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My best and worst of Paris

I was in Paris a few weeks ago and I thought I post my best and worst.

My Best of Paris in no particular order:

1 - Sainte-Chappelle - breathtaking, even if my corkscrew was confiscated by security.

2 - the food

3 - the cathedral at Chartres - easily the highlight of my entire trip.

4 - the food (again)

5 - the people - I was very surprised to find that people were genuinely friendly, contrary to the stereotype. Maybe it helps that I at least tried to speak French.

6 - did I mention the food?

7 - the musee d'Orsay - I took the Rick Steves walkthrough and ended up going back twice. Crowded, but excellent.

And the Worst of Paris, also in no particular order:

1 - the Metro. Maybe it's because we were coming from London, but the Metro was just awful - crowded, dirty, slow, uncomfortable, and difficult to navigate.

2 - Versailles - a real let-down. the gardens were great, but the chateau was shoulder-to-shoulder and much of it was closed.

3 - Lines. I'll never understand this. There is the usual system of barriers, but every time, without fail, fifteen feet before you reach the final destination for the line, the barriers end - so you have a long orderly line, ending in a huge clump of people all trying to push their way in. I mean, why have lines at all? I just don't get it.

4 - the signs. I have a photo of CDG airport in which six(!) signs all point to the same thing... in six different directions, from a single vantage point. I wish I were kidding. Also CGD airport itself was a nightmare. I will never, ever, ever, fly out of CDG ever again. Ever.

6 - the gypsies and the tourist scams. In a single day I had the Friendship Bracelet guys and the Gold Ring ladies (twice) try to rip me off.

Still, the good far out weighs the bad. I would gladly go back in a heartbeat - today if I could.

and did I mention the food?

Posted by
1170 posts

Nathan, thank you for posting this. Glad you had a good time overall.

I now have a question about Versailles. Why was much of it closed off? If that's the case, we may skip Versailles this time.

And I am disappointed to read about CDG airport because we're going through there :-(

Where was the friendship bracelet incident?

Posted by
21 posts

Versailles was apparently under construction - probably just getting ready for the high season. The front was mostly covered with canvas tarps and scaffolds. Very little of the interior was accessible.

the chateau was very crowded, but it would be worth the day trip just for the gardens (which were spectacular). This was about a month ago, so hopefully the chateau will be open. I didn't see anything about construction on the web page before the trip, but maybe it's been updated.

If you have the chance, Chartres is a short train ride from Versailles - we did both in one day.

the friendship bracelet guys were near Sacre Coeur. I just gave them my best "don't mess with me, Gaston" look and firmly told them No.

As for CDG - if at all possible, verify which terminal you need before you arrive. Every information desk gave us different information and we ended up taking the tram between terminals 1 and 2 no fewer than 8 times. These were the actual airport informations desks, with the big "i" on them. We arrived hours early and still nearly missed our flight.

Posted by
251 posts

Don't give up on Cdg yet. 2 years ago I would have written the same words you did but double up on the swear words. Even flying into to CDG in Feb. but flying out! Wow, there are some changes going on, you can see construction everywhere. The terminal we flew out of was found easily from our hotel in the city, the security was friendly, gate easy to find, and great view and so so comfortable!

Metro: awful, crowded, dirty, slow, uncomfortable....ahhh yes isn't the metro great!. It is why I love Paris. The day you get it figured out is the day you stop being a tourist. Ha Ha.

You were disapointed in the lines? Come on what you are discribing is THE classic French stereotype. So much that I have often heard things described as "a french line"

Finally, why were you suprised to find people to be friendly and helpful? I think the stereotype of the snobby Parisian went out with Franc.

Mostly teasing here.

Posted by
290 posts

I was there for the week of New Year Jan 2007 & have to agree about the food and the friendly folks! But you forgot to mention the wine. Even the reasonably priced carafe of house wine is much better than the overpriced wines over here. My husband is still raving about it.
Also Versailles was a disappointment to me as well. It was too plain. But I think its because I went to Schoenbrunn (modeled after Versailles) in Vienna before seeing it so I have a jaded view.
No problems at all with gypsies. Lines weren't bad (with the exception of Eiffel Tower and Versailles) because we all had museum passes.
Paris Metro was a breeze to navigate, no too much different from London. But some lines were dirty but only crowded at the usual "rush" times.

I travel to Europe every 10 months or so & CDG is not my favorite european airport, but not the worst. That prize spot would go to Frankfurt and then to London's new T5. But then USA has some baddies too. Chicago for connections to name one.

Posted by
57 posts

Another plus vote the Metro. Took my kids and every day they would check the maps, route where we were going and how to get back. We got everywhere fast on the Metro and found it no dirtier than NyC. It is old after all The experience was great for my grand daughter who confidently went off to college in SF ready to tackle any transportation system.

Another best for us is walking in the Marais. Quaint and old Paris

For me one of the worst is the Pompidou. Badly signed and sorry, just ugly outside.

