We are planning on driving from Carcassonne to Villefranche-sur-mer in May. I thought I would follow Rick's book for a scenic drive along the Middle and High Corniche. However, his directions seem to start from within the city of Nice. We're trying to avoid city driving if possible. Does anyone know if there is a way to hook up with the Middle Corniche without driving through Nice? Or, any suggestions for the easiest route through Nice? Thanks!
Posted by
Pearland, TX, USA
852 posts
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichelin/int/tpl/hme/MaHomePage.htm
Barbara, the above web site works well even for travelers afoot. Perhaps you can work out the Corniche route you want on it, too. bon chance ! P
Posted by
OP
Seattle, WA
151 posts
Thank you both very much. I tried viaMichelin and voila! - it routed us around Nice and then dropped us down to Eze-le-village. Perfect. Now if I could just become fluent in French that easily!
Posted by
US Pacific Northwest
10344 posts
Barbara: When you're in Eze-le-Village, for one of those unforgettable European moments, a spectacular "terasse panoramique with glass of wine" experiences, see if you can find the Chateau Eza. This is a luxury lodging built on the Eze cliff, used to be the winter getaway of one of the Scandinavian royal families. It's a top of the line French boutique lodging property. Walk into the lobby like you belong there and ask the maître d' to seat you on the "public part" of the outside terrace. He may tell you it is only for guests--but if you're reasonably well dressed and can ask in French--he'll probably show you to a small terrace with an absolutely jaw-dropping view. A glass of wine is pricey but it will be one of the better investments you'll make on your trip. Rumor has it that if you get up and look over the railing at the truly for guests only lower terrace, you just might see somebody famous.
Posted by
OP
Seattle, WA
151 posts
Wow! Thanks Kent.
Posted by
US Pacific Northwest
10344 posts
Barbara: Eze is small and from where you will probably be parking just head toward the cliff, towards the southwest portion of the cliff I think it is, and you should find the Chateau Eza. If you see signs saying Chateau, that's it. Do not open up in English with the maitre d', have your opening question to him in French figured out in advance and more or less memorized. One quick sentence using the polite form of "Would we be able to have a glass of wine on the public terrace?" may do it for you ("Bonjour monsieur, est-ce-que nous voudrions...", my French isn't that good, I don't know exactly how the sentence should end) And don't be wearing shorts, t-shirts, or jogging shoes for this little interlude. No guarantees, but it worked for me and my wife last September. You will get one of the best views you will ever see looking down from the cliff 1500 feet at that stretch of the Cote d'Azur. If you want a preview of what the view looks like, watch "To Catch A Thief" with Cary Grant and Grace Kelley (who became Princess Grace not that long after the film was made), some of the scenes shot from Cary's apartment were filmed in Eze looking down at the coast. And you can also get an idea from the film of what the driving will be like on that section of the Corniche roads. And of course Princess Grace was killed when her car went off the Corniche, or a road leading down from the Corniche, just a couple of hills over towards Monaco from Eze. When you're on those roads, it's easy to see how it could happen. Not trying to frighten you: suggest not driving at night on the Middle or Upper Corniche, and drive heads up at all times and watch for aggressive fast drivers in expensive sports cars.