoy Normandy. Great food, great people, pretty countryside. However long you stay, I hope you have a great trip.
I stayed 4 nights in Bayeux and loved it. Take a Battlebus tour, they are great. I stayed one night in MSM and loved that too but it was VERY busy until dinner time which it cleared out and was pleasant. I think it is best to spend the night and wake up early to see the abbey. I also stayed one night in Honfleur which was nice but really crowded too. I was there in the Spring a few years ago. I would do the 4 nights in Bayeux and one night in MSM. Arromanches looked nice we visited it on our way to Honfleur. I stayed in Bayeux due to our tour started and ended there. I can't say enough good things about Battlebus tours. Have a great trip.
We stayed in Bayeux for 4 nights, spent 3 days with tours, and wished for more. We chose Bayeux based on the advice of the great travelers who post here. Be certain to see the Tapestry and Cathedral as well. I teach history, too, and my father was a WWII veteran. Still, taking tours with guides whose stories and knowledge of the whole area is just priceless. We used Battlebus, but they are no longer in business. The guides, however, are now doing their own tours. Both of these guides were with Battlebus. Their friendships with veterans make their stories even more wonderful. Fabulous. No matter where you decide to stay, you will have a wonderful trip. http://www.ddayhistorian.com/
http://www.daleboothnormandytours.com/
We stayed at www.bandbnormandie.com, a delightful family farm about 12 miles from Bayeux, near Villers-Bocage. We did a Battlebus tour then returned on our own for another full day to spend more time at places we barely touched on the tour. We dined at local eateries in small towns in and around Villers-Bocage as well as Bayeux. We arose early and drove 90 minutes to MSM and beat the hordes of tour buses, then drove around the bay to Cancale for a wonderful seafood lunch on the waterfront. I am a WWII buff as well and enjoyed it immensely. We also drove along the backroads, stopping to buy Calvados, cheeses, and picnic supplies from countryside shops and farms. We stayed in a Bayeux hotel the first and last nights then returned our rental car at Caen and trained into Paris. You can visit many delightful towns by staying in or near Bayeux. Don't forget to view the 1066 Tapestry.
Thanks for all the replies! We decided to stay 1 night in Honfleur and 3 nights in Bayeux. All of your comments make me even more excited to visit Normandy!