Posted by
213 posts

Thanks Nathan for the Post! I happened to be on the Versailles website yesterday and didn't see anything at the main chataeu listed as closed either. The Trianon is. We're going in a few weeks...I'm also wondering.

Posted by
2349 posts

Wow-you rode the tram at CDG 8 times? Are they trying to compete w/ EuroDisney-unlimited rides? Wheee-no hands!

Sounds like we were in both London & Paris about the same time. I also found the Metro more difficult/less clean than the Underground. I asked for help from an employee in the Metro, and received the purest Gallic "eegnorant Americain peegs" look from her. Since everyone else was nice and helpful, it just made for a funny experience. Our mistake, of course, the window said "Informtion", not "Information and Assistance". We missed Saint Chappelle, but we were in Notre Dame while an organ concert was going on-fantastic. I'm glad we decided to skip Versailles.

Posted by
21 posts

Trotro - I wouldn't say disappointed with the lines - just baffled. I rather expected there to be no lines at all, but instead I found the pretense of lines with only the illusion of organization. I still get a chuckle out of that.

As for the Metro, you can keep it. Paris is a wonderful city for walking and that's mostly what I did. I'd leave the hotel in the morning, walk all day to various sights, then take a taxi back in the evening.

As for the friendly Parisians, I didn't really expect rudeness so much as indifference. Either way I was pleasantly surprised.

Karen - I've heard it said that in Paris "le client est roi" (The customer is king). It sounds silly until you remember what the French occasionally do to their kings. In my case it applied mostly to the staff at information desks. Still, we made it back, and I got a great story to tell out of it.

I'd like to try Versailles again, someday. Hopefully it will be more accessible.

Posted by
922 posts

Sorry you didn't find anything good to eat. ;-)

Any specific recommendations re the food?

Posted by
320 posts

Nathan:

Couldn't agree more about Versailles. First went there on a college tour in 1981 - the signs told us that the admission price was higher because of the fantastic renovations taking place. Couldn't see many parts of the palace because of this work. Went again on my honeymoon in 1993 - higher prices, virtually no renovations BUT more gift shops and things to rent or buy - with signs telling us of all the great work taking place. Against my better judgment took the kids in 2004 - even more run down than in 1993 - even more gift shops - even higher prices - I am sure that some renovations have taken place - but in my three visits I sure cannot tell you what they are/were. The crowds were so thick, I openly wondered how a person could feel claustrophobic while in one of the largest homes in the world! We had tons more fun and enjoyment the next day at Chantilly.

Posted by
818 posts

I loved the Metro - it was so efficient and clean and it made sense and was very easy to navigate.

CDG - again - WOW, great airport. I found it easy to navaigate - we de-planed, found an ATM, figured out how to buy RER tix from the kiosk and were in Paris in no time. I am used to NY subways and airports and Paris was by far more efficient!

We were there in February so there were no lines and toursit scams didn't bother me. I loved everything about Paris. Definitely did not see enough but I loved being there "off season", we stayed on Rue Cler and can't say we saw many tourists around at all. People were as nice as can be.

Posted by
11507 posts

Glad you enjoyed your trip( over all ) .

I prefer walking and taking the bus to the Metro as I don't really like being underground. I'll take it, but not if I have other options and or time to walk.

Versailles is wonderful . I love it. I have been at least 5 or 6 times ( over a span of at least 30 years) and I will be sure to go again this July. The grounds are beautiful, and I love the Grand Trianon( the smaller gardens behind the GT are gorgeous, and the views of the Canals and Chateau incredible.
Yes it is crowded, but there is nothing one can do about that.

I do second another posters suggestion of seeing Chantilly for those who hate crowds.

Posted by
1170 posts

Are there some days that are more crowded than others?

Must say that if there is a bunch of renovations going on, I will skip it again. We had tried two years ago but didn't have enough time that day and decided to do something else.

I don't want to waste time and money to find scaffolding and other annoyances instead of all the beauty I've read about :-(

Posted by
13 posts

I visited Versailles in December of '06 and the only thing that was under construction was the Hall of Mirrors (which is now complete I believe)! I'm going to be going there again with friends in early May as apart of our stop in Paris. I may just skip the interior tour and focus on the gardens and the Petite Trianon.

I may have to pop in at Saint Chapelle as well, I've only been to Notre Dame, this sounds lovely too!

Posted by
632 posts

Much as I love the London Underground

http://www.emmaclarke.com/fun/mind-the-gap/spoof-london-underground-announcements

I have to go with Trotro here...I really don't feel like I've arrived in Paris until I get on the Metro...my love affair with Paris goes back a long way (mid 60's) and the metro was always a part of that experience....as to the rest of the list...definitely put people high on that list...Paris is ultimately an experience of the people you meet and interact with...everything else is just sightseeing

Posted by
632 posts

I forgot to add my wife's comments upon seeing Versailles for the first time. "Now I understand the French revolution."